Fast Feast

Prominent scientists believe that a hairy paleolithic man, breaking up rocks to get a boulder to brain an enemy, accidentally struck some flint and iron pyrites together. Sparks flew into dry leaves. Fire was discovered.

There is an analogy in another accident that may make fire obsolete. In Waltham, Massachusetts, in 1945, Raytheon's Dr. Percy Spencer approached the power tube of a radar set. Although a bit more sophisticated than rocks, radar is also a defense against enemies. Eyes on the sensitive tube, Dr. Spencer reached into the pocket of his white lab coat for a candy bar to munch on. What he found shook the scientific world. The candy was a gooey mess.

Dr. Spencer immediately experimented in the heat of that microwave field, popping corn, cooking a hot dog and other food before a small radar antenna. From that came a first patent, Treating Foodstuffs, in 1950, and, in ten years' time, 117 other patents in microwave technology. These resulted in the microwave oven, the fastest cooking unit in existence.

In later years, there were patent contributions by Tappan, General Electric and Litton Industries, and today there are perhaps ten companies manufacturing microwave ovens. Some have special browning units; some can be used in conjunction with the ordinary stove; sizes vary; so do prices. The Japanese have entered the field in a big way. Dr. Spencer, however, led it, and his discovery resulted in the modern oven that I own and have experimented with for over two years, the Amana Radarange. Its counterpart was introduced as a very expensive commercial oven in 1947; but a compact home model for under $500 wasn't available to the public until 1967.

It is proper that the 90-pound microwave oven of stainless-steel and aluminum construction looks like a large portable television set. It took a couple of weeks before I could dial in the cooking waves without expecting to get Walter Cronkite. But it took only one minute to convince me that this was a man-benefiting spin-off from aerospace science. A private demonstration showed me a slice of bacon crisply cooked on paper toweling in one minute, a medium-rare hamburger on blue china in 40 seconds, lobster tails, frozen solid, cooking to perfection on a paper plate in five minutes, a five-pound sirloin of beef sizzling right on its carving board, done in just over a half hour.

This kind of thing can stir up an imagination spin-off, a projection of heretofore impossible culinary short cuts. The microwave oven can't stuff a chicken, carve, nor open a bottle of wine, but it can drastically reduce dishwashing, do away completely with pot-and-pan cleanup, take the heat and labor out of cooking, reduce one's time in the kitchen for all meals by over 50 percent and for many up to 80 percent. It does amazing timesaving tricks, such as melting butter and chocolate in their wrappers, reducing steps for making sauces and pastries. Tea and coffee can be brought to the boil in their cups, too-hard ice cream softened in its container.

Uncooked frozen foods can be defrosted at two minutes per pound; all precooked frozen meals can be taken out of the freezer and placed piping hot on the table in about six minutes flat. Thus, you can prepare ahead for large groups and let the microwaves do the chores without losing drinking time.

Leftover foods are brought back to their original life. Cooked pastas (I am un tifoso della pasta--a pasta nut), which I once unenthusiastically reheated the next day or discarded, can now be stored for a week in a bowl covered with plastic wrap, then popped into the microwave oven for 1-1/2 minutes and served with its original form and flavor.

Flavor is improved; there is a greater retention of vitamins. No water is used in cooking vegetables and fruits; nutrients are not dissolved and natural colors and flavors are preserved. Lower surface temperatures and the fast cooking reduce evaporation and breakdown of nutrients.

Microwaves do not cook by direct application of heat. Electromagnetic waves from the power source are instantly absorbed into the food, becoming heat energy, cooking all of the food simultaneously. Simply, they are electromagnetic waves of energy, like those sent out by television and radio transmitters. You dial them the same way, bringing heat rather than a picture or sound. They have the characteristics of light waves, traveling in a straight line, and can be generated, absorbed, transmitted. In the microwave oven, the generator producing the cooking waves is a magnetron, a vacuum tube that operates as an oscillator to generate microwaves.

The oven--be it Thermador, Hotpoint, Toshiba or Amana--is easier to operate than a television set. Mine has two timer dials, one for a limit of five minutes; another, 30. There are three switches: Start, Stop, Lights. One simply places food in the oven, dials the number of minutes it should cook and punches the Start and the Light buttons, so that the cooking action can be observed. A buzzer sounds and the oven automatically switches off when the dialed time has elapsed.

