"It's a Naive Little California Brandy without Breeding, but I Think You'll be Amused by Its Presump

Brandy, The Drink of Heroes, as Samuel Johnson once called it, has finally come of age in America. Consumption has more than doubled in the past decade and, here's the kicker, eight out of every ten bottles sold are produced not in France but in our own back yard, sunny California. How come? Well, probably the strongest influence has been a change in the nature of the product itself.

Brandy is traditionally a full-bodied aromatic spirit, (continued on page 216)A Naive California Brandy(continued from page 104) served in a snifter. For decades, California brandy makers, held in thrall by cognac's eminence, tried to duplicate that noble spirit. The resulting liquor was neither French nor American, nor particularly inviting. The United States held the dubious honor of being the only wine-producing land without a distinctive brandy type of its own, accepted by its citizens. With a nudge from the brandy sages at the University of California Department of Viticulture and Oenology, a decision was reached to make an American brandy true to its origins, using the best native grapes and methods, rather than an ersatz cognac.

Although California brandy is not much in a snifter, since it lacks the heady vapors of fine cognac, it's an amiable, versatile spirit that mates happily with the standard mixers, particularly fruit juices. It also makes a gutsier screwdriver than vodka, a smoother sour than whiskey and a helluva stinger. In fact, it may well be the brandy Lucius Beebe had in mind when he stipulated that two Saint Bernards be sent to rescue him--one bearing brandy, the other crème de menthe, so he could make a proper stinger.

The major domestic labels are The Christian Brothers, Coronet VSQ, Aristocrat, Old Mr. Boston, Hartley, Guild, Paul Masson, Almadén, Lejon, Franzia, Gallo, Hiram Walker and Leroux. Distribution is spotty, however. For practical purposes, Christian Brothers and Coronet dominate the market, accounting for almost half of all sales. Coronet, incidentally, copped the Gold Medal award at the 1974 Los Angeles County Fair judging.

Most California brandies, like cognacs, have a touch of sweetening added. But a small group from California, called straights, are totally free of rectifying material. Notable are Conti-Royale, ten years old and well priced; Old San Francisco, aged eight years in new white-oak casks; six-year-old Setrakian; five-year-old Ceremony; and A. R. Morrow 100 proof--the only California brandy bottled in bond. For connoisseurs of the unusual, there are a vintage brandy, Cresta Blanca 1966, and The Christian Brothers XO Rare Reserve, containing 50 percent full-bodied pot-still brandy.

The last two brandies mentioned go both ways--snifter and shaker. But most California brandies are made for mixing and that's where they excel. We invite you to try any of the potions offered below, or substitute California brandy for the designated liquor in your favorite cocktail. See if you don't agree.

[recipe_title]Brandy Sour[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar or sugar syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Frothing mixture (optional)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Fruit garnish (optional)[/drinkRecipe]

Shake brandy, lemon juice, sugar and frothing mixture with cracked ice. Strain into sour glass or wineglass. Decorate with fruit--slice lemon, half slice orange or maraschino cherry.

[recipe_title]Rose Royce[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Tuaca liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. cream[/drinkRecipe]

Shake ingredients briskly with cracked ice or buzz in blender with 1/3 cup crushed ice, until just smooth. Serve in saucer champagne glass.

[recipe_title]Brandy Blush[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon maraschino cherry juice* or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Club soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Maraschino cherry garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Over ice cubes in a large old fashioned glass, pour brandy, cherry juice and bitters. Squeeze in juice of lemon and add rind. Stir to chill. Add club soda to taste. Stir once. Garnish with a couple of maraschino cherries and serve.

[recipe_title]Lemon Brandy[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Wedge of lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Bitter lemon soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon geranium leaf (optional)[/drinkRecipe]

Pour brandy over ice cubes in an 8-oz. highball glass. Squeeze in juice of lime, adid rind. Stir. Fill with bitter lemon soda and garnish with lightly bruised lemon geranium leaf, if you have it.

[recipe_title]Cool Brandy[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. white créme de menthe[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake ingredients vigorously with ice until well chilled. Strain into cocktail glass, or over fresh ice in an old fashioned glass.

[recipe_title]Goldfinger[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. apricot liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Fresh pineapple stick (optional)[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients except the pineapple garnish with cracked ice until cold. Strain into cocktail glass, or over ice in an old fashioned glass. Decorate with stick of fresh pineapple.

[recipe_title]Bubbly Brandy Bowl[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 lemons[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 oranges[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 can (20 ozs.) pineapple chunks[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle medium-dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle California champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Peel 1 lemon and 1 orange in long spirals. Squeeze juice from fruits to make 1/3 cup lemon juice, 3/4 cup orange juice. Combine juices, peel, undrained pineapple chunks, brandy and white wine. Stir. Cover and refrigerate to chill. When ready to serve, pour over a chunk of ice or ice cubes in a 4-qt. punch bowl. Add the champagne. Stir once. Dip a bit of the fruit into each portion when serving.

[recipe_title]California Sunset[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 to 2 teaspoons grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

This drink is popular at the Chart House in Malibu and J. P. Kelly's in San Francisco, among other places. It's simply a Brandydriver with a spot of grenadine. Pour brandy and orange juice over ice cubes in an 8-oz. highball glass. Stir. Add grenadine, but don't stir. Just let the grenadine settle through the drink.

California brandy is coming your way--if it hasn't already. Bank of America economists, who are supposed to know about these things, predict consumption will double again in the next ten years. We'll drink to that.

*Use maraschino syrup, if you can find it, or maraschino liqueur may be substituted for the juice. You may want to reduce the quantity if you use the syrup, as it's more concentrated.