Two Minutes to Withdrawal

With all due respect to canines, a man's best friend is surely his microwave oven. It sits like a TV set on the counter or is built into the wall. You press a few buttons and, in the time it takes to make a couple of martinis, presto! Cuisine (not just food) happens. No small leap for mankind, this gizmo. The beauty of it all is that you don't need to know a damn thing about cooking to turn out dishes that make it seem as though you've been tinkering in haute technique your entire adult life. But it's not only the nuker's utter simplicity that makes it so appealing, it's the speed. With a microwave, (continued on page 155)Withdrawal(continued from page 101) you don't have to stand in the kitchen wolfing down cold pizza because you're too starved to spend an hour cooking. And you can invite a friend for dinner without spending the day up to your elbows in preparations. Suddenly, a dinner party for six is no big deal to pull off.

Having said all this, we know you're wondering--what's the catch?

There isn't one. If you can arrange food on a plate and slice a zucchini, you can execute all the recipes here in a snap.

And we're not talking about heating up some Dinty Moore, either. These dishes are definitely respectable--marinated strip steak, spicy fillet of salmon, and so on. Still, as you'll see, they're effortless.

Hungry? You can skip ahead to the recipes right now. But since you're here, we thought you might want this crash course in microwaving:

1. Did you ever stop to think about how a traditional electric oven works? For the record, it converts electricity into heat through the use of a resistance coil, and then the dry heat cooks the food by direct or indirect molecular conduction. But you don't need to know or think about any of that to use an electric oven. A microwave oven converts electricity into short radio waves through the use of a magnetron tube, and the waves then heat the food by rapidly moving the liquid molecules in it.

2. Microwaved food is not second best. Most of us got the idea that it was from having one too many experiences with gutless, reheated-in-a-microwave restaurant food. In truth, a microwave oven is simply an appliance like any other. Great things can come out of it and bad things can come out of it. It depends on how you use it.

3. There are three sizes of microwave ovens: small (400 watts), which is meant mostly for reheating and for cooking frozen TV dinners; and medium (500 watts) to large (600 to 750 watts), meant for regular cooking. All of our recipes are intended for large ovens.

4. To cook food in a microwave, you can use any type of container except metal. Glass, pottery, ceramic and some plastics are all fine. (You don't need a special set of microwave containers.) Metal isn't recommended, because it prevents the microwaves from reaching the food directly. Food in metal can be cooked indirectly by reflected waves, but the calculations and restrictions required make it impractical.

5. Microwaves cook by setting liquid molecules in a food in rapid motion. This, in turn, creates friction, heat and steam. Covering a food with any type of nonmetal cover or plastic wrap helps hold the steam and the heat in, so the food cooks better.

6. There can be a lot of probes and sensors on a microwave oven. But all you need to use for these recipes is the cook High (sometimes labeled Cook or High or 100%) button.

7. Like anything else, the more you use a microwave oven, the more comfortable you'll be with it. We suggest sticking to the recipes, however, until you're a microwave master. Using arithmetic in microwaving doesn't always work. Doubling the amount of food, for example, doesn't mean doubling the cooking time.

8. In terms of cleaning up, you'll be happy to learn that microwaved food almost never crusts onto the container it's cooked in--so not only is the cooking fast, the clean-up is a snap.

9. Like every other appliance, the microwave cooks certain foods extremely well and others not so hot. The following are great in the nuker: fresh fish, fresh vegetables, hot cereals, rice and risotto, beans and legumes, cooked fruit, broth and stock. Soups (especially vegetable), chicken, turkey and game, as well as sauces and toasted nuts, aren't bad, either. What you really want to avoid are breads and soufflés.

Our first dinner gets cooked all at once on one plate. Since you even eat on this plate, there's virtually no clean-up, either. Ultimate no-fuss stuff.

Dinner for one, please, James

[recipe_title]Spicy Fillet of Salmon[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Broccoli with Mushrooms and Cashews[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Sour-Dough Rolls[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Chardonnay[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Ice Cream with Hot Fudge[/recipe_title]

You make: spicy fillet of salmon and broccoli with mushrooms and cashews.

You buy: sour-dough rolls, a good Chardonnay, ice cream and hot fudge.

