Iviva Tacos!

Transcripts of the Watergate tapes introduced this nation of budding gourmets to the phrase big enchilada. As a guide to Mexico's gastronomic invasion of America del norte, it's about as reliable as other pronouncements of Ehrlichman, Haldeman, Mitchell and company. The fact is, in the hierarchy of nosherai fording the Rio Grande, the big enchilada is the taco! There are other aspirants--tostadas, tostaditas, nachos, chilaquiles, chalupas, quesadillas, empanadas, tamales, flautas and burritos--but tacos are número uno. They're hawked at Chapultepec park and the Floating Gardens, at bullfights, charreadas, roadside stands--even beside shrines--and offered at practically all eateries.

For the uninitiated, tacos are simply tortillas, thin corn-meal pancakes, rolled around some savory filling--and it's likely that the original taco was filled with locusts, fingerlings, maguey worms, lizard, thrush, iguana and other delicacies of pre-Cortes Mexico. These days, the preference is more toward beef, lamb, refried beans, chorizo (sausage) or leftover chicken mole, rolled in a fresh tortilla--with maybe a squirt of Salsa Roja (see following recipes) for chic. Extra Salsa, well-seasoned salad vegetables and an incandescent red-pepper sauce that could heat Cleveland for a week are usual accompaniments.

Gringo tacos are much more of a production, particularly in California, where they're beginning to rival hamburgers as snack items. The filling--chicken, pork or ground beef--merely lays the base for a glorious array of garnitures heaped in a crisp taco shell. Among the options are shredded lettuce, grated cheese, minced onion, chopped ripe tomatoes, pimiento strips, chopped ripe or green olives, guacamole or diced avocado, sliced radish, cilantro, bacon, chopped green chilies and, on occasion, exotica like nopalitos (baby cactus joints) or tomatillos (tiny ground tomatoes)--as well as a variety of moistenings, from sour cream to Salsa Cruda (see following recipes). Almost anything goes on a taco!

To accommodate this largess, the tortilla is fried and folded over into a U shape, forming a large, crunchy pocket known as a shell. Tortillas are generally made from masa--corn kernels steeped in limewater to loosen the skins, then ground into a fine meal. The masa is mixed with water, nothing else--no salt, shortening or leavening--formed into flat pancakes, then baked quickly on an ungreased griddle. At one time, the rhythmic patapat of the tortillera shaping the dough between her palms was the mesmerizing beat of Mexico. Today, however, Mexicans are apt to pick up tortillas, along with other groceries, at the market.

Tortillas come frozen, canned or refrigerated in plastic packs. They're not the same as those fresh, hot off the griddle, but they're palatable. The canned are brittle and don't roll well but are acceptable for taco shells. To make crisp taco shells, fry soft tortillas in medium-hot oil (lard in Mexico) 30 seconds to one minute each side, then bend and hold in a U shape with tongs or chopsticks. Fry until firm. Drain on paper towels. The shells become crisper as they cool.

Prepared taco shells, made on a special form, are widely available and they're fine. Many restaurants and taco joints use prepared shells--and it makes sense for home cooks, too. Sauces are another story. Sauces made from recipes given here are much better than the canned, and not at all difficult. Like curry, chili powder is a blend of spices--basically ground hot and mild chilies, cumin seed, oregano and garlic--with coriander, allspice and cloves added at the whim of individual packers. Contrary to the common impression, it is not a hot mixture, cumin supplying the dominant aroma. Fresh and canned chilies run a gamut of firepower. Anaheims are mildish; anchos, stronger; jalapeños caliente and pequins will send you to the moon. In deference to northern palates, we've used a relatively light hand with peppers in the recipes that follow. Add more if you like hot stuff. íOlé!

[recipe_title]Tacos De Puerco[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3/4 lb. lean roast pork, shredded (about 3 cups)[/recipe]

[recipe]Oil or shortening[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1--2 tablespoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon fennel seed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon aged tequila[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (or parsley)[/recipe]

[recipe]Tortillas[/recipe]

[recipe]Salsa Roja[/recipe]

[recipe]Salsa Cruda[/recipe]

[recipe]Guacamole or chopped avocado[/recipe]

Sauté pork in about 2 tablespoons hot oil, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Meanwhile, mash garlic with salt and combine with chili powder and fennel. Stir into browned pork; cook about 5 minutes. Add vinegar, tequila and cilantro; cook until just heated through. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in another skillet and fry tortillas about 15 seconds on each side, just to soften. As each is ready, spoon some Salsa Roja across, a little off center, add a couple of good spoonfuls of pork mixture and roll up. Place, seam down, in shallow pan. When all tacos are rolled up, heat in 375° oven for about 10 minutes, until shells begin to crisp. Serve with Salsa Cruda, guacamole and more Salsa Roja.

[recipe_title]Super Taco[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. lean ground beef[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. chorizo or Italian sausage[/recipe]

[recipe]1 4-oz. can pimiento, cut in thin strips[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons chopped green olives[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano or marjoram[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]Salsa Roja, about l/2 cup--to moisten[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Taco shells, warmed[/recipe]

[recipe]Garnishes[/recipe]

Remove casing from sausage and crumble. Lightly brown beef and sausage meat in large skillet, stirring to break up meat. Skim off fat, if necessary. Add pimiento, olives and spices and combine. Stir in enough sauce to moisten mixture, but don't make it soggy or your taco will drip. If filling seems too moist, simmer to reduce liquid. Taste for seasoning--salt may not be necessary. Spoon filling into taco shells and serve with array of garnishes so people can add as they choose: shredded lettuce, chopped sweet onion, chopped hot or mild chilies, minced cilantro, shredded jack or Münster cheese, Salsa Cruda, Salsa Xochitl and extra Salsa Roja.

Note: As a final touch, El Charro's Chef Vidal fries garlic in olive oil, adds a little wine and a nip of tequila. When cooked down, he inverts the pan, sauce and all, over the taco filling--letting the good smells permeate the mixture.

[recipe_title]Salsa Roja[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 8-oz. can tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons canned chopped green chilies[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, squeezed through press[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2--3 teaspoons chili powder[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (optional)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon salt, or to taste[/recipe]

Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Taste for seasoning; add more salt, chili powder or green chilies, as desired. Bring to simmer before using.

[recipe_title]Salsa Cruda[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. ripe tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup canned chopped green chilies[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size sweet onion, chopped fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon minced cilantro[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, squeezed through press[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch sugar[/recipe]

Peel, seed and chop tomatoes. Combine with other ingredients. Taste and correct seasoning. Those who like it hot can go heavier on the chilies. Stir in a little olive oil, if you like. Let stand 10--15 minutes, so flavors can marry.

Note: You can substitute parsley for the cilantro, but it's not the same.

[recipe_title]Salsa Xochitl[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 cup vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cayenne[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4--1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste[/recipe]

This is a tablecloth burner, which may be why Xochitl, Manhattan's oldest Mexican restaurant, dispenses with cloths. It's muy picante--hotter than the bottled red-pepper sauces--so dash with discretion. To prepare, combine ingredients thoroughly. It will keep for months, refrigerated in covered jar.

In Mexico, tacos are often taken with pulque--a vile ferment derived from the agave or century plant. One of the excellent Mexican beers, dry wine, sangria, lemonade or an icy tequila punch is an appealing alternative.