Haute Pizza

So you still think pizza is a simple ethnic snack dispensed at neon-lit storefront eateries? Have we got a delicious surprise for you. The fact is, some very classy chefs have been bending their vaunted creative talents to the cause of pizza--devising audacious new toppings for the plebeian tomato-and-cheese pie. In the process, they've altered the nature of this lusty peasant nosh and given it haute dimensions. For instance, at his esteemed Quilted Giraffe restaurant in Manhattan, chef-owner Barry Wine serves a savory wasabi pizza topped with tuna sashimi. Alice Waters, who may have initiated the New Wave pizza school, dishes up a pizza topped with caramelized onions, gorgonzola and chopped rosemary at her legendary Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. Yet another noted chef-entrepreneur, Wolfgang Puck of Spago fame in Los Angeles, lays it on with smoked salmon, golden caviar and crème fraîche.

The current infatuation with fancy pizza is not mere frivolity: It's part of the contemporary trend to lighten up, have fun with food and challenge starchy traditions. Celebrated chefs approach the unadorned pizza crust as an artist might approach a blank canvas; only these Picassos of pizza daub the yeasty dough with daring combinations of flavors, textures and ingredients instead of colors.

Pizza, of course, is an Italian creation. According to legend, the classic mozzarella-tomato pizza was fashioned to honor Queen Margherita on her visit to Naples in 1889. To this day, the basic pie is called a Margherita or a Neapolitan pizza. Regional tastes in pizza, however, are surprisingly varied. The aforementioned Neapolitan is a solid choice in New York, while New Haven is the home of the fresh-clam white pizza; California pizzas demonstrate a nouvelle flair--with broccoli, eggplant and sun-dried-tomato fillings; the fire of jalapeño and ancho chilies warms up pizzas of the Southwest; and pizza in Chicago means only one thing--deep-dish pizza. This generous deep-dish creation--introduced by two Chicagoans, Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo, at their Pizzeria Uno in 1943--has a high rim, something like a piecrust, and takes a lot more topping than the standard pizza.

Pizza mania shows no signs of abating. In fact, pizza seems to be taking over the world and has become commonplace in such far-flung cities as Tokyo, Hong Kong, London, Paris and Auckland. Even Moscow has a red-roofed Pizza Hut.

But all this does not help the domestic chef who aspires to make serious pizza in his or her own kitchen. Is it possible? The answer is definitely affirmative--with a caveat. If you're talking about the standard pies like (continued on page 139)Haute Pizza(continued from page 112) those dispensed at neighborhood pizza parlors, frankly, they are hardly worth the bother. But if you crave something special, a bona fide gourmet experience, go for the homemade, by all means. Think of your pizza as an open-faced sandwich and cover the crust with your favorite tidbits--marinated baby squid, hot chili peppers, prosciutto, whatever you like. Barry Wine does a very nice mashed-potato, foie gras and crisp-bacon pizza at home.

If you fear the crust, not to worry. The step-by-step recipe that follows makes rolling your own a breeze.

Now that you're hot for a gourmet-pizza fix, review the pointers on pizza preparation in the accompanying sidebar, Hot Pizza Tips, then proceed with the recipes.

Buon gusto!

[recipe_title]Basic Pizza Crust[/recipe_title]

(Makes one or two 12-in. crusts or three to four smaller crusts, depending on thickness)

[recipe]1 envelope active dry yeast[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon sugar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup warm water (110° Fahrenheit)[/recipe]

[recipe]3--3-1/2 cups flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1 teaspoon salt[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

Dissolve yeast and sugar in 1/4 cup warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Combine 3 cups flour and salt in large bowl. Stir in remaining water and olive oil. Add yeast mixture and mix well. Transfer dough to well-floured surface and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, until it's smooth and elastic. If dough seems sticky during kneading, add a little more flour. Put dough in large, lightly oiled bowl and turn to coat all surfaces. Cover bowl with towel and let stand in warm place until dough doubles in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Punch dough down, cover bowl and let dough rise for another 30 minutes. Shape dough into ball, place on lightly floured surface and flatten with your hand. Roll or stretch dough into circle of desired size, 1/8 to 1/4 in. thick. Pinch around edge of circle to form rim. (This helps keep ingredients from sliding off.) Top and bake pizza crust as indicated in the recipes that follow.

