Spice from the East

While Self-Proclaimed Epicures were busy tracking the vast complexities of Chinese gastronomy from Cantonese to Hunanese, or mastering the intricacies of Japanese sushi and sashimi, other Oriental cuisines have quietly taken root here. In case you haven't noticed, there has been a flowering of Thai, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants, and their appearance is welcome. Neophytes won't find these viands totally strange, since all bear Chinese characteristics--a product of geographical propinquity and the historic tendency of the Chinese to acculturate neighboring lands. Many cooking techniques are similar and a number of seasonings are (continued on page 130)Spice from the East(continued from page 115) familiar: fresh ginger, garlic, scallions and coriander leaves, among others. Nevertheless, each is distinctive in its own way.

Thai cuisine, with its incandescent spiciness, is kindling the admiration of fire-eaters--and aficionados of Mexican, Szechwan-Hunan and Indian fare. Thai food, in fact, has been influenced by Indian cuisine, but, like Mr. Sinatra, Thai cooks do it their way, tempering hot spices with coconut cream, peanuts and such aromatic herbs as lemon grass, basil and mint. They counterpose crisp with tender and play sweet against sour; and nam pla--a salty, fermented fish sauce--turns up in most dishes. At a traditional Thai meal, all courses are presented simultaneously, accompanied by pungent relishes called nam prik. Diners take a nibble of this and a nubbin of that, creating their own combinations of flavor and texture, adding a dollop of nam prik to turn up the heat. Most dinners include at least one noodle dish, a category held in such high esteem that shops devoted solely to noodles are Thai hallmarks.

Vietnam lies closer to China, and so does its cooking. There are also traces of the long French occupation. In fact, a Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco calls itself Cordon Blue, no doubt trading on the French connection. Vietnamese food is more delicate than Chinese and less spicy than Thai, using many of the same herbs. The most prevalent seasoning is nuoc mam, a fish sauce akin to the Thai nam pla. A particular Viet treat is the do-it-yourself packet. You wrap morsels of meat or seafood, cucumber, crunchy bean sprouts, rice or noodles and fresh herbs in translucent rice paper or a lettuce leaf, dunk it in a savory sauce and gobble. The mélange of tastes and textures makes for a delightfully satisfying snack or meal.

Korean food depends on soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, vinegar, garlic, ginger, red pepper and almost always a touch of sugar. With China up north and Japan just to the east, Korea has drawn inspiration from both. However, kim chee, an assertive vegetable pickle that doubles as relish and salad, is uniquely Korean. It's served at every meal and its aroma pervades Korea--sometimes overwhelming Western olfactory sensibilities. Versions of kim chee in American-Korean restaurants are said to be anemic compared with authentic Seoul food, but they do give some indication of its verve. Korean fare is robust, not surprising in a country known for its bitter winters. Beef and other meats are often charcoal broiled. But don't look for inch-thick sirloin steaks in a Korean restaurant. Instead, boneless cuts are thinly sliced, steeped in savory marinades and briefly grilled. Sautéed meat-and-vegetable combinations, reminiscent both of Japanese sukiyaki and of Chinese stir-fried dishes, are popular, too.

Thai, Korean and Vietnamese cooks are cheerfully individualistic and few, if any, work from neatly written recipes. Instead, they measure by eye, touch and taste--improvising adventurously. "We never used broccoli at home," confided one Korean cook, "because we didn't have it; but here we use it all the time." So substitute without qualm if you can't locate every ingredient in the recipes that follow. Use light soy sauce for fish sauce, grated or slivered lemon rind for lemon grass, dried herbs for fresh, and canned chilies, red-pepper flakes or Tabasco sauce for fresh chili peppers. The taste won't be identical, but it never is away from the homeland.

You can usually find fish sauce, dried lemon grass and even kim chee in Oriental food shops. Fresh ginger and coriander leaves--also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley--are available in Oriental and Hispanic markets, where you'll also find assorted chili peppers. Specialty food shops and department stores are other sources and Siam Grocery, 2745 Broadway, New York, New York 10025, and The Chinese Grocer, 209 Post Street, San Francisco, California 94108, fill mail orders for some things.

