Gin Types

A supercilious British bromide informs us that "Summer was made for gin." But so were autumn, winter and spring. Despite gin's identification with the martini and gin and tonic, it happens to be a gregarious mixer--a spirit for all seasons.

Federal standards describe gin as neutral spirits redistilled with, or over, juniper berries and other aromatics, reduced at time of bottling to no less than 80 proof. In other words, diluted, herb-scented, highly refined alcohol.

Today, virtually all gin is London Dry, which is neither a specific formula nor a geographic appellation but a style of gin that's crisp, clean, buoyant, discreetly fragrant. The term London Dry is best understood in relation to the original Hollands or Genever gin--a pungent, earthy, rooty, aggressively flavored product customarily taken ice-cold, neat, in one gulp.

Franciscus de la Boe, a professor at the University of Leiden in Holland, is credited with formulating the first gin some 300 years ago. Noting that wines infused with juniper berries were popular at the French court, he applied the practice to distilled spirits, naming the resultant brew genièvre, French for juniper, thus acknowledging its Gallic connection. British troops fighting in the Low Countries discovered that a slug of this aromatic potion before the fracas miraculously transformed them into John Waynes, and they took the Dutch courage back to England, anglicizing genièvre to gin en route.

Old Tom, a lightly sweetened gin popular in 18th Century England, has earned a niche in merchandising history as the first vending-machine spirit. An ingenious device consisting of a wooden sign in the form of a black cat was nailed below the window of a tavern. The customer deposited one or two pence in the cat's mouth and put his lips to a pipe under the cat's paw. The publican, inside, then poured a jolt of gin through the pipe and on down the customer's gullet. One need not be a philologist to see the origin of such colloquialisms as feeding the kitty and cat's paw. Although extremely scarce, Old Tom gin is available today under the Booth's label. You wouldn't want to use Old Tom in a martini, but it makes a smashing Collins; just hold the sugar. Another distinctive type is the Frisian gin. Doornkaat, from northern Germany. It's mildly flavored--just a light lacing of juniper--seeming to bridge the gap between standard gins and vodka. The Frisians still observe their curious custom of offering a welcome drink of iced Doornkaat in a round-bowled pewter spoon.

Part of gin's attraction is the subtle sensory shading among the various bottlings. Seagram, for example, markets four distinct brands, each with a different taste, different appeal and different sales position. The lightest is Calvert, designed to compete with Fleischmann's--perhaps the leading light gin. Seagram's Extra Dry is aimed at Gordon's gin--number one in the country. Both hit the middle ranges, with Seagram's being a touch mellower. Burnett's White Satin is quite full--taking on richly fragrant, somewhat perfumy Gilbey's gin. Seagram's entry in the import category is Boodles. But this one has quite a way to go before it can challenge Beefeater, the lead horse in the premium-gin race, or Tanqueray--number two and coming up very fast.

As a rule, British gins are more pungent, intense and full-flavored--and not quite so clean as the native product. British distillers say, "You want to leave something in the spirit to hang the botanicals on." American gins are lighter and crisper, with a muted juniper flavor, as well as more orange, lime and lemon accents. They're lower in proof, too. Schenley Extra Dry and Booth's High & Dry are among the few national brands holding at the traditional 90 proof. The others are descending to 80 proof, the minimum permitted. These lighter gins are conducive to drinking on the rocks or with tonic--and that's how lots of folks are taking them now.

However, the martini is still the king of cocktails and every bartender claims the secret of the ultimate mart: a dash of orange bitters, a few drops of Scotch, replacing vermouth with dry sherry, rinsing the glass with Pernod or curaçao or kirsch. The real secret is simple--make it cold, frosty, glacial. When the liquid hits the ice, you want to hear a cr-r-racking sound, like an iceberg sundering. Serve it up, in a prechilled cocktail glass, never on the rocks! Then take a long sip; and if you've done it right, you'll feel an exquisite, electric tingle. That's a martini!

[recipe_title]Martinez Cocktail[/recipe_title]

Alleged to be the original version of the martini, conceived by Professor Jerry Thomas to comfort a parched traveler on his way to Martinez. Imbibe at your peril.

[drinkRecipe]1 dash bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes maraschino liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pony Old Tom gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 wineglass sweet vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 small lumps ice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients thoroughly and strain into large cocktail glass. Garnish with quarter slice lemon. "If the guest prefers it very sweet, add 2 dashes gum syrup."

[recipe_title]Electric Martini[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon dry vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon kirsch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon framboise[/drinkRecipe]

Have everything frigid! That means all spirits, mixing glass and cocktail glasses. Have your ice hard frozen. Quickly stir all ingredients with ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Sip and tingle!

[recipe_title]Pussy Collins[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Old Tom gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Club soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Shake gin, triple sec and lemon juice briskly with ice. Strain over fresh ice in highball glass. Add soda to taste; stir once. Garnish with cherry and half slice orange.

[recipe_title]Gimlet Surprise[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly. Pour over ice in old fashioned glass. Decorate with lime slice, if you like.

[recipe_title]Club Tonic[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]Wedge lime[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Booth's or other light gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. tonic water, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. club soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Squeeze lime over ice in highball glass; drop peel in. Add gin; stir. Add tonic and soda; stir once.

[recipe_title]Southampton Swizzle[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. crème de menthe[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon anisette[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients over ice in collins glass. Stir well; serve with straws.

[recipe_title]Bunny Hug[recipe_title]

A Prohibition drink with an inviting name. Substitute Pernod or anisette for the absinthe--which is unobtainable. Also illegal.

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. absinthe[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Twist lemon peel over, if desired.

[recipe_title]Silver Bullet[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. kummel[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients with ice. Strain into cocktail glass or over ice in old fashioned glass.

[recipe_title]Bloodstone[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Rosso Antico[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. dry white wine[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients over ice in wineglass; stir. Add orange twist and serve.

For most of its turbulent history, gin has been attacked as the inspiration for debauchery, bacchanalian revels and permissive conduct. Which should solidify its position with all sensible types.