A Proper Picnic

The Empire is Crumbling, the pound is slipping and Twiggy is positively zaftig, but one thing will never change--the British knack with a picnic. Conceivably, the outing in the country has its genesis in the plowman's lunch, hearty victuals packed for field hands who worked too far from the manor to return for their midday repast. But it wasn't until the early 19th Century, when a group of London bucks formed the Picnic Society, that the word picnic came into fashion.

British picnics come in all sizes and prices. For some, the only way is to park the Bentley outside Fortnum's or Harrods long enough for the chauffeur to fetch a yard of smoked salmon, a bucket of Iranian caviar and magnums of chilled Moët or Grand Siècle--the bare necessities. Then it's off to Glyndebourne, Ascot, Epsom (if it's Derby day) and other centers of prestigious alfresco dining.

Unlike the barbecue, the luau or the fête champêtre, traditional English picnic fare is a cold collation. Mr. Pepys wanted no more than "some bottles of wine and beer and some cold fowl," but the gamut runs through game pies, York ham, Cornish pasties, potted shrimps or lobster, smoked fish, bangers and Coleman's mustard, chicken, partridge, pheasant, wild duck, Scotch eggs, pickled eggs and pickled walnuts to stilton, cheddar and cheshire cheeses nibbled with Jacob's water biscuits or whole-meal rolls and crisp Cox's orange pippins. And if there's a finer dessert than fresh strawberries from a local farm, heaped with Devonshire cream, the English don't care to know about it.

A fitted wicker picnic basket is a stalwart companion any time you make for a day in the meadow; but when you're dining outdoors à la Blighty, it's a must. You'll also want a lightweight insulated chest to transport perishables and a vacuum bottle or two for iced drinks. Champagne, beer and white wine require icing if you're traveling any distance. One needn't risk the heirloom crystal, but handsome china, silverware and serving pieces are customary--and any decent bubbly deserves a slender flute or tulip champagne glass. There's no better table than a damask cloth spread sur I'herbe. Before battening down, check off the don't-forgets: salt, pepper, can opener, bottle opener, corkscrew, ice cubes, paring knife, bread knife, plastic bags for refuse, catsup, mustard, chutney--whatever condiments are called for. And do heed John Milton's admonition: "Accuse not Nature, she hath don her part; Do thou but thine."

[recipe_title]Vegetable Nibbles, Savory Dip[/recipe_title]

Tiny baby Brussels sprouts, young asparagus tips, young green beans, cherry tomatoes, celery sticks, radishes, young scallions, zucchini strips, thinly sliced white turnip, cucumber sticks, cauliflower and broccoli florets.

Trim and clean vegetables. Cut into bite-size pieces where necessary. Pack in plastic bags and keep chilled.

[recipe_title]Savory Dip[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 cup sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup yoghurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced dill[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. blue cheese, crumbled[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, to taste[/recipe]

Combine sour cream and yoghurt in bowl. Crush garlic in press and add to bowl, along with other ingredients. Mix and chill. Serve with vegetable nibbles.

[recipe_title]Cornish Pasties[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 package piecrust mix[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 lb. top round steak, pounded thin and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup diced raw potato (small dice)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 medium onion, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon nutmeg[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water[/recipe]

Prepare piecrust according to package directions. Chill. Combine meat, potato, onion, seasonings and parsley. Roll out piecrust and cut into six rounds, each about 6-in. diameter (use saucer or small plate as cutting guide). Put generous portion of meat mixture on half of each round. Brush edge of round with beaten egg, fold pastry over and press edges together to seal. Cut small opening in top crust and brush surface with beaten egg. Bake in preheated 400° F. oven for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350° F. and bake 30 minutes more.

[recipe_title]Scotch Eggs[/recipe_title]

[recipe]6 hard-cooked eggs, chilled and shelled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. sausage meat[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large egg, lightly beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]Dry bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Oil or shortening[/recipe]

Grab handful of sausage meat and pat thin. Roll around an egg, sealing tightly. Dust with flour, dip in beaten egg and roll in crumbs. Repeat with all eggs, then chill so breading sets. Fry in hot deep fat, about 385° F., until sausage is browned and cooked through. Serve with mustard and gherkins.