[recipe_title]Mee Krob[/recipe_title]

(Thai Fried Noodles)

(Serves three to four)

[recipe]Oil for frying[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. rice noodles (also called rice sticks)[/recipe]

[recipe]3-4 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small onion, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. lean boneless pork--cut into strips l/8 in. thick, 14 in. wide, 2 ins. long[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. shrimps--shelled, deveined and cut into l/2-in. pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]1 fresh cake bean curd, thinly sliced(optional)[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice and slivered rind of 1 large lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons each fish sauce, tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]|/4 lb. bean sprouts, washed and drained[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions (including about 2 ins. green part), sliced lengthwise[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lemon, cut in wedges[/recipe]

[recipe]1 fresh red chili pepper, seeded and slivered[/recipe]

Before starting, prepare all ingredients as described above. Heat about 2 ins. oil in wok or deep skillet. Toss in small handful rice noodles. They will crackle and start to puff out. Fry about 1 minute, then turn them over and fry about 1/2 minute more, until they are light brown and stop crackling. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with another handful, then another, until all are done. Pour off all but about 3 tablespoons oil. Add garlic and onion; cook, stirring, about 1 minute. Add pork; cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add shrimps and bean curd; cook, stirring, about 3 minutes. Add lemon juice and rind, fish sauce, tomato paste, vinegar and sugar; cook, stirring, about 3 minutes. Gently mix in fried noodles, a little at a time. Mound noodle mixture on large platter and arrange bean sprouts around it. Garnish with scallions, lemon wedges and red pepper.

Note: Handle chili pepper with care. Don't touch your eyes or face while preparing it, and wash your hands afterward.

[recipe_title]Cua Cuong[/recipe_title]

(Vietnamese Crab Rolls)

(Appetizers for four to six)

[recipe]6-oz. package frozen Alaska snow-crab meat, thawed[/recipe]

[recipe]Small handful rice noodles (prepared as in preceding recipe)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. bean sprouts[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons fish sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large clove garlic, mashed[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]Dipping sauce: 1/4 cup hoisin sauce, 1 teaspoon each chopped fresh mint and basil leaves, 2 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts, 1 teaspoon rice vinegar, 2--3 dashes Tabasco[/recipe]

[recipe]6 rice-paper rounds (approximately)[/recipe]

[recipe]Lettuce leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]Fresh mint and coriander leaves[/recipe]

Drain crab meat very well. Prepare rice noodles. Place bean sprouts in colander or large strainer. Pour boiling water over them, then rinse in cold water. Drain very well. Combine crab meat, rice noodles and bean sprouts. Add fish sauce, garlic and sugar. Stir well. Combine dipping-sauce ingredients. Lay rice-paper round on damp dish towel. Mist with water spray or sprinkle with water until well moistened. Cover round with (continued on page 236)Spice from the East(continued from page 130) ends of towel or with another damp towel, until rice paper is completely pliable. Place lettuce leaf on one side of rice paper. Put about 1/4 cup crab-meat mixture on lettuce, spreading so that it is 3 to 4 ins. long. Top with couple of mint and coriander leaves. Fold bottom and top ends of rice paper over filling, then roll up tightly lengthwise. Repeat with additional rice-paper rounds until filling mixture is used. Serve with dipping sauce.

Note: These rolls are also delicious fried. Leave out lettuce leaf, but otherwise fill and roll as directed above. Fry in hot oil for 4 to 5 minutes, turning once, until crisp and brown. Wrap fried rolls in lettuce leaves before serving.

[recipe_title]Tom Yam Kung (Thai Lemon Shrimp Soup)[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

[recipe]1 1b. shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]7 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon dried lemon grass (or 4 strips lemon peel, 3 ins. long)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup fish sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]3 scallions (including green), thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons finely chopped coriander leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]1 fresh green chili pepper, seeded and slivered[/recipe]

Shell and devein shrimps. Bring water to boil in stainless-steel or enamel saucepan. Add shrimp shells, lemon grass or peel and cayenne pepper; simmer 10 minutes. Add lemon juice and fish sauce; simmer 5 minutes more. Strain liquid into another pan and return to boil. Add shrimps and simmer 3 to 5 minutes, just until pink. Add scallions, coriander leaves and chili slivers. Serve at once.