It is important to remember that cooking times in the various makes of microwave ovens may differ. Check the literature carefully, keeping in mind the danger of overcooking. Food continues to cook for a few minutes after it is removed from the oven.

We lazy ones who believe that time is precious and too much effort obnoxious are encouraged by microwaves--actually forced to use items that must be discarded. You cannot use metal of any kind, not even aluminum foil, in a microwave oven. Metal reflects the microwaves, preventing penetration of food. Paper, glass and china transmit microwaves and water absorbs them. Food is heated by that absorption. When you do the unbelievable and cook a hot dog on a paper napkin, the microwaves zero in only on the food, each inch of which has millions of molecules. They react to microwaves in the manner of a needle to a magnet. Move a magnet quickly from one side of a compass to the other, repeat it many times and the friction in the bearing that supports the needle causes it to become heated. And that's basically what happens when food molecules are oscillated by the microwaves. They turn 180 degrees, then return to their starting position 2,450,000 times a second. This fantastic action causes the food to heat.

Here is an easy lunch, a bachelor supper, a dinner and a couple of midnight snacks I heated up while experimenting with the waves. How about a ten-minute meat loaf for a starter?

[recipe_title]Midday Meat Loaf[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

A meat loaf may be a freak meatball or a jazzed-up hamburger, but spectacularly cooked by microwaves before luncheon-guest spectators are halfway through tall cold drinks, it is a dish to remember.

[recipe]1/2 pound pork sausage[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pound twice-ground beef[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pound twice-ground pork[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pound twice-ground veal[/recipe]

[recipe]2 eggs, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup grated asiago or parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons Italian parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons white raisins, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]6 shallots, sautéed in butter until soft[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can tomato purée (the type with spices and green pepper)[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Hearty black-pepper millings[/recipe]

Mix all ingredients well in large bowl. Your hands are the best instruments. Butter a glass 2-quart loaf dish. Spoon the meat mixture into the dish; it should be evenly filled but not packed solidly. Cook in microwave oven, uncovered, 5 minutes. Turn the dish to different positions twice during this time. Cook another 5 minutes, turning another two times. Let it set 10 minutes before slicing. With it, I serve a green salad and whole spears of salsify (from a jar), which I have sautéed in butter and lightly sprinkled with lemon juice. A chilled Spanish rosé poured generously gives the space-age meat loaf pâté personality. Cooking time: 10 minutes.

[recipe_title]Lentil and Sausage Supper[/recipe_title]

(Lenticchie e Cotechino)

(Serves six)

A favorite I first had in the Italian Abruzzi, the dish most requested for what is confusingly called a bachelor supper when a gang escaping the chain of their wives gathers for supper. It has several things going for it: It's a one-dish meal, a conversation maker and it is tasty as hell. I insist that only cotechino sausages be used. They are rich, mild and full of personality.

[recipe]1-pound box dry lentils[/recipe]

[recipe]2 1-pound cotechino sausages[/recipe]

[recipe]2 13-3/4-oz. cans College Inn chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]3 small carrots, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]3 small white onions, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 stalk celery, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cloves garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]2 sprigs thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, freshly ground black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika[/recipe]

Wash lentils, soak in cold water 2-1/2 hours. Place sausages (pierced in several places) in glass casserole, cover with hot water, cover casserole, cook in microwave oven 10 minutes after water boils. Remove from oven; let stand 10 minutes. Peel skin from sausages. Drain lentils, place in glass casserole; pour in chicken broth, stir in carrots, 2/3 of the minced onions, celery, 1 tablespoon olive oil, garlic and thyme; season with salt and pepper. Add peeled sausages. Cover casserole, cook in microwave oven 25 minutes after it boils, stirring every 5 minutes and changing position of the casserole each time you stir to ensure even cooking. Taste lentils and carrots; when tender, the dish is done. Cut sausages in 1/2-in. slices and return to casserole. I apologize for using another dish, but the Italian who concocted this has a necessary finishing touch. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in Pyrex dish in microwave oven. Stir in the remaining minced onions; cook 2 minutes. Stir in the paprika; cook exactly 25 seconds: If you overcook, the paprika becomes bitter. Stir the onions and paprika into the lentil pot and let stand 1 hour. When guests are ready, replace lentils in microwave oven for 2 minutes, or until they bubble. This is not a soup and is supposed to be thick. With it, I serve a green salad (Bibb lettuce, fresh (concluded on page 223)Fast Feast(continued from page 104) tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper), crusty warm French bread sliced thick and buttered lavishly, and the king of chiantis, Brolio Riserva. Normal cooking time is 1 hour for the lentil mixture, another hour for the sausage. With the waves, approximate cooking time: 37-1/2 minutes.

