The Great Popcorn Explosion

Although Julia Child, Paul Bocuse and other epicures might raise an eyebrow at the notion, "gourmet" popcorn has burst upon us. In popcorn land, this refers to vividly colored kernels in such unlikely flavors as watermelon, bubble gum, root beer, shrimp cocktail, bacon and egg, New York rye bread and dozens more. It's nouvelle popcorn, all right—and even amateurs are giving it a go. You might have problems reprising the likes of shrimp cocktail or bubble gum, even if you wanted to, but you can achieve taco, barbecue, chocolate and Kahlúa popcorn with no strain—as you'll see farther on. Flavored popcorn is not entirely new. Cheese and caramel have been around for ages, and a Chicago venture called Krazy Korn had a brief whirl with multiflavored popcorn 30 years ago. The concept languished until 1978, when Charlie Bird, an entrepreneurial Dallas gent, opened his Corn Popper shop. Somehow, he divined the time was ripe for new popcorn flavors; his first offering was chocolate. At a customer's suggestion, he added jalapeño-pepper-flavored corn. It took off like Secretariat—and so did old Charlie. Corn Poppers are now franchised in about 40 states, and there are 60 flavors, marketed selectively. Clam chowder and maple, for example, are designated for Boston, while jambalaya and praline go to New Orleans. Like Willy Loman, Charlie knows his territory.

The success of The Corn Popper inspired others. Dave Evans, who makes commercial popcorn equipment, notes that "since 1980, more people have gone (continued on page 194)Great Popcorn(continued from page 88) into a multiflavored-popcorn business than in the previous 15 or 20 years." Among them, incidentally, is actor Jack Klugman, a principal in Jack's Corn Crib, which opened in New York in 1982 and is now branching out to other states, with an eye to export markets.

Popcorn shops tend to be intensely secretive about their flavor recipes. But most rely on prepared mixes purchased from popcorn suppliers—who are constantly looking for new tastes. Evans once played with a flavor similar to Galliano: "We thought we'd call it Harvey Wallpopper." Some popcorn outlets, however, have resisted the gourmet fad, remaining faithful to the classics—plain, buttered, cheese and caramel—made according to their own recipes. Garrett's in Chicago, which has been quietly popping along for a quarter of a century, and Kernel Poppins, a recent New York development, are exponents of the traditional school.

Contrary to popular assumption, our love affair with the big-bang kernel did not begin with the advent of popcorn in movie theaters. It started some 350 years ago, when the Pilgrims were introduced to popping corn by Indian guests who contributed a deerskinful to the first Thanksgiving feast. Going farther back, a 16th Century conquistador described a type of Mexican corn kernel called "momochitl...which bursts when parched and discloses its contents and makes itself look like a white flower." Not a bad account of the popping process.

It takes a very special breed of corn to pop. The starch in the kernels must be hard—not soft, as in sweet corn—and the outside skin tough and enamellike. With sufficient heat, the droplet of moisture buried in the heart of each grain converts to steam, building pressure that explodes the kernel, and—pow!—popcorn. Poppability is serious business. Considerable research at a number of Midwestern universities—much of it supported by the Popcorn Institute—has gone into developing better strains of corn. These new hybrid kernels are said to be ultrapoppable, erupting into big, tender, tasty puffs. In fact, the Popcorn Institute alleges that "popcorn brands today guarantee that 99 percent of the kernels will pop."

That is good news for amateur poppers; despite the high visibility of store-bought popcorn, perhaps 70 percent of the 9.7 billion quarts we munch annually is still made at home. As a matter of fact, if you crave real butter on your popcorn, you're going to have to melt your own, since the commercial variety is invariably doused with butter substitutes. For your own gourmet popcorn, follow these recipes.

[recipe_title]Homemade Popcorn[/recipe_title]

Follow directions on popping-corn package or your popper as to proportions of popcorn to oil. Never use butter for popping, as it will burn. If you don't own a popcorn maker, use a wide-bottomed, heavy pan or skillet—with at least 3-quart capacity—and a domed cover. Pour oil into pan and set over medium heat. Add 1 or 2 kernels to pan and cover. When they pop, the oil is hot enough. Add corn to pan—never more than a single layer of kernels. If the cover of the popping pan has no steam vents, set it on the pan very slightly askew. This will permit steam to escape and keep popcorn from becoming soggy. Shake the pan gently and continuously until the popping noises stop.

[recipe_title]Buttered Popcorn: Three Ways[/recipe_title]

Standard buttered popcorn: Use 2 tablespoons melted butter for every quart of warm, freshly popped corn. Toss and add salt to taste.

Moviehouse "buttered" popcorn: When popping corn, use butter-flavor coconut oil such as Jolly Time Popping Oil. Sprinkle popcorn with butter-flavor salt.

Low-cal "buttered" popcorn: Pop corn in electric hot-air popper such as the Wear-Ever Popcorn Pumper, which does the job without oil. Sprinkle popcorn with butter-flavor salt only.

[recipe_title]Very Buttery Buttered Popcorn[/recipe_title]

Clarify butter: Melt 1/2 cup butter in small pan over low heat. Carefully pour off clear yellow liquid, leaving foam and sediment behind. Toss 3 quarts warm, freshly popped corn with clarified butter; salt to taste.

Note: Clarifying concentrates butterfat and butter flavor.

[recipe_title]Savory Popcorn[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon seasoning salt[/recipe]

Toss popcorn with melted butter, then pour into large heavy-plastic bag. Add seasoning salt, close bag tightly and shake until all popcorn has been coated. (If bag is not large enough, divide seasoning and do in batches.)

