A Fine Kettle of Fish

Steaming bowls of bouillabaisse, cioppino and other hearty fish-stew fare come into their own as the chill days of November take over. A fish-stew dinner is one of the best possible ways of introducing and blending guests in your digs. Bring on a tureen of sea fare and, in no time, men and women of all tastes will be sharing the succulent meat of lobster claws, comparing pompano with porgy and vying with one another in mopping up the luscious sea-scented gravy. At a fish-stew party, casual clothes take the place of black ties, steaming hand towels replace stiff linen napkins and table talk is all but silenced.

Before you set out to buy your fish and shellfish, you should know that unlike beef stew, for instance, in which beef is the only meat used, or even oyster or lobster stew, which features only a single star, a real fish stew is a colorful conglomeration of from four to a dozen or more oceanic species, all swimming in a broth containing anything from coconut milk to zest of orange. The second thing to remember is that the success of your stew depends upon the freshness of the ingredients. This, in turn, means that no two stews can ever be exactly alike, because each day's catch differs. Even fish of the same type from the same net may boast different flavors. A bouillabaisse in Paris or New York is necessarily a different--but equally fine--kettle of fish from one served in Marseilles; in some cases, it may even be better. But while the variety can be bewildering in its riches, there are archetypes of fish stews, such as the Italian cacciucco--including squid, with hot peppers and red wine--and from these models, variations without end can be evolved wherever your safe harbor may be.

Choosing the right fishmonger is often more important than selecting the fish itself. Some dealers will sell only fresh fish; that is, fish whose red gills, bright eyes and firm flesh are proof that their recent abode was the sea or river rather than a bed of ice or a freezer. As far as we're concerned, too much has been made of the advantages of combining the flesh of large and small fish, fat and lean fish. A sea bass may weigh two or four pounds, but for stew purposes, it's still sea bass, and you buy it for flavor, not for size. Haddock is a lean fish, halibut a fat one; yet if you combine the two for the sake of balance, you'll have two white, flaky, mild-flavored fish whose differences will be largely lost in the rich gravy of the stewpot. It's far better to combine fish whose flavors and textures create a rich contrast. Adding red snapper, say, to a stew containing shrimps and pompano makes a world of difference. Finally, the sine qua non of any illustrious fish stew is the mixing of shellfish with those that are free-swimming, not only for the special meat of the shellfish but also for their rich juices.

While it requires a modicum of patience in getting the stew ready, the actual cooking time is brief; often 20 minutes of boiling is enough. But a good gravy, even with the help of clam or mussel juice, doesn't reach fruition so quickly. To give the gravy body and richness, a court bouillon is often prepared in advance. For a fish stew, this is simply a stock made from water, vegetables, spices, fish bones and trimmings, simmered and then added to the pot before cooking time. It's a modest effort well worth the distinction it gives the stew. One should be generous in using seasonings. This doesn't mean that subtleties are thrown overboard and that cayenne pepper or ground fennel should be poured without restraint. But guests should be able to savor seasonings such as saffron and oregano without wondering whether the flavorings they detect were dropped into the pot by mistake. The broth, with its luxuriantly rich flavor, is so important, in fact, that it's often served in a separate dish and poured over fried or toasted bread.

With fish stews, menu planning is a breeze, since what you conjure up in the kettle--which should be of at least six-quart capacity--is, in effect, a seafood appetizer, soup and main course all in one. If you feel you should serve a salad, let it be one that is simple, such as Bibb lettuce and heart of palm with white-wine dressing--or Belgian endive and sliced baked beet with egg dressing. As for the wine, the dictum that fish always thirsts for white while meat takes red is never more obviously absurd than when you think of the flavor power of bouillabaisse or cioppino. White wines are commonly used in cooking fish stews, but when the end product is presented in all its glory it needs a red wine with muscle à la chianti classico or barolo or a sturdy California pinot noir. Or serve malt liquor or stout. An appropriate windup is an assortment of cheeses, a fruit bowl and double-strength French-roast coffee or espresso.

The fine kettles of fish below are all designed for six servings.

[recipe_title]Court Bouillon for Fish Stew[/recipe_title]

(About 6 cups)

[recipe]7 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large leek, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large carrot, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large piece celery, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]12 sprigs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]Fish trimmings, such as head, backbone, tail, etc.[/recipe]

Put all ingredients into pot. Bring to a boil; skim; simmer 30 minutes. Strain. The liquor of shellfish such as clams or mussels, steamed open in another pot, is usually added to court bouillon for fish stew. Bottled clam juice may be added to this recipe, if additional liquid is needed to cover fish in stew.

[recipe_title]Croutons for Fish Stew[/recipe_title]

Cut a narrow loaf of French bread into 1/2-in.-thick slices. Preheat oven at 300°. Place bread in single layer on shallow baking pan or cookie sheet. Bake 1 hour, turning once to brown on both sides. Bread may be rubbed with garlic and brushed lightly with olive oil or melted butter before baking. To fry croutons, heat olive oil to a depth of 1/4 in. in an electric skillet preheated at 370°. Fry bread until light brown, adding oil when necessary. Prepare about 6 slices per serving.

