Bluebeard in Ireland

"The People are wonderful," George Allenson had to agree, there in Kenmare. His wife, Vivian, was 20 years younger than he but almost as tall, with dark hair and decided sharp features, and it placed the least strain on their marriage if he agreed with her assertions. Yet he harbored an inner doubt. If the Irish were so wonderful, why was Ireland such a sad, empty country? Vivian, a full generation removed from him, was an instinctive feminist, and to him, an instinctive male chauvinist, any history of unrelieved victimization seemed suspect. Not that it wasn't astonishing to see the 80-room palaces the British landlords had built for themselves, and touching to see the ruins--stone end walls still standing, thatched roofs collapsed--of the hovels where the Irish had lived, eaten their potatoes and drunk their whiskey, and died. Vivian loved the hovels, inexplicably, since they all looked alike from the outside, and when it was possible to enter a doorless doorway or peak through a sashless window-hole, the inside showed a muddy dirt floor, a clutter of rotting boards that might once have been furniture and a few plastic or aluminum leavings of intruders like themselves.

She could see he was unconvinced. "The way they use the language," she insisted, "and leave little children to run their shops for them."

"Wonderful," he agreed again. He was sitting with his, he hoped, not ridiculously much younger wife in the lounge of their hotel, before a flickering blue fire that was either a gas imitation of a peat fire or the real thing, he wasn't sure. A glass of whiskey, whose one ice cube had melted away, added to Allenson's natural sleepiness. He had driven them around the Dingle Peninsula today in a foggy rain and then south to Kenmare over a narrow mountain road from Killarney, Vivian screaming with anxiety all the way, and it had left him exhausted. After a vacation in Italy two years ago, he had vowed never to rent a foreign car with her again, but he had, in a place with narrower roads and left-handed drive. During the trickiest stretch today, over fabled Moll's Gap, with a Mercedes full of gesturing Germans pushing him from behind, Vivian had turned in her seat and pressed her face against the headrest rather than look, and sobbed and called him a sadistic fiend. Afterward, safely delivered to the hotel parking lot, she complained that she had twisted so violently that her lower back hurt slightly. What he resented most about her attacks of hysteria was how, when she recovered from them, she expected him to have recovered, too. For all her feminism she still claimed the feminine right to meaningless storms of emotion, followed by the automatic sunshine of male forgiveness.

As if sensing the sulky residue of a grudge within him and determined to erase it, she flashed there by the sluggish fire her perfect teeth, teeth whose fluoride-protected whiteness was emphasized by the almost-black red in which she painted her lips. Her lips were long and mobile but thin and sharp, as if--it seemed to him in his drowsy condition by the gassy flickering fire--her eyebrows had been duplicated and sewn together at the ends to make a mouth. "Remember," she said, as if it had not been mere hours ago, "the lady shopkeeper out there beyond Dingle, where I begged you to stop?"

"You insisted I stop," he corrected. She had said that if he didn't admit he was lost, she would jump out of the car and walk back. How could they be lost, he argued, with the sea on their left and hills on their right? But the facts that the sea was obscured by fog and the stony hills vanished upward into rain clouds reinforced her conviction to the point that he slammed on the brakes. As if he might be the one to run away, she had got out of the car with him. The dimly lighted store looked empty, and they had been about to turn away from the door when a shadow materialized within, beyond the lace curtains--the proprietress, emerging from a room where she lived, waiting, rocking perhaps, watching what meager channels of television reached this remoteness. He had been surprised, in southwestern Ireland, by how little television there was to watch, and by the sound of Gaelic being spoken all about him, in shops and pubs, by the young as well as by the old. It was part of his provincialism to be surprised by the provincialism of others; he expected America by now to be everywhere.

This was indeed a store; its shadowy shelves held goods in cans and polyethylene packets, and a cloudy case held candies and newspapers bearing today's date. But it was hard to see it as anything but a stage cleverly set for their entrance and exit, rather than as a real focus for the economic needs of the village around them, which seemed deserted. The proprietress--her hair knotted straight back, her straight figure clad in a dress of nunnish gray--felt to him younger than she looked, like an actress tricked out in bifocals and gray rats. She described the local turnings with a lilting soft urgency, as if in all her years in this unlit store on a cliff above the sea, she had never before been asked to direct a pair of tourists. There was a grave ceremoniousness to the occasion that chastened the fractious Allensons. To pay her for her trouble, they bought a copy of the local newspaper and some bags of candy, which they ate in the car--Licorice Allsorts for him; for her, chocolate-covered malt balls called Maltesers.

