Yo•gurt

yo•ghurtoryo•ghurt\yo-gert\n. [Turk. yogurt] For thousands of years, this custardy concoction, derived from a variety of milks, has been eaten by believers in the hope, and often expectation, of enhanced vitality, sensuality, allure, amour and sexual performance. Today, yogurt has shed its recent trendy image and joined the gastronomic mainstream. During 1978, Americans packed away about one billion cups of the tangy stuff--or close to 3,000,000 cups every day! about half the population is addicted to yogurt in some form: plain; flavored with vanilla, lemon, coffee, etc.; as a sundae (continued on page 270) Yogurt(continued from page 173) with preserves at the bottom; Swiss style, with fruit mixed through it; or Western style, featuring a little flavoring at the top and preserves at the bottom. There's also a Midwestern version that, like the Swiss style, is laced with fruit, but boasts a bit of extra syrup at the bottom.

"Red is the leading flavor," in the trade lingo of Juan Metzger, chairman of the board of Dannon, our largest yogurt producer. "Next is blue, and then come the yellows." This translates as strawberry, raspberry and cherry, followed by blueberry, plum and boysenberry, with apricot, peach, pineapple-orange and Dutch apple in the show position. Among the more fanciful offerings are peppermint stick, date walnut ripple, peanut butter and peaches and cream.

The unflavored plain now is only ten percent of the total output, and even here, many people stir in their own toppings: frozen juice, maple syrup, fresh fruit, liqueurs, applesauce, catsup, chives, apple or peach butter, canned minced clams, cinnamon sugar or blackstrap molasses and wheat germ, if they're of that persuasion. Metzger himself opts for "a teaspoon of MBT vegetable-bouillon powder in a cup of Dannon's plain, at the desk," when he's too busy to break for lunch.

Like wine, yogurt is a natural food, occurring spontaneously under favorable conditions, when the temperature is right and certain organisms are present. In making yogurt, man simply imitates nature. The milk is inoculated with lactic-acid-forming bacteria and brought to optimum temperature, between 105 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The little buggers multiply feverishly, feeding on the milk sugar (lactose) and converting it to lactic acid. This, in turn, coagulates the milk, transforming it into a solid. The result has been variously described as sour milk with a college education, curdled milk or a cultured-milk product of custard-smooth consistency.

Yogurt goes by many names--leben, madzoon, yoghurt, dahi, naja--and it's made from the milk of sheep, yaks, water buffaloes, mares, camels, goats and, of course, cows. Considering that it's one of man's oldest foods, dating back to the early Neolithic era, yogurt is an arriviste in Western circles. The news was first bruited by Russian Nobel laureate Ilya Mechnikov, around the turn of the century. He related the longevity of Bulgarian centenarians to friendly organisms in yogurt. Although the professor gobbled yogurt with abandon, he died at the age of 71, God's allotted quota but considerably short of his expectations. Recent experiments indicate that stomach acid destroys lactobacilli--and cynical scientists attribute the prevalence of spry old Bulgarians and Abkhasians to a raffish way with vital records. Nevertheless, the health-food mystique persisted.

It wasn't until yogurt shed the crank image and producers sweetened its character with liberal doses of preserves that yogurt turned chic. Today, it's practically a staple of the executive refrigerator, crowding the Perrier, diet soda, olives and ice cubes. Avid skiers spoon it down while waiting in the towline. Models gulp it in cabs, en route to their next assignments. Yogurterias are sprouting, especially in smart, fashion-conscious neighborhoods, offering such temptations as yogurt sundaes, yogurt shakes, frozen yogurt and a variety of other yogurt-based dishes.

For some, yogurt is an involvement. They roll their own, experimenting with combinations of skim milk, low-fat milk and whole milk, adding extra milk solids or cream and varying the time of incubation. (The longer it cures, the more tart and dense it becomes.) There's no trick to turning out yogurt at home with a temperature-controlled machine, such as the one Salton makes. Otherwise, it's a hassle. Devotees find all kinds of esoteric uses for yogurt. As it happens, yogurt's sprightly taste makes it a versatile cooking ingredient, as you'll see when you sample the recipes that follow.