[recipe_title]Round Table Salad[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 cups diced, cooked turkey[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup diced smoked tongue[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup diced smoked ham[/recipe]

[recipe]3-4 tablespoons vinaigrette dressing[/recipe]

[recipe]2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup water chestnuts, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup pitted ripe olives, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup celery, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons minced parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup mayonnaise, approximately[/recipe]

[recipe]Tomatoes, grapes[/recipe]

Toss turkey, tongue and ham with vinaigrette, to moisten. Fold in eggs, water chestnuts, olives, celery and parsley. Add 3 or 4 healthy grinds black pepper. Pack into plastic containers and keep cool. Blend with mayonnaise before serving. Add salt, if necessary. Garnish plates with tomato quarters and small bunches of grapes.

[recipe_title]Potted Shrimps[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. cooked shrimps, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dashes Tabasco, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon mace[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon, optional[/recipe]

The tiny, tender West Coast bay shrimps are best; otherwise, use smallest size available. If shrimps are really tiny, leave them whole; if not, put through medium blade of food grinder. Melt butter in skillet. Add shrimps, Tabasco, garlic powder, mace and salt. Bring to simmer, but do not boil. Taste, remembering that seasoning will be muted when cold. Lift shrimps into small crocks or ramekins, sprinkle lightly with lemon, if you like. Heat butter until it foams and skim. Pour over shrimps, so that all pieces are covered. When cool, seal tightly with plastic wrap or foil. Will keep at least one week in refrigerator. Serve with thinly sliced black bread and crisp radishes.

[recipe_title]Potted Cheese[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. aged cheddar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup chopped chives[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon Pommery mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter, softened[/recipe]

Grate cheese. Toss with curry powder and chives. Blend gradually with mustard, cognac and butter. Stir until smooth and spreadable, adding more butter, mustard or a little cream, if necessary. Pack into crocks or ramekins. Seal tightly with plastic wrap or foil. Store in refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving--with whole-meal rolls, French bread or plain crackers.

[recipe_title]Strawberries "Devonshire"[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 pint small ripe strawberries, washed and hulled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup strawberry liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz. container whipped cream cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Brown sugar[/recipe]

Sprinkle strawberries with liqueur. Chill. Stir cream cheese to soften. Gradually beat in cream until smooth. To serve, spoon "Devonshire" cream over berries. Sprinkle lightly with brown sugar, as desired.

[recipe_title]Hock Cup[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle fruity white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]12 ozs. Amontillado sherry[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (28 ozs.) club soda[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemons[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]Cucumber[/recipe]

This is best made at the picnic site. The wines and soda should be chilled. Combine in pitcher, adding soda last. Garnish each serving with thin slice lemon and slice cucumber.

[recipe_title]Claret Cup[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 2 oranges[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. ruby port[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[recipe]Sugar, to taste[/recipe]

[drinkRecipe]Club soda, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemons, oranges, sliced[/drinkRecipe]

Wine and soda should be chilled. Combine first 5 ingredients. Taste. Add sugar. To serve, pour over ice in glass or cup. Top with splash of soda. Stir. Garnish with slice each lemon and orange.

[recipe_title]Balaklava Charge[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Pimm's [/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. Schweppes Bitter Lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice lime, sprig mint[/drinkRecipe]

Over ice in 8-oz. highball glass, pour Pimm's and vodka; stir. Add bitter lemon, stir once. Garnish with lime slice and mint sprig.

No proper British picnic begins without a choice of beverages. Champagne is traditional, but a good vin mousseux or a California sparkler may seem more appropriate to the bucolic surroundings. Among the old reliables, there're the Hock Cup, Claret Cup, Pimm's and pink gin, plus beer, ale, hard cider and spiked lemonade. Ah, the British; when they plan a picnic--it's a picnic.