Sunday Morning Coming Down

If a Band of extraterrestrials opted to invade our hunk of planet Earth, they'd do well to schedule the attack for a Sunday at high noon, the traditional coming-down time. That's when the entire country, at least the adult population, is engrossed in the weekly bloody-mary ritual--preparing and serving the sanguine sip. There are many coming-down drinks, but the bloody mary is the only one designed for that purpose. The bloody-mary story has been told before: how it was conceived at Harry's New York Bar is Paris during the roaring Twenties as succor for the morning trade; how it was brought to the States in 1934 by Pete Petiot, the gent who first compounded the drink at Harry's; how it languished, all but unnoticed, until Smirnoff got behind it in 1955; how it then zoomed to popularity, hitting the top ten on the cocktail charts, where it has remained ever since.

Bartenders become emotional about the bloody mary, almost coming to blows over such esoterica as the merits of lime us. lemon, whether or not to garnish and whether or not it is still a bloody mary if you substitute gin, tequila or rum for the vodka. A more basic bone of contention is whether to shake, stir or blenderize. The objective, in each case, is to whip up a smooth, full-flavored potion. Stirred drinks sometimes separate, and those blenderized may become watered down or turn into snow cones. The consensus is clearly for shaking; but even so, there are marked differences in handling among the pros. Big Ed Moose, sachem of San Francisco's Washington Square Bar & Grill, doesn't fool around. He gives the shaker eight hefty hoists--"over the shoulder." That approach makes Michael McCarty of Michael's in Santa Monica wince. "Just shake it once, that's enough," he says. Bru Mysak of the "21" Club confides that he rocks the shaker sensuously, as if he were shaking maracas, so as not to "bruise the ice." Not everyone's that heavily into shaking. Boniface John Bruno of Manhattan's Pen & Pencil restaurant believes that the difference between a wimpy drink and a ruddy bracer is in the juice and vodka. He prescribes "thick, icy-cold tomato juice," the best there is, because juice is two thirds of the drink. And he insists on a clean, neutral vodka.

Barroom pundits agree that the citrus, lemon or lime, should be the real stuff--not bottled--and freshly squeezed. It's best to start each round from scratch, but if that's impractical--say when you're hosting a monster coming-down brunch--it's OK to make the mixture in advance. Just hold the citrus and add a squeeze of lemon or lime to each glass before serving.

If you credit everything you hear, bloody mary has alleviated more human grief than Flo Nightingale. But it's silly to reserve the carmine quaff just for the Sunday-morning coming down. Enjoy it any time--any way you like it. Following are some of the more intriguing variations on the bloody-mary theme.

(continued on page 167) Sunday Morning (continued from page 90)

[recipe_title]Harry's Original Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

From Harry's New York Bar, Paris, where it all began.

[drinkRecipe]1 dash salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 grinds black pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 dash Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/4 lemon (about1/2 oz.)[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. thick tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

Add first 5 ingredients to chilled 10-oz. glass. Muddle to combine. Toss several ice cubes (not cracked ice) into glass. Add vodka; stir quickly. Add tomato juice; stir again to combine well, and serve.

Note: Harry's New York Bar, Munich, serves a slightly different bloody mary, substituting 2 dashes cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon dehydrated horseradish for Tabasco.

[recipe_title]Brennan's Spicy Creole Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

(For two)

Owen Brennan, of Brennan's in New Orleans, says he serves 10,000 of these every week, mostly at breakfast.

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 cups tomato-vegetable juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2-1/2 ozs. canned bouillon, undiluted[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon fresh lime juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons Pickapeppa[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon salt, if desired[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lawry's lemon-pepper seasoning[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Celery stick[/drinkRecipe]

Shake all ingredients but lemon pepper and celery stick in shaker with ice cubes, just until chilled. Strain over fresh ice in 2 12-oz. glasses. Sprinkle lemon pepper lightly over both drinks. Celery stick optional.

[recipe_title]W.S.B&G. Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

The Washington Square Bar & Grill uses three forms of heat in its bloody mary, but just a whisper of each, so the drink is balanced but not a burner.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. thick tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 oz. beef bouillon[/drink-recipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/8 oz. Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Tabasco, to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch cayenne[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pinch celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 grinds black pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Add all ingredients but lime to shaker full of ice and agitate vigorously. Strain into chilled wineglass or goblet. Squeeze in juice of lime; add peel to glass. Stir once.

Note: W.S.B.&G. co-owner Sam Deitsch takes his mary the Mexican way.

First he knocks back a shot of vodka neat, then he chases it with a few gulps of the tomato-bouillon mixture.

[recipe_title]Bloody Martini[/recipe_title]

A clever twist on a couple of classic cocktails--from the classy Pen& Pencil restaurant.

[drinkRecipe]1-1/2 ozs. gin or vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. dry vermouth[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. tomato juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. Pickapeppa or Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 shakes celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 grinds black pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lime wedge[/drinkRecipe]

Add all ingredients but lime to shaker with ice. Shake vigorously. Squeeze in lime juice, then drop peel into glass. Garnish with stuffed olive if desired.

[recipe_title]Michael's Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

(For a brunch lunch)

Michael McCarty started out as a chef. He used that training to advantage in devising this drink mixture.