[recipe_title]Spago Smoked-Salmon-and-Caviar Pizza[/recipe_title]

(Four small pizzas)

[recipe]1 recipe pizza dough[/recipe]

[recipe]3 teaspoons minced chives[/recipe]

[recipe]4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]6 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream[/recipe]

[recipe]3--4 ozs. smoked salmon, sliced paper thin[/recipe]

[recipe]4 heaping tablespoons golden caviar[/recipe]

[recipe]1 heaping teaspoon black caviar[/recipe]

Place pizza stone in oven; preheat to 500° Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. Knead 2 teaspoons minced chives into pizza dough. Roll or stretch dough into 4 8-in. circles. Place pizzas on lightly floured peel (see Hot Pizza Tips) and brush with olive oil to within 1 in. of edge. Slide pizza crusts onto stone and bake 8 to 10 minutes. When golden brown, transfer them from oven to serving plate. (You may have to do this in 2 batches.) Spread each with crème fraîche or sour cream. Arrange slices of salmon over cream. Place spoonful of golden caviar in center of each pizza, then spoon a little black caviar in center of golden caviar. Sprinkle salmon with remaining chives.

(concluded overleaf)

[recipe_title]Quilted Giraffe Wasabi Pizza with Tuna Sashimi[/recipe_title]

(Four small pizzas)

The Japanese ingredients in this recipe are available at Oriental markets or gourmet food shops. Wasabi is Japanese horseradish powder. To use, mix to a paste with water and let stand about 30 minutes.

[recipe]Wasabi mixture (see below)[/recipe]

[recipe]4 unbaked pizza crusts, each 6 to 7 ins. in diameter[/recipe]

[recipe]Corn meal[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds (approximate)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup finely shredded carrot[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup finely shredded daikon (Japanese white radish)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon shin mirin (Japanese sweet sake, used for cooking)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon rice vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 tablespoon soy sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]3/4 lb. very fresh yellow-fin tuna, sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]1/8 in. thick and cut in 2-1/2" x 2" rectangles[/recipe]

Place heavy metal baking sheet in oven; preheat to 450° Fahrenheit. Prepare wasabi mixture, below. Assemble pizzas on peel lightly sprinkled with corn meal. Prick all over with fork. Spread each pizza with thin coat of wasabi mixture. Sprinkle lightly with sesame seeds. Transfer to preheated baking sheet; bake 6 to 7 minutes, until medium brown. Spread about 1/4 cup wasabi mixture on each baked pizza. Overlap 4 tuna slices on one side of each pizza. At last minute, toss carrot and daikon shreds in mixture of shin mirin, vinegar and soy sauce and mound about 1/3 cup mixture opposite tuna and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Wasabi mixture: Beat together 6 ozs. cream cheese, 5 ozs. ricotta cheese, 2 1/2 tablespoons shin mirin, 1 1/2 tablespoons each wasabi paste, rice vinegar, white wine, 1/2 tablespoon fresh lime juice, 1 teaspoon salt.

[recipe_title]Chez Panisse Aromatic Gorgonzola-and-Rosemary Pizza[/recipe_title]

(12-to-14-in. pizza)

[recipe]1--2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1--2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]4 onions, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt and pepper, to taste[/recipe]

[recipe]12-to-14-inch unbaked pizza crust[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. gorgonzola cheese, at room temperature[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon dried)[/recipe]

Place pizza stone in oven; preheat to 450° to 500° Fahrenheit. Heat 1 tablespoon each olive oil and butter in large skillet. Add onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook over very low heat for about 1 hour, until brown and caramelized; add more oil and butter during cooking if necessary. Place pizza crust on well-floured peel. Spread with onions, dot with crumbled gorgonzola and sprinkle with rosemary. Transfer to pizza stone; bake 12 to 15 minutes, until browned and crisp. Remove from oven and sprinkle with freshly ground pepper.