[recipe_title]Bouillabaisse Marseilles Style[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 1 1/4-lb. live Northern lobsters[/recipe]

[recipe]3 dozen hard clams (littleneck size)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. Spanish mackerel, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. eel, cleaned, skinned[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. red snapper, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1-lb. can tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup onions, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup shredded carrot[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons very finely minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon saffron[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground fennel[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf sage[/recipe]

[recipe]1 orange-rind strip 1/2 in. wide, 3 ins. long[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

Have fish dealer remove and crack lobster claws and cut lobster tails crosswise into 1-in. sections. Have lobster heads split and stomach sacs removed. Wash and scrub clams with brush to remove sand. Place clams in pot with 1 cup water. Cover with tight-fitting lid; cook about 5 minutes or until shells are open. Remove top shells of clams, leaving clams on half shell. Set clams aside. Strain clam broth through cheesecloth, if necessary, to remove sand. Add dam broth to court bouillon. Cut mackerel, eel and red snapper into 1-in. chunks. Sprinkle fish generously with salt and pepper. Drain tomatoes, saving juice; chop tomato meat coarsely. In (continued on page 202)Kettle of Fish(continued from page 126) large kettle, heat oil over low flame. Add onions, carrot, garlic, parsley, bay leaf, saffron, fennel, sage and orange rind. Sauté until onions are deep yellow. Add court bouillon, tomato juice, chopped tomatoes, wine and lobster. Boil 10 minutes. Place fish in pot and boil, covered, 10 minutes longer. Place clams in pot. Cook covered a few minutes longer, just to reheat clams. Arrange dams around sides of large serving platter or shallow serving casserole. Carefully lift fish and lobster with slotted spoon from kettle to platter, keeping pieces of fish intact, if possible. Taste gravy; correct seasoning if necessary. Pour enough hot gravy over fish in platter to moisten. Serve balance of gravy and croutons in separate dishes.

[recipe_title]Bouillabaisse with Potatoes[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 1 1/4-lb. live Northern lobsters[/recipe]

[recipe]4 dozen large mussels[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. sea bass, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. whiting, cleaned[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. bluefish, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1-lb. can tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup onions, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup leeks, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon saffron[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground allspice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]4 cups thinly sliced potatoes[/recipe]

Have fish dealer remove and crack lobster claws and cut lobster tails crosswise into 1-in. sections; have heads split and stomach sacs removed. Wash and scrub mussels well with brush to remove sand. Remove any leaves and beard. Discard any open mussels. Place mussels in pot with 1/2 cup wine. Cover with tight-fitting lid; cook about 10 minutes or until shells are wide open. Discard any that haven't opened after cooking. Remove top shells, leaving mussels on the half shell. Set mussels aside. Strain broth through cheesecloth, if necessary, to remove sand. Add to court bouillon. Cut sea bass, whiting and bluefish into 1-in. chunks and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Drain tomatoes, reserving juice; chop tomato meat coarsely. In (continued on page 202)Kettle of Fish(continued from page 126) large kettle, heat oil over low flame. Add onions, leeks, garlic, saffron, allspice and thyme. Sauté until onions are deep yellow. Add court bouillon, tomato juice, tomatoes, 1 cup wine, potatoes and lobsters. Boil 10 minutes. Place fish in kettle and boil, covered, 10 minutes longer. Place mussels in kettle and cook, covered, several minutes longer to reheat mussels. Arrange mussels around sides of large serving platter or shallow serving casserole. Carefully lift with slotted spoon fish, potatoes and lobster from kettle to platter, keeping pieces of fish intact, if possible. Taste gravy; correct seasoning if necessary. Pour enough hot gravy over fish in platter to moisten. Serve balance of gravy and croutons in separate dishes.

[recipe_title]Long Island Fish Stew[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 1 1/2-lb. live Northern lobsters[/recipe]

[recipe]4 dozen large mussels[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. Long Island bay scallops[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. striped bass, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. porgy, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. whole flounder, cut into fillets, with skin on[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1-lb. can tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup onions, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup green peppers, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dillweed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup fino sherry[/recipe]

Have fish dealer prepare lobsters as in preceding recipe. Wash and scrub mussels well with brush to remove sand. Remove any leaves and beard. Discard any open mussels. Place mussels in pot with 1/2 cup white wine. Cover with tight-fitting lid and cook about 10 minutes or until shells are wide open. Discard any that haven't opened after cooking. Remove top shells, leaving mussels on the half shell. Set mussels aside. Strain broth through cheesecloth, if necessary, to remove sand. Add mussel broth to the court bouillon. Cut striped bass, porgy and flounder into 1-in. chunks; sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Drain tomatoes, reserving juice; chop tomato meat coarsely. In large kettle, heat oil over low flame. Add onions, green peppers, garlic, paprika, thyme and dill-weed. Sauté until onions are deep yellow. Add court bouillon, tomatoes, tomato juice, 1 cup white wine, sherry and lobsters. Boil 10 minutes. Place scallops and fish in pot. Add more liquid (tomato juice or clam juice), if necessary, to cover fish. Boil, covered, 10 minutes longer. Place mussels in pot and cook, covered, a few minutes longer, until mussels are merely heated through. Arrange mussels around sides of large serving platter or shallow serving casserole. Carefully lift with slotted spoon fish, scallops and lobster from kettle to platter, keeping pieces of fish intact, if possible. Check gravy and pour enough over fish to moisten. Serve balance of gravy and croutons in separate dishes.

