The Basic Urban Wardrobe

Time was when a well-dressed gentleman could build his wardrobe as he did his wine cellar, content in the knowledge that his selections would remain stylishly imperishable for years to come. Closets often overflowed with suits and sports jackets and bureaus bulged with shirts and other gear; all were fashionably correct--and all began to look tiresomely familiar, and alike, as men's clothing manufacturers continued to cater to conservative tastes and to produce clichéed variations of popular apparel themes with predictable regularity.

Now, as nearly everyone knows, those days of dull, regimented men's fashions are dead and the male has become a peacock who digs the fact that his masculine garb helps attract the opposite sex. This has brought about a change in the urban man's buying habits. Instead of accumulating a vast amount of shirts, suits, outercoats and other wearables, today he prefers to maintain a smaller, more eclectic basic wardrobe that reflects an awareness of just how quickly contemporary fashions can become dated as styles shift from season to season. This basic wardrobe serves as a comfortable nucleus that allows individuals the pleasure of personal fashion expression and identity without becoming overburdened with so many apparel items that it becomes difficult to swing with the times.

To illustrate our point, let's make the following improbable assumption: You've no wardrobe at all--no shirts, socks, shoes, suits, nothing--and you must stock your wardrobe literally from zero on up. (You may want to borrow some clothes before visiting the stores.) But where do you go from here? What do you put your money on in order to build a basic wardrobe? Here's Playboy's answer:

Let's begin with suits, since they're probably (text concluded on page 198)Basic Wardrobe(continued from page 100) the most important category of clothing in your closet. The cut, color and/or pattern directly affect both your business and social lives and give the informed observer immediate insight about how up you are on current trends. Although we've listed four suits in our chart (plus a shirt suit and a black dinner jacket and trousers), you'll want to arrive at your own optimal number, keeping in mind that versatility in proportion to your income is what you're after.

Most suits today reflect some degree of European influence. Jacket lines are slimmer and longer, with higher arm-holes and, occasionally, roped shoulders (a squared-off shoulder that rises slightly where the sleeve meets the shoulder padding), wider lapels and a deep center vent. Although single-breasteds are more comfortable to wear than double-breasteds, you'll want both. The six-button double-breasted three-to-button is being given tough competition by styles with one- or two-to-button that show more of your shirt and tie.

In our basic-wardrobe chart, you'll notice we've listed two dark suits--one for business and a more dashing model for dinner, theater and after. In addition, a light-colored suit in, perhaps, twill or linen and another in tweed or plaid will come in handy--either for business or to wear on casual weekends. Your occupation will determine what cuts and patterns to choose, just as your locale will dictate the weight of fabric you want.

Offering a refreshing change of pace are the belted business suits that come with matching self-belt or a contrasting one that's color coordinated to the material. Both are usually designer-created fashions (by this we mean a style from the workshop of an individual designer, such as Bill Blass or Pierre Cardin) and both are more often found in men's boutiques than in the neighborhood haberdashery. Before buying, however, we recommend that you try on other avant suit styles--rich wide-wale corduroys, velvets in strong and subdued colors and, possibly, a belted shirt suit that's fine for a cocktail party. And when an invitation arrives that specifies black tie, you'll want to show up attired in black dinner jacket and formal trousers, the cut of the coat being influenced by your own height and weight and style preferences, for the days of identical penguin-look formal-wear are stone-cold dead.

Turning to sports jackets, the international favorite remains the navy-blue blazer, which came into existence when the captain of H.M.S. Blazer ordered his crew to spruce up their appearance by wearing blue jackets with metal buttons. One double-breasted navy model is all you'll really need. Then concentrate on collecting other equally flattering jackets that draw attention to your fashion independence--say, a lightweight suede bush jacket, a single-breasted velvet style or a patterned tweed or plaid shaped coat with wider lapels and an ample amount of flare from the waist.

Under the category of jackets, we also include sweaters--an item of apparel that's currently in a state of transition. Although there are plenty of V-necks, crew-necks, turtlenecks and cardigans on the market in both patterned and solid shades, the fashion-conscious buyer is acquiring both European-inspired skinny sweaters that are shorter and often ribbed, so that they hug the body, and longer belted cardigans and turtlenecks in assorted colors, which may take the place of jackets.

