Part One
Sophisticated. Cool. Comfortable elegance. Imaginative color statements. Double-breasted jackets. Easy trousers with cuffs and pleats. Colorfully striped shirts. Light-ground paisley, foulard and border-print neckwear. Quality and luxury fabrics and fibers such as silk and silk blends, uncommon seersucker, lightweight wools and light wool blends, cotton oxford and twill. Shoes of soft and fancy woven leathers--oxfords, loafers. The preceding notes, made months before part one of this year's Playboy Spring and Summer Fashion Guide went to press, are a summary of where tailored clothes, from business- to eveningwear, will be headed for at least the next six months (part two, next month, will address sportswear, from denim-look knits to patterned summer sweaters and playful picture-print shirts). What should you look for when going out to shop for a summer suit or sports jacket? First, consider whether you want an unconstructed, semiconstructed or fully constructed jacket. Unconstructed means that little or no canvas is used to shape the chest area and lapels. This year, you'll see all three types of jackets represented: Some will be lined, some unlined, but almost all will feature strong, shaped shoulders rather than the natural look.
Expect lapels, along with ties, to be a little wider this spring. The rule of thumb when wedding a tie to a lapel is this: The widest part of the tie should be no more or less than an eighth of an inch wider or thinner than the widest part of the lapel. Ties will remain narrow at the neck (small knots are the look you'll want), then widen at the apron. Bow ties, always self-tied, are making a comeback.
Striped shirts, in strengths and hues from bold and brash to subdued and subtle, dominate in a variety of collar styles: Straight collar and small spread is the favorite, with buttondowns in linen or oxford cloth a close second. Contrasting collars and cuffs are also gaining popularity, especially among younger men.
Suspenders, or (as they say in Blighty) braces, in stripes, subtle paisleys or textured-linen pastels have nicely buttoned up part of the pants market. They should always be button-ons, not clip-ons, by the way, unless you're about six years old. Last, consider consigning your do-all digital to the top drawer for a while in favor of a retro or antique wrist watch. It will bring a touch of classy individualism to an otherwise understated business look.
