The Midnight Ride

Every American knows about Paul Revere's epic ride to immortality in 1775. With all due respect to the dauntless equestrian, we have something different, though equally exciting, in mind: an exuberant midnight-till-morn romp into the new Year. It may not ensure your place in the history books, but it's bound to be one hell of a fling. The climax of this come-late, stay-late revel is a rejuvenating New Year's breakfast as the morning sun smiles over the horizon.

You'll notice Scandinavian influences on this year's blueprint for pleasure. They're deliberate. In learning how-to survive the long, boring winters, Scandinavian hosts have elevated partying to an art form. They keep things loose and light. Refreshments, though lavish, are easy to prepare, making no heavy demands on either guests or hosts. For the most part, people help themselves as they wish, creating an ideal atmosphere for freewheeling revelry.

Here's the suggested game plan for your triumphant(concluded on page 176)Midnight Ride(continued from page 157) gallop into 1983: Pop a few champagne corks around midnight to get the ride on the road. Then trot out the Stockholm Punch, prepared earlier that day; unlike so many of its sort, it's a brisk, well-laced potion. Snacks for the early furlongs are simple and savory: a Scandinavian herring platter; a smoked-seafood platter; Danish Flares; shrimps cooked in beer; several zesty Danish cheeses, such as Saga Blue and Havarti; and a delicious taste for the new year—sun-dried-Italian-tomato canapés. Fill any spaces on the table with tangy Niçopise olives, pickled baby beets and crisp vegetable sticks—celery, zucchini, carrot and cucumber. Directions for preparation, where required, follow.

Sometime around three A.M., the crowd will be ready to regroup and refuel; that's the time for your star attraction—lobster, ham and turkey in an avocado dressing—and a change of quaffs. Champagne punch is a sparkling idea and complements the main dish handsomely. Supplement the punch with jugs of red and white wines and a choice of beers. Since party appetites aren't predictable, you may augment the lobster mélange with a fresh roast ham or a whole poached salmon. (Add a jar of preserved lingonberries to the buffet if ham is on your program.) Complete the gastronomic still life with cole slaw, potato salad, cherry tomatoes and cornichons or half-sour pickles.

When dawn breaks, the ride's nearly over. Eye openers and a bit of nourishment will lift flagging spirits. That means Mary Peppers or black velvets, eggs and Danish pastry. One for the road? Make it black coffee.

[recipe_title]Mary Pepper[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. vodka[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. thick tomato juice, chilled[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish, optional[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch garlic powder[/recipe]

[recipe]Dash salt, if desired[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons lime juice[/recipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with cracked ice. Strain into tumbler or wineglass.

Note: This is on the light side, about right for the time and circumstance.

[recipe_title]Champagne-Melon Punch[/recipe_title]

(20 servings)

A punch is a nice way to extend champagne without diluting the spell it casts.

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Midori melon liqueur, optional[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 pint pineapple juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 package frozen melon balls, halfthawed[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles champagne, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Place small block of hard-frozen ice in 1-gallon bowl. Add everything but champagne; stir quickly. Pour in champagne, stir once and serve immediately, dipping a melon ball into each portion.

Note: When replenishing, start from scratch, including fresh ice.

[recipe_title]Stockholm Punch[/recipe_title]

(25 servings)

[drinkRecipe]1 liter vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (500 ml.) apricot liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 cups lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 can (15-1/2 ozs.) apricot halves, with syrup[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Superfine sugar, if desired[/drinkRecipe]

Pour all ingredients except sugar over block of ice in large punch bowl. Stir well to chill and dilute. Taste for sweetness. Serve in cocktail glasses, small wineglasses or punch cups; a 3-oz. portion is a good drink.

[recipe_title]Herring Platter[/recipe_title]

Choose several from among herring in cream sauce, wine sauce, oil, mustard or spice. Decorate with red onion rings.

[recipe_title]Smoked-Seafood Platter[/recipe_title]

Serve slices of smoked salmon and sturgeon and fillets of smoked eel. Decorate with sprays of dill or parsley and lemon wedges. Present pepper mill.

[recipe_title]Pumate Sanremo Canapes[/recipe_title]

(About 50 servings)

[recipe]1 jar (7 ozs.) Pumate Sanremo (sundried tomatoes)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 long French breads[/recipe]

[recipe]12 ozs. to 1 lb. goat cheese or cream cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]Black pepper[/recipe]

Halve breads horizontally. Brush cut sides with olive oil from jar of tomatoes. Spread with soft, mild goat cheese or cream cheese. Separate tomatoes and layer over cheese. Grind on pepper or sprinkle lightly with oregano. Cut through bread at 1-inch intervals to make individual canapés.

[recipe_title]Danish Flares[/recipe_title]

(40 to 50 servings)

[recipe]2 lbs. cocktail franks[/recipe]

[recipe]Unsalted butter[/recipe]

Crosscut each wiener on both ends, about 1/4 inch deep. Grill franks in hot butter or oil. As franks heat and brown, the ends will flare out. Impale on picks; flank with mustard.

[recipe_title]Cold Lobster, Ham and Turkey in Avocado Dressing[/recipe_title]

(About 20 servings)

[recipe]4 cups diced cooked lobster-tail chunks[/recipe]

[recipe]4 cups diced cooked turkey breast[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups boiled or baked ham, in strips[/recipe]

[recipe]1 can (8 ozs.) water chestnuts, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large Bosc pear, unpeeled, cored and diced[/recipe]

[recipe]6 ozs. fresh or frozen snow peas, crisp-cooked and halved[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups long, seedless cucumbers, peeled and chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup pimientos, rinsed and diced[/recipe]

Avocado dressing (see below)

Combine all ingredients except dressing in large container. Fold in dressing in stages, mixing well, until properly moist. To serve, arrange half of mixture on large platter or in decorative bowl. Garnish with sprigs of water cress or ring of kiwi slices. Replenish platter as needed.

[recipe_title]Avocado Dressing[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 ripe avocado[/recipe]

[recipe]3 cups mayonnaise[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup white-wine vinegar or lemon juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large garlic clove, crushed[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, if desired[/recipe]

[recipe]White pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dried tarragon, optional[/recipe]

[recipe]l/3 cup minced scallions, including some of green[/recipe]

Mash avocado with fork until smooth. Add mayonnaise and mix well. Stir in vinegar; add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Taste for seasoning; correct if necessary. If you like, thin with nip of vinegar or dry vermouth—but not too much. Dressing should be fairly thick.

Since January first is on a Saturday, you have the whole weekend to recuperate from your wild and crazy midnight ride into 1983. And so to bed. You've earned your rest.

"When dawn breaks, the ride's nearly over. Eye openers and nourishment will lift flagging spirits."