[recipe_title]Yogurt Romanoff[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon dried minced onion[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons minced fresh dill (or 3/4 teaspoon dried)[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly ground pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]2-oz. jar red-salmon caviar[/recipe]

Combine yogurt with onion and dill; add couple grinds pepper. Gently stir in caviar. Serve with black bread or spoon onto baked potatoes.

[recipe_title]Crudites with jade dipping sauce[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/2 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons each finely chopped chives, parsley, dill[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Fresh vegetables: cauliflower, broccoli, tiny green beans, snow peas, asparagus, zucchini, carrots, celery, cucumber, scallions, red or icicle radishes, cherry tomatoes[/recipe]

Combine yogurt, mayonnaise and sea sonings; chill. You can use as many of the fresh vegetables as you like--the more the better. Cauliflower, broccoli, green beans, snow peas and asparagus benefit from a quick blanching. Trim cauliflower and broccoli and break into flowerets. Snap ends off green beans and snow peas, but leave whole. Take tips only of young asparagus. Bring large pot of water to boil. Add vegetables and return water to boil. Drain vegetables immediately and plunge into cold water. Drain and dry gently but thoroughly with paper towels. Chill. Other vegetables should be washed and peeled, scraped, trimmed or cut as necessary. When ready to serve, spoon dip into bowl and surround with an attractive arrangement of vegetables.

Note: This also makes a delicious sauce for cold poached fish.

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[recipe_title]Yogurt Boursin[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 pint whole-milk plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon very finely chopped baby scallions (including green)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled[/recipe]

[recipe]Cheesecloth[/recipe]

Combine yogurt with seasonings. Prepare triple-thick 12-in.-square cheesecloth and dampen. Spoon seasoned yogurt in center of cheesecloth and tie opposite corners together to form sling. Hang over faucet of kitchen sink; secure with piece of string, if necessary. Let yogurt drain 6 to 8 hours or until it has firm, creamy texture. (Do this overnight if you don't want to tie up your sink.) Refrigerate before serving.

Note: If you like, you can put a bowl under the sling to catch the whey as it drains out. Chill for a tangy sip, something like sauerkraut juice. You can even add a shot of vodka.

[recipe_title]Potage Tehran[/recipe_title]

Serves six

[recipe]1 quart plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large cucumber[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup dried currants or sultana raisins[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chopped walnuts or shelled pistachio nuts[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chopped mint leaves(or 1/4 cup dried)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup chopped parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Water (optional)[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Thin slices lemon[/recipe]

Peel cucumber; halve lengthwise and scoop out seeds with teaspoon. Coarsely greate cucumber. Add to yogurt along with currants, nuts, mint, parsley and olive oil. Mix well. If you'd like the soup a little thinner, stir in water--a few tablespoons at a time--until it seems the right consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate several hours, but remove from refrigerator several hours, but remove from refrigerator about 15 minutes before serving, so that it's not icy cold. Stir soup and ladle into bowls. Float lemon slice on each portion.

[recipe_title]Lassi[/recipe_title]

(Serves three)

(Shezan, one of Manhattan's better Indian restaurants, serves this libation with sweet-salt seasoning, unless otherwise specified. "Otherwise" is either sweet or salt, but the combination is typically Indian.)

[recipe]1 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups crushed ice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Mint leaves for garnish[/recipe]

Buzz yogurt, ice and seasonings in blender at medium speed for 3 to 5 minutes. Pour into chilled tall glasses. Garnish with sprig fresh mint and serve with straws.

[recipe_title]Yogurt-Crusted Chicken[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

[recipe]1/2 cup (approximate) plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]2-1/2--3 lbs. chicken parts (breasts, things, legs)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly ground pepper, to tast[/recipe]

Remove skin from chicken pieces. Spread thin coating yogurt on each piece and dredge in bredge in bread crumbs mixed with seasonings. Bake in lightly greased shallow pan at 350° F. about 1 hour.

