Feasting Without Fuss

Christmas Dinner, with one's friends circling the festal board, is a close encounter of the tenderest kind. And you want it to be an epicurean extravaganza--a jubilation of the taste buds, an exultation of the senses. But catered affairs are rather impersonal--and the alternative, making yourself a wretched kitchen slavey, defeats the object of a holiday get-together. Seasoned hosts know there's another option--an artfully conceived menu. The one we've created is full of gustatory thrills and luxurious touches with, here and there, an unexpected treat. Preparation is undemanding and much of it can be done well in advance, liberating the host from pesky last-minute chores so he can participate in the revelry and be virtually a guest at his own bash.

The suggested prolog is an arrangement of bivalves, flanked by chilled fino and brut champagne. George Morfogen, seafood buyer at the Grand Central Oyster Bar Restaurant, suggests an assortment from among blue points, box oysters, Chincoteagues, Malpeques, cotuits and cherry-stone or littleneck clams--along with any local specialty such as Olympia oysters on the West Coast. Eight per person is a generous portion. A dab of fresh salmon caviar, a squirt of lime juice and a sting of pepper are all the seasoning you want. Hold the cocktail sauce, please. That's for people who don't really like shellfish.

Our feature attraction, Roast Contre-filet, is a cut better known in France. It's actually boneless short loin--the segment from which strip or shell steaks are taken--and it makes an elegant main dish. You'll find it much simpler to handle than steak, and it can be held in a very low oven for at least 30 minutes while the troops enjoy one last round of drinks. The roast calls for a substantial red wine; a vintage cabernet sauvignon is just right.

Accompany the roast with a Bountiful Pilaf, studded with succulent surprises--and a Christmas relish. What's that? A collage of watermelon pickles and spiced crab apples in holiday hues. Arrange them on a handsome centerpiece and it's a decorative eye catcher, too. Other combinations of red and green--cherry tomatoes and green-pepper fingers or red globe radishes and gherkins--may be added or substituted.

Our salad, of Russian descent, is an interesting change from the predictable tossed greens and doubles as a vegetable and salad course, making the salad plate and fork superfluous.

And for dessert, cinnamonscented Vintner's Pears. They're poached in wine--but it's a simple matter and can be done days before. Complement the fruit with Roquefort Dévice or an assortment of Roquefort, chèvre and aged cheddar. Flout convention and pour a late-harvest California Riesling with this course. You'll score points for spunk and savvy. Have (continued on page 308) Feasting(continued from page 217) some holiday store-bought fruitcake and shortbread on hand as backup. No difficulties there. Finish with Unicum bitters, the traditional Continental digestif--and a canny choice to cap a superlative feast. If you like, supplement the Unicum with créme de menthe and cognac or an aged single-malt Scotch, and you've got it gift wrapped and tied with a bow. A holiday feast everyone will remember, and enjoy, even the host!

Each of the recipes serves eight.

Assemblage of Oysters and Clams, Salmon Caviar Garnish

Be sure to notify your fish dealer of your needs in advance. Have the oysters and clams opened and delivered on a bed of crushed ice, as close to dinnertime as feasible. Sprinkle with just a little lightly salted water to keep them plump and store in refrigerator. At serving time, arrange on chilled plates. You can brighten each oyster with a few grains of fresh salmon caviar or present the red pearls separately. Accompany with lime wedges and pass pepper mill. If you like, decorate each plate with puff of grated fresh horseradish.

Roast Contre-Filet of Beef, Au Jus

6-lb. boneless short-loin roast Coarse salt, freshly ground pepper Garlic powder (optional) Trim excess fat from roast, but leave enough to lubricate meat while roasting. Crosshatch fat with thin, sharp knife, taking care not to cut into meat. Rub roast with salt and pepper, and garlic powder if desired. Place on rack in roasting pan and put in preheated 325 oven. Roast 13 minutes per pound for rare, or until meat thermometer registers 130. Remove roast from oven and let it set in warm place at least 15 minutes before carving. Serve with natural pan juices.

