A Spirited Finale...

in which those lucky stiffs, shields and yarnell, really get their juiced desserts

Great hosts and great entertainers, such as Shields and Yarnell, have one trait in common--they like to close the show with a dynamite finish. For the host, that means a dazzling dessert, something with flair and finesse; in short, a spirited finale. And it needn't be anything more (continued on page 332)Spirited Finale(continued from page 192) complicated than a dollop of whiskey in chocolate mousse, a splash of amaretto in the pumpkin-pie filling, a whisper of crème de menthe over pineapple sherbet or lashing almost any fruit mélange with kirsch. Nevertheless, your horizons will be broader and results more exhilarating when you know the rules of the game.

Newcomers to the art tend to make two basic mistakes. They overpour, on the theory, perhaps, that if a little is good, more will be better. There's also an unfortunate tendency to use inferior brands. ... "After all, it's only for cooking." The fact is that spirits in these recipes are used as seasonings, essentially for their alluring, concentrated flavors and scents, so you want quality. But don't go the snob route and equate quality with imported. Bourbon, for example, is an excellent flavoring agent, not sufficiently appreciated in its homeland.

The compleat host should also learn to handle the range of spirits discriminately, matching tastes and aromas for the most ingratiating effect. This is by no means a cut-and-dried procedure when you consider that chocolate mates amiably with bourbon, brandy, crème de cacao, triple sec, coffee, banana, mandarin and almond liqueurs, crème de menthe, kirsch and all rums and is often enhanced by the piquance of gin, the snap of lemon or the bite of ginger. Other flavors are similarly versatile. Which you elect to pair in any given situation will depend on personal preference, the sensitivity of your perceptions and an awareness of the possibilities--a matter of experience.

We invite you to widen your experience, and your repertoire of rousing desserts, with the recipes given below.

[recipe_title]Eugenie[/recipe_title]

(Eugenie is a specialty of Manhattan's new Délices Côte Basque bakery. An instant success, the bakery supplies several distinguished French restaurants, and there's a waiting list.)

[recipe]1 pint strawberries[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups heavy cream, well chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup confectioner's sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 envelopes unflavored gelatin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. kirsch[/recipe]

Lightly butter 2-quart soufflé dish or round aluminum baking pan. Line bottom of pan with round of waxed paper. Rinse berries quickly, pat dry. Reserve several perfect berries for garnish. Hull remainder, chop coarsely and set aside. Whip cream in chilled bowl, adding sugar gradually. Sprinkle gelatin over water in small saucepan. Place on low heat, stirring, until gelatin is completely dissolved--2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in kirsch. With rubber spatula, scrape mixture into bowl. Quickly add chopped berries and about 1/4 of the whipped cream and mix thoroughly. Gently fold in remaining cream. Spoon into prepared dish. Place in freezer 3 hours, or refrigerate overnight to set. To unmold, run knife around edge. Dip dish quickly in hot-water bath, 2 or 3 times. Cover with flat plate, invert. Lift off wax paper. At this point, Délices blankets the Eugenie in an outer coat of whipped cream, but this is primarily for appearance and can be bypassed. Hull reserved berries; split part way. Spread them and place on top attractively.

Linzer Torte

(One of the great pastry classics, deservedly. A raspberry topping is traditional, but we prefer apricot. Linzer Torte is not particularly difficult. Just remember that chilling makes the dough more manageable and flouring your hands makes it less sticky. The lattice top isn't absolutely necessary, but it looks so sporty.)

[recipe_title]Crust[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 lb. butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup confectioner's sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg yolk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons cognac[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon mace[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup ground almonds Filling[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 cups apricot preserves[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons Rathaus Apricot Brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]Sliced almonds[/recipe]

Have ready 9-in. tart pan or spring-form pan with removable bottom. Preheat oven to 375°. Cream butter with confectioner's sugar. Beat in egg yolk and cognac to make mixture light and fluffy. Combine flour with mace. Add alternately with almonds to butter-sugar mixture. Blend well, but don't overwork pastry; form into ball and chill several hours. Using about 2/3 of pastry, form 1/4 in. crust to cover bottom of pan--and extending extra half inch up sides, making 3/4 in. side wall. Work with floured hands to keep pastry from sticking. Roll remaining pastry 1/4 in. thick between (concluded on page 336) 2 pieces wax paper. Put in freezer. Combine preserves with apricot brandy. Spread evenly over crust. Sprinkle top with sliced almonds. Cut reserved pastry into 1/2 in. strips and make lattice crust across top. Bake 40 minutes. When torte is cool, remove side rim of pan.