[recipe_title]Spicy fillet of Salmon and Broccoli with Mushrooms and Cashews[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Rinse an 8-oz. salmon fillet under tap water. Pat dry. Sprinkle lightly all over with chili powder. Place on microwave-safe dinner plate and complete following directions: Mix together 1/4 lb. ready-cut (from salad bar) broccoli florets, about 8 slices fresh mushrooms and about 6 cashews and place on other side of plate. Cover plate with plastic wrap. Set microwave on high for 4 minutes. Prick plastic wrap to let out steam, then remove. Toss vegetables with pat of butter; enjoy with wine and sourdough rolls. When it's time for dessert, you may want to warm hot fudge in small bowl in microwave for 1 minute before spooning it over ice cream.[/recipe]

Next, we do an easy dinner for two. The idea here is to make an elegant meal in minutes. With a bottle of wine, some cloth napkins, a candle or two and some good music, you should be all set.

Snap dinner for two

[recipe_title]Ramekins of Fresh Crab Meat[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Marinated Strip Steak[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Baked Potatoes with Crisp Bacon and Herbed Sour-Cream Sauce[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Mixed Greens with Warm Pecan Dressing[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Crusty French Bread[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Cabernet Sauvignon[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Poached Pears in Raspberry Sauce[/recipe]

•

[recipe_title]Sauterne[/recipe_title]

You make: ramekins of fresh crab meat, marinated strip steak, baked potatoes with crisp bacon and herbed sour-cream sauce, mixed greens with warm pecan dressing and poached pears in raspberry sauce.

You buy: crusty French bread, an elegant, ready-to-drink cabernet such as the 1985 Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon and a delicious sauterne in as old a vintage as you can afford. Châteaux Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Rieussec and Suduiraut are all possibilities.

The following is the order of preparation: Marinate the steak, prepare and chill the pear dessert, make the salad and the dressing, ready the sour-cream sauce, cook the potatoes, ready and heat the crab meat and serve and eat. Next, cook the steak (10 to 12 minutes) and remember to reheat the salad dressing just before serving.

[recipe_title]Ramekins of Fresh crab meat[/recipe_title]

[recipe]With fork, gently mix together 1/2 lb. finest-quality cooked crab meat, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 tablespoon mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives and 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley. Season lightly with a little salt and a little white pepper. Divide into two 1/2-cup decorative microwave-safe ramekins or gratin dishes and microwave, uncovered, on high for 1-1/2 minutes. Serve.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Marinated Strip Steak[/recipe_title]

[recipe]To prepare marinade, combine in blender or food processor 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce, 2 tablespoons bourbon, 2 cloves garlic and 1-in. piece peeled fresh gingerroot. Place 1-lb. strip steak in microwave-safe shallow dish. Pour marinade over steak and turn so that it's coated on all sides. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate as long as you can--preferably a few hours.[/recipe]

Without uncovering, microwave steak on high for 10 minutes for rare or 12 minutes for medium rare, turning steak over once midway through cooking. Prick plastic wrap to let steam escape. Allow steak to cool for a minute or two. Transfer to cutting board. Slice on diagonal into 1/4-in.-thick strips and arrange on two plates. Spoon juices in dish over steak on each plate and serve.

[recipe_title]Baked Potatoes with Crisp Bacon and Herbed Sour-Cream Sauce[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Place 2 large (8-oz.) baking potatoes on floor of microwave oven. Microwave on high for 11 minutes. Wrap in foil to keep warm and set aside.[/recipe]

[recipe]To make sauce, place three sheets paper toweling on dinner plate. Place 2 strips bacon on paper towels and cover with another sheet. Microwave on high for 3 minutes. Cool bacon, crumble and add to 1/3 cup sour cream, along with 1 tablespoon finely chopped scallions, 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, 1 finely chopped sun-dried tomato, salt and pepper.[/recipe]

To serve, unwrap potatoes, cut deep gash in each and press sides so they fluff up. Spoon large dollop of sauce onto each.

[recipe_title]Mixed Greens with Warm Pecan Dressing[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Toss together combination of Boston and romaine lettuces (enough for 2 individual salads). Break about 8 pecans into 4 or 5 pieces each. Put on plate and microwave on high for 2-1/2 minutes. Meanwhile, in glass measuring cup, combine 2 tablespoons olive oil with 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, a pinch of salt and a grinding of fresh pepper. Add toasted pecans to dressing. Just before serving, microwave dressing on high for 30 seconds to warm, then toss with greens.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Poached Pears in Raspberry Sauce[/recipe_title]

[recipe]Peel 2 large, firm ripe pears, leaving stems in place. Cut thin slice off bottom of each so that pears will stand up straight on plate when served. Rub each pear with a little lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Place them in microwave-safe dish and cover with plastic wrap. Microwave on high for 5 minutes. Prick wrap to let out steam, then remove. Refrigerate several hours to cool.[/recipe]

[recipe]To make sauce, put 1 package frozen unsweetened raspberries, juice of 1/2 lemon and 2 teaspoons sugar in blender or food processor. Purée until smooth. Refrigerate.[/recipe]

To serve, place pear in center of dessert plate. Spoon raspberry sauce around it.

