Rum Antics

Samuel Johnson, who thought that brandy was the drink for heroes, would have had some second thoughts if he'd been able to taste any of the present 151-proof rums flowing from so many of the old distilleries in the tropics. Heroes aside, rum in modern times is the special drink for youth, for those who--no matter what their chronological age--are in the flush of life and, above all, for hosts who enjoy creating and serving new cups, coolers and punches. Rum's appeal is twofold. It not only rivals vodka for its mixability but in its unmixed form covers a brilliant spectrum ranging in proof from 80 to 151 and displaying a spectacular assortment of flavors, aromas, colors and pungencies. What better moment could there be for exploring its varieties than at the beginning of summer, when rum takes on its most refreshing roles in tall, colorfully adorned glasses, in frosty (continued on page 130)Rum Antics(continued from page 113) punch bowls or in saucer champagne glasses as it contributes a cooling touch to pool- or surf-side get-togethers?

Rums have too often been pigeonholed as Spanish, English or French. But the ones still being made in New England are palpably different from those made in Barbados, which, in turn, are quite different from those distilled in Jamaica; and all three are from English-speaking areas. Nor is color always the most reliable clue to a rum's personality. All rums as they come from the still are water-white. Many are later mixed with caramel coloring--not too heinous a crime, because the coloring matter itself is made from sugar; others acquire their brown complexion from the oak barrels in which they're aged. The most realistic way to bring the total rum picture into focus is to identify them by flavor strength, no matter from what area they come. From this viewpoint, they divide themselves into the clean-tasting dry aguardientes typified by the Puerto Rican rums, the sturdy brown middle-strength sipping rums and the pungent, full-bodied rummiest rums of all--the Jamaica.

By far the majority of the rums now flowing onto the U. S. mainland are the gossamer-light-tasting varieties from Puerto Rico. These are the ones that 15 years ago were in the vanguard of the world-wide movement toward light dry potables, a tide that now draws into its whirl anything from flinty dry wines to genial Scotch whiskies. Rums of the same gentle pedigree come from the Virgin Islands and, more recently, from Hawaii. Two decades ago, light Cuban rum was the Tiffany of the rum shelves. But Castro or no Castro, it was bound to be replaced. In Puerto Rico, the cane always flourished beautifully, its cool mountain waters were perfect for rum making and, most importantly, rum from the common-wealth entered the States duty free and dollars cheaper than the Cuban rums. Today, the mellow, easy-going Puerto Rican rums have equaled if not surpassed their Cuban predecessors in the company of fine spirits. Like vodkas, Puerto Rican rums are distilled at stunningly high proofs, usually around 180 (vodka is distilled at 190 or higher; pure alcohol is 200), so that many of the brash flavor congenerics are literally cooked out. Like vodkas, rums are later cut with water to bottle strength. But there the comparison must end. For rum is made for the most part from sugar-cane molasses after the crystallized sugar has been removed, and the flavor of the sugar cane is the prism through which its flavor is reflected, no matter how light, dark, young or old it may be. Those who casually assume that all light rums are as alike as so many bottles of milk need only pour several different light rums into tulip-shaped glasses. Each one will reveal its own special nuances of flavor and fragrance.

Puerto Rican rums vary in age from the three-to-four-year-old white-label or silver-label rums to the gold-label, usually a year or two older and sometimes a trifle sweet, to the really mature older rums typified by the Bacardi añejo or the Don Q Eldorado. Age per se doesn't mean that a rum will automatically appeal to one's palate. Your own judgment--no matter what the experts say--is the only valid guide for any grading. From a practical standpoint, when you're mixing an elaborately complex cooler, the differences between one light-flavored rum and another may simply disappear in the drink's icy vortex. But when you're sipping a rum on the rocks or a rum and soda at the end of a long cool swim or after several hours of surfboarding, it's a wonderful comfort to reach for a bottle of rum whose familiar fragrance and flavor settle upon you like a cool sundown.

Rums from the Virgin Islands are generally a trifle heavier than the Puerto Rican varieties but, like them, enter the mainland without import duty and are comparatively low in price. The latest to join the light dry fraternity is the Hawaiian Leilani. It's odd that sugar-laden Hawaii didn't send rums to the mainland until recently, in view of the fact that so many of the tropical rum drinks that have now become almost standard fare originated in restaurants whose cuisine is Polynesian. But the extremely smooth rum now arriving from Hawaii, tinted only by the wood in which it is aged, is obviously blended with great finesse. As an all-purpose mixing rum, it goes particularly well with pre-brunch drinks, such as rum with chilled fresh orange juice or with fresh orange juice mixed with frozen pineapple juice.

