The Splendid Soufflé

Soufflés are much maligned. "Difficult," "chancy," "maybe" are what you hear about them. Nonsense. They are easier to make than a common stew. There is only one inflexible rule about a soufflé: It must be eaten when ready. A soufflé will not wait upon people: People must wait upon a soufflé. You will benefit by reading the following paragraphs before you plunge into any of the recipes. They will give you some insight into why you are doing what you are doing--a very comfortable feeling for anyone who finds himself in a kitchen making his first soufflé.

The Soufflé Dish: You can make a soufflé in any heatproof utensil of no more than two-quart capacity. It is best, however, to use the traditional French white-china dish; it makes the soufflé look better when it comes to the table. I have almost always specified a two-quart dish, because with it you do not need a collar--that piece of paper tied around the rim of the dish to prevent the soufflé from running over. I find collars a pretentious nuisance.

All of these recipes are for four people. You may halve any of them and use a one-quart dish. Under no circumstance should you attempt to double or triple a recipe and try to cook it in a big bowl. It won't work. Make, instead, two or three soufflés of the usual size. It is useful to have a one-and-a-half-quart dish also. There are several soufflés--lemon and tomato, for instance--that, for some reason, are reluctant to rise very high. They look more successful in a one-and-a-half-quart dish.

If you wish to serve individual soufflés--clam, for example, makes a good first course--there are small-size dishes that hold about eight ounces. Of course, I am speaking of the classic and, I think, best way of serving a soufflé. But actually, it can be cooked in almost anything--half an orange rind, a scallop shell, inside a crepe, a baked-potato skin--indeed, even on a flat plate.

Preparation of the Dish: The bottom and sides of the soufflé dish should be rubbed with butter. For entree and vegetable soufflés, sprinkle a little flour over the butter. For dessert soufflés, sprinkle with a little sugar. If you should sometimes forget to do this, don't worry; it really isn't vital.

Egg Whites: The whites of eggs should be beaten until they are stiff and creamy. Overbeating will make them hard and dry. If you use a hand beater, this advice is superfluous, since you will probably be exhausted long before the whites can become hard and dry. The warning is for anyone who might be too ambitious with an electric mixer. If the whites are too stiff, they simply will not combine easily and thoroughly with the sauce. So watch for the right moment; the whites will be ready when they glisten and stand in peaks.

In each of the recipes, you will notice that a large spoonful of whites is folded into the sauce before this sauce is dribbled into the remaining whites. Don't neglect to do this. It lightens the sauce--aerates it--so that you do not have the dead weight of a heavy mixture dropping, plunk, on the bubbles of egg whites.

Cream of Tartar: You will notice that a half teaspoon of cream of tartar is included in all of the following recipes. Sprinkle it over the egg whites as they are being beaten. A veteran soufflé maker will likely ignore this instruction, but the recruit will do well to follow it. For cream of tartar is insurance--like a major-medical policy, which you may never need but which is comforting to have around: It stiffens the backbone of the egg whites, guaranteeing that they do what they are supposed to do--rise and shine.

Cooling: This is one of the real requirements of soufflé making. The sauce must be cool. (A good way to determine the right temperature is to hold the top of your double boiler in the palm of your hand. If you can do this comfortably, the sauce is ready.)

Cooking: In all the recipes, a 350° oven is called for. It must always be preheated.

Cooking time will vary. I have made numberless soufflés that were ready in 25 minutes. On the other hand, I have encountered recalcitrant soufflés, made from the same recipes, cooked in the same oven, that demanded 30 minutes.

So I have had to come up with a method for testing. A soufflé, as long as it remains in its warm oven home, is a pretty sturdy dish. You don't have to worry about tiptoeing around the kitchen or opening the oven door and taking a look. At about minute 22, I open the oven door and give the dish a little shove. If the top of the soufflé shakes only slightly, I know it is well mannered and will be done in two or three minutes. If, on the other hand, the crust really trembles, so that I have the feeling that the underneath is still soupy, I recognize a delinquent that will require another eight, or even ten, minutes. After you have made this test on several soufflés, you will find yourself able to judge the degree of doneness exactly.

