The Days of Swine and Rosés

Looking for the ingredients that will turn just one more summer outing with the gang into a great day? Simple! Ply your amigos with light wines and a succulent porker roasted luau style, in an open pit. The preparation is as easy as the prospect is alluring, and one thing's certain: The party won't be boaring. The porker does double duty as the star of the menu and the center of activity. You'll find all hands eagerly pitching in--digging a pit, gathering stones to line the trench, preparing a marinade and nursing charcoal briquettes to the proper gray-ash stage. Don't overcharcoal, however, or you'll have a furnace. Moderate temperature is preferable; that way, the skin gets crispy brown and the meat becomes tender and juicy. Once you've tucked your porker into a bed of ashes (directions for ordering your pig and complete cooking instructions follow), it's time to open the wine. Vin rosé is a delightful quaff for an outdoor frolic and a perfect foil for pork. One shouldn't look for elegance or complexity in rosés. True, not all pink wines are distinguished; nevertheless, exemplary rosés are made in all the finer vineyard areas. There (concluded on page 192)Swine and Rosés(continued from page 139) are the luscious Roger Pinot Rosé, from the upper Loire; Campania's suave Lacrimarosa d'Irpinia; Chateau d'Aqueria--the classic Tavel--and a delicious new Cape wine entry, Lanzerac Rosé, from the Stellenbosch Farmers Wineries, among others. California is a prime source of varietal rosés, those made with a preponderance of one grape. They tend to be scented, fairly dry, with distinctive styles--belying the nonsense that rosés are not for serious sippers. Robert Mondavi's stylish Gamay Rosé, Cabernet Rosés from Simi and from the Monterey Vineyard, Sonoma Vineyard's Grenache Rosé, Sebastiani's Rosa Gewürztraminer, Iron Horse's Blanc de Pinot Noir and Mirassou's Petite Rosé are worthy of anyone's attention.

California's generic rosés, made from a blend of grapes, are exemplary chug wines. Gallo markets four, ranging from a fruity, lightly sweet Pink Chablis to The Wine Cellars of Ernest & Julio Gallo Rosé--driest in the line. Paul Masson's rosé comes in a handy, charming carafe. The new Riverside Farm Premium Dry Rosé and Robert Mondavi's California Rosé are definitely dry, and Papagni's Madeira Rosé is nicely balanced.

Whole Suckling Pig,Luau Style

Fresh suckling pigs are available at custom butcher shops. Frozen piglets can be mail-ordered year-round from Pfaelzer Brothers, specialty-meat purveyors in Chicago (800-621-0226), pit-ready and complete with cooking directions. The following instructions are based on Pfaelzer Brother's recipe.

Materials: Dry stones to line pit, about 10 pounds charcoal briquettes, sheeting or it leaves, wire mesh or uninsulated fencing wire, clean burlap sacks, leaves, canvas and, of course, a fully thawed pig.

Preparation: Rinse pig in several changes of salt water. Dry thoroughly. Make up seasoned marinade. Brush pig liberally with some of marinade. Reserve rest for later use. Dig pit about 2 feet deep, roughly 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. Line pit with stones. Meanwhile, start briquettes in outdoor fireplace or grill. Wedge ball of foil or block of wood in pig's mouth. Wrap pig in ti leaves or sheeting, then in wire. Saturate sheeting with marinade. Wrap pig in burlap and secure; douse burlap with remaining marinade. Dampen leaves slightly and bundle. Distribute heated charcoal evenly in pit. Add leaves. Lower pig into pit. Cover with canvas; top with rocks or gravel. Pfaelzer allows approximately 2--2 1/2 hours for 14-to-19-lb. pig; 2 1/2--3 hours for 25-lb. pig. When in doubt, give pig a little more time in pit. Decorate with apple, cranberries, etc., before presenting. Set in warm spot for 20 minutes before carving.

Accompaniments: Applesauce, cranberry sauce, cole slaw, rice pilaf, corn on the cob, corn bread. Mustard, pepper sauce, soy sauce and mustard fruits are compatible condiments.

[recipe_title]Rosy Sangria[/recipe_title]

(16 servings)

[recipe]1 lemon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lime[/recipe]

[recipe]1 orange[/recipe]

[recipe]2 bottles rosé, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup orange liqueur[/recipe]

[recipe]1 pint ripe strawberries[/recipe]

[recipe]12-oz. can lemon soda, chilled[/recipe]

Cut lemon, lime and orange into thin slices. Place in chilled punch bowl. Add wine and liqueur; refrigerate. At serving time, place chunk of ice in bowl. Rinse berries and add to bowl. Pour in soda; stir once.

As you present the porker in costume--apple-stuffed mouth, cherry eyes and a necklace of cranberries--some wise guy is sure to remark, "Fella, you sure know how to serve fruit."