City Stick-Ers

The Latest Fad in chic New York street food is something called meat sticks--bite-sized chunks of beef, charcoal broiled on small bamboo skewers, eaten alfresco. Introduced to the Big Apple during a recent rash of ethnic-food fairs, they are now hawked all over town, with vendors setting up portable grills or hibachis on any likely corner. This culinary innovation is, in fact, a Westernized version of saté, the favorite nosh of southeast Asia. From Bandung to Singapore, open-air food stalls offer saté--bamboo or palm-leaf skewers strung with cubes of well-seasoned grilled chicken, beef, pork, shrimp ... even water buffalo or turtle, if that's your pleasure. And satés (continued on page 258)City Stuck-Ers(continued from page 177) are but one of a host of skewer-broiled specialties throughout the world.

Huntsmen and warriors who roamed the Caucasus Mountains were probably most inventive in developing the art of skewer cookery. Swords that raffishly lopped off enemy heads by day were transformed into skewers at night, the blades threaded with chunks of lamb and laid in the fire to make shashlik. Those fierce tribesmen also dabbled in delicate marinades such as pomegranate juice.

The multiple benefits of marinating are widely appreciated today, extending well beyond the exotic pomegranate. Lemon, lime and papaya juices, vinegar, wine, yogurt and sour cream are staple marinade bases that tenderize and lend pizzazz to skewered preparations. When the marinade is laced with herbs, spices, seasonings and a splash of oil, the effect can be ravishing. Savvy grilladins add unexpected nuances to marinades by deft infusions of walnut, hazelnut or pumpkin-seed oil and by exploiting the array of scented vinegars. Strawberry or plum vinegar does a lot for pork, mint vinegar perks up lamb, tarragon vinegar gives zest to fish and poultry and the red-wine vinegar imparts a lusty note to beef or lamb kabobs. Lemon and vinegar are largely absent in Far Eastern skewery, because the petite slivers of seafood, fowl and pork used need no tenderizing. Instead, chefs lean heavily on soy sauce, fresh ginger, coriander, curry and other Oriental blandishments.

Skewer cookery originated and grew because it was easy, convenient and satisfying. But no one ever leaves well enough alone, and a few flourishes have been added over the years. There's one invention that loads and mechanically rotates half a dozen skewers at a time. Our suggestion is to lavish your creative energy on the fare, leaving the heavy hardware to commercial operations. The joy of skewer cookery is still in its simplicity. You can become a notable practitioner of the art without special equipment, by observing the few simple rules that follow.

• Use quality charcoal briquettes, arrange in a single layer in the firebox and let them burn down until they are covered with gray ash before starting to cook. Knowledgeable skewer chefs advocate spreading the hot coals so that they are spaced between the rows of kabobs on the grill above. This minimizes flare-ups and distributes heat more evenly.

• Of course, there are exceptions, but in most cases, the grill can be set about five inches above the coals, which should give medium heat--350° to 375° Fahrenheit. If you can keep your hand above the coals three to four seconds, it's right.

• Cooking time of meat will depend on the type (pork requires longer cooking), size of cubes, fat content and how well done you like it. For juicy, rare kabobs, push the contents of the skewers close together. If you prefer meat well done, leave space between the kabobs.

• Pair meats and vegetables that require the same cooking time. Longer-cooking vegetables can be parboiled before grilling, if necessary.

• To keep bamboo skewers from burning, soak them in cold water for at least an hour before using and wrap the tips in foil. These are best used for quick-cooking kabobs.

• Skewer preparations are usually served with or over rice, bulgur or other grains. They may also be sandwiched in thin French loaves (flutes), pita bread or hot-dog rolls.

[recipe_title]Shrimp Teriyaki[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]1 lb. large shrimps, in shell[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sake[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger root (or candied ginger)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar (omit if using candied ginger)[/recipe]

[recipe]Freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

Slit shrimps up back and remove black vein; don't remove shells. Combine all remaining ingredients and pour over shrimps. Marinate 1 to 2 hours, turning occasionally. Meanwhile, soak bamboo skewers in cold water. Remove shrimps from marinade and thread 2 or 3 (depending on size) lengthwise on skewers. Broil, turning once and basting with marinade, just until shrimps turn pink--5 to 8 minutes.

Note: Japanese marinades tend to go heavy on sugar, but Americans prefer them less sweet.

[recipe_title]Peanut Chicken[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]11/2 lbs. boneless chicken, breast or thigh[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chunky peanut butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry vermouth or chicken bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely chopped scallions (including some green)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro (or parsley)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]2 or 3 grinds fresh pepper Salt, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]teaspoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup plain yogurt[/recipe]

Cut chicken into 1- to l1/2-in. cubes; combine remaining ingredients, except curry powder and yogurt, in bowl. Mix well. Remove 1/3 cup and set aside. Stir curry powder into remaining mixture, then add chicken cubes. Marinate 1/2 hour, stirring occasionally. Combine reserved 1/3 cup peanut-butter mixture with yogurt and season to taste with salt and pepper. String chicken pieces on pre-soaked bamboo skewers and arrange on greased grill rack. Broil, turning once, until lightly browned and just done. Breast-meat cubes will take about 5 minutes, thigh meat about 8. Serve with yogurt sauce.

