Morning Glories!

Happy New Year? With a mouth full of feathers? A vise around your head? And your mother phoning from Little Falls, promptly at eight A.M., to be sure of catching you in? Bah, humbug! Well, all right. You can sit around like the senior sufferer at a masochists' convention--or do something constructive, such as fixing yourself a soothing, settling spiked-coffee reviver. Most highly touted hangover remedies are evil-tasting, bitter and punishing, on the plausible theory that anything so bad has to be good for you. Coffee grogs are different--bracing, (continued on page 188) morning glories! (continued from page 185) invigorating ... and delicious! You know what a cup of Java does for you in the morning. Apparently, the synergistic interaction of caffeine and alcohol both accentuates and accelerates the salutary effect.

Possibly the original, certainly the most notable of the exuberant brews is Irish Coffee: "Cream rich as an Irish brogue / coffee strong as a friendly hand / sugar as sweet as the tongue of a rogue / whiskey smooth as the wit of the land." The whiskey here is Irish, no doubt about that, but amiable spiked coffees can be made with almost any alcoholic beverage (except, perhaps, vodka, which, being tasteless, contributes nothing). Some are fanciful concoctions calling for three or four spirits, along with other flavorings and spices; some are flamed; a few, chilled. Many are as simple and straight-forward as adding a dram of one's favorite nip to a cup of coffee: Café Strega; Café Cointreau; Café Allegro; Tuaca Coffee; Amaretto Coffee; Kentucky or Tennessee Coffee (bourbon); Irish Mister (Irish Mist); Nepenthe Coffee (Metaxa); Venetian Coffee (California brandy); Calypso Coffee (Jamaican rum). There's even a Yiddish Coffee, made with Israeli brandy, at Ginsberg's Dublin Pub--one of those relentlessly cute jobs that seem to bloom in San Francisco.

It's quite evident that coffee and spirits are a most compatible combination. Use a light hand with the liquor until you find your level--heat intensifies the impact of the booze. You can always add more to the cup or pour another.

The coffee should be fresh, strong-- and, preferably, brewed. However, freshly made instant coffee is better than brewed that has been around a while, especially if it requires reheating. Cold drinks may call for extra-strong coffee, because of the dilution from ice. One way around that problem is to use ice cubes made from coffee.

Spirited coffees need a bit of sweetening, even if you customarily take your coffee black and bitter. Those made with liqueurs may not need additional sugar. The flavored instant coffees, a relatively new development, lend themselves admirably to mixing with spirits--and they're handy. They're almost all pre-sweetened, so don't add sugar before tasting.

Coffee grogs are simply too good to reserve for one day of the year. Enjoy them any time--after skiing, skating or tobogganing--and certainly on New Year's Day. Serve with Stollen, panet-tone or Lebkuchen and you're ready for all comers!

[recipe_title]Caffe Freddo[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Strong coffee, frozen into ice cubes[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. coffee liqueur or coffee-flavored brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. anisette[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 scoop coffee ice cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Finely powdered espresso[/drinkRecipe]

Freeze coffee in ice-cube tray, in advance. When preparing drink, finely crush 6 cubes and place in blender. Add liqueurs and ice cream. Blend at highest speed. Pour into chilled large parfait glass. Sprinkle lightly with powdered espresso. Serve with spoon, as the drink may come up fairly viscous, depending on your blender.

[recipe_title]Banana Soother[/recipe_title]

(Serves three)

[drinkRecipe]1 ripe banana[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 cups cold strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 pint chocolate ice cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon Rose's Lime Juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. créme de cacao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. banana liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cocoa powder[/drinkRecipe]

Cut banana in chunks. Place in blender with all other ingredients except cocoa powder. Blend until just smooth. Pour into prechilled ice-cream-parlor glasses. Dust each serving with cocoa powder or pulverized coffee.

[recipe_title]Cafe Helvetia[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Mocha-flavored instant coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Boiling water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. kirsch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. amaretto[/drinkRecipe]

Prepare cup of coffee, following package directions, but make it a bit more robust than suggested--using more powder or less water. Stir well to dissolve mixture completely. Add kirsch and amaretto. Stir and serve.

Note: Most flavored coffees contain sugar; taste before adding more. Garnish with whipped cream or whipped topping, if desired.

Making this drink is quite a production at Monsignore II in New York City. We've simplified the procedure somewhat for home use, but the result is the same-- delicious!

