K.C. At the Bat

take it from george brett--the hot corner for barbecue is his own home town

In this High-Tech, fast-food world, it's reassuring to know that at least one primitive, slow-paced human passion continues to grow in popularity--and I'm not talking about baseball. The centuries-old lust is for native, smoky, American barbecue. Barbecue Texas style, Memphis style, Carolina style and Kansas City style--each has its merits. Charcoal grilling of fish, fowl and meats is also growing in popularity; note the current hysteria over mesquite-grilled foods. Many an outdoor chef turns out great steaks, burgers and grilled fish, but grilling ain't genuine American barbecue.

Traditional barbecue is the combination of slow cooking and continuous wood smoking of various meats over low heat to a crusty well-doneness. And in my opinion, the best of all barbecue breeds is Kansas City style. "Smoke it slow and cook it low" is the K.C. rib watchword to the wise. And when it's time for the sauce (at the end of the barbecue process, not the beginning), there are about 25 Kansas City--style sauces, from Bobby Bell's to Zarda, on the market.

[recipe_title]Woods and Smoke[/recipe_title]

Mesquite charcoal is excellent for grilling because of its high burning temperature (nearly twice that of most charcoal briquettes). But I prefer hickory charcoal or wood (hickory or pecan) logs for traditional barbecuing, because you want to maintain a 200-degree smoky-coal cooking environment, without flames. Soak the logs or chunks several hours or overnight in water, so that they won't flare up. And resist the temptation to peek into your closed cooker; every time you do, you lose the accumulated smoke and cause a fire flare-up by letting in fresh air. The result is a hotter, less smoky atmosphere that doesn't do the ribs or your taste buds any good.

(concluded on page 184)K.C. At the Bat(continued from page 110)

[recipe_title]Barbecue Sauces[/recipe_title]

Everybody has a secret recipe for a down-home barbecue sauce originally perfected by an ancestor around the time of the Civil War. To my way of thinking, store-bought Kansas City--style barbecue sauces sold in the area--and on a limited basis nationwide--are about as good as you can get. And they save you a lot of time messing around in the kitchen when you'd rather be out by the pool while the ribs do their own slow cooking.

When you select a barbecue sauce, always look at the color, smell for richness, check to see whether or not the sauce is thick enough to coat a piece of meat thoroughly and, most important, read the ingredients label. Sauces made with gums and food starch may be thick, but I prefer to invest my barbecue money in sauces that are loaded with pure tomato concentrate (instead of catsup) and heavy corn and molasses syrup. Chemicals, artificial colors, flavors or thickeners are taboo.

In the Kansas City area, Arthur Bryant's famous rib sauce is available only at his restaurant. Gates & Sons' sauce is available at restaurants and in area supermarkets. Gates's brand is produced in a mild and a regular version. K.C. Masterpiece, an area favorite that's also sold nationally, is available in five flavors: original, Southern style, hickory, mesquite and a no-salt-added variety.

Kansas City barbecue sauces are generally tomato-based and are flavored with vinegar and mild to hot peppery spices. They include sweeteners and Liquid Smoke in some cases. A hint of chili powder often comes across. Those Kansas City sauces available by mail order are listed in my book Bar B.Q.: Kansas City Style (Barbacoa Press), which also includes many prize-winning recipes, along with the history of barbecue.

[recipe_title]Ribs[/recipe_title]

Now a few words about deciphering rib talk. From experience, I've learned that most people don't know a sparerib from a country-style back rib or a three and under from an entire slab. So that you'll get what you want when you stop by the butchershop, here's a straight-to-the-point primer.

There are three basic cuts of pork ribs: country-style back ribs (ribs that have lots of meat but are cut short because they include some of the spinal bone); loin back ribs (the meatiest, most expensive ribs, which need little trimming); and--from lower on the side and the underside of the hog--spareribs (the least expensive ribs you can buy). If the spareribs are trimmed of gristle, you have a St. Louis or a Kelso-cut rib. Naturally, St. Louis ribs are more expensive than plain spareribs.

