Winter Whiskeys

British Spirits Maven John Doxat--author of Stirred, Not Shaken and the Complete Drinker's Companion--changes his alcohol intake with the weather as faithfully as he changes the oil in his motorcar. Come the first cold snap in autumn, he "abandons gin and vodka" and switches to whiskeys. Doxat's law is neither capricious nor eccentric. Most of us modify our fuel consumption with the seasons--though not, as a rule, as rigidly as this opinionated English scribe. Raw, nasty weather definitely calls for something richer and fuller, something with backbone to it--a drink that will send the blood coursing. What we're talking about are the titans of the back bar, the stalwart, generously endowed dusky infusions known to seasoned sippers as winter whiskeys.

Since Ireland lays claim to being the first to distill (continued on page 148) Winter Whiskeys (continued from page 82) the water of life (Bushmills, founded in 1608 and located near the northern coast of Northern Ireland, in County Antrim, is the world's oldest licensed distillery), it's appropriate to start our spirited quest in the Emerald Isle. Indeed, Irish whiskeys do reflect the skill and finesse that come with centuries of hands-on experience. One, Black Bush, is singularly suitable for duty in wintertime--or any other time, for that matter. Like all Irish whiskeys, Black Bush is triple distilled; but there are differences, too. The malt whiskey that goes into Black Bush is aged in sherry casks before being combined with a small amount of grain whiskey and then returned to the cask for additional aging. The result is a round, mellow, spectacularly smooth whiskey that has become something of a legend in its own time. According to the Bushmills distillery, Black Bush is available in a number of cities, including New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco and New Orleans. Chicago is just around the corner and, in fact, New Orleans was included as a market only because one local fanatic assembled more than 100 signatures of eager would-be customers and formally presented the petition to the company. What savvy export manager could say no to pressure like that?

Other cold-weather bets from Ireland are flavorful, medium-bodied Paddy, malty, robust Power's, regular Old Bushmills (in the same vein as Black Bush, though somewhat lighter), Jameson's and Jameson 1780. The last, though not as subtle as Black Bush, has a burnished quality that makes for easy drinking--not surprising, since this whiskey is aged in oak for 12 years.

Bourbon is the American whiskey, born, as they say, with the Constitution. As a group, bourbons--with layers of flavor that penetrate the body and unchill the marrow--are much more intense than American blended whiskeys. Before the age of central heating and draft-free houses, bourbon helped our forebears through grim winters on the frontier. It was also the civilizing, socializing drink of leisure moments. Those lusty first efforts became the prototypes for today's Benchmark, Jack Daniel's, I. W. Harper, Maker's Mark, Ten High and other contemporary brands. The higher-proof bourbons are particularly effective as cold-weather palliatives. Loftiest of all is Old Grand Dad 114 Barrel Proof Bourbon; Old Weller is a hefty 107 proof; Ezra Brooks, Eagle Rare and Wild Turkey bourbon hit the hydrometer at 101 proof; and all bonded bourbons are a full 100 proof. There's also a snappy Wild Turkey straight rye at 101 proof.

As far as we can tell, nobody has ever written a song about Glasgow in winter, and for good reason--the climate is hellish. Only one thing makes it tolerable: the native nip. No, not the popular blended Scotch--which is a combination of grain and malt whiskies--but the bold, burly, straight single-malt whisky. This is the original usquebaugh, that fraction in a blend that imparts the distinctive Scotch tang and tone. To sample a single malt undiluted with grain whisky is to know what true Scotch really is. The vast proportion of malt whiskies are from the Highlands. They're relatively delicate, flowery and lightly peated. Among the interesting examples available in the States are Cardhu, Glenfiddich's Still Master's Crock, The Glenlivet, Glenmorangie, Macallan 17 year and Mortlach.

Islay, off the southwest coast of Scotland, is the other important malt-whisky sector. Islay malts are quintessential winter whiskies--fat and redolent--with a pronounced peat reek. Laphroaig, a prime Islay, may be the biggest, smokiest, most pungent of all Scotch whiskies. Laphroaig 10 is the easiest to find. The 15-year-old Laphroaig, only recently introduced here, is mellow and nectareous. It's in limited supply--but worth finding. Talisker, from the Isle of Skye, strikes a neat balance between Highland and Islay malts.