They got back into the car enhanced by the encounter, the irritating currents between them momentarily quelled. Yet, even so, for all those sacerdotally careful directions, he must have taken a wrong turning, for they never passed the Gallarus Oratory, which he had wanted to see. It was the Chartres of beehive chapels. In Ireland the sights were mostly stones. The Allensons found themselves driving endlessly upward on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula, needing to traverse the Slieve Mish Mountains to avoid Tralee, and being tailgated by the Germans on Moll's Gap, while Vivian had hysterics and Allenson reflected on the unbridgeable distances between people, even those consecrated to intimacy.

He had had three wives. He had meant Vivian to see him into the grave but unexpected resistances in her were quickening, rather than lulling, his will to live. In his simple and essentially innocent malehood he had married into a swarming host of sexist resentments--men were incompetent (his driving in foreign lands), men were bullies (his occasional desire to share in the planning of their itineraries), men were ridiculous (his desire to see, faute de mieux, old Ireland's lichened gray huts, dolmens, menhirs and ruined abbeys), men were lethal. Two years ago, out of sheer political superstition, she had become furious in Gabriele D'Annunzio's estate above Lake Garda, all because the poet and adventurer had enshrined himself and his 13 loyal followers in matching sarcophagi, lifted up to the sun on pillars. Men were fascists, this had led her to see; she had become absolutely unreasonable concerning poor foppish D'Annunzio, about whom she knew nothing. She proved to be violently allergic to history, and her silver-haired husband loomed to her as history's bearer. So he had, for their next trip abroad, suggested Eire, a land whose history was buried in legend and ignominy. Just its shape on the map, next to Great Britain's spiky upstanding island, suggested the huddled roundness of a docile spouse.

"You insisted," he said, "and then we got lost anyway and saw none of the sights."

Vivian resisted having her bad temper revived. "The whole countryside is the sight," she said, "and the wonderful people. Everybody knows that. And all day, with you jerking that poor little Japanese compact this way and that like a crazy teenaged hood, I couldn't enjoy looking out. If I take my eye off the map for an instant, you get us lost. You're not getting me back into that car tomorrow, I tell you that."

Itching to give the fire a poke, he gave it to her instead. "Darling, I thought we were going to drive south, to Bantry and Skibbereen. Bantry House in the morning and Creagh Gardens in the afternoon, with a quick lunch at Ballydehob." He smiled.

"You're a monster," she said cheerfully. "You really would put me through a whole day of you at the wheel on these awful roads? We're going to walk."

"Walk?"

"George, I talked it over with a man in the office, the assistant manager, while you were putting on a shirt and tie. He couldn't have been sweeter, and said what the tourists do in Kenmare is they take walks. He gave me a map."

"A map?" Another whiskey would sink him to the bottom of the sea. But would that be so bad? This woman was killingly boring, like a schoolteacher from his youth. She had proudly produced a little map, printed by photocopy on green paper, showing a pattern of numbered lines enmeshing the phallic thrust of the Kenmare estuary. "I've come all this way to take a walk?" But there was no arguing. Vivian was so irrational that, because her predecessor wife had been called Claire, she had refused, planning the trip, to include County Clare, where the good cliffs and primitive churches were, and off whose shore part of the Spanish Armada had wrecked.

•

Next morning the devil in him, prompted by the guidebook, could not resist teasing her. "Today's the day," he announced, "to do the Ring of Beara. We can see the Ogham Stone at Ballycrovane, and if there's time, take the cable car to Dursey Island, the only such wonder in this green and pleasant land. The blessed roadway meanders, it says here, through mountainous coastal areas providing panoramic views of both Bantry and Kenmare bays. A famous stone circle there is, and just two miles farther, the ruins of Puxley's mansion. A mere hundred and forty kilometers, the entire ring is. That's eighty-four miles of pleasure, not counting the cable car."

"You must be out of your gourd," Vivian said, using one of those youthful slang expressions that she knew he detested. "I'm not getting back into any car with you at the wheel until we head to Shannon Airport. If then."

Allenson shrugged to hide his hurt. "Well, we could walk downtown to the local circle again. I'm not sure I dug"--tit for tat--"all the nuances the first time."

