Puttin' on the Zits!

The ancient Toltecs and Aztecs considered chocolate a food of the gods, bestowed on earthlings by the great god Quetzalcoatl. To Madame Du Barry, chocolate was the food of love, which she fed to suitors to fan their ardor. Actor James Coco, a confessed chocoholic, has a delicious fantasy--being immersed in a vat of Godiva chocolate and having to eat his way out. Almost as fanciful, a Chocolate Lovers Tour of Switzerland offers nine caloric days of sampling the nation's famed confections for $1354. If all this suggests an excess of passion, then you don't know chocolate freaks. They eat, drink and breathe chocolate; they cook with it, discuss it, read about it avidly--and volumes have been written on the subject. Indeed, a newsletter, Chocolate News, was launched this year, with plenty of subscribers. To many zealots, chocolate is not just a good gobble but a sensuous experience as well. They respond to packaging, presentation, the artistry of a pattern and design of a particular piece. They have definite tastes, preferring dark to milk chocolate, bittersweet to sweet, imported to domestic, filled rather than solid, and they want a high proportion of chocolate to filling, not a thin robe. Buffs look for chocolate with rich, delicate and costly Criollo cocoa beans from Venezuela and Guatemala represented generously in the blend. Such absorption inevitably brings to mind the wine lover's obsession with vintages, vineyards and grape varieties. But there's one significant difference. When tasting, an oenophile sometimes swishes wine over his tongue, then expectorates. It would take a Heimlich maneuver to make a chocophile surrender a mouthful of chocolate.

Devotees are always pleased to learn that the cocoa bean is native to our hemisphere--a beautiful American. It was prized by Mexican Indians as a source of energy, wisdom, strength, courage and a rare aphrodisiac. Aztec honcho Montezuma II invariably quaffed xocoatl from a golden chalice, as he ambled to the harem. Records indicate that Montezuma downed 50 cups of the stuff a day. Casanova and the Marquis de Sade also believed in chocolate's erotic properties, while clerics denounced it as "immoral and provocative of immorality." But it was not too long ago that a couple of hip medics at the New York State Psychiatric Institute detected a logical connection between chocolate and amour. Cocoa beans, it seems, are rich in phenelethylamine, a moodaltering chemical that can induce giddy feelings akin to love.

Though a sensation in its day, the crude early chocolate was not in the same league with the suave confection produced by modern refining techniques. After the pod is severed from the tree, it is steamed and split. Then the cocoa beans, actually seeds, are fermented, dried, roasted, cleaned, shelled and ground to a paste. This "chocolate liquor" is kneaded and tempered until lustrous and velvety. In effect, they have to beat the hell out of it before cocoa will release its heady treasures.

European confectioners go in for extended "conching," a process of kneading the paste with heavy rollers that imparts the supple elegance enthusiasts prize. Belgian and Swiss chocolates are generally regarded as best of breed. The Belgians are artisans, hand sculpting diminutive pieces that combine visual grace with intense cream and praline centers. Swiss chocolates, containing more milk and cocoa butter, are silky, light and fairly sweet--dissolving easily on the tongue. Italian and Dutch chocolates, on the other hand, are dark and pungent. The Dutch are alkalized to deepen color and flavor and increase solubility. Italians are innovative chocolatiers. They formulated the first solid chocolate--appropriately, in the shape of a salami, and the Gianduiotto--a crunchy mixture of hazelnuts and caramelized sugar, usually layered and swathed in chocolate. English chocolates are very sweet, often with garish centers. Cadbury is the world's largest chocolate supplier, but Bendicks products have more appeal. For all their flair with other fare, the French produce undistinguished bonbons. Another melancholy note--some smashing European chocolates are banned from these shores because of their spirit content. The rationale is that we're protecting kiddies who might inadvertently sample them and become instant alcoholics.

Even without this bonanza of imports, the United States is no chocolate wasteland; not with such confectioners as Le Chocolatier, a Swiss tailor who fashions superb confections in the back of his store, and Godiva, Krön, Edelweiss and other local specialty shops. Nor is it a punishment to munch the likes of Heath's milk chocolate, Wilbur's Buds, See's Peanut Crunch and Fannie May's black nougat or maple nut. Serious chocologists should also investigate Peter's Viking Bar, a ten-pound item out of Nestlé--and a superior piece of chocolate.

