Sausages Take off

If you're ever invited to a sauna in Finland, don't be startled by ropes of limp sausages hanging from the rafters. It may seem like a shtick from a Marx Brothers film at first, but it's an old Finnish custom. When man and sausage are thoroughly steamed, both emerge from the sauna and the former gobbles the latter, sluicing it down with beer or cold schnapps.

Sausages are the universal nosh, generic to every cuisine, culture and country. The ancient Spartans, not otherwise known for their joie de vivre, raffishly suspended sausages from the ceilings of their eating clubs. Young blades would catch the loukanika in their teeth as they strolled by and snap off a mouthful. Look, Ma--no hands! Portuguese fado houses offer spicy red lingüiça flamed in bagachera, the pungent, native marc. The spirit is (continued on page 196)Sausages(continued from page 153) sloshed into a boat-shaped vessel and lit and the sausages are turned in the leaping flames. Die Münchner dote on their 11-A.M. Weisswürste break, wolfing sausages out of hand, sans roll, with perhaps a pretzel or a slice of white radish. And Hungaria, a spiffy caravansary in Manhattan's new Citicorp building, displays a sausage-festooned tree as its primary decorative theme.

Whatever their provenance, sausages were originally a product of necessity, a way of preserving meats in a prerefrigerator era, at the same time making delicious use of tough cuts, trimmings and leftovers. Then, as now, the meats were chopped, zapped with spices and condiments, stuffed into protective casings and divided into usable lengths. Preserving techniques were influenced by locale and climate. The weather of Mediterranean countries dictated sausages that held up in warmer climes--dry and semidry types such as the Italian salamis--preserved mainly with salt and spices. Conversely, chilly northern temperatures allowed development of more perishable fresh and smoked sausages. The Germans were particularly inventive, creating such temptations as delicate veal-and-pork Weisswürste, hearty Bauernwurst and Bratwurst and no fewer than 50 varieties of liverwurst!

Although sausage production is now highly mechanized, traditional curing methods are still employed, but changes are in the wind. Serious questions have been raised about the safety of nitrites and nitrates, historically used for preserving and flavoring, and a Federal panel is presently conducting a "slide by slide" review. However, it's not a simple matter, since nitrite protects against botulism, and the FDA will "never endorse an action that is going to cause more problems than it is going to cure." Meanwhile, a number of producers have voluntarily reduced nitrite content and there are even nitrite-free examples on the market. Anticipating change, the U.S.D.A. has launched an educational campaign alerting consumers to freeze cured sausage.

The United States, with its multinational population, is sausage heaven, and some 200 distinct types are available. Among them are such esoterica as German Yachtwurst (often studded with pistachios), savory Chinese lop chong (which come in pairs), small chipolata (used to garland the necks of British holiday birds), French andouillette (made from intestines), Italian cotechino (fat, garlicky sausage similar to the French saucisson à l'ail) and the dry, peppery Hungarian gyulei. One sausage that never gained much popularity, and maybe it's just as well, is pemmican, an American Indian combination of chopped dried beef and dried berries.

Sausage buffs go bananas trying to classify this wealth of Wurst as to place of origin, prime ingredient, spicing or type of cure; but there are, essentially, two broad categories of sausages. Ready to serve sausages include such fully cooked items as liverwurst, bologna, salami, as well as tangy semidry and dry salamis and the less assertive cervelat--also called summer sausage. All of those slice well for sandwiches and platters. If you like your sausage by the chunk, get the small, zesty dry sausages--chorizo or pepperoni--and cut yourself a "chaw."

Many fully cooked sausages improve in flavor and succulence when heated. Knackwurst (it looks like a big frank-furter), coarse-textured, spicy Bauernwurst, smoked Bratwurst and Polish kielbasa may be simmered in water, wine or beer, grilled or pan broiled, while the unctuous blood sausages--French boudin, German Blutwurst, Scandinavian blodp?lse and Irish blood pudding--respond nicely to browning in butter.

Raw sausages, both fresh and smoked, are the other basic group, and they require thorough cooking. In addition to the familiar breakfast links, there are sweet or hot Italian salsiccia--often spiked with fennel, parsley or parmesan cheese--the somewhat mealy British banger, served with a side of "mash," and parsley-flecked Bockwurst. Since so many sausages contain at least some pork, it's important to ask for cooking directions when buying a new item.

Specialty shops and ethnic delis are your best bet for unusual items, but well-stocked supermarkets and the gourmet sections of department stores offer a surprising choice. There are also mail-order sources for sausage. Schaller & Weber (1654 Second Avenue, New York, New York 10028) is famous for German-style Wurst; Fred Usinger, Inc. (1030 North Third Street, Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53203), offers a variety; Manganaro's (488 Ninth Avenue, New York, New York 10018) is known for Italian specialties. Chorizo and lingüiça are available from Casa Moneo (210 West 14th Street, New York, New York 10011); and McArthur's Smokehouse (Millerton, New York 12546) comes through with notable bangers and hickory-smoked breakfast links. That's it--the best of the Wurst and real good eatin'.

Maifest

Perhaps you won't make it to this year's Oktoberfest--Munich's annual sausage-and-beer blast--but you can stage a Maifest at your place. Invite all the hungry types you know and set out a variety of sausages, buffet style. Accompany with the appropriate trimmings--hot sauerkraut, cole slaw, pickles, an assortment of breads, several kinds of mustard (Dijon, coarse-ground Moutarde de Meaux, Dusseldorf), French potato salad and plenty of cold beer!

