The Power of Darkness

When an unpertentious Manhattan chophouse mounts 20 single-malt whiskies on its back bar, aged vintage Armagnacs appear on the shelves of the neighborhood liquor stores and racy new liqueurs seem to bloom every day, people in the gusto lane see the handwriting on the wall. What all that says is welcome to a new era of taste.

Malt whisky illuminates the return to flavor. For years, this unblended, undiluted whisky--the original Scotch--was virtually unknown here. Then two Highland malt brands--The Glenlivet and Glenfiddich--surfaced, tentatively testing the market. Today, there are upwards of 40 single malts in the States, in a range of styles, maturities and intensities--including a Macallan 1964 vintage that spent 17 years in the wood. The distillers were unprepared for the interest in these rich, full-bodied Scotches. Some elected to go back into the market, repurchasing single malts they had previously sold to blenders--and paying hefty prices for the privilege.

The blueprint is similar, though not as dramatic, for other spirits. Bourbon started life as a full-flavored whiskey, often sold at 100 proof or thereabouts. These days, liquor-store shelves are crowded with labels at (concluded on page 172) Power of Darkness (continued from page 122) the milder 80 proof. Nevertheless, there's a perceptible revival of interest in the big hearties, exemplified by the new Barrel Proof Grand-Dad 114 proof, Old Weller 107 proof and a clutch of whiskeys at 101 proof, Wild Turkey (bourbon and rye), Eagle Rare, Ezra Brooks, Old Fitzgerald and Maker's Mark, among others.

Rum is another case in point. While merchandising effort has been lavished on the whites, there's an unmistakable consumer interest in the richer golds and ambers, such as Myers's Original Dark, Bacardi Gold Reserve and the tasty newcomer, Captain Morgan Spiced Rum. Even some aristocratic, dark liqueur rums are emerging from cobwebbed cellars, and several reach these shores. Appleton (Jamaica) sends a 12-year-old. Rhum Barbancourt Reserve du Domaine (Haiti) and Lemon Hart Superb Golden (Jamaica) check in at 15 years. Such venerable bottlings as Clement Grand Rhum (Martinique), Siegert's Don Carlos and Fernandez Dark (Trinidad) and Mount Gay Sugar Cane Rum (Barbados) are rarely shipped at present, but connoisseurs stalk them in their native habitats, bearing their finds home like trophies.

Cognac and Armagnac follow the same pattern. Not only is consumption of those most lavishly endowed brandies rising but sales of the older, more flavorful designations--Napoleons, XOs, vieille reserves and Hors d'Ages--are going at a faster clip. California brandy distillers, who have always made a feature of lightness, are showing interest in a fuller style, too. Several are producing pot-still brandies--the method required in the Cognac region.

One to watch for is the Franco-American collaboration between Rémy Martin and Schramsberg, called alambic brandy. That operation, located in Napa, teams French know-how and California grapes.

Still, it's liqueur, the category based on flavor, that provides the most startling evidence of the trend. For centuries, discriminating drinkers were content with the array of elegant elixirs epitomized by Chartreuse and Benedictine, such classic liqueurs as Grand Marnier, Drambuie, Cointreau and the popular standards--blackberry, cherry, anisette, orange, sloe gin, crème de menthe and crème de cacao. But the past dozen years have brought a gush of liqueurs in flavors the medieval alchemists never dreamed of: kiwi, hazelnut, espresso, coconut, honeydew, cranberry, walnut, pistachio, praline, chestnut--plus such innovations as bourbon and Canadian liqueurs at 100 proof. Who knows what's coming next? Anyone for honeysuckle?

Carry the word to friends, colleagues and lovers by exposing them to the distinctively flavored potions described here.

[recipe_title]Cadet Rouselle[/recipe_title]

An Armagnac cocktail from La Bastide Gasconne, in the Armagnac region.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. Armagnac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 tablespoon orange juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

Rub rim of chimney-top brandy glass with Armagnac. Invert glass and swirl in sugar. Tap glass lightly to loosen excess sugar. Shake all ingredients briskly with cracked ice. Strain into prepared glass.

[recipe_title]Rum-Tea-Tum[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. dark rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. amaretto, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedge[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3--4 ozs. strong tea, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first three ingredients with cracked ice. Strain over ice cubes into tall glass. Squeeze in juice of lemon; drop in rind. Add tea to taste. Straws optional.

[recipe_title]Bourbon Bellini (Serves two)[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 fresh, ripe peach, peeled and pitted[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. pineapple juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. apricot liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon superfine sugar, optional[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup finely crushed ice[/drinkRecipe]

Chop peach; place in chilled blender container with a bit of pineapple juice. Blend until smooth. Add remaining ingredients; blend until just smooth. Divide between two chilled wineglasses. Serve with straws.

Note: If peach is ripe and sweet, you shouldn't need sugar. Canned freestone peaches may be used if fresh ones are not in season.

[recipe_title]Pale Moon[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. Benedictine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. grapefruit juice[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain over ice cubes in old fashioned glass. Garnish with half slice orange if desired.

[recipe_title]Brandy Snap[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. cognac[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. orange liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon peppermint schnapps[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup finely crushed ice[/drinkRecipe]

Place all ingredients in chilled blender container. Blend until just smooth. Pour unstrained into chilled old fashioned glass. Garnish with mint sprig if desired.

[recipe_title]Yellow Bird[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. full-bodied Scotch[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. triple sec[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. yellow Chartreuse[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strip of orange peel[/drinkRecipe]

Shake first three ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Twist orange peel over glass and add to drink.

[recipe_title]Café Au Lait[/recipe_title]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. bourbon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. coffee liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3/4 oz. cream[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash Angostura[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients briskly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass or small wineglass. Sprinkle lightly with powdered instant coffee if you like.

Flaunt your good taste by stocking your bar with an array of the delicious potions described above. Enjoy a flavor high.

"The past dozen years have brought a gush of liqueurs in flavors the medieval alchemists never dreamed of."