Catfish Catches On

In wall street jargon, catfish is a growth industry. Yes, they're growing catfish. On farms. Hold the chuckles, Charley, the story gets funnier. Last year, some guys in Mississippi took a 100,000,000-pound crop of farm-raised catfish to market. That's $200,000,000 at retail--and the trend is vertical! These numbers are luring such unlikely corporate pillars as Coca-Cola, Campbell Soup and Weyerhaeuser into the aquiculture (growing fish as a farm crop) business. Obviously, you don't get that kind of production fishing off the levee with a bent pin. ConAgra, an agricultural conglomerate, treats catfish as just another farm crop like poultry and feed grain, which it also handles. (continued on page 214) Catfish (continued from page 133)

In the market place, catfish are sold as fillets, steaks--taken from larger specimens and dressed--the whole fish, skinned, eviscerated and headed. The tough, slippery catfish skin is inedible and is always stripped away. In the catfish belt, young ladies are groomed in the art of skinning, and a pincerlike utensil known as catfish pliers is part of every well-equipped pantry.

Easterners consider the bewhiskered catfish exotic and strange, but Ictaluridae are as American as hot dogs and Arbor Day--native to the big rivers and country streams of our South and Middle West. Ichthyologists have identified 28 species of catfish in North American waters, not including Catfish Hunter. Among them are such oddities as walking and armored catfish, ranging in size from the inch-long mad tom to 120-pound blue cats. Only three types are grown commercially in the United States--blue, white and channel catfish, the last by far the most significant. Blues don't do well in tank cars and whites have outsized heads, which make them uneconomical. Not yet available commercially, the flat-head, or opelousas, is the connoisseur's choice. Unfortunately, the breed feeds on its own young, a testimonial to its taste appeal but something of a drag for growers.

Once you get past the ugly visage, catfish are fine fare--light, moist, firm-fleshed, with a muted aroma. One authority in the field, McClane's New Standard Fish Encyclopedia, rates them "an excellent food fish." Nutritionally, they're in line with current standards, being high in protein, low in the three Cs--calories, carbohydrates, cholesterol--and loaded with B vitamins. Catfish are extremely versatile: superb in soups, gumbos, salads and quiches, as well as baked, poached, curried or creamed, and even à la Cantonese. But at local fries and other traditional events, they don't mess around. The fish are mealed, deep-fried and served with hush puppies, cole slaw, tartar sauce and maybe French-fried potatoes. La grande cuisine it ain't, but it's good eating--and favored by Plains folks, they say.

Aquiculture is still in a primitive stage, and it's not confined to catfish. Trout, salmon, carp, milkfish, shrimps, scampi, bass, bluegill, mullet, oysters, lobsters and abalone are being grown either commercially or experimentally. Technology is continually being refined, and perhaps some Viennese fish psychologist will find a way to curb the opelousas' cannibalistic predilections. So while farm-raised fish have a lot to offer now, the best is yet to come.

[recipe_title]Escabeche[/recipe_title]

(10 to 12 hors-d'oeuvre servings)

[recipe]2 to 3 lbs. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour, seasoned with salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Oil for frying[/recipe]

[recipe]2 large red onions, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]4 cloves garlic, slivered[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup oil (may be part olive oil)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon each dry mustard, oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

Cut fillets in 2-in. strips and coat lightly with seasoned flour. Heat 1/8 in. oil in large skillet and fry fish until golden brown on both sides. Layer fish with sliced onions and slivered garlic in wide bowl or deep glass or enamel baking pan. Put remaining ingredients in blender and blend until combined. Pour over and around fish. Cover container and refrigerate at least 24 hours before serving.

[recipe_title]Batter-Fried Catfish and Hush Puppies[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

Hunters, enjoying a fish fry, would toss bits of fried corn-meal batter to the baying hounds, calling, "Hush, puppies." Tasting the morsels themselves, the men found them delicious and made them part of the menu. And that's how hush puppies were born.

