Pasta!

Back in 1960, a very young Jack Lemmon lusted after Shirley MacLaine in a semicomedy called The Apartment. The movie's big laugh came when boy invited girl to dinner and we saw him adroitly drain the spaghetti through a tennis racket. There's been a lot of tomato sauce under the gastronomical bridge since then, and we've learned that there is more to Italian cooking than meatballs and lasagna.

Social revolutions were the norm during the past 25 years, not least in the way Americans came to view what they eat. We want our food fast, light, healthy ... but tasty and classy, too. On all those counts, pasta is the nearly perfect choice. It comes in more than 300 types, has surprisingly few calories per serving and marries well with scores of meats, vegetables and seafood. Marathoners carbo load it, chefs invent with it, foodies coo over it. In a time of dinner as theater, it can be served hot or cold, as appetizer, salad, entree and even dessert. (Yes, there is a chocolate pasta.) And no cordon bleu diploma is required to turn out eye-filling platters for two or 20.

We're talking start to table in 45 minutes or less--no daylong simmering of sauces and plenty of time left for other evening activities. Pasta takes 20 to 30 minutes to cook, depending upon the type used and including bringing the water to a boil. And that's about all the time needed to prepare most of these sauces and accompaniments. Just do all the cleaning and chopping first.

Begin by using lots of water: four quarts for eight ounces of pasta, six quarts for 12 to 16 ounces. Bring it to a rolling boil. Pour in a tablespoon each of salt and olive oil, then add (continued on page 175)Pasta!(continued from page 118) the pasta and swirl it a few times to keep it from sticking. Cook uncovered. Fresh pasta takes only 30 seconds to two minutes and packaged dry pasta eight to 14 minutes, the thicker varieties requiring the greater time. Pasta should be just cooked through--al dente--no more. Fork out a strand and bite it to be certain. Drain the pasta in a colander, do not rinse, and serve immediately. The sauce should be ready and waiting, for the pasta will start to clump if it stands around too long.

[recipe_title]Shrimp and Tomato[/recipe_title]

(Serves two)

This is a simple, classic tomato sauce with a little added zing. Buy the shrimps already cleaned but uncooked. If you clean them yourself, allow an extra 15 minutes' prep time. Pinch off the tails, peel off the shells and run a sharp knife down the backs to remove the veins. A salad of endive leaves and radish slices goes well.

[recipe]1/2 lb. raw shrimps, peeled and deveined[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. medium pasta shells[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 garlic clove, peeled and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup onion, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large celery stalk, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups canned crushed tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried hot-pepper flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Start water for pasta. Heat oil in skillet Add garlic, onion and celery. Cook, stirring, until soft. Add tomatoes, pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste; stir. Bring to boil, then lower immediately to simmer. Cook 6 to 8 minutes. Add shrimps. Cook, stirring, just until they are pink, about 2 or 3 minutes. Pour over cooked pasta and sprinkle with parsley.

[recipe_title]Pasta Primavera[/recipe_title]

(Serves three or four)

The name refers to the season of new vegetables--primavera means spring in Italian--but this can be put together with whatever is available. Use almost anything: green beans, zucchini, squash, carrots, cauliflower, okra, peas. Fresh is best, but some frozen substitutes can be used, within reason. A salad isn't needed.

[recipe]1 large bunch broccoli[/recipe]

[recipe]12-16 asparagus spears[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large sweet pepper, preferably yellow[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium onion[/recipe]

[recipe]4 large mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]2 ripe tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]12 ozs. capellini (ultrathin pasta)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 garlic clove, peeled and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon dried basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried hot-pepper flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup fine bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]Parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Wash and drain vegetables. Cut off thick lower stem of broccoli and discard. Cut heads into small flowerets. Set aside in large bowl. Cut off asparagus buds and add to broccoli. Discard stalks. Cut sweet pepper lengthwise into quarters. Remove stem, seeds and inner ribs. Slice pepper quarters into thin strips. Add to broccoli and asparagus. Trim and peel onion. Cut into small chunks. Add to other vegetables.

Trim off tough ends of mushroom stems. Slice mushrooms lengthwise. Set aside in separate bowl. Quarter tomatoes. Remove and discard cores. Cut tomatoes into chunks. Set aside in another bowl.

Start water for pasta. Heat oil in skillet large enough to hold all ingredients. Add mushrooms. Cook for 2 minutes or until mushrooms begin to brown. Add broccoli, asparagus, sweet pepper and onion to skillet. Cook over high heat for 4 minutes, stirring almost constantly.

Add tomatoes, garlic, basil, pepper flakes, bread crumbs, salt and pepper. Cook 1 to 2 minutes more, stirring. Remove from heat.

Melt butter in small saucepan. Put cooked and drained pasta on a serving platter. Pour melted butter over it. Toss. If necessary, reheat vegetables. Arrange them over pasta. Toss gently. Serve with parmesan on the side.

[recipe_title]Chicken, Peppers and Pesto[/recipe_title]

(Serves two or three)

Pesto is a pungent sauce made of fresh basil, garlic, parmesan or romano cheese and pignoli or walnuts. While it is fairly easily made from scratch, the bottled or frozen products available in stores are usually more than adequate. Pesto enhances many fowl, veal and fish dishes and is tasty tossed with pasta. Here, it provides the essential tang for a brightly hued plate in the colors of the Italian flag. It may be necessary to heat the pesto slightly first.

