Liquor of the Lairds

It was not much more than 125 years ago that an inspired Scottish distiller hit on the idea of tempering his robust, straight malt whisky, the original uisgebaugh, with a measure of tamer grain whisky. His unabashed aim was to broaden the appeal of the native brew--and to say he succeeded is a consummate understatement. The marriage of traditional pot-still malt with grain whisky, elaborated in modern column stills, gave birth to a novel whisky type, blended Scotch.

Traits of each parent are evident in the offspring. The malt, made from barley dried over peat fires, contributes vigor and the characteristic smoky tang. Grain whiskies, with a large proportion of corn in the mash, add lightness and finesse. The blends launched a new era in the realm of potables. Bibbers from less privileged habitats got wind of this lighter, subtler whisky and began clamoring for it. Blended Scotch soon became the international swig--synonymous with whisky at pit stops from Sussex to Singapore.

One of the (continued on page 180) Liquor of the Lairds (continued from page 112) few holdouts was our own United States. The smoky potion didn't establish a toe hold here until the late Forties, after World War Two. Even then it was an Eastern phenomenon, and a status sip, seen in posh cafés frequented by trendies. Only a handful of brands were available--and they were essentially one style. Contrast that with the current situation. Today we have hundreds of labels to choose from, and devotees can browse through a maze of Scotch bottlings at any well-stocked emporium.

Even more intriguing, Scotch is no longer monolithic. As blending and distilling techniques became more refined, producers expanded the range of their offerings by jockeying such key factors as proportion of malts to grain whiskies, types of malts in the blend, age of the whiskies and nature of the cooperage.

By now, there are four or five identifiable levels of Scotch on liquor-store shelves: bulk whiskies, premium brands, superpremiums, ultrapremiums and single malts. These variations on the theme present interesting possibilities to the adventurous palate and the host with a flair for entertaining. The following overview should raise your Scotch consciousness and increase the joy of your Scotch experience. (For a fuller listing of brands, prices and applications, refer to Playboy's Guide to Scotch, opposite.)

Bulk Scotches are whiskies distilled and blended in Scotland, shipped in barrels and bottled in Stateside plants. They tend to be very light and have the smallest ratio of malt to grain whisky. The relatively modest tab may reflect savings in production and handling, as well as lower proofs and profit margins. Bulks account for one of every three bottles of Scotch we imbibe, and they're not to be disparaged. Inver House, Passport and Usher's Green Stripe are the leading bulk-shipped brands in this country.

Labels of authentic premium brands bear the legend Distilled, Blended and Bottled in Scotland. The operative word here is bottled. Distilled and blended in Scotland, alone, doesn't make it. Until the bulks emerged, some 20 years ago, premiums had the field to themselves, and they're still the largest category. J&B Rare, Dewar's White Label, Cutty Sark and Johnnie Walker Red Label get the biggest plays.

The superpremiums started to come on in the Seventies, and they're still coming. They're suave bottlings, costlier than premiums, but you can taste the difference. The generous lacing of malt whisky imparts depth and a palpable malt tang to the blend. Twelve years or better in the cask rounds and mellows the superprems. Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker Black Label are the leading brands in case sales.

The ultrapremiums are distillers' showpieces--more like individual gems than a category. The hallmark of this group is age. A number come in artful ceramic or crystal decanters and make alluring, enduring gifts. Between the aged whiskies and the attractive containers, ultrapremiums can be quite dear--they're available in limited quantities, with a waiting list of customers. Chivas Royal Salute is way out front and Ballantine's 30 Year is a distant second.

Lusty, unblended Scotch malt whisky is in a class by itself--the ingredient that gives Scotch character to a blend. The term Single or Single malt on a label means the contents are all from the same distillery. In practice, straight malts are usually singles. The most esteemed are those from the Highlands; The Glenlivet and Glenfiddich are popular brands. The heavily aromatic Laphroaig is typical of Islay malts, while Talisker, from the Isle of Skye, neatly spans the gap between elegant Highland distillates and pungent Islays.

The ultimate plateau in Scotch appreciation is the complete Scotch bar. It's no trouble to set one up, and no vast expense. You'll want a representative from each of the blend types--including an ultrapremium--plus a malt from the Highlands and one from Islay or Skye. With that, and the drink temptations that follow, you're ready for some serious sipping.

[recipe_title]Bagpipe[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. apricot liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. grapefruit juice[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients over ice in old fashioned glass; stir well.

[recipe_title]Red Lion[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime slice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Maraschino cherry[/drinkRecipe]

Briskly shake whisky, orange, lemon and lime juices and sugar with cracked ice. Strain over fresh ice in large old fashioned glass. Decorate glass with lime slice and maraschino cherry. Serve at once.

Note: If you prefer a drier drink, cut back on the sugar. If you like it sweeter, add a bit more sugar or grenadine.

[recipe_title]Scotch Sting[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. white crème de menthe[/drinkRecipe]

Shake briskly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass or over fresh ice in wineglass.