Next to the specific cut of the rib, the weight of the whole slab determines the meatiness--and the price. The smaller the rib, the meatier it is. Hence, whole slabs of ribs weighing two pounds and under ("two and under" or "two and down" in butcher talk) are the meatiest and most expensive. They are also called baby back or Danish ribs. Three and under, three to five pounds and five and over are the three other categories of whole slabs of pork ribs. So when you go to the meat market, ask the butcher for either loin back or two-and-down rib cuts.

One last point before I get to the recipes. When you prepare Kansas City--style ribs over a barbecue fire, don't trim off the fat until the ribs are done. Cooking the ribs fat side up will baste the meat naturally and will help produce the masterly, crusty exterior that protects a juicy interior.

Recipe number one is the simplest, least expensive version of traditional Kansas City--style barbecued ribs. (You can't go wrong with it when the talk turns to ribs.) Recipe number two is a spicier one that calls for Kansas City--style barbecue sauce as an option. (The soy sauce, honey and mustard add a distinctive culinary touch.) Recipe number three is for apartment and condo dwellers who don't have an outdoor barbecue. And remember, ribs are meant to be eaten with your fingers. Hold the knife and fork, please.

[recipe_title]Recipe Number One[/recipe_title]

(For four rib lovers)

[recipe]2 whole slabs (each 3 lbs. and under) spareribs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ozs. each black pepper and paprika and 4 ozs. granular brown sugar, all mixed with 1 teaspoon garlic powder and 1 teaspoon allspice[/recipe]

[recipe]Kansas City--style barbecue sauce--mesquite or hickory flavor[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt[/recipe]

Sprinkle ribs on all sides generously with spice mixture. Place in barbecue cooker, fat side up. Build small (10--15 briquettes) charcoal fire to one side of where ribs will smoke (no direct heat). Light fire and, after briquettes are reddish-white, add premoistened chunks of hickory or other hardwood. Place ribs away from fire and close smoker. Open only to add small amounts of charcoal and wet wood to maintain a smoky 200° heat. Barbecue 4 to 6 hours. During last 30 minutes, place ribs meat side up and salt, then pour barbecue sauce generously over ribs. Serve as soon as cool enough to handle.

[recipe_title]Recipe Number Two[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 whole slabs two-and-under loin back ribs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup honey[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup sweet, spicy mustard[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Kansas City--style barbecue sauce, optional[/recipe]

The day before, mix honey, soy sauce, mustard and lime juice. Place ribs in long, shallow marinating dish. Pour mixture over ribs, coating on all sides. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate (at least 41/2 hours). Day of barbecue, prepare fire as in recipe number one. When fire is ready, uncover ribs and place in barbecue unit. Check occasionally, since honey tends to burn. Baste every 30 minutes with any remaining marinade. Barbecue at 200° for 4 to 6 hours. These ribs may be eaten without sauce, but if you prefer, coat with barbecue sauce for last 30 minutes of cooking.

[recipe_title]Recipe Number Three[/recipe_title]

(For indoor, year-round enjoyment)

[recipe]2 whole slabs three-and-under loin-back ribs[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups apple juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Kansas City--style sauce--mesquite flavor 2 ozs. Liquid Smoke[/recipe]

[recipe]Mixture of spices as in recipe number one[/recipe]

Place ribs in roasting pan. Mix apple juice, 1 cup barbecue sauce and Liquid Smoke, and pour over ribs. Cover roasting pan with lid or heavy-duty aluminum wrap. Bake in preheated 400° oven for 1 hour. Use a ventilator fan, since Liquid Smoke produces a delicious but penetrating smell of barbecue. Remove ribs, pat dry and sprinkle seasoning generously on both sides. Place ribs meat side up on rack over pan or foil. Broil 3--5 minutes to brown. Lower ribs away from broiler unit and reduce oven temperature to 300°. Pour additional barbecue sauce to thoroughly coat ribs and bake uncovered 1/2 hour. Remove; cool to serve.

These indoor-barbecued ribs are a surprisingly delicious, simple version with an outdoor flavor.

And when you're in Kansas City, don't forget that there are more than 60 barbecue restaurants in the area--just in case you're tired of your own home cooking. Who knows? You just might sit down at a table next to George Brett.

"When you go to the meat market, ask the butcher for either loin back or two-and-down rib cuts."