Playboy's Spring & Summer Fashion Forecast

What to wear, how to wear it--get the big picture. Plus some key advice from designer joseph Abboud

As often as we deny the adage that clothes make the man, the fact remains: A smart outfit creates a strong first impression. When you walk into a room, it's the well-dressed guy who stands out in the crowd. But being smartly tailored doesn't mean you should trade in classic styles for trendiness. Changes in men's fashion happen gradually, so the wise move is to build a basic wardrobe over time and update it seasonally as needed. This spring and summer there are several important looks to consider, as pictured on these pages. Our fashion coverage includes everything from the latest suit styles to sports jackets and the trousers and accessories that go with them. We've included tips from designer Joseph Abboud on how to wear one of the season's hottest fabrics, linen, and we celebrate the return of an old friend, the classic white shirt. In short, the menswear of spring and summer 1993 offers head-totoe options to suit your tastes and lifestyle. Here are the details. Suits: Styles are less extreme than they have been in seasons past. The dark-on-dark gangster look, for example, has been softened. Tonal dressing is still important, but colors are lighter and more natural. In terms of cut, the suit silhouette is narrower, with softer shoulder pads, longer jackets (some designers have added as much as two inches to the length) and tapered pants. Lapels are holding steady at about three and a half inches wide. And there's a perceptible ease to the overall look, which makes the suits appear more comfortable. The most up-to-the-minute style--the three-button single-breasted model--features a higher button stance. Wear the coat buttoned up, or with either the bottom button or the top one undone. (We suggest the last if you're wearing the style for the first time--it's a comfortable way to adjust to the three-button stance.) If you prefer a double-breasted suit, look for styles with four or six buttons. Otherwise, go with one of the updated three-piece suits. Unlike the stuffy models of old, the latest looks are loose and generously cut, with vest stances that mirror those of the jackets. Regardless of suit cut, trousers should be single- or double-pleated or flat in front. Cuffs add a sharp, tailored look to each of these styles. Just be sure they measure between one and one and a half inches wide. When it comes to color, think blue, whether it's a classic shade of navy, such as the one Hugo Boss uses in the suit pictured on the opposite page, or a bright, clear blue. Gray, a good second choice, is showing up with a muted, smoky-blue cast. And creams, ranging from ivory to oatmeal, are perfect colors to wear on those steamy summer afternoons. Lightweight fabrics such as crepe and tropical wool also help compensate for rising temperatures. Although the drape of these fabrics is far more flattering than it has been in the past, the real advantages are their longevity (you should be able to wear them at least ten months of the year) and their ability to travel without getting too wrinkled. Textured and patterned fabrics contribute to this neat look and are as important a quality as color. Shirts: Underscoring spring's polished look is the renewed interest in white shirts. This year's version, however, is anything but basic. White-on-white tones, textures, pocket detailing and French cuffs are only a few ways designers and manufacturers are updating this classic style. As a result, dress shirts are more refined and elegant. While slightly more casual, blue shirts (an ode to chambray and denim) are hot, and they look best when worn tonally with the new blue suits or as a color accent to neutral ones. A white linen shirt would also be a wise buy, but keep in mind that it, too, is considered more laid-back. Unfortunately, after only a few seasons, dark shirts are fading--they appear too hard-edged for today's softer styles. And interestingly, the shirt pocket has become a focal point, with larger flap detailing and besom treatments. If you opt for a shirt with French cuffs, choose one-of-a-kind antique cuff links or contemporary graphic shapes, such as the donut-type ones by Robert Lee Morris pictured on the opposite page. Shirt cuts are generous, with collars that are either pointed (pictured opposite page, upper right) or have a modified spread (opposite page, center). For something contemporary, check out a blind buttondown shirt, in which snaps are on the underside. Traditionally European in style, the blind buttondown is featured in the collections of Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan and Hugo Boss, among other top designers. A casual alternative is the banded-collar (or peasant) shirt. The last time this style was popular, men simply took a pair of scissors to their dress shirts to achieve the collarless look. Now the style has been given the designer touch and is showing up under suits, sports jackets, vests and on its own. Wear it buttoned up all the way or leave the top button undone. Linen: Since this fabric is important this season, we've included comments on the subject from designer Joseph Abboud. No, we're not talking about the rumpled-linen looks of the past. The new linen suits and sports jackets are made with blends of linen and other fabrics such as viscose, cotton and rayon. These blends, along with new mill and finishing technologies, create a silklike material that is less prone to wrinkle. To camouflage creases even better, many of the top menswear designers, including Abboud, are using patterned linens, such as the plaid pictured on the opposite page. Those of you who've worn a linen suit know that comfort is one of its attributes. Versatility is another, particularly for guys who need to stretch their fashion dollar. Dress up a linen suit with a shirt and tie or go casual with a T-shirt and sneakers. There are numerous options. What's more, unlike suits made of other fabrics, you can break up a linen one, wearing the jacket on its own or the slacks as an alternative to khaki pants. In all cases, though, your best bet is to go with a tonal look--that is, a light-colored cotton or linen shirt with a similarly light suit. For something relaxed yet dressy, try pairing a linen suit with a finely knit polo shirt or a one-ply cashmere sweater of the same shade. Finally, contrary to popular opinion, linen requires about as much care as cotton. You don't have to dry-clean your linen suit each time you wear it. Just hang it up, give it some room and let it air out. And yes, you can wear it to the office. As Abboud says, "Men create their own self-contained barriers. There's nothing more beautiful than a navy linen suit. It looks fresh and clean--and professional." Sports jackets: Hesitating to invest in an updated three-button single-breasted suit? Then consider trying the style in sports jacket form. As you can see on the following two pages, the sports jacket is probably the most versatile item in any man's wardrobe. When worn traditionally with a shirt and tie, it's perfect for the office; when paired with a banded-collar shirt and vest or a knit polo shirt, it can take on a contemporary look. If you prefer a classic cut, a one- or two-button single-breasted sports jacket is always a safe bet, as is a double-breasted navy blue blazer, which looks best on taller men. Choose colors and fabrics that are similar to those of the latest suits. Blue, for example, is one of the top hues, along with khaki and brown. There's also a wide selection of linen sports jackets (a few of our favorites by Canali USA, Michael Kors and Hugo Boss are shown here) as well as jackets made of lightweight tropical wools and crepes. Again, cuts are drapey, longer in length and feature notched or peaked lapels that measure about three and a half inches at the widest point. A bit of advice on buying sports-jacket ensembles: If you're uncomfortable matching separates, check out a split suit--that is, a suit in which the jacket and trousers are sold individually. Several designers, including Michael Kors and Calvin Klein, offer split suits. Aside from being color and pattern coordinated, they're ideal for guys whose jacket and pants sizes don't match. Economically, they're a great way to get more mileage out of your wardrobe. As with the linen suit, the split suit is a relaxed style designed so that the jacket and pants can be mixed and matched with other items. Vests: The highly versatile vest is another fashion trend that we advocate following this season. The key is to think subtle. Prints and patterns have toned down for spring and summer, and solid colors are equally subdued. When paired with a suit or sports coat as we've illustrated, a vest should have a relaxed fit and a button stance similar to that of the jacket. Button it up, leaving only the bottom button undone, and if it has an adjustment strap, leave it loose and comfortable. That also holds true when you're wearing a vest as a casual accent. With a T-shirt, for example, you can wear the vest open or closed, but it shouldn't be snug. In fact, about the only time you'll want to wear it fitted is when you're wearing nothing underneath. Several designers have shown their vests this way. Consider it a sexy late-night look for the adventuresome and physically fit. Accessories: The season's best-looking ties are either textured with small geometric shapes that show a lot of ground color or have rep stripes with lines that are less rigid and appear to blend together. Traditional shades, such as green, navy and red, have been replaced by watercolors and unexpected combinations such as pink and olive green. Suspenders are still in the picture but are following ties in terms of subtlety and softer colors. A word to the unwise: Don't wear suspenders and a belt. One or the other is the way to go. Another fashion rule of thumb is to select brown and rust-colored accessories rather than black when wearing navy or gray. This applies to belts (the top look is thin and braided, with a brass buckle and a pebble or suede grain), to shoes (match cap-toe or wing-tip lace-up shoes with suits, and lower-vamped slip-ons with sports jackets and other casual attire) and to watches (an elegant chronograph watch with a brown leather band is a smart choice). With the return of the French-cuffed dress shirt, cuff links are another important accessory. Again, subtlety is important. Cuff links should be average sized and not draw too much attention to the wrist. Stay away from stones and instead choose something with an antique look or a geometric shape in matte gold. Finally, the best way to narrow the choices in accessories is to follow your instincts. If you think a tie or cuff link is too loud, weird or just not you, you're probably right. Don't buy it.