[recipe_title]Monsignore II[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. cognac, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 roasted coffee beans[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot double-strength coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 small scoop vanilla ice cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Kahlúa[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Whipped cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. green créme de menthe[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Finely powdered espresso[/drinkRecipe]

Use fairly heavy 10-oz. stemmed goblet. Moisten upper part of outside (about 3/4 in.) with lemon wedge; moisten upper part of inside with cognac. Invert glass and swirl in sugar to frost inside and outside edges. Add coffee beans and warmed cognac to glass. Ignite cognac with long match or tilt glass toward flame, rotating it until the cognac catches fire. Continue turning glass until all sugar caramelizes and flames burn out. Half-fill glass with coffee, add ice cream by spoonfuls, and then Kahlúa. Top with whipped cream and slowly pour créme de menthe over it. Sprinkle with powdered espresso.

This is the original and authentic recipe for Irish Coffee, created by Joe Sheridan at Shannon Airport and brought to the attention of a grateful public by San Francisco's famed Buena Vista Café. Good Irish pubs such as Neary's in Dublin don't beat the cream. They use heavy farm cream, not available here, and simply float a thick collar on the brew.

[recipe_title]Irish Coffee[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 small sugar cubes[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/8 ozs. Irish whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Heavy cream, lightly beaten[/drinkRecipe]

Preheat Irish Coffee glass by filling with very hot water; let stand several minutes, then empty. Fill glass three fourths full with coffee; add sugar; stir. Add whiskey and top with generous portion of cream. The cream should not be whipped, just lightly beaten, then poured over back of teaspoon into glass. Do not stir. The idea is to sip hot coffee through cool cream.

[recipe_title]Tiburon Fog Cutter[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. créme de cacao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip orange peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strong coffee, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Pour orange liqueur and créme de cacao over cracked ice in highball glass. Add twist each orange peel and lemon peel. Add coffee; stir. Serve with straw.

[recipe_title]Cafe Matador[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 strips lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 strip orange peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-in. piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. Lepanto, Gran Duque D' Alba or other premium Spanish brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

Rub piece lemon peel around inside rim of old fashioned glass; discard peel.

(concluded on page 204)Morning Glories(continued from page 188)

Invert glass and swirl in sugar to coat. Tap off excess. Twist lemon and orange peels over glass and drop in. Add 1 teaspoon sugar and cinnamon and set teaspoon in glass. Warm brandy in ladle or small measuring cup. Ignite and pour into glass, flaming. Add coffee; stir. Taste for sugar.

[recipe_title]New Year's Frost[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. añejo rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. chocolate-mint liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. cold strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon orgeat syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Mint sprig[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients over ice in burgundy balloon glass. Stir. Garnish with mint sprig.

[recipe_title]Kentucky Today[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 drops vanilla extract[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon butter[/drinkRecipe]

To hot mug, add bourbon, sugar, coffee, cinnamon and vanilla. Stir. Taste for sugar. Top with butter and serve.

[recipe_title]Cafe Charentais[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 or 3 cardamom pods[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Milk or cream[/drinkRecipe]

Split cardamom pods and empty seeds into cup. Bruise seeds by pressing with back of spoon. Add other ingredients; stir.

This is a house specialty at The Proud Bird Restaurant in Los Angeles.

[recipe_title]Coffee With Love[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Whipped cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Finely ground coffee[/drinkRecipe]

Pour brandy, triple sec and coffee into preheated mug or large cup. Add sugar; stir. Top with good dollop whipped cream and sprinkle with ground coffee.

[recipe_title]Asbach Coffee[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Asbach Uralt brandy, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sugar to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Whipped cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Grated unsweetened chocolate[/drinkRecipe]

Add warmed brandy and sugar to large cup. Ignite and allow to burn for half minute. Add coffee; stir and taste. Top with whipped cream and sprinkle with chocolate.

[recipe_title]Mulberry Street[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. hot espresso[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon Sambuca Romana[/drinkRecipe]

Twist lemon peel over demitasse and drop into cup. Add espresso and Sambuca; stir. Taste before adding sugar-- the liqueur is quite sweet.

[recipe_title]Monterey Mist[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Strip lemon peel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strong coffee, frozen into ice cubes[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. créme de cacao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. apricot liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. créme de almond[/drinkRecipe]

Twist lemon peel over champagne coupe or large cocktail glass and drop in. Finely crush coffee cubes and pack into prepared glass, mounding top. Combine liqueurs and pour over coffee ice. Plant short straws and serve.

[recipe_title]Kaiser Kaffee[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. hot strong coffee[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Whipped cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Grated unsweetened chocolate[/drinkRecipe]

Pour brandy and coffee into 8-oz. cup. Add sugar; stir. Add whipped cream and top with chocolate.

The Prophet Mohammed allegedly stated, "After drinking coffee, I can lift 40 men out of the saddle--and teach 40 women the meaning of love." Imagine what he could have done after spiked coffee.