It had been charming, in a way. They had driven up a little cul-de-sac at the shabbier end of Kenmare, and a small girl in a school jumper had been pushed from a house, while her mother and siblings watched from the (continued on page 172) Bluebeard in Ireland (continued from page 96) window, and shyly asked for the 50p admission. Then through a swinging gate and up a muddy lane the couple had walked, past stacks of roof tiles and a ditch brimming with plastic trash, arriving at a small mowed plateau where 15 mismatched stones in a rough circle held their mute old pattern. He had paced among them, trying to unearth in his atavistic heart the planetary meaning of these pre-Celtic stones. Sacrifice. This must have been, at certain moments of heavenly alignment, a place of sacrifice, he thought, as, in the corner of his eye, Vivian stood at the ring's center like a stranger in too vividly blue a raincoat.

"We're walking," she agreed with him, "but not back to those awful rocks that got you so excited, I'll never know why. It's stupid to keep looking at rocks somebody could have arranged yesterday, for all we know. There are more of these prehistoric beehive huts today than there were a hundred years ago, the nice young man in the office was telling me. He says what people who come to Kenmare do is take long walks."

"Who is this guy, that he's become so fucking big in my life suddenly? Why doesn't he take you for the walk if that's what's on his mind?"

Did she blush? "George, really--he's young enough to be my son." This was an awkward assertion, made in the sweep of the moment. She could be the mother of a 21-year-old if she had been pregnant at 19; but in truth she had never borne a child, and when they were first married and she was in her mid-30s, he had had enough children by other women. Now the possibility had slipped away. He thought of her as racily younger than himself, but she was 40, and since they had surreptitiously courted, in the flattering shadows of Claire's unknowing, Vivian's face had grown angular and incised with lines of chronic vexation. She was old enough to be the mother of an adult, but was not.

The young man in the office--a kind of rabbit hole around the corner from the key rack, in which the Irish staff could be heard buzzing like bees in a hive--was at least 25 and might have been 30, with children of his own. He was slender, black-eyed, milky-skinned and impeccably courteous. Yet his courtesy carried a charge, a lilt, of mischief. "Yes, and walking is the thing in these parts--we're not much for the organized sports that you Americans are used to."

"We passed some golf courses, driving here," Allenson said, not really wanting to argue.

"Would you call golf organized?" the assistant manager said quickly. "Not the way I play it, I fear. As we say here, it's an ungrateful way to take a walk."

"Speaking of walks"--Vivian produced her little green map--"which of these would you recommend for my husband and me?"

With his bright black eyes he looked from one to the other and then settled on looking at her, with a cock to his neatly combed head. "Well, how hardy a fellow is he?"

Dear little wife, Vivian took the question seriously. "Well, when he drives, his reflexes are poor, but other than that he can do most things."

Allenson resented this discussion. "The last time I saw my doctor," he announced, "he told me I had beautiful arteries."

"Ah, I would have guessed that," said the young man, looking him benignly in the face.

"We don't want to start him out on anything too steep," Vivian said, again with an offensive seriousness.

"Currabeg might be your best option then. It's mostly on the level road, with fine views of the Roughty Valley and the bay. Take an umbrella against the mist, along with your fine blue coat, and if he begins to look blue in the face, then you might fancy hailing a passing motorcar to bring his body in."

"Are we going to be walking in traffic?" She sounded alarmed. For all her assertiveness, Vivian had irritating pockets of timidity. Claire, Allenson remembered, drove on a motor scooter all over Bermuda with him, clinging to his midriff trustfully, 20 years ago, and would race with the children on bicycles all over Nantucket. He and his first wife, Jeaneanne, owned a Ford Thunderbird convertible when they lived in Texas and would commonly hit 100 miles an hour on the stretch between Lubbock and Abilene, the top down and the dips in Route 84 full of watery mirages. He remembered how her hair, bleached blonde in Fifties-style streaks, would whip back from her sweaty temples, and how she would hike her skirt up to her waist to give her crotch air, there under the steering wheel. Jeaneanne had been tough, but her exudations had been nectar, until her recklessness and love of speed had carried her out of his life.

The assistant manager appeared to give Vivian's anxiety his solemn consideration; there was, in his second of feigned thought, that ceremonious touch of parody with which the Irish brought music to the most factual transactions. "Oh, I judge in this off-time of year there won't be enough to interfere with your easiness. These are high country roads. You park at the crossroads, as the map shows clearly, and take the rights to bring you back."

