Winning the Skin Game

Your stomach is as washboard tight as Dolph Lundgren's (well, almost), and your wardrobe is the best of Miami Vice. It's not that you're so vain; you've just realized that competition, whether for love or for money, has heated up, and there's no reason to neglect what literally stares the prospective amour or boss in the face: the skin. Well, skin is skin, so the requirements for its care are essentially the same whether it's male or female. You don't have to buy an arsenal of products or waste a lot of time fussing. Consistency is the byword when it comes to maintenance. The ladies pay attention to your skin: Why not provide them with a healthier eyeful?

The Basic Regimen

There are three important steps in a daily regimen that takes about five minutes twice a day: cleansing, toning and moisturizing. That's it. Once that becomes second nature, you can add exfoliation and masks (more about them later).

Your skin type and habits determine your regimen. Take a moment to study your skin under strong lighting. Do you have any broken capillaries around your nose and cheeks? A dermatologist may be able to zap some of them, but what are you doing to cause them in the first place? Too many saunas? Too much alcohol? Too much exposure to extreme cold? Check where the lines on your face are forming and deepening. What habits (grimaces, tics, mannerisms) are ironing these into your visage?

If you're prone to breakouts around the jaw line, is it because you often prop your head up with your hand at your desk? Are you a heavy coffee drinker? Caffeine is extremely dehydrating and can cause dry flaky patches. Assess how much damage any of your personal habits may be causing your looks.

Finally, try a blot test to pinpoint your skin type. Cleanse your face thoroughly before going to bed, and then, before washing in the morning, press a single sheet of white, unscented tissue onto your face. Hold it up to the light to see the map of oil spots. You can then determine whether you need products designed for oily, dry or normal skin. This test does not permanently establish your skin type, however. Age and such variables as weather can cause it to change from month to month.

Cleansing: Think in terms of cleansing rather than scrubbing, especially if you have skin problems. (Abrasives, contrary to what you may have heard, have a nasty way of spreading infection.) Use cool to tepid water rather than hot; hot can be harmful and doesn't clean any better than cool.

Think of your face as starting from the clavicle (collarbone) up. Don't stop at the jaw line, particularly since your ears (and the back of your neck) are more exposed than most women's and require extra care.

I recommend cleansing lotions rather than soaps, because they tend to be less harsh and less likely to leave a residue; but many men prefer soap. At least select a brand that has no detergents or deodorants and is specifically formulated for the face.

Cleanse in the morning and at night. If your skin is very dry, you may wish to use your soap or lotion only at night and rinse your face with tepid water in the morning.

Toning: Follow cleansing with a liquid toner (astringent for problem skin, a nonalcohol formula for normal-to-dry skin) to remove any residue. Don't use rubbing alcohol, which is too harsh. Soak a cotton ball in toner and use circular motions. If you have a beard, a clean cotton towel will prevent an unsightly lint trail. Avoid the areas around the eyes and mouth, since they're prone to dryness.

If you work out, leave a bottle of toner in your gym bag. Swabbing some over your face, chest and neck after exercise is a great refresher. You don't need cotton--squirt some into your hands and splash it on, or use the edge of a clean cotton towel.

Moisturizing: Ever see what happens to wet leather left in the sun? But if you slather on oil to seal the water in, the leather stays soft and supple. That's how moisturizers work. Water provides the true hydration, but it must be sealed in by an emollient in order to work.

Lighter oils come in bottles, sometimes with a pump, and should be used if your skin is in the slightly oily--to--normal range. (If you have very oily skin, skip this step; ask your dermatologist for advice.) Men with normal-to-dry skin can use a pump lotion, with a heavier cream for the eye, mouth and neck areas.

Creams contain heavier oils and come in jars; they don't pour. Skin in the dry--to--extremely dry range would benefit from over-all use of these or an occlusive agent such as petroleum jelly (though many men find it too greasy for daytime wear).

Whether you use lotion or cream, moisturize after toning, or more often if your skin is very dry.