[recipe_Title]Pheasant with Shallots and Chablis[/recipe_Title]

(Serves four)

Get as fancy as you want with the microwave oven. But if you can't manage pheasant for this special dinner, use chicken; the waves don't know the difference. I use the ordinary stove for this optional first procedure, browning the pheasant in 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil (to keep the butter from burning), draining the pieces on paper towel. This takes about 10 minutes.

[recipe]2 young, tender, farm-raised hen pheasants, cut up (browned, as above)[/recipe]

[recipe]24 shallots, peeled, left whole[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups Chablis[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon dry rosemary[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

Arrange browned pheasant pieces in deep glass serving dish. Space the shallots around the pieces of bird, pour in the Chablis; sprinkle lightly with rosemary and season with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered, in microwave oven 30 minutes, turning the dish every 5 minutes. Serve the pheasant and shallots from the cooking dish, pour more cold Chablis and run up a green salad. If you are not weight watching, it's impressive to decide on a baked potato, too--after you sit down to dinner. Medium-sized potatoes take 4 minutes each in the microwave oven; you can almost have them ready while the wine is being poured. Cooking time: 30 minutes (plus 10 minutes for the optional browning).

A Pair of Midnight Pleasers

Serving bacon and eggs as they do in Rome and Mexico City has become a late-hour ritual with me. With the waves, it's almost as easy as cracking an egg and tearing off a piece of paper towel.

[recipe_title]Linguine Alla Carbonara[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]12 slices bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]4 eggs, beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups grated asiago or parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Pepper mill, full of black peppercorns Salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pound linguine[/recipe]

Spread a double layer of paper towels on a 12-in. glass pie or cake dish. Arrange bacon strips on paper side by side, not overlapping. Cover with more paper towels. Place in microwave oven; cook 10 minutes. Remove grease-saturated paper towels, pat off remaining grease with fresh paper towels. Break bacon into pieces half the size of thumbnail. Place eggs, cheese and parsley in large bowl. Mill black pepper in lavishly. Beat with whisk or electric beater until mixture is well blended. Have 4 rimmed soup bowls warming in regular oven or special warmer. Almost fill 3-quart glass casserole with hot water. Bring to boil in microwave oven; add 1 tablespoon salt and linguine. Boil 2 minutes; separate strands by stirring with fork. Cook 3 minutes more. Cover, let stand 5 minutes. Test a strand of linguine; it should slightly resist the tooth if properly al dente. Never overcook pasta; it should not be mushy. Working quickly, blend a heaping tablespoon bacon pieces into the egg mixture. Using spaghetti tongs, take the linguine directly from the hot water, shaking off excess water, and add to the cheese-and-egg bowl. The pasta must be hot, so it slightly sets the eggs as you toss the pasta. Using two wooden forks, toss the linguine well but gently with the cheese and eggs. Serve immediately in warm bowls topped with generous spoonings of the remaining crisp bacon pieces. Cooking time: 15 minutes (including bacon).

[recipe_Title]Mexican Eggs and Bacon[/recipe_Title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 small white onions, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium tomatoes, peeled, deseeded, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon Italian parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]8 eggs (beat well with fork; add 1 teaspoon salt)[/recipe]

[recipe]12 slices bacon[/recipe]

Place butter in 9-in. glass plate; heat in microwave oven for 1/2 minute. Add onions; cook 2 minutes or until transparent. Stir in tomatoes, parsley and chili powder. Cook 3 minutes or until excess moisture cooks off. Add eggs; cook 1 minute. Stir well; cook 1 minute; stir. Remove; eggs should be soft and creamy. Do not overcook. Using paper-towels-on-glass-plate system, as in linguine alla carbonara, cook bacon. Serve eggs on warm plates with 3 slices crisp bacon on top of each serving. Cooking time: 17-1/2 minutes (including bacon).

So go make microwaves!