Still, Allenson felt their advisor had some politely unspoken reservation about their undertaking. As if also wary, Vivian tried to hold her tongue from criticism while he drove their left-hand-drive rental car, with its mirrors where you didn't expect them and a balky jumble of gears on the floor, out of Kenmare, past a cemetery containing famous holy wells, over a one-lane hump of stone bridge, up between occluding hedgerows into the bare blue hills whose silhouettes, in the view from the Allensons' hotel room, boiled upward like clouds from the mirroring sheen of the lakelike estuary. They met no other cars, so Vivian had less need to tense up than on the ring roads. The map was in her lap. She announced at last, "This must be the crossroads." A modest intersection, with only enough parking space on the dirt shoulder. They parked in the space and locked the car. It was the middle of a morning of watery wan sunshine. A bit of breeze told them they were higher than in Kenmare.

On foot they followed a long straight road, not as long and shimmering as the straightaways in Texas, yet with something of the same sense of mirage. They crossed a stream hidden, but for its gurgle, in greenery. A house being built, or rebuilt, stood back and up from the road, with no sign of life. Land and houses must be cheap. Ireland had been emptying out for ages. Cromwell had reduced the Irish to half a million, but they had stubbornly bred back, only to be decimated by the potato famine two centuries later. Allenson found himself wondering about the Irish who stayed--if they didn't have a softness, an elfin unreality, which had been left behind by the American Irish, with their bloated brick churches, their grim theology, their buttoned-shut pugnacious faces.

At first Vivian athletically strode ahead, hungry for hovels and unspoiled views. She had brought new running shoes on the trip--snow-white, red-chevroned, chunky, with the newest wrinkles of pedal technology. They were not flattering, but then, compared with Jeaneanne's, this wife's ankles were rather thick. Her feet looked silly under the hem of her bright blue raincoat, flickering along the road surface, striped like big birds. Where were the real birds? Ireland didn't seem to have many. Perhaps they had migrated with the people. Famines are hard on birds, but the last one had been long ago.

The hedgerows were thinning, and after the invisible stream, the road had a steady upward trend. He found himself overtaking his young wife, and then slowing his pace to match hers. "You know," she told him, "I really did twist my back in the car yesterday, and these new sneakers aren't all they were advertised. They have so much structure inside, my feet feel bullied. It's as if they keep pushing my hips out of alignment."

"Well," he said, "you could go barefoot." Jeaneanne would have. "Or we could go back to the car. We've gone less than a mile."

"That's all? I wouldn't dream of telling them at the hotel that we couldn't do their walk. This must be the first right turn already, coming up."

The T-crossing was unmarked. He looked at the green map and wished it weren't quite so schematic. "This must be it," he agreed uncertainly.

A smaller road, it continued the upward trend through emptier terrain. Irish emptiness had a quality different from that of Texas emptiness, or that of the Scotch Highlands, where he and Claire had once toured. The desolation here was more intimate. Domes of stone-littered grass formed a high horizon under roiling clouds with leaden blue-black centers. There was little color in anything; he had expected greener grass, bluer sky. The landscape wore the dull, chastened colors of the people in the towns. It was a shy, unscreaming sort of desolation. "I suppose," Allenson said to break the silence of their laborious walking, "all this was once full of farms."

"I haven't seen a single hovel," Vivian said with a sharpness that he blamed on her back.

"Some of these heaps of stones--it's hard to tell if man or God, so to speak, put them there." Jeaneanne had been a liberated Baptist, Claire a practicing Episcopalian. Vivian was from a determinedly unchurched family of ex-Catholic scientists whose treeless Christmases and thankless Thanksgivings Allenson found painful. Strange, he thought as he walked along, he had never had a Jewish wife, though Jewish women had been his best lovers--the warmest, the cleverest. Next time?

"It said in the guidebook that even up in the hills you could see the green places left by the old potato patches, but I haven't seen any," Vivian complained.

Allenson cleared his throat and said, "You can see why Beckett wrote the way he did." He had lost track of how long their forward-plodding silence had stretched; his voice felt rusty. "There's an amazing amount of nothingness in the Irish landscape." On cue, a gap in the clouds sent a silvery light scudding across the tops of the dull hills slowly drawing closer.

"I know this isn't the road," Vivian said. "We haven't seen a sign, a house, a car, anything." She sounded near tears.

"But we've seen sheep," he said with an enthusiasm that was becoming cruel. "Hundreds of them."