[recipe_title]Bun Thit Nuong (Vietnamese Beef-Lettuce Rolls)[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]1 1b. lean, tender, boneless beef Marinade: 2 tablespoons fish sauce, 1 tablespoon salad oil, 1--2 mashed cloves garlic, 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

Small handful rice noodles (about 1 oz.)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small cucumber (do not peel unless skin has been waxed)[/recipe]

[recipe]Dipping sauce: 3/4 cup fish sauce, 3 tablespoons each lemon juice and water, 2 tablespoons sugar, 2 mashed cloves garlic, 1/2 slivered hot red pepper, 2 tablespoons slivered raw carrot[/recipe]

[recipe]Soft lettuce leaves (Boston or butter lettuce)[/recipe]

Fresh basil, mint and coriander leaves

Cut beef into very thin slices, then into 1-in. squares. Mix marinade ingredients, combine with beef and let stand about 1/2 hour. Bring pot of water to boil; add rice noodles; boil 2 to 3 minutes, or just until tender. Drain and rinse immediately in cold water. Drain again, very thoroughly. Cut noodles in 1-in. pieces. Cut cucumber in half lengthwise, then cut each half in thin crosswise slices. Combine dipping-sauce ingredients. Slide squares of marinated beef onto moistened bamboo skewers. Push slices very tightly together until each skewer holds about 3 ins. meat. Broil skewers about 2 minutes, turning once. To eat, slide broiled beef off skewer onto lettuce leaf, top with rice noodles, cucumber slices and herb leaves. Roll up lettuce and dunk packet in dipping sauce.

[recipe_title]Wan Ja (Korean Hamburgers)[/recipe_title]

(Serves two to three)

[recipe]1 lb. lean ground beef[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely chopped onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds Flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water[/recipe]

[recipe]1--2 tablespoons sesame or salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]Sauce: Combine 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 teaspoon honey, 2--3 dashes Tabasco, 1 finely chopped scallion[/recipe]

Combine beef with soy sauce, pepper, onion and sesame seeds; form into about 12 small cakes. Coat each lightly with flour, then dip in egg-water mixture. Place each on rack set over plate until all hamburgers have been formed. Heat oil in large skillet. Fry hamburgers about 2 minutes on each side. Serve with sauce.

[recipe_title]Kim Chee[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 head Chinese cabbage[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. white turnip, peeled[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions (including green), sliced in l-1/2-in. lengths[/recipe]

[recipe]1--2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon cayenne pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Cold water[/recipe]

Cut cabbage into 2-in. squares. Cut turnip lengthwise, then crosswise into thin slices. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons salt and mix well. Let stand about 20 minutes. Rinse well in cold water; drain. Mix in remaining tablespoon salt, scallions, garlic, ginger and cayenne pepper. Transfer to 1-quart jar. Add enough cold water to cover vegetables, leaving 1/2 in. headroom at top. Cover jar and store in cool place several days or until mixture is sufficiently sharp. Refrigerate. Ideal place for storing kim chee as it's ripening is in cool shed--apart from house. If you lack such facilities, you're on your own.

[recipe_title]Dak Bokum (Korean Braised Chicken)[/recipe_title]

(Serves three to four)

[recipe]3 medium-size dried Oriental mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb. boned and skinned chicken breast, cut into 2" x 1/4" strips[/recipe]

[recipe]Marinade: 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 1 teaspoon sugar, 2 crushed cloves garlic, 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, several grinds pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sesame or vegetable oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 small carrots, peeled and shredded[/recipe]

[recipe]1 green pepper, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons chicken broth or bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. zucchini, shredded[/recipe]

[recipe]2--3 scallions (including green), thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds[/recipe]

Everything should be cut up, ready to go, before starting to cook. Soak mushrooms in hot water for about 20 minutes. Cover chicken strips with marinade; let stand about 20 minutes. Drain mushrooms and cut into thin strips, discarding stems. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in wok or skillet. Add chicken and cook, stirring, until pieces turn opaque. Remove thicken from pan. Add remaining tablespoon oil to pan; add mushrooms, onion, carrots, green pepper. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add broth, cover pan; cook 2 minutes more. Return chicken to pan; add zucchini, scallions and sesame seeds. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes more. Serve with rice.