While confections, pastries and cocoa drinks will satisfy most chocolate hungers, chocolate junkies also get off on Pichónes Estofados, Turkey Mole and Chicken Sebastopol, birds zapped with tangy chocolate sauces; New Yorkers crave egg cream, a synergistic mélange of chocolate syrup, milk, seltzer and nostalgia; chili heads know grated bitter chocolate is the secret of a great chili; Giordano, a spiffy Manhattan bistro, has homemade chocolate pasta in a creamy, nutmeg-flecked Alfredo sauce showered with walnuts; and some votaries insist the ultimate chocolate experience is a voluptuous chocolate liqueur. These potions, called crèmes because of their high sugar content, may be enjoyed neat and on the rocks but are reserved primarily for mixed drinks. You'll find ample proof of chocolate's versatility and allure in the food-and-drink recipes that follow.

[recipe_title]Chicken Andalusia[/recipe_title]

(Serves four)

An adaptation of a Spanish dish usually made with small game birds

[recipe]2 or 3 whole chicken breasts (depending on size), split[/recipe]

[recipe]Flour, seasoned with salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]16--20 medium-size mushroom caps[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size onions, coarsely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup chicken broth or bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cocktail sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. (1/2 square) unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons tomato paste[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]2 canned pimientos, rinsed and slivered[/recipe]

Remove skin from chicken-breast halves. Dust chicken with seasoned flour. Heat oil in large, deep skillet and brown chicken pieces and mushroom caps; remove from pan. Add onion and garlic; sauté just until softened, 2 or 3 minutes. Add chicken broth, sherry and bay leaf; bring to boil. Return chicken pieces to pan and spoon liquid over them. Cover pan, reduce heat and simmer about 25 minutes, or until chicken is tender. Remove chicken pieces to heated platter and keep warm. Discard bay leaf. Add chocolate, tomato paste and mushroom caps to pan. Stir over low heat until chocolate has melted; do not boil. Salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce and mushroom caps over chicken and garnish with pimiento slivers. Good with rice.

Note: If you prefer chicken thighs and drumsticks, increase cooking time by about 10 minutes.

[recipe_title]Chocolate Truffles[/recipe_title]

(About three dozen)

A different kind of truffle, served only at Cellar in the Sky--a different kind of dining room--at New York's Windows on the World.

[recipe]9 ozs. semisweet chocolate[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sweet butter[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. Grand Marnier or other liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 lb. semisweet chocolate, for coating[/recipe]

Melt chocolate over hot (not boiling) water. Be very careful not to get drops of water in chocolate. Temperature of chocolate should not exceed 96° Fahrenheit. To test, place drop beneath lower lip. At correct temperature, you should not feel heat or cold. Combine cream, butter and sugar in saucepan; bring to boil. Remove from heat immediately. Stir in liqueur; fold in chocolate. Chill just until mixture stiffens. Remove from refrigerator and stir until color lightens. Put mixture in pastry bag with plain round tip and squeeze out onto wax paper in small balls, or portion out by taking heaping teaspoonful of mixture (continued on page 209) Puttin' on the Zits! (continued from page 138) and pushing it off with another teaspoon. Place in refrigerator until firm. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and round each ball by rolling between palms. Melt chocolate for coating in double boiler, observing procedure given above. Spoon melted chocolate on hands--about I tablespoon for each palm. Roll formed balls around in palms until coated with chocolate. The thicker the outer covering, the better the truffle will taste. Place on wax paper to dry and cool. If you like, chocolate-covered balls may be rolled in unsweetened cocoa or confectioners' sugar.

Note: Windows prefers Peter's Viking chocolate for both center and coating. If that's unavailable, it suggests Tobler's semisweet or other good solid chocolate, such as Krön or Van Leer, Do not use chocolate bits, which are better for other purposes.

[recipe_title]Mousse D'Hiver[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

A rather unusual white mousse that takes its name from the snows of winter.

