The Party's Not Over!

Chances are you'll have a helluva New Year's Eve and, after cutting a few Zs, awake refreshed and ready to boogie some more. Contrary to the old adage, Playboy believes you can't have too much of a good thing. So why not extend the holiday spirit a bit longer, with a New Year's Day open house? If you can't con a ladyfriend into tossing the bash, square your shoulders, man, and assume the duty yourself.

It needn't be a chore--if you do it right. An open house can be smart without being complicated; sybaritic simplicity is the watchword. You don't want anything too commonplace. That goes for the snacks and other sustenance, wines, spirits and the obligatory reviver. This once, forgo the ubiquitous bloody mary and offer a more distinctive pick-me-up. The two given here, one with gin, the other based on brandy, not only taste good but, (continued on page 276)The Party's not Over!(continued from page 135) allegedly, do good as well. There's also black velvet--champagne and stout--or steely, iced brut champagne, preferably a grande marque in honor of the day. And do see to it that the bourbon, Scotch, vodka, rum and liqueurs you serve are all top shelf.

We'll leave the drink nibbles to you--but if you intersperse the nuts and pretzels with tinypickled whole corn, black Nicoise olives and spiced quail eggs, your guests will brighten up noticeably.

Although they're handy, cold platters aren't going to excite anyone--if you have the usual assortment. But it needn't be boiled ham, Swiss cheese and Genoa salami again, when there's Grisons, the zesty, air-dried beef filet from Switzerland, savory capocollo, smoked eel and sensuous taleggio, Italy's answer to camembert. Smoked salmon is no novelty, of course, but the Icelandic breed, relatively new to the States, is a mite smokier than most--and a nice counterpoint to Scotch. As the day wears on and appetites sharpen, bring on the Caviar Cheese Bar, Bagna Cauda, Chicken Wings Lucifer and Soused Shrimp. And for your piece de résistance, an Oriental dish that's both stylish and satisfying, Cold Pork Cellophane Noodles. All are easy to do and may be prepared ahead.

Dessert can be as simple as panettone and chilled asti spumante, a Roman holiday custom. Coupe Spumante plays off that ambrosial combination, but it's more festive. Panettone also complements George Washington's Eggnog, as does Lebkuchen.

The final ingredient? Good-time people--as many as you care to invite. Better get on that detail now!

[recipe_title]Caviar Cheese Bar[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. (2.8-oz. bars) cream cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]4-oz jar red caviar[/recipe]

[recipe]Scallions (including green), finely chopped[/recipe]

Put cheese bars on serving plate and spoon caviar over. Surround with chopped scallions. Serve with sour rye bread, dark pumpernicked or unsalted crackers.

[recipe_title]Bagna Cauda[/recipe_title]

(serves about eight)

[recipe]1/2 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter[/recipe]

[recipe]6 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2-oz. can flat anchovy fillets, drained, finely chopped[/recipe]

Raw vegetables: broccoli florets, cauliflower buds, carrot sticks, green and red pepper strips, globe radishes, sliced black radishes, Jerusalem artichokes, zucchini, celery, etc.

Combine olive oil and butter in small, heavy pan and set over very low heat. When butter has melted, add garlic and anchovies. Stir often until anchovies dissolve, keeping heat very low, so that neither butter nor garlic browns. Transfer to shallow heatproof bowl. Set on hot tray or over candle warmer to keep warm. Serve with crisp raw vegetables, for dipping.

[recipe_title]Soused Shrimp[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]2 lbs. raw shrimps, in shell[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cans dark beer[/recipe]

Seasoning: celery rib, sprig parsley, small onion, clove garlic, bay leaf, 2 teaspoons salt

[recipe]2 large onions, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons capers[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]3--4 grinds black pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]3--4 dashes Tabasco, or to taste[/recipe]

Slit shrimp shells up the back. Rinse out sand vein, but do not peel. Bring beer and seasoning to boil; simmer 5 minutes. Add shrimps. When liquid returns to simmer, cook 3 to 6 minutes--just until shrimps turn pink. Drain, then layer shrimps with sliced onions and capers in deepdish. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over shrimps. Cover dish and refrigerate at least24 hours. Serve shrimps unpeeled, but provide bowl for shells.

