Warm Regards

Far from being a drag, the White House ukase on lowering thermostats may herald a great leap forward in conviviality, at least if we take a page from history. Our forebears lived in damp, drafty houses with rudimentary heating systems, yet the rigors of winter held no terrors for them. Those canny types knew the perfect antidote to bleak weather-a lusty, steaming, scented hot drink and a snapping fire. In a pinch, they could forgo the blaze.

The lore of England is studded with tales of hot wassails, possets, caudles "made with sugar and sweet wyne" and hippocras-a hot spiced wine, favored by Chaucer. "Serve hit forth with wafurs both in chambur and Celle" was his precise directive. No wonder it was called merrie England.

Britain is by no means unique in the matter of hot potions. All lands with nasty climates have developed dandy ideas for coping with them. The Swedes have their glögg-hot spiced wine. Jouluglögi-a similar snort-helps Finns through their long, dark winter. Russians quaff zbiten-hot beer and honey. Guggle muggle, a Middle European soother, takes egg yolk, honey, hot milk and a nip of wisniak or whatever liquor happens to be around. Colonial stalwarts relied on the mollifying effects of hot buttered rums, hot toddies, flips and the dashingly titled Yard of Flannel-basically, a flip made in large quantities.

With the spread of central heating, hot drinks were given the cold shoulder-except at winter resorts. It's a real loss, because these brawny, fragrant sips are singularly satisfying. They engender warm feelings all the way down and put a glow on any gathering. Be sure to offer them at your holiday get-togethers. Recipes given here are a combination of modern and traditional, the latter adapted to contemporary palates. For a crash course on preparation, service and suitable munches, see our "Guide to Hot Cheers" at right.

[recipe_title]Colonial Mellowed Toddy[/recipe_title]

(16 servings)

Eighteenth Century hosts often prepared a toddy base in advance, so that the mixture could ripen and the flavors blend.

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. boiling water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (750 ml.) whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1/2 lemon, yellow zest only[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 allspice berries[/drinkRecipe]

Combine boiling water and sugar; stir to dissolve. Cool. In large bottle or decanter, combine whiskey, lemon peel, spices and sugar syrup. Cover and let stand 2 to 3 days to mellow, shaking once or twice a day. Strain and rebottle.

To make one drink: Pour 2 ozs. toddy mixture into warmed mug or large toddy glass with handle. Add 3 to 4 ozs. boiling water. Serve with rock-candy stirrer across top.

[recipe_title]Orsini's Sugar Bush Toddy[/recipe_title]

Another simple and somewhat unconventional toddy, courtesy of restaurateur-skier Armando Orsini.

[drinkRecipe]1 1/2 ozs. rock and rye liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. ginger liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes orange bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. boiling water, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Small wedge Bosc pear[/drinkRecipe]

Pour liqueurs and bitters into small warmed cup or toddy glass; add hot water. Spear pear wedge on pick and pop into glass.

[recipe_title]Lime Bishop[/recipe_title]

(12 to 15 servings)

[drinkRecipe]1 orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 or 4 cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles ruby port[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 cinnamon sticks[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lime, thinly sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 tablespoons sweetened lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

Stick orange with cloves, place on pie-pan. Roast in oven preheated to 350° Fahrenheit until rind turns light brown and heads of cloves powder. Meanwhile, combine wine, cinnamon sticks and lime slices in enamel pan and heat. Remove orange from oven, quarter and place in warmed punch bowl. Muddle orange sections moderately with potato masher or back of soupspoon. When wine mixture reaches simmer, add sweetened lime juice and brandy. Pour into punch bowl. Serve in stoneware mugs or heavy heatproof glasses.

[recipe_title]Bluecrass Milk Punch[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. light cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 ozs. Kentucky bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. peach-flavored brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Freshly grated nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Warm milk, cream and sugar in saucepan, stirring until hot. Pour bourbon and peach-flavored brandy into warmed mug or heavy heatproof glass. Add milk mixture, then vanilla; stir. Lightly sprinkle nutmeg over drink and serve.

[recipe_title]Hot Brick[/recipe_title]

(four servings)

[drinkRecipe]1 can (101/2 ozs.) condensed cream-of-mushroom soup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]7 ozs. water or milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch each curry powder, chili powder, garlic powder[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. añejo rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 sprigs parsley or cilantro[/drinkRecipe]

Stir soup with water or milk until lumps are out. Buzz in blender, in two batches, to pulverize mushroom pieces. They won't liquefy, but the tiny bits are pleasant in this hearty drink. Pour soup mixture into saucepan. Add seasonings. Place over moderate heat until simmering, stirring constantly. (The mixture tends to scorch.) Add rum. Remove from heat; stir. Divide among 4 warmed mugs. Garnish with sprig parsley or cilantro.

Note: This is a nice one to take to the football game, ice skating, etc. Just pour into warmed Thermos and close securely. It will keep warm for hours.

[recipe_title]Tom and Jerry[/recipe_title]

(two servings)

[drinkRecipe]1 egg, separated[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. dark rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. crème de cacao[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Boiling water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Freshly grated nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Beat egg white until stiff and glossy. Beat egg yolk with brandy, rum, crème de cacao, sugar and cinnamon until thick. Combine beaten white and yolk. Divide between 2 warmed mugs. Add 3 to 4 ozs. boiling water to each; stir lightly. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

[recipe_title]A La Russe[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons apple jelly, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. hot, full-bodied tea[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

Spoon jelly into preheated mug or heatproof tumbler. Add splash of tea and stir to dissolve. Add cinnamon stick, lemon, vodka and remaining tea; stir. Russians prefer heavy, straight-sided water tumbler, wrapping napkin around glass as holder.