[recipe]2 bars (3 ozs. each) Toblerone white chocolate[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup milk[/recipe]

[recipe]2 egg whites[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. crème de cacao, white[/recipe]

[recipe]1-oz. square semisweet chocolate[/recipe]

Break chocolate bars into small pieces and place in heat proof bowl. Add milk. Melt slowly over hot (not boiling) water, stirring with wooden spoon. When melted, remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Beat egg whites with lemon juice until stiff. With rubber spatula, gently fold in chocolate mixture. Whip cream with white crème de cacao until soft peaks form. Very slowly, fold into chocolate-and-egg-white mixture. Transfer to serving bowl or individual dessert dishes. Chill 2 to 3 hours. Have semisweet chocolate at room temperature. Shave off curls with vegetable peeler. Garnish mousse with chocolate curls before serving.

[recipe_title]Chocolate raspberry Fondue[/recipe_title]

(Serves four to six)

Variation on a theme performed at the Swiss Center Restaurant in Manhattan.

[recipe]8 ozs. semisweet chocolate, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. raspberry liqueur or other fruit liqueur[/recipe]

Bite-size fresh fruit: strawberries, raspberries, orange segments, banana chunks, apple or pear wedges, pineapple cubes, etc.

Pitted dates or prunes, dried apricots, small figs

Cake cubes

Put chocolate in fondue pot. Add cream and liqueur. Melt over low heat, stirring until smooth. Keep warm over very low heat. Provide fondue forks or bamboo picks for dipping fresh fruit, dried fruit and cake cubes into chocolate. (Moist napkins are a thoughtful accessory.)

[recipe_title]Chocolate Lagniappe[/recipe_title]

Chocolate and pears have a marvelous affinity for each other, readily apparent in this simple, elegant, dinner finale. Serve chilled pear brandy and/or pear liqueur with an assortment of chocolate pieces--perhaps milk chocolate, bittersweet chocolate and truffles. It's interesting to compare various combinations of spirits and chocolates to find the pairing most pleasing to you. To get the most out of the bouquet, the brandy and liqueur should be lightly chilled, not icy, and served in small wineglasses rather than the thimble-sized pony glass customary for liqueur.

[recipe_title]Alexander the Greatest[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. crème de cacao, dark[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1 scoop vanilla ice cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup finely crushed ice[/recipe]

Combine all ingredients in chilled blender container. Buzz until barely smooth. Pour into large stemmed goblet. Sprinkle lightly with cocoa powder, if desired.

[recipe_title]Chocolate Julep[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. crème de cacao, dark[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 oz. crème de menthe[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]Strip lemon peel[/recipe]

[recipe]Club soda, chilled[/recipe]

Pack highball glass with crushed ice. Combine liqueurs and bourbon and pour into glass. Stir well. Twist lemon peel and add to glass. Add light splash of soda, to taste. Stir once and serve.

[recipe_title]Brown Belt[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. crème de cacao, dark[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. vodka[/recipe]

Shake briskly with ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.

Note: For a drier drink, increase proportion of vodka.

[recipe_title]Cherry Velvet[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 1/2 ozs. chocolate-cherry liqueur or Cheri-Suisse[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. crème de bananes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/4 ozs, light cream[/recipe]

Shake vigorously with cracked ice. Pour unstrained into chilled goblet. Garnish with cherry, if desired.

[recipe_title]White Hat[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 ozs. crème de cacao, white[/recipe]

[recipe]Cold milk, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Cinnamon[/recipe]

Pour liqueur over ice in highball glass. Stir. Add 2 or 3 ozs. milk, or to taste. Stir well. Dust lightly with cinnamon.

[recipe_title]Double Trouble[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 bottle (200 ml.) crème de cacao, dark[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bottle (200 ml.) arème de cacao, white[/recipe]

Stow small bottles in pockets, on either side. For sustenance and comfort at ball games, fishing expeditions and other sporting situations.

[recipe_title]Nutty Cocoa Punch[/recipe_title]

(Serves six)

[recipe]1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 quart milk[/recipe]

[recipe]8 ozs. chocolate-amaretto liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon vanilla[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup whipped cream[/recipe]

In saucepan, combine cocoa, sugar and I cup milk. Cook to simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly. Cool, then chill. Pour cocoa mixture into pitcher; beat in remaining milk, liqueur and vanilla. Serve in chilled glasses, topping each portion with heaping tablespoon whipped cream.