Note: Seasoning salt can be found on the spice shelves of supermarkets. You can substitute garlic salt, onion salt, spice blends such as lemon-pepper seasoning, herb blends—as for pizza, onion flakes, taco or other dry seasoning mixes, etc. Most contain salt, so taste before adding more. For a hotter flavor, add chili powder to taste.

[recipe_title]Smoky Barbecue Popcorn[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 cup melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon liquid smoke[/recipe]

[recipe]2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon dry barbecue seasoning[/recipe]

Combine melted butter and liquid smoke. Add to popcorn, quickly toss and mix well. Pour buttered popcorn into large heavy-plastic bag; add barbecue seasoning. Close bag tightly and shake until popcorn and seasoning are combined.

[recipe_title]Crunchy Kahlúa Popcorn[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup Kahlúa[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup light corn syrup[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup butter (1 stick)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds or finely chopped nuts[/recipe]

Spread popcorn in lightly buttered, large, shallow baking pan; toast in 300° Fahrenheit oven while preparing syrup. Combine sugar, Kahlúa, corn syrup and salt in 2-quart heavy saucepan. Heat to boiling, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Cover, turn heat low and cook 3 or 4 minutes to allow steam to dissolve any sugar crystals on sides of pan. Uncover, add butter; cook over moderate heat until mixture reaches 300° Fahrenheit—a little syrup dropped into cold water will separate into hard, brittle threads. Remove popcorn from oven, sprinkle with sesame seeds or nuts and slowly pour on syrup, turning with large spoon to coat evenly. Return to oven for 5 minutes. Transfer to large, lightly buttered platter and, when slightly cooled, break into chunks. Cool completely, then store in tightly covered container.

[recipe_title]Chocolate-Fudge Popcorn[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2–2 1/2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

[recipe]6-oz. bag semisweet-chocolate pieces[/recipe]

[recipe]2/3 cup light corn syrup[/recipe]

Spread popcorn in lightly buttered, large, shallow baking pan; toast in a 300° Fahrenheit oven for 10 minutes. Lightly butter large bowl and set aside. Melt chocolate over hot (not boiling) water. Stir in corn syrup. Transfer popcorn to buttered bowl; pour melted-chocolate mixture over corn and gently toss with 2 forks to coat pieces evenly. Spread popcorn in baking pan and separate into individual pieces or small clusters. Turn pieces occasionally until dry on all sides. Chocolaty and chewy.

[recipe_title]Fruity-Red Popcorn[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup boiling water[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup cherry or strawberry gelatin-dessert powder (such as Jell-O)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

Melt butter in small saucepan. Add boiling water and then gradually add gelatin powder, stirring until dissolved. Place popcorn in large, warmed bowl. Add flavor mixture and toss until pieces are well coated. Transfer to lightly buttered, large, shallow pan. Bake 10 minutes in 250° Fahrenheit oven, stir and bake 5 minutes longer. Let cool until crisp.

[recipe_title]Popcorn Parmigiano[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1/4 cup melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon oregano, crumbled[/recipe]

[recipe]2 quarts warm, freshly popped corn[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste[/recipe]

Combine melted butter and oregano; pour over popcorn and toss to mix well. Pour popcorn into large heavy-plastic bag. Add cheese, salt and pepper. Close bag tightly and shake until all the popcorn is coated with cheese.

Having attained the exalted status of M.P.—master of popcorn—you're ready for better things. So get out your popper, invite an appreciative momma—and pop!

How Corny Can You Get?

So what are the "gourmet" popcorns really like? Read on for tasty bits of information regarding these outrageous popcorn flavors. Tasting samples were obtained from The Corn Popper, Jack's Corn Crib and Popcorn Parlor of Greenwich Village.

Amaretto: Macaroonish. Wonder if they've heard of this in Saronno, where the liqueur originated.

B-B-Que: Mildly spicy, with a hint of tomato. Good munch with drinks.

Bacon and egg: This will never replace America's favorite breakfast combination, but it's pleasantly smoky and salty, with a hint of scrambled eggs in the finish.

Bubble gum: If you have an eighth-grade palate, you'll love this.

Butter rum: Doesn't taste of either and, frankly, doesn't taste like much.

Cantaloupe: Melony-orange flavor—or is it the color?

Caramel: This classic is superb in the hands of a Kernel Poppins or a Garrett's. Otherwise, just think Cracker Jacks.

Chocolate fudge: Bittersweet-chocolate flavor. Chewy. Uninspired.

Coffee bean: Coffee-candy taste—but less intense flavor.

Jalapeño: Hot! A sinus clearer that could put Dristan out of business.

Nacho: A slightly spicier version of cheese popcorn.

Piña colada: Ranges from pseudotropical taste to acceptable pineapple-coconut flavor, depending on the outlet.

Pistachio: An evil green hue but tasty. Vaguely reminiscent of pistachio ice cream.

Root beer: Did root beer really used to taste like this?

Raspberry: Flat, barely discernible flavor.

Sour cream and onion: Lightly tangy, with an accent of mild onion.

Strawberry: Synthetic quality but appealing—like red lollipops.

Taco: Tex-Mex seasoning. Addictive.

Tasty buttermilk: Slightly lactic taste that grows on you. Improves with a sprinkling of pepper.

Watermelon: Fruity, melony—and no seeds to spit out.

"Our love affair with the big-bang kernel did not begin with the advent of popcorn in movie theaters."