[recipe_title]Veal and water chestnuts[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]1/2 cup plain yogurt (at room temperature)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. veal scallops (cut from loeg)[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour seasoned with salt, papper and dash nutmeg[/recipe]

[recipe]2--3 tablespoons butter (or salad oil)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large garlic clove, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sliced canned water chestnuts[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons sweet paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup medium-dry sherry[/recipe]

Veal scallops should be pounded to 1/8-in. thickness Dredge in seasoned flour. Heat 2 tableswpoons butter or oil in large skillet over medium heat. Sauté veal on both sides until golden brown--3 to 5 minutes each side. Remove from pan and keep warm. Add onion and garlic to pan (and a little more butter or oil, if necessary) and sauté until softened. Add water chestnuts, paprika and sherry; simmer until sherry is almost evaporated, Stir in yogurt and bring just to simmer. Return veal to pan and turn in sauce to heat through--2 to 3 minutes. Serve with noodles.

[recipe_title]Zesty Beef Stroganoff[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 cup plain yogurt (at room temperature)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. mushrooms, salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 lbs. boneless sirloin steak, cut in thin strips[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour, seasoned with salt and pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

Heat oil in large skillet. Add mushrooms and onion. Sauté 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from skillet with all juices; keep warm. Toss steak strips in seasoned flour to coat lightly. Melt butter in skillet over medium-high heat, until it turns golden and stops sputtering. Add steak strips. Sauté, turning often, until lightly browned, about 3 munutes; meat should still be pink inside. Return mushrooms and onions, with their juices, to skillet. Add Worcester-shire sauce. Stir in yogurt and cook just until hot--do not boil. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve with rice.

[recipe_title]Yogurt Zombie[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. coconut-rum liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 ozs. apple juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 banana, cut in chunks[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup crushed ice[/recipe]

Buzz all ingredients in blender until smooth. Pour into chilled tall glass. Garnish with sprinkle cinnamon.

[recipe_title]Tortoni Aux Fraises[/recipe_title]

Although this tortoni is frozen, it has a tender heart.

[recipe]1 cup strawberry whole-milk yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]9-oz. container frozen whipped topping[/recipe]

[recipe]2-3 tablespoons strawberry liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons chopped toasted almonds[/recipe]

Place frozen whipped topping in refrigerator for several hours to thaw. Empty yogurt into large bowl and add liqueur. Combine. Fold in thawed whipped topping. Spoon into small dessert dishes or foil cups. Sprinkle with almonds. Freeze until just firm, about 2 hours. If tortonis become hard-frozen, transfer to refrigerator for about 45 minutes to 1 hour before serving.

[recipe_title]Mousse a la russe[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]1 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 envelope unflavored gelatin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can crushed pineapple[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons triple sec[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

Combine gelatin and sugar in saucepan. Add pineapple with its juice. Heat, stirring, until gelatin and sugar dissolve. Remove from heat and stir in triple sec and light cream. Beat in yogurt until smooth. Pour into serving bowl or individual dessert coupes and chill until set, about 4 hours.

[recipe_title]Banana cheese pie[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 cup vanilla yogurt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 envelope unflavored gelatin[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. small-curd cottage cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2-3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small banana, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon honey[/recipe]

[recipe]Graham-cracker pie shell (available prepared)[/recipe]

Push cottage cheese through sieve. Add yogurt and sugar; mix until well combined. Stir banana slice with honey to coat both sides. Layer banana slice in pie shell and spoon yogurt mixture over. Chill until firm, about 3 hours.

Admittedly, yogurt is good for you, but the best reason to eat it is that it testes good! Enjoy it at any meal or as a relatively low-calorie between-meal snack--foregoing the usual junk-food fix!

"Yogurt is a staple of an exec's refrigerator, crowding the Perrier, diet soda, olives and ice cubes."