We begin with a breakfast soufflé--not for an early morning meal when you're late for the office but for lazy Saturdays or Sundays when time doesn't matter. While you're waiting for the soufflé to bake, have whatever is the best fresh fruit at the moment, then, afterward, lots of hot buttered toast or croissants and a variety of jams--or better yet, some sharp piccalilli and, of course, strong black coffee.

[recipe_title]Bacon and Eggs Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups well-seasoned chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]5 eggs, separated[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup crisp crumbled bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes. Add the chicken broth and stir constantly until the mixture is rich and smooth. Remove the top of the double boiler from the heat. Let the mixture cool a bit and beat the egg yolks and add to the mixture along with 3/4 of the bacon. Let the mixture cool thoroughly. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and creamy. Sprinkle the cream of tartar over them as you beat. After the egg-yolk mixture has cooled, spoon about 1/3 of the whites into it and combine them vigorously. Dribble this mixture over the remaining whites, lifting and folding carefully until all is combined. Place the mixture into a buttered and floured 2-quart soufflé dish. Sprinkle the remaining bacon on top of the soufflé. Bake for about 25 minutes in a preheated 350° oven. Test to be certain it is done.

[recipe_title]Entree Soufflés[/recipe_title]

[recipe_title]Cheese Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. cheddar cheese, grated[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash of cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]6 eggs, separated[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

In the top of a double boiler (over boiling water), melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the milk and the cheese and, stirring constantly, cook until the mixture is rich and smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove the top of the double boiler from the heat, add a dash of cayenne and the egg yolks and beat until all is smooth. Allow the mixture to cool, 15 minutes at least. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and creamy. Sprinkle the cream of tartar over them as you beat. When the cheese mixture is cool, spoon about 1/3 of the egg whites into it and combine vigorously. Now dribble this mixture over the remaining egg whites and lift and fold carefully until all is combined. Slide this mixture into a buttered and floured 2-quart soufflé dish and place in a preheated 350° oven. This should be done in about 25 minutes, but test it as suggested in the introduction.

[recipe_title]Anchovy Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 2-oz. jar anchovies with capers and olive oil or 1-1/2 tablespoons anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]5 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Put the anchovies into a bowl and mash them, capers and all, into a paste with a wooden spoon.

In the top of a double boiler (over boiling water), melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the chicken broth and, stirring constantly, cook until the mixture is rich and smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove the top of the double boiler from the heat, add the anchovy paste and egg yolks and beat until all is smooth. Allow the mixture to cool, 15 minutes at least. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and creamy. Sprinkle the cream of tartar over them as you beat. When the anchovy mixture is cool, spoon about 1/3 of the egg whites into it and blend vigorously. Now dribble this mixture over the remaining egg whites and lift and fold carefully until all is combined. Slide this mixture into a buttered and floured 2-quart soufflé dish and place in a preheated 350° oven. This should be done in about 25 minutes, but test it.

[recipe_title]Sole Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 equal-size slices fillet of sole[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash of salt and pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]5 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

(continued on page 184) Soufflé (continued from page 122)

Roll each of the sole fillets up neatly and fasten with a toothpick. Poach them gently in water to which you have added the lemon juice. When they are done--7 or 8 minutes--remove them carefully and let them drain on absorbent paper. When the fillets have drained, place them in a buttered and floured 2-quart soufflé dish. Remove the toothpicks. In the top of a double boiler, melt the butter, stir in the flour. Cook for a couple of minutes. Pour in the chicken broth, add a dash of salt and pepper and the parmesan cheese. Stir constantly until mixture is rich and smooth. Remove from heat and then add beaten egg yolks. Again, stir until smooth. Then set aside to cool for at least 15 minutes. Beat the egg whites, sprinkling the cream of tartar over them as you go, into stiff creamy peaks. Spoon 1/3 of the beaten whites over the cooled cheese mixture. Stir in vigorously. Then dribble this sauce over the rest of the whites. Lift and fold carefully until all is blended lightly. Slide this over the sole fillets. Bake in a preheated 350° oven for 25 minutes, but test before removing from oven.

[recipe_title]Plain Soufflé with Caviar Sauce[/recipe_title]

This is a soufflé to have some happy midnight when you are celebrating something fine. A bottle of champagne is really all you need add--except, of course, a soufflé-loving companion.

