Spirits of Christmas Past......and Present

Christmastide is no time for martinis, manhattans or other conventional nostrums. The mood of the season is open and convivial; Gemütlichkeit is loose in the land. The idea--to paraphrase Simon ... or is it Garfunkel?--is to make the feeling last. And it isn't that hard. All you need is a group of simpatico souls and a complement of cheery libations whose color and content evoke thoughts of yuletide.

Whether you opt for spirits past or present is a matter of personal choice. Saxons once guzzled wassail from cups made of their fallen enemies' skulls. Such raffish behavior would be considered bad form by today's standards. But don't let that spoil your merriment. You can still quaff the venerable wassail and other legendary brews once imbibed by the likes of Charles Dickens and Mary, Queen of Scots--albeit in more conventional vessels. Or you can brighten the holidays with lighter and simpler, but equally festive, contemporary drinks--which may become the stuff of romance and tradition for future generations.

The December season of celebration actually predates Christianity by many centuries. Singing, lighting of candles, exchanging of gifts, masquerades and parades were often part of the fun. Apparently, the longing for a freewheeling frolic at the time of the winter solstice stems from some deep atavistic impulse. So turn on to the seasonal excitement. And keep in mind that carousing is a participatory sport. Skoal!

Spirits of Christmas Past

[recipe_title]Glogg[/recipe_title]

(Serves 20)

Some form of glögg is traditionally known as Christmas wine to the people of northern Europe.

[drinkRecipe]Spice bag: 4 each whole allspice and cardamom, 1 stick cinnamon

[drinkRecipe]10 dried apricots, cut in half[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 lb. lump sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint aquavit or vodka, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 pint cognac, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Nuts and raisins[/drinkRecipe]

Tie spices in a cheesecloth bag and heat, along with dried apricots, in wine. When wine just comes to simmer, remove the bag and pour into a large, prewarmed heatproof punch bowl. Place a wiremesh rack on top of the bowl (a cake rack is perfect). Build a castle on the rack with the sugar; be sure it's solid. Carefully pour the warmed aquavit or vodka over the sugar and ignite with a fireplace match. As sugar melts, extinguish flame and turn the sugar into the bowl. Add cognac. For each serving, place a few raisins and a nut into a cup or a mug and add about 4 ozs. punch, including half an apricot.

[recipe_title]Dickens' Christmas Wassail[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

Charles Dickens has preserved for all time the record of Christmas in mid-19th Century England. Here is a wassail from his own recipe ... they say you can still get it at the King's Head at Rochester, one of Charley's favorite inns.

[drinkRecipe]1 quart English ale[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon each powdered nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 bottle oloroso sherry[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup sugar or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 baked apples[/drinkRecipe]

Heat ale in pan over low heat until foamy. Remove from heat and add spices, sherry, juice of the lemon, sugar and rind from half the lemon. (Carefully remove rind before squeezing juice.) Stir to melt sugar. Return wassail to very low heat. Scoop pulp from baked apples and fluff with a fork. Add a bit of this "lamb's wool" to each portion.

[recipe_title]Mr. Micawber's Punch[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight)

"I never saw a man so thoroughly enjoy himself amid the fragrance of lemon peel and sugar, the odor of burning rum and the steam of boiling water, as Mr. Micawber did that afternoon. It was wonderful to see his face shining at us out of a thin cloud of these delicate fumes."

----David Copperfield

[drinkRecipe]1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup sugar or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch each powdered nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint boiling water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon slices

Grate the lemon rind and place in pan with sugar, spices, brandy, rum and boiling water. Heat to just below simmer. Squeeze lemon and strain juice into punch bowl. Add hot mixture from pan and serve. Garnish with lemon slices.

[recipe_title]Hot Buttered Apple[/recipe_title]

A cockle warmer from way back.

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. apple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch each ground nutmeg, cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 baked apple (canned is fine)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. dark Puerto Rican or Jamaican rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pat salted butter[/drinkRecipe]

Heat apple juice with spices. If you're using sweet butter, add 1 shake of salt to pan. Place baked apple in mug or heavy old fashioned glass. Add rum and apple juice. Top with butter.

Note: Freshly grated nutmeg is surprisingly more pungent than the prepared. You don't need a grater; just scrape the side of a whole nutmeg with the tip of a paring knife.

[recipe_title]The Farmer's Bishop[/recipe_title]

(Serves 20)

There are literally dozens of versions of the bishop, including a cardinal and a pope. The mull, negus and what the French call vin chaud are all akin to the bishop--essentially hot, spiced wine that may be laced with some spirit. This farmer's bishop, made with hard cider, is one of the most interesting.