[recipe_title]Chocolate Sting[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. Vandermint or other chocolatemint liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. California brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]Shake vigorously with ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.[/recipe]

[recipe]Upper-income Egg Cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 ozs. crème de cacao, dark[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. Swiss chocolate-almond or chocolate-amaretto liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. milk[/recipe]

[recipe]Seltzer or club soda, chilled[/recipe]

Pour both liqueurs over ice in highball glass. Stir. Add splash of milk, to taste. Stir well, Top with seltzer from siphon bottle, or club soda. Stir quickly and serve.

[recipe_title]Bittersweet Mist[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Orange zest[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. bittersweet-chocolate liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 slice orange[/recipe]

Pack champagne coupe with finely crushed ice. Cut small piece orange peel, zest only; twist it and poke under ice. Pour liqueur into glass and agitate carefully with small spoon or stin rod. Garnish with half slice orange. Serve with short straws.

In Mayan society, ten cocoa beans bought the services of a woman for lustful purposes. Imagine what you can do with a ten-pound Peter's Viking Bar or an assortment from "Playboy's Guide to Rich Chocolates"!

Playboy's Guide to Rich Chocolates

You won't find the more interesting chocolate offerings at local supermarkets or newsstands; they're rather delicate and costly. However, those listed below can be ordered by mail. Shipping charges run about three dollars per unit, but write for a catalog with descriptions and precise mailorder instructions. Caution: Don't order between May first and September 30, as chocolate is susceptible to heat and humidity. (Favorite items listed for each source.)

Belgian Chocolates

Bruyerre: Amboise--white coating, ground hazelnut fill; Almondine--almond-crunch fill, almond-chip garnish; Diane--chocolate basket, caramelized sugar and nut fill. $14 lb. R. H. Macy. Herald Square, New York, New York 10001. Attention: Candy Department.

Corne De La Toison D'or: Marzipan fill; praline creams; coffee creams. $19 Ib, Bloomingdale's Au Chocolat, 1000 Third Avenue, New York, New York 10022.

Godiva Belgian Chocolates: BÛche ("Log")--dark-chocolate coating around filbert butter and milk-chocolate fill. $1.75. Cartridges--rich, trufflelike chocolate laced with ground filberts. $16. Golf Balls--crisp, chewy confection robed in milk chocolate. $9. Godiva, 701 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10022.

Savernier: Fruit de Mer--white and dark-chocolate swirl with a buttercream fill, $14 Ib. R. H. Macy, Herald Square, New York, New York 10001. Attention: Candy Department.

Swiss Chocolates

Teuscher's: Creamy champagne truffles; nougat truffles; dark truffles dusted with cocoa. $18 Ib. 25 East 61st Street, New York, New York 10021.

Tobler: Milk, dark, mocha-flavored bars--solid or filled; Toblerone--dark or white triangular bars, laced with almond-and-honey nougat. Tobler is available at better sweet shops.

Italian Chocolates

Perugina: Gianduiotto--like Gianduja (ground hazelnuts and caramelized sugar); Baci ("kisses")--chopped and whole hazelnut center. $10 Ib. Louisa Bar--intense dark chocolate. 636 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10022.

American Chocolates

Godiva American Chocolates: Lion of Belgium--caramels and a hazelnut filling; Open Oyster--praline and soft chocolate center. Ballotin assortment contains one imported Gianduja. $12 Ib. 701 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10022.

Kron Chocolatier: Solid-chocolate scallop shells; chocolate-covered macadamia nuts; cherries in Grand Marnier. $20 Ib. Chocolate-dipped fresh fruits are not shipped, but try rolling your own with Krön's chocolate brick. $9 Ib. 506 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10022. Also in Chevy Chase, Maryland; Chicago, Illinois; Beverly Hills, Costa Mesa and San Francisco, California.

Le Chocolatier: Gianduja Praline; Carmen--layered marzipan, praline, dark-chocolate center; Java--espresso chocolate fill. $15 Ib. 843 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10021.

Nestle Bulk Chocolate Division: 100 Bloomingdale Road, White Plains, New York 10605. Write for local sources of 10-Ib). Peter's bars.

Vermonti: Chocolate Imperial--dense, moist, cakelike chocolate confection. $12 Ib. 35 Jane Street, New York, New York 10014.