Exfoliating and using masks: Exfoliation is the process of sloughing off the dead skin cells on your epidermis in order to stimulate the growth of fresh new cells. You do it naturally on the lower half of your face by shaving (a possible reason men don't wrinkle as readily or early in these areas as women do). It's a powerful weapon in the fight against wrinkles, sallowness, yellowing of the skin and superficial blemishes. (If you have problem skin, have exfoliation done by a professional cosmetician or dermatologist, (continued on page 163) Skin Game (continued from page 93) or proceed very cautiously, as you risk spreading the infection by rubbing your face.)

Many exfoliants are on the market, but some are quite abrasive--ground apricot hulls or nutshells--and are likely to redden or tear the skin. Gentle effectiveness, not sanding, is the aim. The following home treatment will suffice until you've found a product in your drugstore or skin-care salon that suits you.

Table salt without iodine (not coarse or kosher salt) works, because, unlike most available exfoliants, it melts before it becomes too abrasive. Cleanse your skin before exfoliating, and then pour some salt into your palm and use a damp finger to apply it to the skin.

Avoid the areas around your eyes and lips and use light, circular motions over your face, neck and chest until the salt melts, remoistening your fingers as you work.

Do not rub too hard, and don't stay in any one spot too long. Keep moving your hand over your entire face and neck, as well as behind your ears. Continue adding small amounts of salt as it dries or is absorbed.

Rinse thoroughly afterward, and follow with an ice cube run lightly and quickly over exfoliated areas (optional). Then add a thin layer of moisturizer if you have normal-to-dry skin.

Try exfoliation all over--skin isn't just on your face and neck. I often suggest that couples treat each other to a massage variation by exfoliating each other's backs. It has all the sensuous pluses of a massage, as well as a skin-cleansing bonus.

For a full salon treatment, follow exfoliation with a mask. Masks are generally either hydrating, to replenish and feed the skin, or tightening, to absorb oils and temporarily firm the pores. Clay or mud masks are often designed for normal-to-oily skin, while brands with heavy oil content are suitable for normal-to-dry. Some masks can even be brushed on and peeled off. All varieties aid in removing dead skin cells, and if you don't have time for a cat nap, a ten-minute mask has been known to work wonders in restoring (at least for the afternoon or evening) vigor and firmness to skin punished by lack of sleep or life's minor vices.

For Gentlemen Only

Here's a quick rundown on your specific skin-care needs:

Shaving: Never shave when your skin is dry. Unsoftened whiskers are like wire; but when softened by warm water or steam, they'll absorb one third of their weight. Their expansion reduces the force necessary for shaving--meaning less irritation. Right after showering is an ideal time to shave. If that's not possible, at least give your face a two-to-four-minute preshave soaking by splashing with tepid water and cleansing lotion. Commercial preshaves are either oily or astringent--one to lubricate, the other to dry and stiffen the hair. Choose one compatible with your skin type.

If you have dry skin, choose a shaving cream full of emollients. If your skin is oily, use a lather (such as mentholated cream) that has an antigreasing formula. You may also lather up with your regular mild face soap.

Use short, light, minimal strokes when shaving. Work in the direction of growth. For some men, this may mean a number of patches veering off in slightly different directions, particularly on the neck. Don't make the mistake of thinking that going against the grain gets more of the whisker; instead, you're increasing your chances of getting ingrown hairs. Pulling the skin too taut while shaving can likewise cause whiskers to spring back into the skin.

Save the most sensitive or contoured areas (such as the chin) for last. When you've finished, rinse thoroughly and pat dry instead of rubbing your face with a towel.

If you suffer from razor burns or rash, run an ice cube over your face quickly and with even pressure. Avoid styptic pencils; the ingredients have been known to scar some men.

If you shave with an electric razor, use a pre--electric shave, which has a high alcohol content to make the whiskers stand on end, as well as lubricating oils to allow the razor to glide. You should still soften the skin by washing first and rinse off thoroughly after shaving. If you have normal to-oily skin, finish with an astringent to remove any traces of the pre--electric shave.

If you shave twice a day, try to use an electric razor at least once to reduce the chances of irritation.