Note: These skewers can be done over hibachi, on charcoal grill or in oven broiler.

[recipe_title]Shish Kabob[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]2 to 21/2 lbs. lean, boneless beef or lamb[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup each red wine, wine vinegar, salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large clove garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon each oregano, thyme[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]Several grinds fresh pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium green peppers, cut into 11/2 in. squares[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium onions, quartered[/recipe]

[recipe]3 medium firm tomatoes, quartered[/recipe]

Cut meat into 11/2-in. cubes; combine remaining ingredients except vegetables and pour over meat. Marinate several hours. Remove meat from marinade and alternate with vegetables on skewers. Broil, turning and basting with marinade, 12 to 15 minutes or until done to taste.

Note: Lamb is at its most flavorful when broiled pink--medium done.

[recipe_title]Bul-Kogi[/recipe_title]

(Korean Barbecued Beef)

(Serves four to six)

[recipe]1 to l1/2 lbs. boneless sirloin (or other tender beef)[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons sesame seeds[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, very finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons cream sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sesame oil (or salad oil)[/recipe]

[recipe]3 or 4 grinds fresh pepper[/recipe]

Cut meat into very thin strips. Put sesame seeds in small skillet and stir over low heat until browned. Watch carefully, as seeds can burn. Crush seeds in mortar with pestle or put in heavy plastic bag and pound with bottom of skillet. Combine crushed seeds with all remaining ingredients. Marinate beef strips about 1/2 hour. String strips lengthwise on skewers, accordion fashion. Grill 11/2 to 2 minutes on each side.

Note: Meat will be easier to slice if slightly frozen.

[recipe_title]Spiedini Alla Romana[/recipe_title]

(For four to six hors d'oeuvres)

[recipe]Long, narrow loaf of firm-textured French or Italian bread[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. mozzarella cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]8 to 12 anchovy fillets, rinsed and dried 1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley[/recipe]

Preheat oven to 450°; put large shallow baking pan in oven to heat. Slice bread 1/4 to 3/8 in. thick. Remove crusts. Slice cheese same size and thickness as bread. Each serving takes 4 slices bread and 3 slices cheese. Alternate bread and cheese on skewers, beginning and ending with bread. Finely chop anchovies. Melt butter in small skillet; add anchovies and stir with fork, shredding them so that they dissolve into butter. Add parsley and keep sauce warm. Place skewers on heated baking pan and bake about 5 minutes, until bread browns and cheese melts. Slide bread and cheese onto heated plates and spoon anchovy-butter sauce over each.

Note: Spiedini are often deep fried, but they're lighter and more appealing when baked.

[recipe_title]Angels on Horseback[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

[recipe]6 slices bacon[/recipe]

[recipe]24 small mushroom caps[/recipe]

[recipe]2 dozen shelled oysters[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 stick butter, melted[/recipe]

[recipe]Several grinds fresh pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon wedges[/recipe]

Cook bacon until half done. Put skewer through one end of each slice bacon. Follow with mushroom cap and oyster. Repeat, weaving bacon over and under each set of mushroom and oyster, until skewer is loaded. Combine lemon juice, butter and pepper; brush each skewer with mixture. Broil, turning, until bacon is crisp and edges of oysters start to curl. Serve with lemon wedges.

Note: Chicken livers may be substituted for oysters.

[recipe_title]Fruit Kabobs Flambe[/recipe_title]

(Serves eight to ten)

[recipe]3/4 cup Cointreau, Grand Marnier or Corange[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons honey[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash cinnamon[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large, firm bananas[/recipe]

[recipe]3 large, firm peaches[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 ripe pineapple, peeled and cored[/recipe]

Soak about 11/2 dozen bamboo skewers in cold water for 1 hour. Combine 1/2 cup liqueur, honey and cinnamon. Set remaining 1/4 cup liqueur where it will warm slightly. Cut bananas into 1-in. chunks and cut each peach into 8 slices. Cut pineapple into 1-in. cubes. String 4 to 6 pieces fruit on each skewer. Dip skewers into liqueur-honey mixture and turn to coat fruit on all sides. Grill 5 minutes, turning, or until fruit is lightly glazed. Place skewers on shallow heatproof platter. Ignite warmed liqueur and pour flaming over fruit. Serve when flames burn out.

Note: You can use other high-proof liqueurs or combine liqueurs and brandy.

Shish kabob is a Turkish word, or, rather, two words. Shish is the pointed metal rod on which chunks of meat, kabobs, are threaded and grilled. Get the point?

"Skewer cookery originated and grew because it was easy, convenient and satisfying."