A Day at the Derby

if you can't make the running of the roses, ride home a winner anyway with your own genial julep party

Even if one is not a connoisseur of horseflesh, the Kentucky Derby is still the most exciting two-minute spectacle in the annals of sport. Seats are snapped up a year in advance, going on a renewal basis. But if your heart is set on a Derby experience, don't despair. There's an equally delightful way to enjoy the action, thrills and romance of this equine classic. Come the first Saturday in May, stage your own horsy fling and invite friends to a day at the Derby. You can guarantee them a perfect view of the race--on the tube, of course--even better than that of the governor's party, ensconced in a box at Churchill Downs. Louisville during Derby week is saturnalia; a collage of Mardi Gras, urbane sophistication and antebellum kitsch, climaxed by 120 seconds of delirium--the mile-and-a-quarter Run for the Roses. But for some, the mint juleps are a greater attraction than the ponies.

Upwards of 60,000 are sold at the track on the big day--made from a prepared mix and served in souvenir glasses. Your true julep is presented in a frosted sterling-silver cup and consists of but four ingredients: bourbon, mint, sugar and ice. The bourbon should be top quality and potent, the mint fresh, sugar extra-fine and ice finely crushed. (Purists beat it into granules in a heavy canvas bag.)

Considering its station in Kentucky social life and Derby lore, the julep is a controversial quaff, with almost as many "authentic" recipes as there are aficionados. Note that our own mint julep skirts convention--using simple syrup in place of sugar, for its easy mix-ability, and a dash of bitters as an added flavor nuance. Among other variations on the julep theme are such inviting additions as a float of Jamaica rum or cognac, a dollop of peach liqueur, crème de menthe or peppermint schnapps and a generous splash of champagne. Regional rivalries abound. Peach-flavored brandy and even ripe peaches appear in Georgia juleps. Californians insist on using the native brandy. Embattled Virginians dispute the Kentucky claim to originating mint juleps and mock the effete Bluegrass custom of wrapping a napkin around the icy silver cup. They grasp it firmly, just below the rim, and to hell with frozen fingers. Mint is another point of contention between the states. "Muddle," say Kentuckians, to the horror of Virginians. Novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes, a daughter of the Old Dominion state, once wrote that the last instructions a Virginia gentleman murmurs on his deathbed are: "Never insult a decent woman, never bring in a horse hot to the stable and never crush the mint in a julep."

There's one item on which these foes close ranks: A julep must be made with bourbon whiskey--the native American spirit. Besides the legendary julep, Kentuckians are also partial to the smash, toddy, southside, highball and bourbon over rocks. But as the strains of My Old Kentucky Home summon the thoroughbreds to the post, there's only one choice. Hand each guest a crisp, fragrant mint julep with the traditional salutation, "Have a winner!" And if you've done it right, he will.

[recipe_title]The Ultimate Mint Julep[/recipe_title]

[recipe]4 young, fresh mint leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. bottled-in-bond Kentucky bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 tablespoon simple syrup (recipe below)[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash bitters, optional[/recipe]

[recipe]3 or 4 mint sprigs, for garnish[/recipe]

Prechill sterling-silver julep cup. Place mint leaves, bourbon and simple syrup in bar glass. Add bitters if you like and muddle lightly, barely bruising leaves. Gently massage interior of chilled julep cup with sprig or two of mint. Discard mint and pack cup with finely crushed ice. Slowly strain bourbon mixture into prepared cup. Jiggle contents with long-handled spoon to frost exterior. Add more ice as necessary and top with float of bourbon or Jamaica rum. Plant 3 or 4 mint sprigs in ice crevices. Insert straws, cut short so that you can sniff the mint as you imbibe your julep.

Simple syrup: In saucepan, combine 2 cups sugar and 1 cup water. Bring to boil, then simmer 5 minutes without stirring. Cool; pour into jar. Syrup will keep almost indefinitely in refrigerator.

[recipe_title]Party Juleps[/recipe_title]

[recipe]This is the more or less "official" Derby Day recipe. Very useful when entertaining a herd of enthusiasts.[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]Large bunch fresh mint[/recipe]

[recipe]Bourbon[/recipe]

Prepare mint-flavored syrup: Combine sugar and water in saucepan. Bring to boil and simmer 5 minutes without stirring. Cool. Loosely fill quart jar with mint and add cooled syrup. Cap jar and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours. Discard mint.

To make one julep, pack highball glass with finely crushed ice; pour in 1/2 tablespoon mint syrup and 2 ozs. Kentucky bourbon. Stir gently to frost exterior. Top with mint sprig and add straws.

To get a jump on things, you can make up the first round of drinks in advance. Prepare drinks as described above, including straws but sans garnish, and place in freezer for up 2 hours. Garnish with mint sprigs and serve. If contents solidify, let glasses stand at room temperature 10 to 20 minutes before serving.

[recipe_title]Bluegrass Mint Julep[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 teaspoons simple syrup (recipe above)[/recipe]

[recipe]5 or 6 fresh mint leaves[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]Finely crushed ice[/recipe]

[recipe]Mint sprigs, for garnish[/recipe]

In 10-oz. glass or silver mug, muddle simple syrup and mint leaves. Pack glass with finely crushed ice. Don't let ice go to mush. Slowly pour in bourbon. Stir gently with long-handled spoon to frost exterior. Plant several mint sprigs in ice crevices. Add straws and serve.

[recipe_title]Kentucky Toddy[/recipe_title]

[recipe]A popular drink in Bluegrass country.[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. simple syrup (recìpe above)[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon slice[/recipe]

[recipe]Ice water[/recipe]

[recipe]Nutmeg or cinnamon[/recipe]

Combine bourbon and simple syrup in 6-oz. tumbler or goblet. Stir well; add ice cubes and lemon slice. Pour in ice water to fill, or to taste; stir quickly. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg or cinnamon.

[recipe_title]California Mint Smash[/recipe_title]

[recipe]A smash is, essentially, a short julep. Here's one with a Western twist.[/recipe]

[recipe]1 fresh mint sprig[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons cold water[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/4 ozs. California brandy[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. pear liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]Mint sprig, for garnish (optional)[/recipe]

In old fashioned glass, lightly muddle mint, sugar and water. Add ice cubes, brandy and liqueur; stir. Pop on mint garnish if desired.

[recipe_title]Southside[/recipe_title]

[recipe]6 fresh mint leaves, removed from stem[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Pineapple stick, for garnish[/recipe]

Shake all ingredients, except garnish, briskly with cracked ice. Strain into sour glass or over ice cubes in wineglass. Decorate with pineapple stick or other fruit, if desired.

[recipe_title]Schnappsy Julep[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 ozs. bourbon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons peppermint schnapps[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 oz. lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Mint sprigs[/recipe]

Shake bourbon, schnapps and lemon juice briskly with ice. Strain over fresh ice in small tumbler. Pop on mint sprigs and serve.

[recipe_title]Georgia Peach Julep (For two)[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Ripe peach or 2 canned freestone-peach halves[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. bourbon or corn whiskey[/recipe]

[recipe]1 oz. peach liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]Sugar, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 sprig fresh young mint[/recipe]

[recipe]Mint, for garnish[/recipe]

Skin, halve and pit fresh peach, or drain canned halves. Place in small jar. Combine all other ingredients except garnish and pour over peach in jar; marinate for an hour or more. Place ice in two large old fashioned glasses; add peach half to each. Strain bourbon mixture equally into each glass. Stir; garnish drinks with fresh mint sprigs. Serve with small spoons.

Bluegrass wisdom has it that only two things can harm a julep, the first being too much sugar and the second too little whiskey. We'll drink to that.