Note: Unlike liqueurs or "flavored brandies," Rathaus Apricot Brandy is a true eau de vie--totally dry and fragrant. Substitute a good brandy or cognac if you can't find the Rathaus.

[recipe_title]Brandied Fruit Fantasy[/recip_title]

[recipe]1 pint fresh strawberries[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 ripe fresh pineapple[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tangelos or large Murcott tangerines[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ripe kiwi fruit[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ripe bananas[/recipe]

[recipe]1 Golden Delicious apple[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (1 lb.) guava shells[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup honey, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup kirsch[/recipe]

Mint sprigs or pomegranate

Rinse, hull and halve berries. Peel pineapple, removing eyes and woody core; cut into oblong chunks. Peel tangelos, stripping all white pith. Section and remove pits. Peel kiwi and bananas and slice horizontally. Rinse and core apple, leaving peel on; dice. Drain guava shells and cut up. Combine fruit in large bowl and mix gently. Stir together lime juice, honey and kirsch; stir into fruit. Taste and correct seasoning, if necessary. Cover with plastic wrap and chill about 2 hours. Serve in dessert saucers or coupes, garnishing each portion with sprig mint or spoonful glistening ruby pomegranate seeds, if you can track down a pomegranate.

[recipe_title]Raisin Ricotta Al Liquore[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 ozs. gold label rum[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. amaretto[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup seedless raisins[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. whole-milk ricotta cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup confectioner's sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon finely grated orange rind[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind[/recipe]

[recipe]Chopped pecans[/recipe]

Pour rum and amaretto over raisins and let steep for several hours at room temperature, turning occasionally. Rub ricotta through coarse sieve and beat with sugar until smooth and light; fold in raisin mixture and fruit rinds, mixing thoroughly. Spoon into wineglasses and chill. Sprinkle with nuts before serving.

[recipe_title]Chocolate Luxuro[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 squares (4 ozs.) semisweet chocolate[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. orange liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pint heavy cream, well chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]4 or 5 macaroons, crumbled[recipe]

[recipe]Orange liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1 box (6) chocolate dessert shells[/recipe]

[recipe]Pistachio nuts, chopped[/recipe]

Melt semisweet chocolate with 1 oz. each brandy and orange liqueur in double boiler over hot--not boiling--water. Remove from heat and cool slightly. If chocolate starts to harden, reheat as above. In chilled bowl, beat cream until stiff--but don't overbeat. Fold in melted chocolate, using whisk, if available. Chill 10 minutes. Meanwhile, toss macaroon crumbs with enough orange liqueur to moisten. Place layer of crumbs in each dessert shell. Spoon chocolate mixture over, mounding slightly. Chill until firm. Before serving, garnish each portion generously with nuts.

Note: Chocolate dessert shells are available in specialty food shops and gourmet sections of department stores. You can also use prepared meringue shells in place of chocolate shells.

[recipe_title]Bourbon Truffles[/recipe_title]

(A luscious confection that can be served as an extra dessert or for random nibbling.)

[recipe]3 cups semisweet-chocolate bits[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can sweetened condensed milk[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]Walnuts, finely chopped[/recipe]

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot--not boiling--water; add condensed milk and stir until smooth. Remove from heat and stir in bourbon; chill 2 hours. Shape into 3/4 in. balls and roll in nuts. Chill until firm. The truffles keep well in tightly covered container at room temperature. In fact, the flavor improves after 24 hours.

Spiked desserts are a lift for the psyche as well as the taste buds. They're appropriate any time, of course, but especially welcome during the holidays ... a time for all good spirits.

"Bourbon, for example, is an excellent flavoring agent, not sufficiently appreciated in its homeland."