Finally, we've put together a slick party menu for six that you can serve buffet or sit-down style. Start off with cocktails and then, if you're doing sit-down, move to a white wine with the shrimp (we like the 1986 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc) and a delicious red (such as the 1988 Georges Duboeuf Saint-Amour or the 1983 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale) for the rest of the meal. If you're buffeting it, simply put both of the wines out and let guests help themselves.

The presto party menu

[recipe_title]Shrimps with Mediterranean Tuna Sauce[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Deep-dish Chicken with Mushrooms[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Herbed Rice[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Garlicky Green and Yellow Squash[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Warm Rolls[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Sauvignon Blanc Beaujolais Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Chocolate-Truffle Cake with White-Chocolate Whipped Cream[/recipe_title]

•

[recipe_title]Cognac[/recipe_title]

You make: Mediterranean tuna sauce, deep-dish chicken with mushrooms, herbed rice, garlicky green and yellow squash and white-chocolate whipped cream.

You buy: 1-1/2 lbs. shrimps, assorted dinner rolls, chocolate-truffle cake or another very chocolatey cake, white and red wine and cognac.

The following is the order of preparation: Make tuna sauce and chill. Cook chicken, rice and zucchini in turn, covering each with lid or foil wrap and keeping all warm in 125°-Fahrenheit conventional oven. Eat shrimps; serve main course.

[recipe_title]Shrimps with Mediterranean Tuna Sauce[/recipe_title]

This easy dish does not require any cooking at all. You can assemble it while your microwave is working full tilt on something else.

[recipe]To make sauce, put 1 cup mayonnaise, 6-1/2-oz. can tuna, drained, 2 tablespoons capers, 1/4 cup tightly packed parsley leaves, juice of 1 lemon and 2 cloves garlic in food processor. Purée until smooth, then season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve as dipping sauce with 1-1/2 lbs. cooked, peeled shrimps.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Deep-Dish Chicken with Mushrooms[/recipe_title]

[recipe]In medium-sized bowl, combine 1 finely chopped large onion, 1 finely chopped large green pepper and 2 finely chopped cloves garlic. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 5 minutes.[/recipe]

[recipe]Ask butcher to cut up 3-1/2-lb. chicken into small pieces. Remove skin from each piece. Put chicken in large microwave-safe dish with thicker, meatier pieces toward corners and edges of dish and wings and bony ends near center.[/recipe]

[recipe]Stir 3/4 lb. thickly sliced mushrooms and 2 cups thick tomato sauce into cooked onion mixture and spread evenly over chicken. Cover and microwave on high for 16 minutes.[/recipe]

[recipe]To serve, uncover carefully and arrange chicken on platter. Stir sauce and ladle over chicken.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Herbed Rice[/recipe_title]

[recipe]In large bowl, combine 1-1/2 cups white rice (we like basmati) with 3 cups chicken broth. Cover and microwave on high for 24 minutes. Uncover carefully and stir in 2 tablespoons each of any 2 of the following chopped fresh herbs: parsley, cilantro, tarragon, savory or basil. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter, a few pinches of salt and freshly ground pepper.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]Garlicky Green and Yellow Squash[/recipe_title]

[recipe]In large bowl, mix together 1 tablespoon olive oil and 3 finely chopped cloves garlic. Microwave on high, uncovered, for 1 minute, 15 seconds. To this, add 1 lb. (about 3 to 4 medium-sized) sliced crookneck yellow squashes and 1 lb. (3 to 4 medium-sized) sliced zucchini. Mix well. Cover. Microwave on high for 8 minutes. Uncover and drain. Mix squashes with juice of 1/2 lime, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, salt and freshly ground pepper. Transfer to decorative bowl or platter to serve.[/recipe]

[recipe_title]White-Chocolate Whipped Cream[/recipe_title]

[recipe]With an electric mixer, beat 1 cup heavy cream with 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract until cream is whipped to stiff peaks. Add 2 ozs. grated white chocolate and beat 2 to 3 seconds more. Transfer whipped cream to decorative bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to dollop onto chocolate cake.[/recipe]

As a parting thought, we want you to know that we understand how disconcerting all this effortlessness can be. After all, most good things in life do require some smarts and sweat. You'll just have to blissfully accept the nuker into your life. But don't worry, you'll get used to it.