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]Cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]6 egg yolks, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz. jar best black caviar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]6 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes. Add the milk and the parmesan cheese and, stirring constantly, cook until all is smooth. Remove from the heat, add a dash of cayenne and the beaten egg yolks. Stir until this becomes a creamy sauce, then set aside to cool to room temperature. Mix the caviar with the sour cream and refrigerate. Beat the egg whites, sprinkling the cream of tartar over them, until they form moist peaks. Spoon 1/3 of the beaten whites over the basic sauce and mix well. Dribble this over the remaining whites and lift and fold gently to combine throughout. Slide this mixture into a buttered and floured 2-quart soufflé dish and bake in a preheated oven (350°). The dish should be done in 25 minutes, but test ahead of time to make certain. When serving the soufflé, dribble some of the caviar-and-sour-cream sauce over each portion.

[recipe_title]Dessert Soufflés[/recipe_title]

[recipe_title]Vanilla Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1-in. piece of vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract[/recipe]

[recipe]5 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]6 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler. Mix in the flour. Cook a minute; add the hot milk, the sugar and, if you have it, a 1-in. piece of vanilla bean. If no vanilla bean, a teaspoon of vanilla extract will do, but add it after the mixture is cooked. Stir this constantly until it is thick and smooth. Remove from the fire and discard the vanilla bean. (Now add the vanilla extract, if that's what you're using.) Beat the egg yolks and add to the sauce. Allow the mixture to cool, 15 minutes at least. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and creamy. Sprinkle the cream of tartar over them as you beat. When the egg whites are stiff, add a large spoonful to the vanilla mixture and fold thoroughly until the mixture has a slightly foamy texture. Now, dribble mixture over the remaining egg whites and fold carefully, until all is mixed thoroughly. Slide this into a buttered and sugared 2-quart soufflé dish and place in a preheated 350° oven. This should be done in about 25 minutes, but test it. Crushed raspberries, sugared, with a little kirsch make a good sauce for this. Or you might try either of the following sauces:

[recipe]1/2 cup orange marmalade[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup apricot jam[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup orange juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons lemon juice[/recipe]

In the top of a double boiler, place the orange marmalade and the apricot jam. Cook until they liquefy. Then scrape them into a blender and add the orange juice and the lemon juice. Blend until all is smooth. You can use this sauce either hot or cold.

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons very strong black coffee[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons Grand Marnier[/recipe]

In a small, heavy iron skillet, melt the sugar and stir until it is a rich brown. Remove from the heat and stir in the very strong black coffee and the Grand Marnier. Return to the heat for a moment and stir until all is blended. This sauce can be used hot, cold or lukewarm.

[recipe_title]Grand Marnier Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]5 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]5 tablespoons Grand Marnier[/recipe]

[recipe]6 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler and add the flour. Mix well and cook for a moment. Then pour in the heavy cream, stir constantly until this thickens and then add the sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and allow to cool. When the mixture is cool, beat the yolks and stir them into it along with the Grand Marnier. Sprinkle the cream of tartar over the egg whites while you beat them into stiff moist peaks. Take 1/3 of the beaten whites and mix vigorously into the Grand Marnier sauce. Then dribble this sauce over the remaining egg whites and fold thoroughly and carefully. Slide the soufflé mixture into a buttered and sugared 2-quart soufflé dish and place in a preheated 350° oven for about 20 minutes. Test to make certain the soufflé is done before removing from the oven.

[recipe_title]Coffee Soufflé[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup hot milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup strong black coffee[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]5 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar[/recipe]

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler and mix in the flour. Cook a minute. Add the hot milk and the strong black coffee. Add the sugar and cook and stir constantly until the mixture is well combined. Take this off the fire. Beat the yolks, and when the mixture is slightly cool, add them to it. Beat the egg whites until stiff, sprinkling the cream of tartar over them as you beat. When the mixture is really cool, add a large spoonful of the whites and combine thoroughly with it, then add this to the remaining egg whites and fold gently. Pour this into a buttered and sugared 2-quart soufflé dish and place in a preheated 350° oven. This should take about 25 minutes, but test it. The best sauce for this coffee soufflé is simply whipped cream, thoroughly chilled, with a little brandy added.

So take heart. As you can see, there is nothing mysterious about the soufflé scene. Just remember that knowledge is the prime ingredient, and press on.