[recipe]Oil for deep frying[/recipe]

[recipe]1 package (8 to 10 ozs.) corn-muffin or corn-bread mix[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon each pepper, garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 to 1/2 cup milk (according to package directions)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 lbs. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup chopped onion[/recipe]

Heat 1-1/2 ins. oil to 350° in large, deep skillet or electric frying pan. Combine corn-muffin mix with pepper and garlic powder; mix with egg and milk as package directs. Dry fillets with paper towels and dust lightly with flour. Spread a thin coating of batter on both sides of fillets. Lower fillets into hot oil, but don't crowd pan. Fry until well browned, turning if necessary. (This takes 3 to 5 minutes.) Lift fish from pan, drain on paper towels and keep warm.

Hush Puppies

When all fish have been fried, add chopped onion to remaining batter. Drop batter for each hush puppy into hot oil with teaspoon and fry until deep golden brown. Hush puppies should be about size of walnuts when done. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Serve fish and hush puppies with lemon wedges, Tabasco, cole slaw and pickle relish, if you like.

[recipe_title]Southern-Fried Catfish[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

[recipe]2 lbs. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup corn meal[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Oil for frying[/recipe]

Rub fillets with cut lemon on both sides. Roll in mixture of corn meal and seasonings. Pour 1/8 in. oil into large skillet and place over medium heat. Fry fillets until brown and crisp on both sides, about 8 minutes in all.

Note: For a spicy, down-home flavor, sprinkle fillets generously with Tabasco instead of rubbing them with lemon.

[recipe_title]Sloppy Louie's Catfish Saute[/recipe_title]

(Serves two or three)

Catfish "Northern style," as prepared at one of New York's top seafood restaurants--Sloppy Louie's--located within casting distance of the Fulton Fish Market.

[recipe]Blended oil (including olive oil)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, lightly beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons dry sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chopped parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon slices sprinkled with parsley and paprika, for garnish[/recipe]

Heat 1/8 in. oil in large skillet until very hot. Lightly dust catfish fillets with flour, then dip in egg. Fry fish about 1 minute on each side, just until pale gold. Pour off oil. Add butter to pan, then remaining ingredients except lemon slices. Sauté fish about 3 minutes more on each side, basting with pan juices. Transfer contents of pan to heated platter and garnish each fillet with lemon slice.

At Sloppy Louie's, they put the chopped parsley on one half of the lemon slice and paprika on the other.

[recipe_title]Sour-Cream-Baked Catfish[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

A finalist in the fifth National Farm-Raised Catfish Cooking Contest.

[recipe]6 pan-ready catfish, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 tablespoons flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons chopped stuffed olives[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon each paprika, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon chopped fresh dillweed (or 1 teaspoon dried)[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon wedges, parsley sprigs[/recipe]

Clean, wash and dry fish; place in well-greased baking dish. Combine mayonnaise and flour. Add sour cream, olives, celery salt, paprika, pepper and thyme. Spread sauce over fish. Sprinkle with dill-weed. Bake in 350° oven for about 25 minutes, or until fish flakes when touched with fork. Garnish plate with lemon wedges and parsley.

[recipe_title]Catfish Creole[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1 lb. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup sliced celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sliced scallions, including green part[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chopped green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]l-lb. can tomatoes, cut into small pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 bay leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon brown sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dashes Tabasco[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup chopped parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Hot cooked rice[/recipe]

Cut fillets into 1-in. pieces. Heat oil in large pan. Add flour and stir until brown. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Add water gradually, stirring until blended. Add all ingredients except catfish and rice. Cover and simmer 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Remove bay leaves. Add catfish and simmer 8 to 10 minutes more or until fish flakes when touched with fork. Serve over rice in soup bowls.

[recipe_title]Cheese-Broiled Catfish[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]1/4 cup soft bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup grated parmesan or other sharp cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. catfish fillets, thawed if frozen[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons melted butter[/recipe]

Preheat broiler and broiling pan. Combine bread crumbs, cheese and seasonings. Spread mixture evenly over each fillet. Generously grease heated broiling pan and place fillets on it. Drizzle 2 tablespoons melted butter over fillets; set pan 3 ins. from heat and broil for 3 minutes; baste with remaining butter and broil 3 minutes more. Transfer from pan with two spatulas to heated platter.

Ol' Mississippi boys swear that catfish are more aphrodisiac than oysters. But why not start with oysters, follow with catfish and finish with a tot of cognac? You just might wind up in the catbird seat.

"Once you get past the ugly visage, catfish are fine fare--light, moist, with a muted aroma."