[recipe_title]The Bountiful Pilaf[/recipe_title]

4 tablespoons butter

2 cups long-grain rice

½ cup sunflower seeds

½ lb. mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

3½ cups chicken or beef broth Salt

½ teaspoon curry powder

&facr14; teaspoon freshly ground pepper

&facr13; cup dry white wine or dry vermouth Melt butter over medium-low heat in heavy pan that has tight cover. Add rice and sunflower seeds and stir until lightly toasted, 5 to 7 minutes. Add mushrooms and shallots and cook, stirring, until softened. Season broth with salt to taste and add to pan along with curry powder, pepper and wine. Turn heat high and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer 20 minutes. Turn off heat, remove cover and stir lightly with long two-tined fork. Cover pan with clean dish towll and replace cover. (Towel absorbs steam to keep rice dry and fluffy.) Keep warm until ready to serve.

[recipe_title]Salade Russe[/recipe_title]

3 medium potatoes, cooked whole in their skins

4 medium carrots, peeled, diced and cooked

10-oz. package frozen peas, cooked as package directs

10-oz. package frozen cut green beans, cooked as package directs

16-oz. can white beans, well drained

8-oz. can diced beets, well drained

1/4 cup sliced cornichons or sour pickles

2 tablespoons capers, drained

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

1 small can flat anchovy fillets, well drained

1 tablespoon pickle juice or vinegar

1/4 teaspoon pepper

[recipe_title]Mayonnaise[/recipe_title]

Pitted black olives and marinated artichoke hearts, well drained

Peel cooked potatoes while warm and then dice. Dry all cooked and drained vegetables on paper towels, then combine in large salad bowl. Add pickles, capers and onion. Reserve few anchovy fillets for garnish; cut rest in small pieces and add to bowl. Stir pickle juice and pepper into 1 cup mayonnaise, then add to bowl. Stir gently until salad is well mixed. Add additional mayonnaise if needed and taste for salt. Coat top with thin layer of mayonnaise and garnish with olives, artichoke hearts and reserved anchovy fillets. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled.

Note: You'll probably have some salad left over. It makes a fine luncheon dish accompanied by hard-cooked eggs.

[recipe_title]Vintner's Pears[/recipe_title]

8 large firm ripe Anjou or Bosc pears

1 bottle full-bodied dry red wine

2 cups sugar

2-inch cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Use wide-bottomed pan, preferably enamel or stainless steel, large enough to accommodate pears in single layer. (If necessary, do pears in two batches.) Peel pears, leaving them whole, with their stems. Combine wine and sugar in pan and bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Add peeled pears and cinnamon stick; cover and return to simmer. Cook 10 to 15 minutes, or until pears are tender when pierced with small knife. Don't overcook--they shouldn't be mushy. Remove cinnamon stick and add vanilla to syrup. Cool pears in syrup, then refrigerate until ready to use. Spoon some syrup over each pear when serving.

Note: If pears are done in two batches, remove first pears from pan when cooked and transfer to bowl. Return syrup in pan to boil and add second batch of pears. When done, remove cinnamon stick, add vanilla and return first batch of pears to syrup.

[recipe_title]Roquefort Delice[/recipe_title]

1/2 lb. Roquefort cheese

1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter

1 tablespoon cognac

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4-1/3 cup finely chopped pecans

Let cheese and butter stand at room temperature until softened. Combine in bowl, add cognac and mix thoroughly; beat until very smooth. Whip cream stiff. Lightly fold into cheese mixture. Spoon into lightly oiled 2-cup bowl or mold. Chill at least 3 hours. Dip bowl quickly in hot water, cover with serving plate and invert to unmold. Sprinkle with pecans, pressing them lightly into surface, and return to refrigerator until needed. Serve with pears and crisp unsalted crackers.

Unicum Digestif

Europeans generally take Unicum bitters neat, after a lavish dinner or evening's indulgence. For American palates, it may be better to pour a little Unicum on the rocks. Add lemon twist and perhaps a light splash of soda.

If your guest list expands, you might consider a buffet. As it happens, the menu given lends itself very well to such service. If you do a buffet, forgo the sherry and pour champagne from the beginning. After all, Christmas comes but once a year.

"The preparation for our dinner is undemanding, liberating the host so he can be a guest at his own bash."