Vodka!

As recently as 1950, vodka was an obscure spirit, lumped with such esoterics as Yan Sum Luk Bak, in the catchall "specialties" category. Today, vodka stands alone, at the top of the liquor charts, ahead of bourbon, blended whiskey, Scotch, gin, Canadian--all the long-reigning favorites.

(continued on page 228)Vodka!(continued from page 109)

At first, bemused whiskey moguls dismissed vodka as a passing fad. How could anything without distinctive character, aroma, taste and color be taken seriously? Ironically, it was the total absence of personality that was, and is, the secret of vodka's unprecedented success. It's the ultimate mixer, possessing a chameleon-like ability to lose itself in any blend--so that a screwdriver tastes orange, a bloody mary is tomato and a bull shot, a muscular consommé. Very easy to like.

For many years, this unique property was attributed to filtering through "mountains of activated charcoal," whatever that might be. Brands vied with one another as to the quantity and type of charcoal in their process. Then one fine day, the Feds removed the charcoal requirement and most distillers quietly abandoned its use.

In view of the sharp turnaround, it's fair to ask whether today's vodka is the same as it used to be. And the answer is no--it's better! With 25 years of practical experience, producers have refined their procedures and developed technical equipment that yields an amazingly clean, uniform product through distillation alone. It's just about the purest spirit you can buy.

Not that there's anything like unanimity on methods. Smirnoff, by far the leading vodka, is the only major label that still charcoals. It's hard to quarrel with that kind of success--nevertheless, other brands do. Gordon's, number two and trying, claims a patent on smoothness, achieved with nitrogen gas. Gilbey's insists it's the driest. Wolfschmidt is put through a sophisticated, six-column still to remove unwanted congeners, including acetates, aldehydes, fusel oils and acids. Schenley employs a vacuum column that turns out an extremely high proof and a very clean distillate. And so it goes. Although arguments wax heavy, and at times hot, they are largely academic. Whatever differences exist among national brands, they are barely detectable by chemical analysis and well-nigh impossible to perceive in a mixed drink. To give you an idea of just how refined vodka must be, spirits that do not pass muster as vodka may be used in blended whiskeys, cordials and, conceivably, gin.

There is agreement among American vodka makers on one point--imports. If you want to see the laws of gravity abrogated, tell a distiller that foreign vodkas are superior. He'll go up one wall and down another. Imported goods are not subject to the rigid scrutiny that American distillates are. If they're certified by the country of origin, they are accepted in the U.S. as vodka--and no questions asked. It is not uncommon in Europe to add a touch of sugar, a tot of cognac-lees extract or, some say, a trace of glycerin to "smooth out" the raw spirit. And since the European techniques aren't as precise as the domestic, the end product is apt to be not as neutral coming off the still. So if some codger tells you vodka in the old country tasted different, believe him.

European countries offer a wide variety of flavored vodkas. The Soviets market upwards of 25 different types, in addition to clear Stolichnaya. The most interesting example available Stateside is the peppery Pertsovka, which makes a tingly bloody mary--and hold the Tabasco, Charley. Poland's Polmos Zubrowka, companion to the clear Wyborowa, is an enchanting vodka, with the scent of new-mown hay and a hint of almonds in its bouquet. The flavor and greenish tint come from steeping with Polish buffalo grass. Each bottle carries a length of grass, but that single blade is not the source of the aroma.

There are American flavored vodkas, too--all on the sweet side. Tvarscki is among the most versatile in this group, with ten offerings: lemon, lime, apple, cherry, et al. Its clear vodka is well regarded, too.

If the notion of flavored vodkas turns you on, it's no problem to make your own. They're a nice addition to your bar and make distinctive gifts. Recipes for do-it-yourself vodka steeps and a roundup of ingratiating drinks follow.

[recipe_title]Sloe Comfortable Screw[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. sloe gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Southern Comfort[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

Pour over ice in 8-oz. glass. Stir. Garnish with lemon slice, if desired.