[recipe_title]David's French-Bread Shitake-Mushroom Pizza[/recipe_title]

(Two pizzas)

A terrific new kind of pizza from cookie tycoon David Liederman of David's Cookies, ice cream and now French-bread pizza. The dish is a favorite at Liederman's Chez Louis restaurant in New York.

[recipe]1 crusty French-bread baguette, about 12 ins. long[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon melted butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped[/recipe]

[recipe]12 fresh shitake-mushroom caps, medium size[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup fresh tomato sauce or pizza sauce Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Preheat oven to 450° Fahrenheit. Cut bread in half lengthwise; brush each cut side lightly with olive oil. In bowl, combine remaining olive oil with melted butter, vinegar and garlic. Add mushroom caps and stir to coat. Arrange mushroom caps in single layer in shallow baking pan and bake for 5 minutes; remove from oven. Place bread on baking sheet. Spread each with 1/4 cup tomato sauce and top with row of 6 mushroom caps. Sprinkle each with salt, pepper and parmesan cheese. Bake 10 minutes.

[recipe_title]Great Performances Pissaladière[/recipe_title]

(Two pizzas)

Pissaladière is the French version of pizza. Great Performances is a premiere Manhattan caterer.

[recipe]1 sheet frozen puff pastry (8" x l0"), thawed (see note)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 egg[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon water[/recipe]

[recipe]2--3 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced[/recipe]

[recipe]8 anchovy fillets, slivered[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup pitted black olives, chopped Freshly ground pepper[/recipe]

Preheat oven to 350° Fahrenheit. Cut puff pastry sheet in half lengthwise. Trim 3/4-in. strip off edges of each half. Lay strips on edges to make border of durable thickness. Prick all over with fork. Place pastry sheets on lightly oiled baking sheet. Beat egg with water, and brush all over pastry, including borders. Place tomato slices in row inside borders, slightly overlapping one another. Arrange anchovy slivers on top of tomatoes. Sprinkle with chopped olives and pepper. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, until borders are puffed and brown. Cut into pieces, serve immediately.

Note: Frozen puff pastry is available in supermarkets.

Pizza loves a party! Get some good beer, good wine, good people and mix well. Add a couple of pizzas cut in finger-sized wedges and watch your party take off.

"Barry Wine does a very nice mashed-potato, foie gras and crisp-bacon pizza at home."

Hot Pizza Tips

For a chewy, yeasty, slightly bready crust, you want it on the thick side, 1/4 in. or so. Thick crusts bake a little longer at a lower temperature and accommodate a greater load of topping.

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Thin crusts are crisper, almost crunchy. Roll or stretch them out to about 1/8 in. thick. They bake a shorter time at a higher temperature. Don't overbake, or you'll have a brittle, dried-out pizza.

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Don't worry about symmetry of crust. A free-form pizza can be attractive.

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Moist topping ingredients should be drained well before going on crust. Otherwise, the shell may pick up moisture from the topping.

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All toppings should be able to cook completely in 12 to 15 minutes. If they cannot, precook them before placing on crust (bacon, eggplant, fresh pork, etc.).

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Don't overload the pizza with so many toppings that the crust can't bake through. (Go light with heavy ingredients.)

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For a quick-fix tomato sauce, use a ready-made pizza sauce or a thickish spaghetti sauce, such as the Paul Newman brand.

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Check bottom of pizza before removing from oven to see that your crust is brown and crisp.

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When topping a pizza crust, leave a 1/2-in. border around the edge.

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If you're using a prepackaged pizza crust or mix, check the directions for baking temperature and time, since they may be different from those given in our basic pizza-crust recipe.

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A pizza stone is a round, flat, heavy stoneware baking surface. When preheated in a very hot oven (450° to 500° Fahrenheit), it provides the jolt of intense heat that gives the pizza crust proper crispness. A preheated heavy metal baking sheet or cast-iron griddle can substitute for the pizza stone.

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A peel is a long-handled paddle on which to assemble the pizza so that it can be slid onto the preheated pan in the oven. You can also build the pizza on the back of a baking sheet. Give the peel or sheet a few shakes to make sure the pizza is not stuck before sliding it onto the baking pan.