(concluded on page 354)Warm Regards(continued from page 206)

[recipe_title]Hot Buttered Coffee[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons brown sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon butter[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch each nutmeg and cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip orange rind[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 ozs. bourbon, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Hot coffee[/drinkRecipe]

Combine sugar, butter and spices in mug and stir until smooth. Add orange rind and bourbon. Fill with hot coffee; stir well. (Add cream, if desired.)

[recipe_title]Flaming Finnish[/recipe_title]

(30 servings)

Virtually every Scandinavian family has its own special version of glögg, the hot spiced wine punch. This flamer is a Finnish favorite.

[drinkRecipe]Spices: 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 allspice berries, 1 piece dried ginger, 5 cardamom pods (cracked), 5 black peppercorns[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles zinfandel, or other dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles madeira (preferably bual)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1 small orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]16 small dried black figs, halved[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 tablespoons brown sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cup blanched almonds[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 ozs. aquavit, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

Tie spices in gauze or cheesecloth. Place in small pan and add water; boil 5 minutes. Remove spice bag, pressing lightly with spoon to drain water back into pan. Combine water, wines, orange peel, figs and sugar in 6-quart enamel pot. Heat until just at simmer. Remove peel; pour heated wine mixture into large warmed punch bowl. Add almonds. Pour some aquavit into warmed ladle. Float remaining aquavit on punch, pouring carefully over back of soupspoon. Ignite spirits in ladle and dip edge so that flame catches aquavit in bowl. Empty rest of aquavit in ladle onto punch. Let flame for moment, then extinguish. Taste for sweetness. Serve in punch cups, dipping bit of fig and nut into each cup.

[recipe_title]Getaway Grog[/recipe_title]

(30 servings)

A hospitality swig of Club Getaway's, the Connecticut version of Club Med. On brisk days, the grog is kept warm over an open fire. Guests dip in as the feeling moves them.

[drinkRecipe]3 quarts country apple cider[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup dried apple slices[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup sultana raisins[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 pieces stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 lemon, thinly sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 orange, thinly sliced[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (750 ml.) applejack[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Brown sugar or maple sugar, to taste[/drinkRecipe]

Combine all ingredients but applejack and sugar; bring to simmer. Add applejack and remove from heat; stir. Taste for sweetness and add sugar, if desired. (Unlike commercial apple juice, farm ciders vary in sweetness.) Serve in mugs or heavy old fashioned glasses, dipping some fruit into each portion.

[recipe_title]Sizzling Mac[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 ozs. ginger wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. water, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice lime[/drinkRecipe]

Combine Scotch, wine and water in enamel pan and heat. When sizzling, but not boiling, pour into small goblet or heatproof stemmed glass. Garnish with lime. Serve with small pitcher of hot water so more can be added, if desired.

[recipe_title]Seven 'N' Cider[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]5 ozs. apple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Apple wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]11/2 Ozs. Seagram 7, or other good American whiskey[/drinkRecipe]

Warm apple juice until simmering. Stick apple with cloves and place in mug or cup. Add whiskey; pour in hot apple juice and serve.

Hot drinks are penetrating and send a surge of energy to one's finger tips, toes and other extremities. Start your party with hot drinks, and who knows where the evening will end?

Cool Hosts' Guide to Hot Cheers

• When heating, hold mixtures containing alcoholic beverages below the boil. Boiling evaporates the alcohol and takes the zip out of the drink.

• Don't be overgenerous. Heating brings up the flavor; too much liquor spoils a hot drink.

• On the other hand, don't drown the drink. Many recipes call for a mixer (water, apple juice, etc.) "to fill," which can result in a flabby, flat drink. Strive for balance.

• Always preheat cups, mugs or other vessels. That will inhibit breakage and retain warmth. Placing a metal spoon in a glass before pouring is another precaution against cracking.

• Avoid using metal mugs. They look chic, but metal is a heat conductor and can sear your lips.

• Another jazzy idea that seldom works is using a cinnamon stick as a stirrer. To be functional, sticks must be fairly long, extending at least an inch beyond the rim of the mug.

• Use good-quality wines and spirits when making hot drinks. Cold mutes flavor characteristics, while heat intensifies them, spotlighting both the virtues and the flaws.

• The thoughtful host will provide a small pitcher of the hot mixer along with the drink, so guests can adjust it to their own tastes. Sweetening-sugar, honey, maple syrup, etc.-may be handled in the same way.

• Unshelled walnuts or pecans, smoked almonds and un-glazed dried fruits-prunes, apricots, apples, peaches and figs-are pleasant, easy-to-handle hot-drink accompaniments. Roasted chestnuts complement port-based drinks such as negus. And raised doughnuts do nice things for buttered rums and apple-juice or cider-based drinks. You might also consider holiday bakes such as Lebkuchen, Pfeffernuss and fruitcakes; thinly sliced Smith-field ham or smoked baked ham on dark bread; cheese straws and sesame-coated bread sticks.

"Hot drinks engender warm feelings-all the way down-and put a glow on any gathering."