The marinade for this classic Korean dish is from Arirang House, one of New York's oldest Korean restaurants.

[recipe_title]Kalbi Kui[/recipe_title]

(Broiled Short Ribs)

(Serves three to four)

[recipe]3 lbs. beef short ribs[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup beef broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup Mirin wine or cocktail sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon sesame oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]4 scallions (including some green), finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]Several grinds black pepper[/recipe]

Have short ribs chopped into 2-1/2-to-3-in. squares. Trim excess fat, then make deep crisscross slashes in meat, almost to bone. Marinate ribs for at least 1 hour in mixture of remaining ingredients. Remove ribs from marinade and broil on charcoal grill, turning occasionally to brown all sides, until medium rare, about 15 minutes. (Overcooking tends to toughen meat.)

These cuisines are allegedly so sensuous that Oriental businessmen customarily rush off to massage parlors for dessert. Betcha Fannie Farmer never heard of that!

"Thai cooks do it their way, tempering hot spices with coconut cream, peanuts and aromatic herbs."

"Thai, Korean and Vietnamese cooks are cheerfully individualistic and few work from recipes."

How to Read Thai, Korean and Vietnamese Menus

While menu items often have explanatory subtitles, the definitions given below should be of further help in cluing you in to popular dishes and styles of preparation. Since spelling is phonetic, listings may vary from restaurant to restaurant. In Thai restaurants, be sure to ask which dishes are extra spicy, if they're not marked with a star or another symbol.

Thai

Gai Pad Kaprow: Chicken sautéed with basil and chili.

Kaw Pad: Fried rice.

Kung Pad Ped: Shrimps sautéed with curry, coconut milk.

Moo Pad Prik: Pork sautéed with hot chili and onion.

Neau Pad King: Beef sautéed with ginger.

Pad Thai: Sautéed rice noodles with shrimps, bean curd, bean sprouts, egg.

Pla Jain: Whole red snapper tried with shredded pork, mushrooms, ginger.

Tod Mun Pla: Fried minced kingfish, seasoned with curry; served with cucumber sauce.

Yam Neau: Salad of sliced beef; dressing seasoned with lemon grass, lemon or lime juice, chili.

Korean

Dak Chim: Chicken sautéed and served with sweet-and-sour sauce.

Kujol Pan: Thin pancakes served with selection of fillings--beef shreds, shredded vegetables, bean sprouts, etc.; sometimes presented in compartmented dish. Also, a single filled pancake.

Mandu Kuk: Dumplings in broth.

Mandu Tuikim: Dumplings filled with meat and vegetables and fried.

Pul Koki: Thin strips of beef, marinated in soy-sesame sauce and grilled.

Saewu Tuikim: Batter-fried butterflied shrimps.

San Juk: Grilled skewered beef and vegetables; seasoning similar to that of Pul Koki.

Sin Sul Lo: Angel Pot, similar to Chinese hot pot, filled with layers of meats and vegetables in seasoned broth. Cooking finished at table.

Vietnamese

Banh Pâté Chaud: Well-seasoned ground beef in patty shell (French influence).

Banh Xeo: Shrimp-and-pork pancake. Name refers to sizzling sound of frying pancake.

Cha Gio: Imperial Roll--similar to Chinese egg roll but more delicate. Filling wrapped in rice paper, fried, then rolled in lettuce leaf with condiments.

Com Chien: Fried rice. Name is followed by principal ingredient--ga, chicken; bo, beef; tom, shrimps; xac xiu, pork.

Ga Rut Xuong: Boneless chicken stuffed with pâté-like filling; garnished with raw vegetables.

Mi Xao: Fried noodles. Name is followed by principal ingredient, as in Com Chien.

Pho Ga: Beef noodle soup. Broth, noodles, fresh vegetables and seasonings are assembled just before serving.