[recipe_title]Cioppino[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. deluxe crab lump[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. jumbo shrimps, 12-18 to pound[/recipe]

[recipe]3 dozen hard clams (littleneck size)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. sea bass, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. halibut steak, bone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]28-oz. can pear tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]6-oz. can tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely minced onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. finely minced fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup finely minced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely minced sweet red or green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon leaf thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon rosemary[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons very finely minced fresh parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups dry red wine[/recipe]

Peel and devein shrimps. Add shells to pot when making court bouillon. Wash and scrub clams with brush to remove sand. Place clams in pot with 1 cup water. Cover with tight-fitting lid and cook about 5 minutes or until shells are open. Remove top shells, leaving clams on the half shell. Set clams aside. Strain broth through cheesecloth, if necessary, to remove sand. Cut sea bass and halibut into 1-in. chunks and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Place tomatoes with juice in blender and blend until smooth. Mix tomatoes, tomato paste, clam broth and court bouillon. In large kettle, heat oil over low flame. Add onions, mushrooms, garlic, celery, sweet pepper, basil, thyme, rosemary and parsley. Sauté until onions are deep yellow. Add wine and cook until wine is reduced to approximately 1 cup. Add crab lump, shrimps, fish and tomato mixture. Boil 10 minutes. Place clams in kettle and reheat, covered, a few minutes, until heated through. Arrange clams around sides of large serving platter or shallow serving casserole. Use slotted spoon to lift fish, shrimps and crab onto platter, and pour on enough gravy to moisten. Serve balance of gravy in separate dishes with fried or oven-toasted croutons or with freshly sliced sourdough bread.

[recipe_title]Cacciucco[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 lbs. squid[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. shrimps, 24-30 to pound[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. haddock, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. porgy, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. scallops[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely minced onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dried "hot" red-pepper flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups dry red wine[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

Have fish dealer clean squid, discarding insides but saving heads and tentacles for court bouillon. Rub skin off squid and cut across body into circles 1/4 in. thick. Peel and devein shrimps. Add shells to court bouillon. Cut haddock and porgy into 1-in. chunks. If bay scallops are used, leave whole. If sea scallops are used, cut into quarters or sixths. Sprinkle haddock, porgy, shrimps and scallops generously with salt and pepper. Pour oil into large kettle over low flame. Add squid and sauté slowly, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Add onions, garlic, parsley, red-pepper flakes and oregano. Sauté until onions are deep yellow. Add wine and cook until wine is reduced to approximately 1 cup. Add tomato paste and court bouillon, mixing well. Simmer until squid is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. This part of the preparation--cooking squid--may take place several hours before partytime; simply keep the kettle in the refrigerator until needed, then reheat before completing the recipe. Add haddock, porgy, shrimps and scallops to pot with hot gravy. Boil 10 minutes. Remove fish to platter or shallow serving casserole as in preceding recipe. Spoon gravy over fish to moisten. Serve balance of gravy with croutons in individual serving dishes.

[recipe_title]Red Snapper and Shrimp Stew, South American Style[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 lbs. jumbo shrimps, 12-18 to pound[/recipe]

[recipe]3 lbs. red snapper, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. pompano, cleaned, split, backbone removed[/recipe]

[recipe]4 cups court bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups coconut milk[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups long-grain rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup onions, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup celery, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons very finely minced cilantro[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground coriander[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons lemon juice[/recipe]

To prepare coconut milk, pierce eyes of coconut and drain off liquid. Split coconut in half, using very heavy French knife or cleaver. Remove coconut meat from hard outer shell. Scrape or cut off thin brown coating. Cut coconut into small dice and place in blender. Blend at high speed in several batches, if necessary, until coconut is finely chopped. Pour 2 cups boiling water over coconut and let stand 1/2 hour. Strain coconut milk through cheesecloth. Peel and de-vein shrimps. Use shells in making court bouillon. Cut red snapper and pompano into 1-in. chunks and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Cook rice, following directions on package. Keep warm in double boiler. Heat olive oil in large kettle over low flame. Add onions, celery, garlic, cilantro and coriander. Sauté until onions are limp. Add fish and shrimps. Add coconut milk and court bouillon, using only as much court bouillon as necessary to cover fish. Boil 10 minutes. Lift fish and shrimps carefully with slotted spoon to serving platter or shallow serving casserole. Add lemon juice to gravy; add salt and pepper if necessary. Pour gravy over fish to moisten. Place a mound of rice in each individual serving dish or bowl. Pass gravy separately to be poured over rice and stew.

You don't have to worry about the principal ingredient of a fish-stew fete--conviviality; that will be supplied by your guests after they've been properly mellowed by any of the above ingratiating gifts from the sea.