Island hopping from the light-flavored rums to the medium-flavored specimens, one is reminded that in Colonial times, rums were known as Barbados waters or comforting waters, and no better description could be found for the great old sipping rums from Barbados, Haiti, Martinique and Trinidad. Many of them rise in proof into the 90s. Although each distillery produces its own special spirits, most of the rums in this class are noted for their balance--that is, the ratio of strength, flavor and aroma that results in an almost perfect suspension. The middle rums come through beautifully in rum on the rocks, rum old fashioneds or rum mists--rum poured over very finely crushed ice, with a twist of lemon peel. Any one of them is great mixed in iced coffee or floated atop a mint julep. Rums such as Lightbourn's from Barbados, Barbancourt from Haiti or St. James from Martinique (there's also Barrilito from Puerto Rico) are always fine enough to offer at room temperature for toasting or as after-dinner drinks in brandy snifters.

Doughtiest and heaviest-flavored of all are the Jamaica rums, although their range of flavors is wide enough to satisfy a broad band of tastes. These are the ones that spinners of nautical yarns used to describe as suitable for splicing the main brace. To students of modern rums, it should be explained that the main brace was an eight-inch-thick rope used on old British men-of-war. When it parted as the result of cannon fire or storm, only the burliest hands on board could be depended upon to mend it during battle or hurricane. A successful splicing job was always rewarded with a bumper of Jamaica rum. Until a few years ago, Jamaica rums were fermented by the natural yeast of the air in vats in which the dunder, or residue, from a previous fermentation played an important part and were then sent through old-fashioned pot stills. Trickling out of the stills at low proofs, many of them were eye-poppingly pungent. The whole rum ritual in Jamaica is now radically changed. Natural yeast in many cases has been replaced by cultivated yeast of the most aristocratic paternity. The old pot stills are partially used, together with modern column stills. Though the rums are heavy-bodied, the edges of flavor have been tamed, the pungency softened. The wide variety of Jamaica rums now extends from clear-white 80-proof rums to those aged up to 20 years. All are unsurpassed for planter's punch, one of the oldest and most delightful tropical coolers. In mixed drinks, a light Puerto Rican rum often will be combined with a heavier Jamaican variety, so that no matter how elaborate your drink may be, the flavor of rum will shine through in a steady beam. Many Jamaica rums are sent uncut to England to be aged in underground warehouses, where the even temperature of the cool damp air is considered perfect for maturing their flavor. Some of them are brought back across the Atlantic to the States. A London dock rum such as Hudson's Bay Jamaica is a perfect example of the kind of old-fashioned rum many men still prefer in their rum collins at the end of a torrid day. Among the new spirits from Jamaica is Rumona, a liqueur with a rich rum base, a luscious tot to add to Blue Mountain Jamaican coffee or to (continued on page 202)Rum Antics(continued from page 130) spoon over ice cream or a tall coffee parfait.

Closely rivaling Jamaica rum in flavor is New England rum, one of the few that are distilled at a flavor-hoarding 160 proof and then, after aging, bottled unblended, or straight. Many of its faithful followers would have no other rum for hot or cold rum toddies. Now and then in a liquor store, you'll see a bottle of Indonesian arrack. If you've visited Java, you may have been exposed to this extremely aromatic straw-colored rum made from sugar abetted with rice and sometimes palm juice. It's a liquid spine chiller not recommended for drawing rooms.

Every rum roundup must conclude with the 151-proofs. Originally shipped from British Guiana to thaw out frontiersmen in the Canadian arctic, they're now distributed in more felicitous climes--wherever, in fact, the pleasures of rum are appreciated. Most of the major rum producers are now offering a 151-proof rum. But even with their extreme concentration of alcohol and flavor, the dry 151s from Puerto Rico will differ noticeably from the heavy Demerara 151-proofs. In mixed drinks, a half-ounce float of 151-proof rum is the perfect eye opener for anyone whose rum sense may have become somewhat jaded by the summer heat. In addition to its usefulness to the barkeeping host, any 151-proof rum is a perfect agent for flambéing anything from kidneys to crepes.

Of course, one swallow of rum won't make a summer, but several swallows of any of the potables that follow will make the summer a good deal more pleasant.

[recipe_title]Tamarind Cooler[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. chilled tamarind nectar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. chilled mango nectar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. chilled fresh orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. chilled pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. 151-proof rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 large sprigs mint[/drinkRecipe]

Nectars such as tamarind, mango, guava and guanábana are available in specialty food shops or in shops featuring Puerto Rican specialties.

Pour all ingredients except lemon slice and mint into 14-oz. tall glass with 4 to 5 ice cubes. Stir well; add lemon slice and mint.