A portion of your basic slacks wardrobe, of course, should be coordinated to your jacket selections. Two solid shades--one gray and the other brown or black--are a good-looking beginning. Then add a patterned wool and Dacron blend that keeps its press and a minimum of three pairs of casual slacks in such interesting materials as polished leather, suede, wide-wale corduroy and velvet. Wide straight-cut or flared styles either cuffless or with two-inch cuffs are both correct.

What kind of shoes you slip into, lace up or buckle, depends on how conservative or daring your suit, sports-jacket and slacks wardrobes are. Regardless of your clothing preferences, be sure to fill your shoe rack, so that you can change your footwear often--thus giving each pair a chance to rest a day or two before being worn again. Business requires that most guys own no less than four pairs of black and brown shoes in broad-toed oxfords and slip-ons. After working hours, casual brighter-colored suedes and patents in both solids and two-tones (the latter includes such opposites as red and green) are being combined with slacks in bold plaids and solids. You'll also want one pair of demiboots to wear with a tweed or corduroy suit and other more informal outfits.

So that you'll be as well shirted as you are shod, your collection of dress shirts should be fairly extensive (we recommend at least a dozen)--and it will give greater fashion versatility to your more limited suit and sports-jacket wardrobes we're advocating. Collar styles are one of the most important considerations--longer points, medium spreads and higher neckbands are all currently correct. French cuffs should be held together with a pair of elegant links. However, also check out models with double buttons to be worn as an interesting alternative. Colored shirts in bold solids, varying stripe widths and fancy prints, as we all know, have eclipsed whites. Then fill the remaining space in your bureau drawer with whatever leather, knit and woolen looks you choose--along with a couple of formal shirts.

While shopping for your dress shirts, buy an ample supply of four-to-five-inch-wide ties, as this allows you to coordinate both color and pattern. We think six solids and eighteen patterns are a reasonable number--again for greater versatility. Add to these a half-dozen floppy bow ties, making sure one is a black dinner-jacket butterfly style, and six silk neck and pocket squares, both solid and patterned.

In our chart, we've listed outerwear requirements as two topcoats (dark camel's hair and cavalry twill); one dark cashmere overcoat, depending on climate; two raincoats (one double- and one single-breasted); one informal coat in tweed or suede; and two jackets (fitted leather or fur-lined). All your more formal outerwear and your rain-gear should fit close to the body and feature higher armholes, just as your suits do, thus giving the garments a lean, tailored look, which we heartily recommend. Other details to watch for include a deep center vent and a wide collar. We leave casual coats and jackets to your own choosing, as the pickings are plentiful.

When selecting sleepwear, you'll want about three sets (one should be a one-piece jump suit to be worn for late-evening lounging without a robe). Of course, there will be times when you will need a robe, and we think three should serve you in good stead: a cotton or synthetic-blend all-purpose kimono, a short terrycloth wrap-around for the bath and a full-length belted cashmere dressing gown that marks you as a gentleman of taste and means.

Lastly, you'll want 12 pairs of over-the-calf hose, 12 sets of underwear, four pairs of gloves (heavy pigskin gauntlets, calf for daytime dress, string-back leather for driving and sport, and suede dress), three belts (two wide and one narrow), two mufflers and hats, 24 pocket handkerchiefs, jewelry and whatever active sportswear fills your personal athletic predilections.

These basic fashion requirements for an urban male should not be interpreted as bare minimum. Your own income and life style, as we said, are the factors that determine just how extensive your wardrobe will be. And, obviously, we can't cover all the items of masculine apparel in men's stores and boutiques--nor have we attempted to. But we do think that what's in a man's wardrobe should be up to date and this calls for a constant weeding out of the old to make room for the new. Next month's Spring and Summer Fashion Forecast will provide additional insight on lighter-weight gear. We suggest you tune in to it for our prognostications on what's soon to be in store--and in style--during the warm months ahead.