The Claus that Refreshes

Spirited Spiced Wines, traditionally warmed with the business end of a hot poker, are among our oldest holiday potions. The Pilgrims were partial to them for their "therapeutic effects"--or so they claimed--felicitously referring to them as "comforters, hearteners and chill chasers." And if anyone needs a chill chaser, it's jolly old Saint Nick. In the past few decades, mulled libations have taken a firm hold at winter resorts, serving a dual function--thawing icy extremities and abetting conviviality. There's nothing like a mug of hot cheer to welcome visitors on a cold night--or to warm a frigid friend. And, really, nothing could be simpler. As with any game, however, it helps to know the ground rules before you begin to play. So here are the A B Cs of the proper construction of mulled concoctions.

Each batch of hot drinks should be freshly made and served steaming hot. Tepid mixtures are tasteless. If some remains, don't keep it on the flame; reheat it just before serving. If you don't happen to have an iron poker among your bar utensils, all is not lost. You'll get splendid results using the kitchen range as the source of heat. Don't boil wine, ale, hard cider or other alcoholic beverages. Heat them in a glass or enamel pan or pot. Hold the brew below a simmer; alcohol vaporizes at about 173 degrees Fahrenheit and leaves the potion listless.

Hot drinks should be served in heat-resistant vessels--stoneware, porcelain, pottery or metal--with handles. Don't pour hot liquid into a cold glass. Preheat mugs by rinsing with boiling water to ensure maximum heat retention and to inhibit cracking. When using a glass cup, place a metal spoon in it before adding hot liquid. Measure ingredients when making drinks; too much hot tea or water, for example, will give you a vapid, flat drink. Mulls depend on a balance of flavors.

Just as you'd want fresh coffee, tea, cream or butter for your hot potions, insist on prime spices, too. Whole cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, etc., retain their quality much longer than the ground kind. The American Spice Trade Association suggests a sniff test before using last year's inventory. When you sniff the spice, the flavor should be intense--it should jump out of the package at you, not merely suggest the variety. Spicing is a matter of taste; feel free to vary, substituting allspice for cloves or whatever you prefer.

What goes with glöggs and mulls? The usual assortment of chewy fruit, nut and spice cookies, yeast cakes such as Stollen, and so on. For a surprise treat, complement your hot drinks with hot cinnamon toast or slices of toasted brioche. Superb! And a reminder: (concluded on page 276)Claus That Refreshes(continued from page 134) Hot drinks are to be sipped slowly, not gulped or tossed back. Enjoy them.

[recipe_title]Santa's Glögg[/recipe_title]

(For six to eight)

Good ol' Santa is glowing in anticipation of the pleasures lurking in the punch bowl. Guests will react similarly.

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (750 ml.) full-bodied red table wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 tablespoons superfine sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 slices each orange, lemon, lime Whole cloves[/drinkRecipe]

Heat wine, sugar and cinnamon in enamel saucepan to just below simmer; stir occasionally to dissolve sugar. While mixture is heating, stud fruit slices with 2 or 3 cloves each. Place in warmed punch bowl and add wine. Make another batch immediately, in case Santa shows early.

[recipe_title]Saint John's WIne[/recipe_title]

(For two to three)

Cortina, Italy's noted ski resort, boasts 20 lifts and Saint John's wine.

[drinkRecipe]1/4 liter Italian white wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1/2 lemon, zest only[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Cointreau, warmed[/drinkRecipe]

Warm wine, sugar and lemon peel to just below simmer, stirring. Remove pan from heat; discard peel. Ignite Cointreau; add to pan. Douse flame after a moment; stir and pour into pre warmed cups.

[recipe_title]La Mongie High[/recipe_title]

For 12 to 14

Formulated by Christian Clement, a top French chef, and served at La Mongie, a Pyrenees resort hotel.

[drinkRecipe]2 bottles Partager, or other French red table wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 cup superfine sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 or 5 cardamom pods, split[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1 lemon, zest only--in 1 strip[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1 orange, zest only--in 1 strip[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]White pepper, several grinds[/drinkRecipe]

Heat one bottle wine with sugar and seeds from cardamom pods, stirring occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Add remaining bottle of wine, citrus peels and ground pepper. Bring to simmer; stir once or twice. Serve piping hot.