[recipe_title]Balmoral Bullshot[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. beef bouillon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Sprig parsley[/drinkRecipe]

Pour Scotch and bouillon over ice in old fashioned glass. Squeeze lemon into glass, add rind; stir. Garnish with parsley.

[recipe_title]Malted Milk[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Scotch malt whisky[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon honey, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. milk[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Shake whisky, honey and milk vigorously with cracked ice. Strain over fresh ice in highball glass. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg.

[recipe_title]Loch Ness Monster[/recipe_title]

A monster-size drink that can easily go for two.

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Scotch liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. medium-dry sherry (Amontillado)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Slice lime, slice lemon[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients but fruit over ice in large old fashioned glass. Stir until well chilled. Decorate with lime and lemon or fresh fruit in season.

[recipe_title]Tall Mac Tavish[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Campari[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 to 4 ozs. tonic, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Orange wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Pour Scotch and Campari over ice in tall glass; stir. Add tonic. Squeeze orange wedge into glass; stir quickly.

[recipe_title]Red Kilt[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. V-8 (vegetable-juice cocktail)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes each Worcestershire, Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Pour Scotch and V-8 over ice in old fashioned glass. Add Worcestershire and Tabasco. Squeeze lemon wedge into glass, add rind; stir well.

[recipe_title]Churchill[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 oz. sweet vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all but lime with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with lime wedge.

[recipe_title]Golden Spike[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. Lemonier liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon slice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake whisky and Lemonier briskly with cracked ice, to combine. Strain into prechilled cocktail glass. Hang lemon slice on rim of glass and serve.

Do something different: Invite a quorum of quaffing companions over for an informal Scotch tasting--say three or four different types. Then go on to a sampling of mixed drinks. All in the interest of education, you understand--and good, clean fun!

"There are five levels of Scotch in stores: bulks, premiums, superpremiums, ultrapremiums, malts."

Playboy's Guide to Scotch

The answer to "Which Scotch for what purpose?" and other definitive details pertinent to the genre are given below. Be aware that prices apply to the 750-ml. bottle (25.4 ounces) and are ball-park figures. They can, and do, vary according to outlet, locale and even season.

Bulk Whisky

Proof: Most bulks are 80 proof, but a number are 86 proof, and some brands come in both 80 proof and 86 proof. It pays to check the label!

Price Range: $5.25--$6.25.

Brands: Vat 69 Gold, Clan MacGregor, John Begg Blue Cap, King George IV, Bulloch Lade's B & L, Bellows, Glen Rossie, Peter Dawson, King James, Lauder's, Old Smuggler, Lang's, Martin's V.V.O., Grand Macnish, Catto's Gold Label--as well as Passport, Inver House and Usher's Green Stripe, previously mentioned.

Application: Eminently mixable; ideal for cocktails, highballs and mists. Light, agreeable sip poured over ice.

Premium Scotch

Proof: 86 proof and 86.8 proof.

Price Range: $8--$9.

Brands: Ambassador, Teacher's Highland Cream, Vat 69 Traditional, White Horse, Black & White, Ballantine's, The Famous Grouse, Grant's Stand Fast 8, Bell's Extra Special, Desmond & Duff, Whyte & Mackay Special--as well as Dewar's White Label, J&B Rare, Johnnie Walker Red Label and Cutty Sark.

Application: Used in mixed drinks as the bulks are, but tilt is to pour over rocks and in highballs.

Superpremiums

Proof: 86 proof and 86.8 proof.

Price Range: $12 and up.

Brands: Cutty 12, Dewar's 12 Ancestor, Grant's Royal, Haig & Haig Pinch, James Martin's DeLuxe, Grand Old Parr, Royal Ages, The Antiquary, Bell's Royal Vat, Buchanan's 12 Year, "Ne Plus Ultra"--as well as Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker Black Label.

Application: Superb mixers, but considering their price and rich, mellow tone, most people will take them over ice or with a light splash of water.

Ultrapremiums

Proof: 80 proof and 86.8 proof.

Price Range: $20--$75, or more--depending on packaging.

Brands: Bell's Royal Reserve, Grant's Own Ancient Reserve, Whyte & Mackay 21 Year, Johnnie Walker Swing, Ambassador Twenty-Five, James Martin's Fine & Rare, Royal Heritage 21 Year--as well as Chivas Royal Salute and Ballantine's 30 Year.

Application: These venerable citizens deserve to be sipped reflectively with an intimate friend. They are, as well, destined to be gifts--for the man or miss who has everything else.

Scotch Malt Whisky

Proof: Most are 86 proof or 86.8 proof, but some go higher.

Price: $15 a bottle, or a bit more.

Brands: Macallan, Mortlach, Glendullan, John Begg Lochnagar, Dewar's Malt, Cardhu Highland Malt, Glenmorangie (favored in the homeland), Tomintoul Glenlivet, Glen Grant Glenlivet, Capercaillie Blended Malt--as well as Glenfiddich and The Glenlivet, Laphroaig and Talisker.

Application: Compared to cognac by aficionados, malts are often served neat or with a tot of water. A splash of malt whisky, preferably in a snifter, is a canny way to cap a grand dinner.