[drinkRecipe]3 oranges[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]18 whole cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 quarts hard cider[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 slices fresh ginger (about the size of a nickel) or a chunk of dried ginger root[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/8 teaspoon nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 fifth brandy, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Apples[/drinkRecipe]

Stud each orange with 6 cloves. Place in pan and roast in 350° oven for 45--50 minutes, until cloves turn grayish. Meanwhile, heat cider with spices to just below simmer (it should not bubble). Remove roasted oranges to heatproof serving bowl with tongs. Prick the skins with a fork. Be careful, as oranges sometimes spurt hot juice. Sprinkle several tablespoons sugar over oranges, pour in warm brandy and ignite with a long-handled match or taper. (To warm brandy, remove cap and place bottle in bowl or kettle of hot water for 10--15 minutes.) Let it burn for a moment. Pour in the heated cider, first removing ginger. Stir in sugar to taste, if desired. Add a wedge of cored, unpeeled apple to each serving.

[recipe_title]Syllabub[/recipe_title]

Mary, Queen of Scots, called this potion "silly bubbles." Samuel Pepys was fond of it, too. An old recipe for London syllabub says to put wine into a bowl, "then milk into it near 2 quarts of milk, frothed up." The drink is rich and indecently delicious. You can reduce the amount of cream, but you sacrifice some of the bubbles.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. sherry[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. heavy cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar or to taste (more will be required for a dry sherry)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/8 teaspoon grated lemon rind[/drinkRecipe]

Chill all ingredients, as well as bowl and beater. Combine and beat vigorously. Serve in large chilled wineglass, as the mixture expands when beaten. Let it stand a moment after pouring. The bubbles rise, forming a frothy collar.

Spirits of Christmas Present

[recipe_title]The Ski Bishop[/recipe_title]

(Serves 12 to 15)

[drinkRecipe]2 oranges[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]9 whole cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 fifths red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 short sticks cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Few whole allspice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon-peel spiral[/drinkRecipe]

Moisten oranges and lemon with wine and stick each with 3 cloves. (First puncture lemon rind with tip of knife, if necessary.) Roll each in sugar to coat. Place fruit on foil-lined pan and roast in 375° oven until sugar caramelizes--about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, heat wine just to simmer (do not let it boil) with remaining spices. Add roasted fruit to wine and about 1/4 cup sugar--you can add more later, if desired--and let mixture stand about 1/2 hour. Strain; discard spices; place fruit in heatproof bowl. Reheat wine to just below simmer and pour over fruit. Taste for sugar. Serve in (concluded on page 270)Spirits of Christmas(continued from page 228) mugs or cups with a spiral of lemon peel for decoration.

Note: May also be served chilled.

[recipe_title]Holiday Sour[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. blended whiskey or bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Holiday garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first three ingredients briskly with ice cubes. Give the shaker a workout; that's the secret of a good sour. Pour unstrained into highball glass or large wineglass. Lay garnish across glass.

Garnish: Thread a short bamboo skewer or plastic cocktail pick with red and green fruit, alternating colors: strawberries, green grapes, watermelon balls, wedge of lime or honeydew-melon balls.

[recipe_title]Partridge in a Pear Tree[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. pear brandy (eau de vie de poire)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. apple-pear nectar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Red cherry[/drinkRecipe]

Whole spiced Seckel pear or firm canned pear half

Shake brandy, nectar and lemon juice with cracked ice until chilled. Strain over fresh ice in wide-mouthed old fashioned glass. Fix cherry to blossom end of pear with short pick and set in glass.

[recipe_title]Yule Nog[/recipe_title]

(Serves 20 to 25)

[drinkRecipe]2 quarts peach ice cream, softened[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. peach cordial[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 fifth bourbon, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Chocolate curls[/drinkRecipe]

Place ice cream in large chilled bowl. Slowly stir in liquor until creamy. Garnish with curls of dark, unsweetened chocolate made by running a potato peeler or sharp knife along a solid block of chocolate.

[recipe_title]Mt. Snow Blizzard[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. applejack or calvados[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon concentrated apple juice Nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Concentrated apple juice is a sweetener sold in natural-food stores. You may substitute 1 teaspoon sugar and a few drops vanilla extract. Shake first three ingredients vigorously with cracked ice until frigid. Strain into chilled highball glass. Dust lightly with nutmeg.

[recipe_title]Christmas Frost[/recipe_title]

Almost as clear as vodka, white whiskey has a definite, though light liquor taste, strangely reminiscent of the light Puerto Rican rums.

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. white whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/2 lime[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with cracked ice until well chilled. Strain into Christmas-frosted cocktail glass.

To frost glass: Mix red and green sugar crystals on napkin or fresh dish towel. Run a wedge of lime or lemon around the rim of the glass, moistening both sides. Invert and swirl rim in sugar crystals. Shake off excess gently before pouring in liquor.

Follow the preceding directions carefully and our host of spirits past and present will quickly put to flight the ghosts of winter gloom. Cheers!