It was true. Paler than boulders but no less enigmatic, scattered sheep populated the wide fields that unrolled on both sides of the road. With their rectangular purple pupils, the animals stared in profile at the couple. Sometimes an especially buoyant ram, his chest powdered a startling turquoise or magenta color, dashed among the ewes at the approach of these human intruders. Single strands of barbed wire reinforced the stone walls and rotting fences of an older pastoralism. Only these wires and the pine poles bearing wires overhead testified that 20th century people had been here before them. The land dipped and crested like a vast sluggish ocean; each new rise revealed more sheep, more stones, more road. A cloud with an especially large leaden center darkened this lunar landscape, but by the time Vivian had put up their umbrella, the sprinkle had passed. Allenson looked around for a rainbow, but it eluded his vision, like the leprechauns promised yesterday at Moll's Gap, in the roadside sign Leprechaun Crossing.

"Where is that second right turn?" Vivian asked. "Give me back the map."

"The map tells us nothing," he said. "The way it's drawn, it looks like we're walking around a city block."

"I knew this was the wrong road; I don't know why I let you talk me into it. We've gone miles. My back is killing me. Truly, George. I hate these bossy, clunky running shoes."

"They're the newest thing," he reminded her. "And far from cheap." Trying to recover his streak of kindness, he went on, "The total walk is four and a half miles. Americans have lost all sense of how long a mile is. They think it's a minute of sitting in a car." Or less, if Jeaneanne were driving, her skirt tucked up to expose her thighs.

"Don't be so pedantic," Vivian told him. "I hate men. They grab the map out of your hands and never ask directions and then refuse to admit that they're lost."

"Whom, my dear, would we have asked directions of? We haven't seen a soul. The last soul we saw was your cow-eyed pal at the hotel. I can hear him now, talking to the police. Ah, the American couple,' he'll be saying. 'She a mere colleen and he a grizzly old fella. They were heading for Macgillicuddy's Reeks, wi' scarcely a cup of poteen or a pig's knuckle in their knapsacks.'"

"Not funny," she said in a new on-the-edge voice. Without his noticing it, she had become frantic. There was a silvery light in her eyes, tears. "I can't walk another step," she announced. "I can't and I won't."

"Here," he said, pointing out a convenient large stone in the wall at the side of the road. "Rest a bit."

She sat and repeated, as if proudly, "I will not go another step. I can't, George. I'm in agony." She flipped back her bandanna with a decisive gesture, but the effect was not the same as Jeaneanne's gold-streaked hair whipping back in the convertible. Vivian looked old, worn. Lamed.

"What do you want me to do? Walk back and bring the car?" He meant the offer to be absurd, but she didn't reject it, merely thinned her lips and stared at him angrily, defiantly.

"You've got us lost and won't admit it. I'm not walking another step."

He pictured it. Her body would weaken and die within a week; her skin and bones would be washed by the weather and blend into the earth like the corpse of a stillborn lamb. Only the sheep would witness it. Only the sheep were watching them now, with the sides of their heads. Allenson turned his own head away, gazing up the road, so Vivian wouldn't see the naked mercilessness in his face.

"Darling, look," he said after a moment. "See, way up the road, the way the line of telephone poles turns? I bet that's the second right turn. We're on the map!"

"I don't see anything turning," Vivian said, but in a voice that wanted to be persuaded.

"Just under the silhouette of the second little hill. Follow the road with your eyes." Allenson was feeling abnormally tall, as if his vision of Vivian stuck in the Irish landscape forever had a centrifugal force, spilling him outward, into a new future, toward yet another wife. Still, in a kind of social inertia, he kept pleading with her. "If there's no right turn up there, then you can sit down on a rock and I'll walk back for the car."

"How can you walk back?" she despairingly asked. "It'll take forever."

"I won't walk, I'll run," he promised.

"You'll have a heart attack."

"What do you care? One male killer less in the world. One less splash of testosterone." Death, the thought of somebody's death within the marriage felt exalting in this green-gray landscape emptied by famine and English savagery. British soldiers would break the roof-beams of the starving natives' cottages and then ignite the thatch.

"I care," Vivian said. She sounded subdued. What an effort they are to win, these tiny submissions within the marital entanglement! A constant wrestle. Seated on her stone, she looked prim and hopeful, a wallflower waiting to be asked to dance.

"How's your back?"

"I'll stand and see," she said.

Her figure, he noticed when she stood, had broadened since he first knew her--thicker in the waist and ankles, chunky like her aggravating shoes. And developing a bad back besides. She took a few experimental steps on the narrow macadam road, built, it seemed, for the Allensons alone.

"Let's go," she stoutly said. Then she added, "I'm doing this just to prove you're wrong."