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[recipe_title]Chicken Wings Lucifer[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]3 lbs. chicken wings[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup Dijon mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup Italian-seasoned bread crumbs[/recipe]

Cut off and discard wing tips; separate wings at joint and cut away excess skin. Mix mustard with wine. Lightly spread wing pieces with mixture, then coat with crumbs. Arrange wings in single layer in very well-oiled shallow baking pan. (You may need more than one pan.) Bake in preheated 400° oven for 15 minutes, turn pieces and bake 15 minutes more. Serve warm. If wings are done ahead, cool completely, then refrigerate. To re-crisp before serving, put wings in oiled pan and place in oven, set at highest heat, for about 7 minutes.

[recipe_title]Cold Pork Cellophane Noodles[/recipe_title]

(Serves six to eight)

[recipe]Dressing: 3/4 cup rice vinegar, 1/4 cup soy sauce, 2 tablespoons salad oil, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 3-4 grinds black pepper, 11/2 teaspoons each sesame oil, grated fresh ginger[/recipe]

[recipe]8 ozs. cellophane noodles (also called rice noodles or rice sticks)[/recipe]

[recipe]11/2 lbs. roast pork, cut in l1/2"x1/4" strips (about 4 cups)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. raw mushrooms, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions (including some green), sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 package (10 ozs.) frozen peas[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cashews, coarsely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]Cherry tomatoes[/recipe]

Combine dressing ingredients and mix well. Pour about half the dressing into large bowl and set remainder aside. Bring large pot of water to boil; add cellophane noodles. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, or just until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain well. Add to bowl with dressing; stir to coat. Add pork, mushrooms, cucumber and scallions. Cook peas until barely done. Rinse in cold water, drain and mix into bowl. Stir in enough additional dressing so that everything is well moistened. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Stir well; transfer to serving bowl. Sprinkle with cashews and put ring of cherry tomatoes around rim.

Note: Rice vinegars vary in acidity, so if yours is extra-sharp, you may want to adda little more sugar to dressing.

[recipe_title]Coupes Spumante[/recipe_title]

(Serves 12)

[recipe]1 pint strawberries, washed and hulled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. Grand Marnier[/recipe]

[recipe]Sugar, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (17 ozs.) apricot halves, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (20 ozs.) pineapple chunks, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup green grapes, seedless or seeded[/recipe]

Asti spumante, chilled

Toss strawberries with Grand Marnier and little sugar, if necessary. Drain apricots and pineapple. Layer apricots, grapes, pineapple and strawberries in attractive glass bowl. Open asti spumante and stand it in ice bucket next to fruit. Spoon fruit into wineglasses and splash spumante over. Serve with slice panettone.

[recipe_title]Snake Charmer I[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. gin[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Cointreau[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Lillet[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash Pernod[/drinkRecipe]

Shake with ice; strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with orange slice.

[recipe_title]Snake Charmer II[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon grenadine[/drinkRecipe]

Chilled champagne (brut or extra-dry)

Shake brandy, lemon juice and grenadine with ice; strain into 6-oz. wineglass. Splash in champagne, to taste.

[recipe_title]George Washington's Eggnog[/recipe_title]

(Serves 15)

[drinkRecipe]6 egg yolks[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. dark rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. cream sherry[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 quart half-and-half (cream and milk)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 egg whites[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Freshly grated nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Beat egg yolks with1/2 cup sugar in large bowl, until thick and light yellow. Very gradually beat in spirits, then sherry, then half-and-half. In separate bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Gradually add 2 tablespoons sugar, continuing to beat until whites are stiff. Slide whites onto top of yolk mixture. Using large spoon, turn nog gently from top to bottom, with circular motion. Stop as soon as no large dumps of white can be seen. Refrigerate several hours to mellow. Stir very gently before serving and top with grated nutmeg.

These arrangements are so flexible, and so accommodating, that you can issue last-minute invitations to friends you've overlooked, and make unexpected drop-ins feel welcome. A nice note on which to start the new year!

"As the day wears on and appetites sharpen, bring on the Caviar Cheese Bar and Soused Shrimp."