[recipe]3 sweet red and/or yellow peppers[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small chicken breast, skinless and boneless[/recipe]

[recipe]1 bay leaf[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. green (spinach) fettuccini[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. Pesto[/recipe]

[recipe]Parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Preheat oven to 325°. Wash peppers and pat dry. Cut into quarters lengthwise. Core, seed and remove soft inner ribs. Cut peppers into thin strips.

Select baking pan large enough to hold pepper strips. Add olive oil and peppers, stirring to coat. Place in oven and roast for 20 minutes.

Cut away bits of fat, skin, gristle and membrane clinging to chicken breast. Place chicken in saucepan. Add enough water to cover. Add bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, then lower immediately to simmer. Cover and cook until pink is gone from center of thickest part of chicken, about 7 to 10 minutes. In the meantime, start water for pasta.

Drain poached chicken. Discard bay leaf. Cut chicken into strips; set aside. Remove roasted pepper strips from oven. Toss chicken and pesto in pan with pepper strips. Return pan to oven. Turn off oven. When the fettuccini is cooked and drained, put it into serving bowl or on platter. Pour and scrape chicken, peppers and pesto over pasta. Serve with parmesan on the side.

[recipetitle]Tuna, Olives and Tomato[/recipetitle]

(Serves two or three)

This is a pantry dish, assembled from ingredients that can be kept indefinitely on the shelf or in the fridge. (The garlic and onion are optional.)

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium onion, chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 1b. fusilli (long spiral-shaped pasta)[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups canned crushed tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon dried basil[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 7-oz. can chunk white tuna, drained[/recipe]

[recipe]12-16 black and/or green olives, pitted and chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons capers, drained and chopped[/recipe]

Heat oil in large skillet. If using garlic and onion, add to skillet and stir until soft. Put on water for pasta.

Add tomatoes to skillet. Heat briefly, stirring. Add basil and salt and pepper to taste. Stir. Bring to low boil, then turn down immediately to simmer. Cook about 15 minutes. Flake tuna. Add tuna, olives and capers, Stir. Simmer 5 minutes more. Pour over cooked pasta and serve.

[recipetitle]Clams In Green Sauce[/recipetitle]

(Serves two)

A heady, mildly astringent sauce complements briny-fresh clams. Serve with salad and bread.

[recipe]18 clams, the smallest available, in their shells[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. linguine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 clove garlic, peeled and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 a cup bottled clam juice[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup dry white wine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup scallions, trimmed and chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Pinch of dried hot-pepper flakes[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon cornstarch[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon water[/recipe]

Scrub clams under cold running water. Drain. Start water for pasta. Put olive oil and butter into large skillet with lid. Add garlic and cook until soft, not brown.

Add clams, clam juice and wine. Stir thoroughly and cover tightly. Cook over medium-high heat. When clams start to open (after about 5 minutes), add scallions, parsley and pepper flakes.

Blend cornstarch and water in cup. Add to skillet. Stir until blended. Pour over cooked linguine and serve.

[recipetitle]Meatballs In Curried Cream Sauce[/recipetitle]

(Serves three or four)

Think of this as spaghetti and meatballs detoured through India. When mixing the meat and rolling it into balls, don't handle it more than absolutely necessary or the meat will get rubbery. The amount of curry indicated is only for flavor and aroma, not hotness.

[recipe]3/4 lb. ground pork or veal[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup onion, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 cup fine bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon parsley, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg, lightly beaten[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon ground cumin[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large celery stalk, finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. Spaghetti or egg noodles[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon curry powder[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup chicken broth[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

Place ground meat in mixing bowl. Set aside. Melt butter in saucepan. Add garlic and half the chopped onion. Cook until soft, not brown. Add cooked onion and garlic to ground meat. Add bread crumbs, parsley, egg, cumin and salt and pepper to taste. Mix ingredients thoroughly with hands, then shape into meatballs the size of golf balls. There should be about 12.

Heat oil in skillet large enough to hold meatballs in one layer without touching. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, shaking and stirring until browned all over. Sprinkle rest of onion and celery around meatballs. Cook, stirring, until onions and celery are soft. Remove skillet from heat.

Remove meatballs with slotted spoon. Set aside. Start water for pasta.

Sprinkle curry powder over celery and onions. Stir to coat evenly. Add chicken broth and heavy cream. Stir. Return skillet to heat. Bring sauce to boil and cook until reduced by about one third. Add meatballs and lower heat to medium. Cook 5 minutes more, stirring frequently. Pour sauce with meatballs over pasta.

[recipetitle]The Right Stuff[/recipetitle]

Never doubt the importance of top-of-the-bin and just-off-the-boat ingredients. Credible versions of these recipes can be rendered with standard supermarket products, but they are markedly enhanced by the use of the freshest possible vegetables and seafood and by the top imported grades of canned tomatoes, olives and oils. Have the parmesan freshly grated, grind the pepper at the time of preparation, use unsalted sweet butter.

These recipes are designed for hearty appetites. If, in the middle of the meal, you and your date have to do something else, remember: Leftovers can be heated up in a double boiler for the next morning's brunch.