Ordinarily, you wouldn't think of liqueurs as frost fighters, but there are exceptions to every rule. In this instance, the exception is the category of whiskey-based liqueurs. Among them are potions heavily laced with Scotch, Irish, Canadian and American whiskeys. It's hard to believe that anything with such enchanting taste would also have the firepower to stoke your furnace. But these smoothies are deceptive. They tend to run higher in proof than other liqueur categories, most of them registering a cozy 80 proof or better. And they're pleasantly balanced, the alcohol bite mitigating the forthright liqueur sweetness, leaving the palate refreshed.

Drambuie, Glayva and Lochan Ora are the leading Scotch-based liqueurs. They are marked by tastes of honey and herbs, along with light, peaty scents. Ireland's contribution to the cause is Irish Mist, a beguiling merger of Irish whiskey, heather honey and native herbs. It's in the same organoleptic ball park as the Scotch liqueurs but more aromatic and complex. The United States is represented by several whiskey liqueurs. Wild Turkey and Jeremiah Weed are solidly based on bourbon. You can detect vanilla and citrus notes commingled with the bourbon. Wild Turkey also hints of spice. Rock and Rye is a venerable whiskey liqueur that seems to have been forgotten--unfortunately. The bottle, however, is unforgettable, containing large sugar crystals and fruit segments--which account for the fruity scent. Southern Comfort, whose formula is kept secret, comes in both 80 and 100 proof. The significant Canadian entry in the whisky-liqueur sweepstakes goes by the evocative name of Yukon Jack. Presumably, it will keep your heart warm and your socks dry, even under Klondike conditions; at 100 proof, it should. Yukon Jack is quite sweet, but the Canadian character comes through. George M. Tiddy's Canadian liqueur, 72 proof, is essentially a restrained version of Yukon Jack.

Everything has its style, and these brown boomers are meant to be sipped neat from a snifter, poured over ice or taken with a light splash. They'll also add character to winter cocktails--such as the ones that follow.

[recipe_title]Irish Jig[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Pour 3/4 oz. Irish whiskey and 1/2 oz. Irish Mist over ice cube in small old fashioned or roly-poly glass. Stir briefly.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Scotch Fling[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Pour 1 oz. single-malt Scotch and 1/2 oz. Scotch liqueur over ice cube in small old fashioned or roly-poly glass. Stir briefly, to chill. Twist orange peel over drink, then drop into glass.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Bourbon Stomp[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Pour 1 oz. bourbon whiskey and 1/2 oz. bourbon liqueur over ice cube in small old fashioned or roly-poly glass. Stir briefly, to chill. Twist lemon peel over drink, then drop into glass.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Irish Handshake[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/2 ozs. Irish whiskey[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. triple sec[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. cream[/recipe]

[recipe]Nutmeg, optional[/recipe]

Shake first three ingredients briefly with cracked ice. Strain into small wineglass. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg, if desired.

[recipe_title]Highland Mist[/recipe_title]

Twist a strip of lemon peel over small old fashioned or cocktail glass; drop peel into glass. Pack glass with crushed ice. Pour Highland malt whisky over ice, to taste. Serve with short straw.

[recipe_title]Brown Belt[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/4 ozs. bourbon whiskey[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 oz. dark crème de cacao[/recipe]

Pour over one ice cube in old fashioned or roly-poly glass. Stir briefly, to chill.

[recipe_title]Klondike Gold[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 oz. Yukon Jack[/recipe]

[recipe]3 ozs. hot apple juice, or to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lime[/recipe]

[recipe]Sugar (optional)[/recipe]

[recipe]Cinnamon stick[/recipe]

Pour liqueur and apple juice into mug. Squeeze in juice of lime. Add sugar, if desired. Stir. Garnish with cinnamon stick.

[recipe_title]The O'Hara[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/2 ozs. Southern Comfort[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 oz. lime juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1-1/2 ozs. grapefruit juice[/recipe]

[recipe]Lime wheel[/recipe]

Shake first three ingredients briefly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with lime wheel.

[recipe_title]Dubliner[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1-1/2 ozs. Irish whiskey[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 oz. dry vermouth[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 oz. sweet vermouth[/recipe]

[recipe]Lemon wheel[/recipe]

Shake first three ingredients briefly with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Hang lemon wheel on rim of glass.

Bears hibernate and geese migrate to escape the winds of winter. But Homo sapiens, the thinking animal, has a more sensible solution. He lays in a generous supply of winter whiskeys and cheerfully waits for spring.

"Black Bush is a round, mellow, spectacularly smooth whiskey that has become something of a legend."