Cold Sausages: Chorizo and pepperoni cut in 1-in. lengths. Italian salami, mortadella and Braunschweiger liverwurst cut in thin slices. Arrange on platters and garnish with sliced pimientos.

Hot Sausages: Smoked Bratwurst and kielbasa--prick lightly, place in cold frying pan and sauté over medium heat, turning often, until browned. Knackwurst and Bauernwurst--cover with beer or water in a saucepan; bring to simmer and heat 10 minutes. Drain. Slice sausages, set on platters and top with sprigs of watercress.

[recipe_title]French Potato Salad[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 lbs. new potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons white wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions, finely chopped (including some green)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons chopped parsley[/recipe]

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, peel and slice into bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add wine and stir gently. Let stand 1/2 hour. Combine remaining ingredients and fold into salad. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if necessary. Serve at room temperature.

[recipe_title]Choucroute Garni[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]3 1bs. sauerkraut[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons bacon drippings or salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large onions, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tart cooking apples, peeled and chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]6 whole peppercorns[/recipe]

[recipe]10 juniper berries (or 1/4 cup gin)[/recipe]

[recipe]6 smoked pork chops[/recipe]

[recipe]6 Weisswürste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1b. kielbasa[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2, 1b. Knackwurst[/recipe]

Rinse sauerkraut in cold water; drain thoroughly, squeezing out as much water as possible. Heat drippings or oil in large, deep pot and sauté onions and garlic until softened. Add drained kraut, apples and wine. Tie bay leaf, peppercorns and juniper berries in cheesecloth and add to pot. (If juniper berries are not available, add gin.) Cover and cook over low heat for 1 hour. Add pork chops, cover and cook 1/2 hour longer. Meanwhile, brown Weisswürste in lightly greased skillet and cut kielbasa and Knackwurst into thick slices. Add all sausages to pot. Cover and cook another 1/2 hour. Remove seasoning bag and discard. Pile sauerkraut and sausage slices on big platter and arrange pork chops and Weisswürste around and on top. Serve with boiled potatoes, choice of mustards and dryish Riesling or Gewurztraminer wine.

Choucroute au Champagne: Daniel Fuchs, chef at Maxwell's Plum, has a spectacular way of presenting his native dish. Arrange choucroute in heatproof casserole and place on réchaud or alcohol burner. Make an opening in the center and set a split of champagne in the space. Remove the wire mask but hold your thumb firmly on the cork. When ready, remove your thumb. The heat will pop the cork and a gusher of bubbly will erupt over the sides, into the dish. When foaming ceases, add remaining champagne and cook 10 minutes more.

[recipe_title]Kaplan's Salami and Eggs[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

A favorite dish often served at Kaplan's at the Delmonico, a luxury residence hotel in Manhattan.

[recipe]1/4 1b. kosher-style salami, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]4 eggs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons water[/recipe]

[recipe]Black pepper, optional[/recipe]

Remove outer casing from salami slices; cut each slice in half. Sauté salami in lightly greased skillet over medium heat until slices begin to curl. Salami should release enough fat to fry eggs, but you can add a little oil if needed. Beat eggs lightly with water and add to skillet all at once. As eggs set, lift sides so that liquid runs underneath. When omelet is firm but still moist on top, turn with spatula and cook quickly on flip side. Slide onto warmed plate. The salami provides enough salt, but you can add a grind of pepper, if you like. Kaplan's uses an extra-garlicky Knubblewurst salami, which is about half the diameter of the regular. If you can find this, don't bother cutting slices in half.

[recipe_title]Portugues Chorizo Asazo[/recipe_title]

(Portuguese Flamed Sausages)

Cut lingüiça or chorizo sausages in 2-in. lengths. Place in pan with about 1/2 cup water. Bring water to boil, cover pan and cook about 5 minutes. Uncover pan and continue cooking until water boils away and sausages are lightly browned. Reduce heat. Add about a jigger of brandy (preferably marc or grappa) to pan and ignite. Stand back when adding spirit, as it can flame spontaneously. Shake pan slowly, turning sausages in flames. Serve as soon as flames die. Makes a tangy appetizer with cocktails or Portuguese Vinho Verde wine.

[recipe_title]Sausages and Peppers, San Gennaro[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

[recipe]4-6 Italian sausages (depending on size)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large sweet red pepper, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium onion, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt and pepper, to taste[/recipe]

Use sweet or hot sausages or combination. Bring water and wine to boil in large skillet. Add sausages and cook, turning once, for about 10 minutes or until liquid in pan boils out. Add olive oil and brown sausages lightly on both sides. Add red pepper, onion, garlic, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until red pepper is tender and sausages nicely browned. This takes about 15 minutes, but you can speed things up a bit by covering pan for part of time. Uncover toward end, so liquid in pan can evaporate and vegetables take on glazed appearance.

[recipe_title]Layered Sausage and Potato Hungaria[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]3 1bs. small potatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 1b. butter, melted[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 1b. boiled ham, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 1b. fresh pork sausages, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 pint sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika[/recipe]

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender. Drain, peel and slice. Arrange layer of potatoes on bottom of large, well-buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and little melted butter. Cover this layer with ham slices and top with another of sliced potatoes. Sprinkle with salt and melted butter. Arrange egg slices and sausage slices on top. Finish with final layer of potatoes. Pour any remaining butter on top. Spread sour cream over all and sprinkle with paprika. Bake in preheated 350° oven for 1/2 hour.

Informal wine-and-sausage parties are popular in France, especially with students. It's an easy, lively way to entertain--which often leads to spicy conversation and amiable alliances.

"The United States, with its multinational population, is sausage heaven, and some 200 types are available."