[drinkRecipe]1 quart thick tomato juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 small Maui onion (or other sweet onion), quartered[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 cloves garlic, halved[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 fresh jalapeño pepper with seeds, halved[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bunch chives, chopped[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 bunch cilantro, chopped[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 yellow bell pepper, quartered and seeded[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 red bell pepper, quartered and seeded[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon salt, or to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

Combine all ingredients in large jar; stir well, cover and marinate in refrigerator for 24 hours. When ready to use, strain mixture and add 1/2 cup orange juice. Stir, taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.

To serve: Pour 2 ozs. chilled mixture and 1-1/2 ozs. vodka into shaker, and shake just once. Pour over rocks in old fashioned glass. Squeeze juice of lime wedge into glass, drop in peel. Decorate glass with celery stick and sprig of cilantro if desired.

[recipe_title]A.F.C.'S Bloody Basil[/recipe_title]

Note how New York's American Festival Café neatly straddles the lemon/lime controversy in this aromatic drink.

[drinkRecipe]4 large fresh basil leaves[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1-1/4 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]5 ozs. tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 or 2 dashes Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon horseradish[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Celery stick and lime wedge, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Clip stems of basil. Add all ingredients but garnish to chilled blender container; blend until smooth. Pour over ice cubes in 12- or 14-oz. glass. Plant celery stick in glass. Squeeze in lime juice and drop peel into glass.

[recipe_title]"21" Club Supermary[/recipe_title]

The "21" Club's talented bartender, Bru Mysak, will mix your drink any way you want it. Here's a special mary he whipped up for Clark Gable.

[drinkRecipe]1_1/2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2_1/2 ozs. thick tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. clam juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. consommé[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon prepared horseradish[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes Hungarian paprika[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 or 4 grinds black pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 dashes celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

Add all ingredients to shaker with ice cubes. Shake gently, with rocking action, just until ingredients are combined. Strain over ice in chilled 12-oz. collins glass.

[recipe_title]Bartender's Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

From Dan Lessa, president of the International Bartender's School, New York City--an educated bloody mary.

[drinkRecipe]1_1/4 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. tomato juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon tomato paste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/3 teaspoon white horseradish[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 grinds black pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Salt, if desired[/drinkRecipe]

Chill everything that's chillable. Add vodka, juice, tomato paste and two ice cubes to shaker. Roll shaker gently, using wrist action; do not shake up and down. Add remaining ingredients and another ice cube. Turn shaker over several times more. Strain into chilled glass without ice.

[recipe_title]Bermuda Mary[/recipe_title]

A local variation on the bloody mary from the Rum Runner's Pub & Restaurant, Hamilton, Bermuda--featuring a hot local product, sherry peppers.

[drinkRecipe]1_1/2 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. V-8, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 oz. Outerbridge's Sherry Peppers Sauce[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 oz. Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Juice of 1/4 lemon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Pepper, to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Salt, if desired[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Lemon slice and celery stick, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Stir all ingredients but garnish until well combined. Pour over ice in collins glass. Hang lemon wheel on rim of glass. Add celery stick.

[recipe_title]Soft Landing[/recipe_title]

Harry's Bar, Florence, adds the digestif properties of Unicum to the restorative powers of bloody mary for a gentle Unicuming down.

[drinkRecipe]11/4 ozs. vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1 teaspoon Unicum[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]3 ozs. thick tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons lemon juice[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 dashes Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Salt, to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cucumber slice, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Add all ingredients but garnish to shaker with ice. Shake well to combine. Strain into wineglass. Hang slice of cucumber on rim of glass.

[recipe_title]Ritzy Mary[/recipe_title]

(For four)

From the Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta, a drink they call the ultimate bloody mary.

[drinkRecipe]4 ozs. Pertsovka vodka[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 ozs. Aalborg Akvavit[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]12 ozs. tomato juice, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon horseradish[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon Pickapeppa[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon white pepper[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/4 teaspoon celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Tabasco, to taste[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Cherry tomato, shrimp and tall celery stick, for garnish[/drinkRecipe]

Prepare 4 tall, salt-rimmed glasses (directions below). Combine all ingredients but garnish in large pitcher or mixing glass. Stir well; chill. Fill prepared glasses with ice cubes. Pour tomato mixture over ice in glasses, dividing evenly. Garnish each glass with cherry tomato, shrimp and celery stick.

To frost glasses: Combine 2 ozs. salt with I scant teaspoon Lawry's seasoned salt and sprinkle onto linen napkin. Moisten rims of glasses with lemon juice. Invert glasses and swirl in salt mixture.

[recipe_title]Blanco Bloody Mary[/recipe_title]

(For two)

Casa Grasanti, Louisville, has a strong commitment to wine, which is reflected in this untraditional bloody mary.

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. V-8, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]6 ozs. dry white wine, chilled[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]2 teaspoons beef broth or bouillon[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash Tabasco[/drinkRecipe]

[drinkRecipe]Dash celery salt[/drinkRecipe]

Combine all ingredients in pitcher. Stir well and chill. To serve, pour over ice in 2 wineglasses, dividing mixture evenly.

What's the best bloody mary of all? That's a matter of taste. What's the best bloody-mary presentation? T.G.I. Friday's, hands down. This New York bistro brings the bottle to the table and encourages you to add as much vodka as you like to your drink. Nice idea! Why not try it at your next brunch blast?

"The Washington Square Bar & Grill uses three forms of heat in its bloody mary, but just a whisper of each."