[recipe_title]Rum Cassis[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. dry white wine or dry vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons crème de cassis[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled club soda[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice lime[/drinkRecipe]

Pour rum, wine and crème de cassis over rocks in 8-oz. tall glass or old fashioned glass. Add a splash of soda; stir; add lime slice.

[recipe_title]Strawberry Frozen Daiquiri[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 cup quick-thaw frozen strawberries in syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon maraschino liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 cup finely cracked ice[/drinkRecipe]

This is a sweet after-dinner cocktail that may be offered in place of dessert.

Put all ingredients in blender. Blend at high speed for 15 second. Pour into prechilled deep saucer champagne glass or into old fashioned glass.

[recipe_title]Bourbon Rumbo[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. medium-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. sweet vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled club soda[/drinkRecipe]

1 slice cocktail orange in syrup, drained

Pour sugar, bitters and a small splash of soda into old fashioned glass. Stir until sugar dissolves. Add bourbon, rum, vermouth and several ice cubes; stir. Add another splash of soda, if desired, and orange slice.

[recipe_title]Guanábana Cooler[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. chilled guanábana nectar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. chilled fresh orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled club soda[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice small orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice lime[/drinkRecipe]

Pour rum, guanábana nectar and orange juice into 14-oz. tall glass. Fill glass with ice cubes to within 1 in. of rim. Add a splash of soda; stir. Float orange slice and lime slice on drink.

[recipe_title]Cherry Rum Cola[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 ozs. medium-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. cherry heering[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled cola[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice lemon[/drinkRecipe]

Put 3 or 4 large ice cubes into tall collins glass. Add rum, cherry heering and lemon juice. Fill glass almost to rim with cola; stir; add lemon slice.

[recipe_title]Planter's Punch with Falernum[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. dark Jamaica rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash Angostura bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Falernum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled club soda[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Maraschino cherry[/drinkRecipe]

Pour rum, bitters, Falernum, sugar and lime juice into cocktail shaker with 8 to 10 ice cubes. Shake dervishly, at least 60 times. Pour, unstranied, into 14-oz. tall glass. Add a splash of soda; stir; add orange slice and maraschino cherry.

[recipe_title]Bitter Planter's Punch[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. heavy-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chilled bitter lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 slice lemon[/drinkRecipe]

Pour rum, sugar, grenadine and lemon juice over 8 to 10 ice cubes in cocktail shaker. Shake extremely well. Pour, unstranied, into 14-oz. tall glass. Fill glass with bitter lemon; stir. Float lemon slice on drink.

[recipe_title]Rum Cup with Chablis[/recipe_title]

(Eight to ten punch cups)

[drinkRecipe]1 pint plus 4 ozs. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]10 ozs. Chablis or similar dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. fresh orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. orgeat[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. Falernum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 slices lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 large sprigs mint[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients except lime slices and mint into 2-quart pitcher. Add lime slices and mint; chill 1 to 2 hours. Fill pitcher almost to rim with ice cubes. Stir. Pour into punch cups or 6-oz. fruit-juice glasses.

[recipe_title]Polynesian Punch Bowl[/recipe_title]

(Approximately 24 punch cups)

[drinkRecipe]1 fifth light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. cream of coconut or coconut syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 quart plus 1 cup pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 cups fresh orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. sloe gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]5 ozs. white crème de menthe[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup fresh lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 thin slices very ripe fresh pineapple[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 thin slices orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint chilled club soda[/drinkRecipe]

Pour rum, cream of coconut, pineapple juice, orange juice, sloe gin, crème dementhe and lemon juice into punch bowl. Stir until all ingredients, particularly cream of coconut, are well blended. Add a large block of ice, pineapple slices and orange slices and place in refrigerator about 1 hour for flavors to ripen. Add soda and stir lightly just before serving. Ladle into punch cups or 6-oz. fruit-juice glasses.

[recipe_title]Guava Milk Punch[/recipe_title]

(Approximately 24 punch cups)

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 quarts milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]30 ozs. guava nectar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup light cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint plus 4 ozs. light-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. 151-proof rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. medium-bodied rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 1-in. pieces lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 1-in. pieces orange peel[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients except lemon and orange peels into punch bowl. Stir well to dissolve sugar. Add a large block of ice, lemon peel and orange peel. Place bowl in refrigerator about 1 hour for flavors to ripen. Ladle into punch cups or 6-oz. fruit-juice glasses. A delightful punch to serve the morning after, either before or with brunch; also pleasant on a lazy afternoon on deck.

Any of the preceding thirst quenchers will help you keep your cool in fine fashion as you turn the summer months into a delightful rum go.