[recipe_title]Roman Tonic[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Wedge lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Campari[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Tonic water, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Squeeze juice of lime into tall glass with ice; drop in rind. Add vodka, Campari and 5 ozs. tonic water (1/2 bottle) or to taste. Stir.

[recipe_title]All Right Jack[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Yukon Jack[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice lime[/drinkRecipe]

Pour Yukon Jack and vodka over ice in old fashioned glass. Stir well. Add fruit slices and serve.

[recipe_title]Vodka A La Russe[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Stolichnaya Russian Vodka, ice cold[/drinkRecipe]

Pour about an ounce at a time into liqueur glasses or thimble-size silver cups and toss off neat--in the Russian manner. Authentic accompaniments are caviar, herring and smoked fish.

[recipe_title]Irish Mule[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Guinness Stout, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour vodka and Guinness into chilled mug. The 6-1/3-oz. Guinness nip is about the right size.

[recipe_title]Lara's Love[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Lillet[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. framboise[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Club soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange slice[/drinkRecipe]

Stir first three ingredients with ice. Strain into wineglass. Add light splash of club soda and garnish with orange slice. Stir once.

[recipe_title]Orange-Steeped Vodka[/recipe_title]

Remove peel from medium-size navel orange, taking orange part only. If you keep the peel in one piece, it's more attractive but doesn't affect the flavor. Add peel to bottle--you may have to pour off a little vodka to make room. It should show color in a day and be quite fragrant after three or four days' steeping. Use in screwdrivers, gimlets, sours, with citrus-flavored sodas.

[recipe_title]Saucy Mary[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. clam--tomato juice cocktail, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon prepared horseradish Pinch thyme[/drinkRecipe]

Few grains each garlic powder and salt.

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into 8-oz. goblet. Garnish with lemon slice.

[recipe_title]Don's Early Light[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon banana cordial[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. orange juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients over ice in tall glass. Stir well to chill. Garnish with fresh fruit, if desired.

[recipe_title]Limelight[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. apricot cordial[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon Rose's Lime Juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

Stir all ingredients with ice. Strain into two cocktail glasses.

[recipe_title]Dawson Special[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. crème de cacao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Instant-coffee granules[/drinkRecipe]

Pour first three ingredients over ice in highball glass. Stir. Sprinkle lightly with instant coffee and serve.

[recipe_title]Schnapps Whizzer[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. peppermint schnapps[/drinkRecipe]

Pour over ice in small old fashioned glass. Stir well. Garnish with mint sprigs or lemon slice.

[recipe_title]Bog Buster[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. curaçao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. cranberry-juice cocktail, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour over ice in tall glass. Stir well. Garnish with slice of lime.

[recipe_title]Black Snow[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Wyborowa Polish Vodka, out of the freezer[/drinkRecipe]

Pour into small, tulip-shaped stemmed glass (a sherry copita is perfect). Grind fresh black pepper over--about one turn of the pepper mill. The pepper flakes will float lazily down in the glass--supported by the slightly thickened icy vodka.

[recipe_title]The Godson[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Amaretto cordial[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients with ice. Pour unstrained into old fashioned glass. Garnish with canned apricot half.

[recipe_title]Pepper Vodka[/recipe_title]

Steep 2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns in a bottle of vodka for about a week. The more pungent the pepper, the zestier the vodka. Use in bloody marys, bull shots and bloody bulls.

[recipe_title]Lemon-Smooth Vodka[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 large lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 quart vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]5 or 6 drops glycerin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch salt[/drinkRecipe]

Remove peel from lemon, taking yellow part only. Add to bottle of vodka--you may have to pour a little off to make room. Add glycerin and salt. Let stand three or four days, until vodka has taken on lemon flavor. Present in ice jacket and serve neat or pour over ice in small old fashioned glass.

Breathes there a man, with soul so dead, who never to himself hath said, "I can whomp up a better drink than this with my hands tied"? Well, you probably can--better, certainly, to your taste. And that's the beauty of vodka; anyone can. So start whomping!