Joseph Abboud: All About Linen

If you buy one new suit or sports jacket this season, let it be made of linen. A longtime favorite of European businessmen, this warm-weather fabric is making its mark Stateside thanks to new construction techniques that make it more polished-looking than the linens of the past. Since many American men feel they can't carry off the look, we went to Joseph Abboud, one of the top European designers, for some tips.

Playboy: What makes linen more wearable today than in the past?

Abboud: Technology has made the fabric user-friendly. It's now blended with silk, cotton and viscose or, in its pure form, has a washed finish. Either way, it's more drapey. The lines are rounder, not hard-edged like knife blades. You get a more supple roll and the comfort level is great.

Playboy: What do you say to those men who consider linen unkempt?

Abboud: Both the language and the perception of fashion are changing. Whereas we once said things were sloppy, the correct term now is relaxed. There's a difference. The stigma of the wrinkle is changing. It's being reinterpreted for the Nineties. We're getting away from the mindset, Oh, I wore my linen suit today, now I have to send it to the cleaner. With the new linens, the look appears to be more molded to your body. It moves with you while retaining a comfortable, easy drape.

Playboy: But is the relaxed-style suit appropriate to wear to the office?

Abboud: Absolutely. If a man is wearing a shirt and tie, there's no reason he can't wear a linen suit to work. In fact, it's my opinion that there's nothing more handsome than a navy linen suit.

Playboy: What accessories do you recommend wearing with linen?

Abboud: Bringing linen into your work wardrobe means that you can't get too funky with accessories. Take footwear, for example. Sandals or espadrilles won't work. But I love the look of a linen suit paired with classic English cap-toe or wing-tip shoes. A soft sneaker-type shoe is great, too, if you're wearing the fabric as sportswear. Beyond that, I believe in harmony. I don't want to see a white suit with a red tie. Rather, a beautiful, subtle blend of colors is preferred, such as a natural-colored suit with a soft blue shirt and a quiet tie with a hand-painted look.

Playboy: Can a linen shirt and a linen suit be worn together?

Abboud: The nice thing about linen suits and sports jackets is that they look great with everything from classic cotton dress shirts to denim shirts to T-shirts. So yes, it is appropriate to combine linens.

Playboy: Why do you think the fabric has become so popular?

Abboud: It's part of our being less uptight. Formerly, if you wore a double-breasted suit, you couldn't sit down. It was just for posing. I think men have learned to take what they love about their jeans and apply it to their dress clothes. Linen does just that.