If you have problem skin, try both blade and electric razors to see which best avoids nicking pimples. Some men grow a beard; others find that that only aggravates the trouble. In any case, give yourself a breather as often as possible by letting your beard grow on weekends. Rinse with cold water after shaving (ice particularly irritated sections to reduce redness or swelling) and finish with an astringent.

Black men, and those with very curly hair, are especially bothered by shaving bumps--inflammations of the hair follicles that can easily turn into ingrown hairs. The coarse hair curls backward and re-enters the skin. In severe cases, your dermatologist may recommend electrolysis--a method of using a needle and electrical current to zap individual follicles and eventually destroy the hair bulb. A (concluded on page 166; see sidebar on page 165) number of sessions are usually necessary, depending upon the hair texture and the size of the area, but it can be expensive and time consuming, and there's no guarantee that it will work.

After-shaves: Don't splash too much after-shave and cologne on your face. Both products are loaded with alcohol, and you may be aging your lower face and neck beyond their years.

Many fragrance-free shaving gels and balms now come with moisturizers and emollients (some in easy-to-use pump bottles) for those with normal-to-dry skin. Talcs, meanwhile, absorb oils and perspiration on the skin. But don't overdo, or you'll look as if your face has been floured. Too much can also clog pores.

No sweat: Sweating is a skin cleanser rather than a skin clogger. Perspiration is an excretion of mostly water, various salts and minerals and acidic waste products. Although women actually have more sweat glands than men, men sweat more out of fewer glands. The problems--from odor to breakouts--start when sweat left on the skin triggers a bacterial build-up.

Your athleticwear is another bacterial breeding ground; anywhere that moisture is trapped is susceptible. Change clothing and towels as often as you work out, and wear socks with a lining of polypropylene that will absorb perspiration. Commonsense cleanliness--a shower and thorough drying after exercise--should do the trick, but if you're still troubled by odor or nervous sweating, use talcum powder to dry problem areas.

Cold-Weather Considerations

Harsh winter conditions and artificial indoor heating can result in severe drying. There's a natural loss of moisture when it's cold, because the air can't hold the humidity. You can combat this by buying a humidifier and turning down the heat. Most office buildings are terribly overheated in winter.

Wash your face less frequently in winter, and although long, hot showers are tempting during a cold snap, try to limit them. Excess washing strips your skin of its natural oils. You may also need a heavier moisturizer than you would use in summer. Don't lick your lips to moisten them; that. only compounds chapping. Carry a lip balm instead.

When skiing, protect yourself with warm clothing and moisturizers that contain sun screen.

Problem Areas

Acne is primarily a genetically and hormonally caused affliction, with men more apt than women to suffer severe cases. Diet has long been a scapegoat, but current research has shown that food shouldn't be accorded the lion's share of blame. Everyone reacts differently to specific foods; chocolate or seafood, to name two of the oft-blamed, may trigger a reaction in one person but not another. (Coffee, alcohol, tea and spicy foods, however, have been credited of late with inducing acne rosacea, a form of adult acne.)

It's difficult to convince acne sufferers that overdoing treatment exacerbates their problem, because a "more is better" thinking prevails to an insidious degree--if some washing or drying agent works, then using more will mean a faster cure. But too much drying traps the infection under your skin. Since the oil and debris cannot be exuded through the pores, they spread around underneath. And scrubbing too hard or too frequently can break pustules open and spread the bacteria.

Bathroom surgery, or pore squeezing, is also a sure-fire way to push the bacteria deeper. Keep your hands off your face. Consult a dermatologist for proper treatment, which could be oral antibiotics, topical treatments or anti-inflammatory injections. If your problem is severely cystic, ask him or her about Accutane, an oral treatment related to vitamin A that has had remarkable results in many cases. Make sure your doctor advises you of the drug's side effects.

The Sexual Connection

There's quite a debate raging over how much stress and emotional well-being have to do with skid, particularly regarding acne; and while their effects may vary from person to person, I've seen many cases in which a divorce, severe job pressure or other personal trauma reflected directly on the way a man looked.

