By Dawn's Early Light

More and More farsighted hosts these days are convinced that the best way to end a New Year's Eve party is by starting another one--a breakfast at dawn. The lazy exodus at sunrise that's often a distinct letdown will be stayed and the revelers revived by mountains of scrambled eggs with anchovy toast, an avalanche of hot grilled link sausages and a chafing dish bubbling with creamed Smithfield ham and pearl hominy. Outside, the dawn may still come up like thunder; inside, the festival will start to the steamed-up rhythm of the coffee maker.

A wise variation on the standard New Year's Eve theme is to move the party en masse--come breakfast time--to the pad of one of the celebrants who has volunteered to be the number-two host. In this case, some brief teamwork in advance between the two hosts means the job of New Year's entertaining will be divided rather than doubled. No law says a holiday breakfast can't be held in the very same digs in which a few hours earlier the bubbly was flowing copiously. But a fresh locale--an apartment on another floor of the same building or neighboring digs--and, if possible, a deep breath of cold winter air are the best possible aperitifs for a gathering at the break of day. Needless to say, an advance party of the host and his helper should leave the main body beforehand to set up shop.

By its very nature, a breakfast is the kind of meal in which any kind of show-off menu is as out of place as a neon sign on a buffet table. Let your menu be simple but imaginative. The flaming skewers and ornate aspics of the formal dinner table give way to dishes as rustic as smoked-salmon, cream-cheese-and-potato cakes. Remember that dishes such as crepes, which a few years ago cut a somewhat precious figure, are now accepted as easygoing members of the breakfast board, perfectly at home alongside brioche and butter. While breakfast dishes should be unpretentious, nothing should be permitted to turn the gathering into a hit-or-miss arrangement. Several days before the party, scan your menu and set the stage comfortably in advance: Smoked-salmon cakes or waffles may be frozen and reheated at the last moment; crepes, creamed ham and hominy, griddlecake batter and the makings of a tempting egg platter should be assembled and in the refrigerator, ready to go at the first streak of sunrise. Croissants, salt sticks or any other form of bread or rolls should be freshened in the oven just before they're borne to the table. If you are offering fresh toast, use the broiler for toasting it in one huge batch in order to serve it piping hot at one time. In justice to your guests, open a fresh can of coffee or, if you own a coffee grinder, grind the beans minutes before they're put into the pot. And dawn breaks brightest when it's ushered in with a well-chosen pick-me-up.

The following recipes will make pulses leap anew and keep body and soul together long after the last echo of popping champagne corks has died away.

[recipe_title]Cognac Sour With Bitters[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 1/2 ozs. cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 egg white (1 tablespoon)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 generous dashes Angostura bitters[/recipe]

To measure egg white, beat slightly with fork. Shake cognac, lemon juice, sugar and egg white extremely well with ice. Strain into prechilled Delmonico or whiskey-sour glass. Pour bitters on top.

[recipe_title]Smoked-salmon, Cream-cheese-and-potato Cakes[/recipe_title]

(12--14 cakes)

[recipe]1/4 lb. sliced Nova Scotia salmon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large baking potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. cream cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup onions, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]Butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

Bake potatoes in oven preheated at 450° until soft--about 1 hour. Beat egg yolks in large mixing bowl. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise; scoop out pulp while still hot, force through potato ricer and mix well with egg yolks. Force cream cheese through ricer into bowl. Cut salmon into 1/8-in. dice. Sauté onions in 2 tablespoons butter until tender but not brown. Add salmon, onions, salt and pepper to potato mixture and stir well. Shape into cakes about 1 1/2 ins. in diameter and 1/2 in. thick. If mixture is too soft to handle, a tablespoon or two of bread crumbs may be added. Sauté cakes in a mixture of half oil, half butter until brown on both sides. Browned cakes may be frozen and reheated in a moderate oven before serving.

[recipe_title]Creamed Ham and Pearl Hominy[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 lb. thinly sliced boiled Smithfield ham or baked Virginia-style ham[/recipe]

[recipe]20-oz. can hominy[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups light cream or half-and-half[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons instant flour[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper[/recipe]

Cut ham into l/2-in. dice. Place hominy in strainer; wash well under cold running water; drain. Pour cream into saucepan. Stir in flour until completely blended. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add ham and hominy and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in sherry; add salt and pepper to taste. May be chilled in refrigerator and reheated just before serving.