[recipe_title]Sizzline Wine Bullshot[/recipe_title]

(For three to four)

[drinkRecipe]1 can (10-1/2 ozs.) condensed beef bouillon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]10 ozs. full-bodied red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. port wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pepper, optional[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon wedges[/drinkRecipe]

In saucepan, heat beef bouillon and wines to just below simmer. Divide among 3 or 4 prewarmed heat-resistant glass cups. Add grind of pepper to each, if desired; stir. Garnish each portion with lemon wedge.

[recipe_title]Alpentine[/recipe_title]

A heady warmer from the new Deer Valley ski resort, Park City, Utah.

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. California red wine, such as Gamay[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-in. piece stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. dark rum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 strip orange peel, 1-1/4" x 2"[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 whole cloves[/drinkRecipe]

Heat wine, sugar and cinnamon in enamel saucepan; do not boil. Add rum and immediately remove pan from fire. Remove cinnamon stick and pour into large heat-resistant glass. Stud orange peel with cloves and place in glass.

[recipe_title]Poimiroo Plunge[/recipe_title]

(For six to eight)

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle California Pinot Noir[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. Chambord liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon curacao liqueur[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash orange bitters[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 cup sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]California brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lemon, sliced in rounds[/drinkRecipe]

Combine all ingredients except brandy and lemon slices in 2-quart saucepan; heat to simmer. Stir. Pour into warmed cups or mugs. Add lemon slice to each portion. Top each mug with a nip of brandy, to taste.

[recipe_title]Vin Chaud[/recipe_title]

(For 12)

[drinkRecipe]Peel of 1 lemon, cut in strips[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]8 cardamom pods, split[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 small pieces stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 cup superfine sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 cups water[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 liter dry red wine[/drinkRecipe]

In 2-quart enamel or glass pan, combine lemon peel, spices, sugar and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat; simmer 10 minutes. Remove spices and peel from pan; add lemon juice and wine. Heat mixture to just below simmer. Serve in heat-resistant punch cups.

[recipe_title]Snuggler's Notch[/recipe_title]

(Fox six to eight)

[drinkRecipe]1 bottle (750 ml.) full-bodied red wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. brandy[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1 orange[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 tablespoons brown sugar, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Several pieces stick cinnamon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Strips of orange peel[/drinkRecipe]

In 1/2-quart enamel saucepan, heat all ingredients but orange peel. Bring to just below simmer; don't boil. Remove cinnamon sticks. Pour mixture into prewarmed cups. Decorate each serving with strip of orange peel.

[recipe_title]Gingery Wine Today[/recipe_title]

(For two)

[drinkRecipe]2 thick slices lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 whole cloves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. Stone's Ginger Wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Boiling water[/drinkRecipe]

Stud lemon slices with 3 cloves each. Rinse 2 cups or mugs with very hot water; place prepared lemon slice in each. Divide ginger wine between cups. At the last, add 2 to 3 ozs. boiling water to each cup. Stir quickly and serve.

[recipe_title]Colonel Negus[/recipe_title]

A hot potion attributed to Colonel Francis Negus, who roamed London's smart spots during the time of Queen Anne.

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. port wine or sweet sherry[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 cube sugar[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Boiling water, optional[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Nutmeg[/drinkRecipe]

Slowly heat wine in enamel pot to just below simmer. Meanwhile, rub sugar briskly against lemon to pick up flavor oils. Place in heat-resistant punch cup and cover with warmed wine. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add tot of boiling water, if you like. Stir once. Lightly grate or sprinkle nutmeg over surface.

[recipe_title]Communard's Mull[/recipe_title]

(For two)

[drinkRecipe]8 ozs. red Bordeaux wine[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. crème de cassis[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 thick slice orange, halved[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Boiling water, optional[/drinkRecipe]

In enamel saucepan, heat wine and liqueur to just below simmer. Divide hot mixture between 2 prewarmed cups. Add orange piece to each. Serve with small pitcher of hot water--to be used at drinker's discretion.

If you require further encouragement to get going on our hot quaffs, consider this bit of New England philosophy:

Full many a man, both young and old

Is brought to his sarcophagus

By pouring water icy cold

Down his warm esophagus.

Cheers!

"Cortina, Italy's noted ski resort, boasts 20 lifts and Saint John's wine."