There have been experiments in which groups with skin problems were divided equally, with half being sent to dermatologists and half to psychologists--and both groups demonstrated equal recovery rates. I've also noticed that men who embark on a healthy and happy sex life and satisfying personal relationships can actually correct a skin problem. Carry yourself with a good attitude, learn to handle stress and keep reaffirming that you're attractive. Not only will it work wonders for your skin, it will bolster your demeanor and sense of self-confidence.

Playboy's Guide to Saving Face

A staggering array of new skin-care products for men has forever changed what the well-dressed face is wearing. Here's our buyer's guide (all prices are approximate).

Package Deals

Start out with the basics: cleanser, toner, moisturizer. Each of these lines provides everything from soaps to masks. Begin a no-frills regimen with the products designed specifically for your skin type and add exfoliants and masks as you wish later on.

Clinique: Allergy-tested, fragrance-free line. Face soap ($8.50/six ounces); Scruffing Lotion, an exfoliant ($8.50/six ounces); M Lotion, a nongreasy moisturizer ($9.50/two ounces). Plus: Cream Shave, Face Scrub, Non-Streak Bronzer, Touch Stick (for blemishes).

Requisites, by Royal Copenhagen: Special products for all skin types. Oily Skin Cleansing Lotion ($11/6.5 ounces); Oily Skin Moisturizer ($14/1.6 ounces). Plus: Dry Skin Cleansing Cream, Dry Skin Moisturizer, Deep Pore Cleanser.

Lancôme: Programme Homme includes Gel Moussant Visage, an oil-free cleansing gel with emollients ($10/4.9 ounces); Fluide Protecteur moisturizing lotion ($17.50/3.4 ounces).

Jan Stuart: Normal-to-oily and normal-to-dry formulas. Combines shaving and cleansing procedures to help men avoid double washing. Cleansers: Herbal Shaving/Cleansing Creame ($10/four ounces), normal-to-oily; Collagen Shaving/Cleansing Creame ($10/four ounces), normal-to-dry. Toners: Eucalyptus After Shave/Astringent ($10/four ounces), normal-to-oily; Aloe After Shave/Toner ($10/four ounces), normal-to-dry; plus many other products.

The Gruene Natural Skincare and Shaving System: A simple, four-step program that comprises Daily Cleansing Scrub ($11.50/four ounces); Aloe Cream Shave ($7/four ounces); Aloe Aftershave, an alcohol-free toner ($8.50/four ounces); and Moisture Formula, a greaseless lotion ($14/two ounces).

Skin Maintenance for Men, from Paco Rabanne of Paris: This comprehensive line includes Cleansing Bar ($12/5.3 ounces); Facial Toner C2 ($15/3.4 ounces); Facial Scrub CI ($15/1.7 ounces); and Maintaining Color Tone E2, to promote outdoor color while protecting you from sun and weather exposure ($22/1.7 ounces). Dr. Fernando Aleu, president of the company, has also developed the Discipline Skin Care line for men and women, which includes Only Soap ($8) and other products.

Lauder for Men: A line that includes Daily Cleansing Bar ($10/five ounces); Face Scrub ($9.50/three ounces); Close-Shave Cream ($7.50/four ounces); Skin Comfort Lotion ($12.50/1.75 ounces); and Clean-Face Tonic ($9.50/six ounces).

Finishing Touches

Once you've made a cleanse/tone/moisturize routine second nature, you may want to experiment with specialty items.

Lip Relief, by Requisites: Nongreasy, with jojoba oil ($8/1.2 ounces).

Eye Wrinkle Control Gel, by Requisites: Special conditioning for eye area ($15/.5 ounce).

Enzyme Derma-Layering Powder, by Nance Mitchell: Activated by water, this nonabrasive exfoliant sloughs off dead skin cells, makes expression lines less crisp ($40/1.5 ounces).

Moist Skin Lotion, by Nance Mitchell: Oil-light, with sun screen. Excellent after-shave ($12/two ounces).

Mousse à Racer "Extraordinaire," by Lancôme: An emollient-rich shaving mousse ($10.50/5.25 ounces).

Teint Sport, by Lancôme: Sport-tint gel with moisturizers and sun screen ($10/1.7 ounces).