[recipe_title]Scrambled-Egg Platter[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]12-18 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons milk (optional)[/recipe]

[recipe]Butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 teaspoons anchovy paste[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. small link sausages[/recipe]

[recipe]3 sweet green peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]3 sweet red peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, white pepper, sugar, paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices white bread[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons finely chopped chives[/recipe]

Sprinkle eggs with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper (milk may be added to eggs, if desired). Soften 3 tablespoons butter and blend until smooth with anchovy paste. Cook sausages in two batches, if necessary. Place them in a single layer in a large skillet. Add 1/2 cup water and simmer, covered, 5 minutes. Pour off water and continue to cook over moderate heat until they're lightly browned--5 to 8 minutes. Place sausages in a single layer in shallow pan or casserole. Place peppers under high broiler heat, turning occasionally, until they're charred all over. Remove skins with towel or knife. Cut in half, remove stem ends and seeds, then cut them lengthwise into 1/2-in. strips. Sauté them briefly in oil--until barely tender. Place in shallow pan. Remove stem ends of tomatoes and cut in half crosswise. Sprinkle cut sides with salt, pepper, sugar, paprika and oil. Place in shallow pan. Place eggs, anchovy butter, sausages, peppers and tomatoes in refrigerator, keeping each item covered. Before serving, preheat oven at 400°. Bake tomatoes about 15 minutes or until tender. They may be placed under broiler for additional browning, if desired. Also in oven, reheat sausages about 10 minutes and peppers about 5 minutes. Toast bread; spread with anchovy butter and sprinkle with chives. Cut each piece of anchovy toast into 3 strips. Melt 6 tablespoons butter in large skillet or chafing dish. Add eggs and cook, stirring frequently, until soft scrambled. Place eggs on large platter. Garnish with anchovy toast, sausages, peppers and tomatoes.

[recipe_title]Orange Griddlecakes[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour[/recipe]

[recipe]5 teaspoons baking powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup orange juice[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons grated orange rind[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

Put all ingredients in large bowl and mix at low or moderate speed until all are moistened and just blended. Batter need not be velvety smooth. Preheat electric griddle at 390°; grease lightly with oil. Drop batter by large spoonfuls to make griddlecakes 3 1/2 to 4 ins. in diameter. When they're dull looking around edge and bubbly in center, turn and brown other side. Serve with butter. Offer a choice of maple syrup, blueberry syrup or 1 cup honey warmed with 2 tablespoons butter until butter dissolves.

[recipe_title]New Orleans Rice Waffles[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 cup bread flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup cake flour[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons baking powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon baking soda[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons curaçao[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup cooked rice[/recipe]

Put all ingredients except rice in large blender and blend 1 minute at high speed. Do this in two batches if small blender is used. Scrape sides of blender, if necessary, to blend thoroughly. Remove from blender and stir in rice. Bake in preheated waffle iron 4 to 5 minutes or until light brown. Waffles may be frozen, if desired, and reheated in a 450° oven 4 to 5 minutes. Place frozen waffles directly on oven racks. Avoid excessive browning. (concluded on page 226)Dawn's Early Light(continued from page 160) Serve with butter and maple syrup or with cinnamon syrup (recipe below).

[recipe_title]Crepes With Raspberry Cream[/recipe_title]

(12 crepes)

[recipe]2 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Seedless red-raspberry jam[/recipe]

[recipe]Superfine sugar[/recipe]

Pour eggs, egg yolks, milk, flour and salt into blender and blend 1 minute at high speed. Stop blender and scrape sides, if necessary, to blend thoroughly. Pour enough oil into a heavy pan 6 ins. across bottom to coat pan lightly. Pour off excess oil. Place pan over moderate heat. Pour about 2 1/2 tablespoons batter into pan (just enough to coat bottom) and at once tilt pan to coat bottom completely. When crepe is light brown on one side, turn and cook briefly on the other just long enough so that the second side doesn't look raw. Continue making crepes in this manner until batter has been used. Spread crepes on browned side lightly with raspberry jam, using about 1 1/2 teaspoons per crepe. Place 2 scant tablespoons filling (recipe below) on each crepe and roll up. Place crepes seam down in heavily buttered crepe pan or shallow skillet. Cover and chill in refrigerator. Before serving, reheat crepes over moderate heat, browning on both sides. Sprinkle sugar on top just before serving.

[recipe_title]Filling for Crepes[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons instant flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg yolks, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon vanilla[/recipe]

Pour milk and cream into saucepan. Stir in flour, sugar and salt, blending well. Add butter and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until sauce is thick. Simmer over low heat 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Slowly stir in egg yolks. Cook over moderate heat 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from flame and stir in vanilla. Cool slightly before filling crepes.

[recipe_title]Cinnamon Syrup[/recipe_title]

(Makes 1 1/3 cups)

[recipe]1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup boiling water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

Mix sugar, salt and cinnamon in saucepan. Stir in boiling water; bring to a boil. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon cold water and stir into saucepan. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from flame and stir in butter.

And as the sun rises in the east, your guests' spirits and appetites will rise accordingly. It's another new year and all's right with the world (or with your world, at least).