But he was right. The road branched; the thinner piece of it continued straight, over the little hill, and the thicker turned right, with the wooden power poles. Parallel to the rocky crests on the left, with a view of valley on the right, the road went up and down in an animated, diverting way and took them past houses now and then and small plowed areas to vary the stony pastures. "You think those are potato patches?" he asked. He felt shy, wondering how many of his murderous thoughts she had read. His vision of her sitting there, as good as a corpse, kept widening its rings in his mind, like a stone dropped into black water. The momentary ecstasy of a stone briskly applied to her skull, or a piece of flint sharp as a knife to her throat--had he entertained these visions, too, in that biblical wilderness back there on the level?

Now, on the higher, winding road, a car passed them, and then another. It was Sunday morning, and unsmiling country families were driving to mass. Their faces were less friendly than those of the shopkeepers in Kenmare; no waves were offered, or invitations to ride. Once, on a blind curve, the Allensons had to jump to the grassy shoulder to avoid being hit. Vivian seemed quite agile in the pinch.

"How's your poor back holding up?" he asked. "Your sneakers still pushing your hips around?"

"I'm better," she said, "when I don't think about it."

"Oh. Sorry."

He should have let her have a baby. Now it was too late. Still, he wasn't sorry.

The road turned the third right on their map gradually, unmistakably, while several graveled driveways led off into the hills. Although Kenmare Bay gleamed ahead of them, a thin tongue of silver in the smoky distance, the road still tended upward, dipping and turning, ever closer to the rocky crests, which were becoming dramatic. There were no more fences; a ram with a crimson chest skittered down a rock face and across the road, spilling scree with its hooves. In what seemed another nation, so far away did it now appear, a line of minuscule telephone poles marked the straight road where Vivian had said she would not move another step. Overhead, faint whistling signaled a hawk. A pair of hawks, drifting near the highest face of rock, hung motionless in a wind the Allensons could not feel. Their thin hesitant cry felt forgiving, as did Vivian's voice announcing, "Now I have this killing need to pee."

"Go ahead."

"Suppose a car comes?"

"It won't. They're all in church now."

"There's no place to go behind anything," she complained.

"Just squat down beside the road. My goodness, what a fussbudget."

"I'll lose my balance." Young as she was, she was physically timid, and he had noticed on other occasions, on ice or on heights, how precarious her sense of balance was.

"No you won't. Here. Give me your hand and prop yourself against my leg. Just don't pee on my shoe."

"Or on my own," she said, letting herself be lowered into a squatting position.

"It might teach them a lesson," he said. "It might soften them up."

"Don't make me laugh. I'll get urinary impotence." A concept of Nabokov's, out of Pale Fire, that they both had admired in the courting days when they were sharing books. She managed to let go. In Ireland's great silence of abandonment, the sheepish splashing sound seemed loud, almost to echo. Allenson looked up to see if the hawks were watching. Hawks could read a newspaper, he had once read, from the height of a mile. But what would they make of it? The headlines, the halftones? Who could tell what a hawk saw? Or a sheep? Only what they selfishly needed to see, he suspected. A tuft of edible grass, or the twitch of a vole scurrying for cover.

Vivian stood, pulling up her underpants and pantyhose, and the couple moved on, not unpleasantly numbed by the miles that had passed beneath their feet. They reached the road's highest point and saw far below, as small as an orange star, their Eurodollar Toyota compact, parked at a tilt on the shoulder of their first crossroads. As they descended to it, Vivian asked, "Would Jeaneanne have enjoyed Ireland?"

What an effort it seemed, to cast his mind so far back. "Jeaneanne," he answered, "enjoyed everything, for the first seven minutes. Then she got bored. What made you think of Jeaneanne?"

"You. Your face, when we started out, had its Jeaneanne look. Which is different from its Claire look. Your Claire look is sort of woebegone. Your Jeaneanne look is fierce."

"Darling," he told her. "You're fantasizing."

"Jeaneanne and you were so young," she pursued. "At the age I was just entering graduate school, you and she were married with a child."

"We had that Fifties greed. We thought we could have it all," he said rather absently, trying to agree. His own feet in their use-softened cordovans were beginning to protest; walking downhill, surprisingly, was the most jarring.

"You still are. You haven't asked me if I like Ireland. The shy sort of nothingness of it."

"Do you?" he asked her.

"I do."

They were back where they had started.

"'Which of these would you recommend?' said Vivian. 'We don't want to start him out on anything too steep.'"