Playboy's Fall and Winter Fashion Forecast

After Losing more than a few customers to thrift shops, menswear designers have finally seen the light. No, they haven't lowered their prices. But they have introduced suits, sports coats and other fall offerings with the turn-of-the-century vintage features we like. Jackets and vests, for example, fit comfortably and are buttoned high on the chest. Shirts are soft and ample rather than stiff and starched. And fabrics feature the antique undertones and textures of the past. So what's our take on this retro trend? We think it's the best of both worlds: You get the great looks of old with the benefits of high-quality modern construction. It also broadens your options, giving you both traditional and contemporary styles to choose from. And it enhances the versatility of your wardrobe. Here are the details.

Suits: When shopping for suits, invest as much as you comfortably can in quality--even if it means buying just one new style. You can expect a well-made fall-weight suit to last for years with proper care. And since some of the latest models are versatile, they can be worn from nine to five and then out on the town. We've dubbed this new relaxed style the seven-day suit. Does the suit you're considering qualify? Ask yourself these questions: Can I wear it to work on Monday with a shirt and tie, to dinner on Friday night with a turtleneck, and then to a museum on Saturday afternoon with a banded-collar shirt? If you answered yes to all of the above, then you've hit the mark.

Definitely on target for fall is the three-button single-breasted style. We like the jacket buttoned all the way up, but you can also leave either the top or the bottom button undone. For a little more daring, check out a four-button single-breasted suit. (There's one by Calvin Klein on page 124.) Both three- and four-button models underscore the trend toward Edwardian higher-button stances and look sharp when worn with a similarly stanced vest.

Do you prefer double-breasted suits? Try a six-button two-to-button model such as the ones pictured opposite and on page 122. This traditionally British style looks best when worn with the bottom button left undone. It appears more relaxed and results in a flatter chest. The six-button one-to-button double-breasted suits are drapey and distinctly Italian in feel. To get more mileage from a three-piecer, alternate wearing the suit with and without the vest. You can pair the vest with a sports coat or something more casual on the weekend. All of the season's top suit styles share some common threads, so to speak. Cuts are lean, with soft shoulders and a lightly fitted torso. This slimmer tailoring offers a natural silhouette and makes these jackets appear longer and their lapels wider--even though both measurements remain unchanged.

Vents, another important detail, are back after several years' absence. These add comfort to leaner cuts while accentuating the retro feel of higher-button stances.

Colors and fabrics have the same effect. For fall, colors remain dark in shades of navy, gray, brown and black but are softened through the use of undertones and texture. A black suit, for example, may feature scattered flecks. A charcoal-colored one may have a subtle pattern (such as a soft glen plaid) or a texture that's noticeable only when it catches the light. Fabrics--including drapey wool crepes and twills, and the new itch-proof tweeds and plaids--are comfortable and light enough to wear ten months of the year. And they, too, reflect the season's vintage flair.

A word on pants: Although suits are relaxed enough to be worn with creaseless trousers, we prefer the more classic look. That means pants with one or two pleats, a soft crease and a break at the ankle. Pleated pants with fuller cuts also work well with the season's lean jackets, as do the revitalized plain-front styles. And cuffs that measure about one-and-a-half inches wide are always a handsome accent. Note: Designers may be showing new ankle-baring short pants, but we think it takes a pretty cool guy to wear them and not look like he's anticipating a flash flood.

Dress shirts: The old equation still applies: Every suit should have four shirts. Gangster-style dark-toned looks prevailed over the past few years, but this season's suits are being paired primarily with soft (not crisp) white or cream shirts. Look for comfortably ample fits, long-point collars and accents such as textured fabrics or French cuffs.

If you already own a drawerful of white shirts, consider adding a shadow-plaid style to your collection. Otherwise, you can still go with a dark shirt. It's not too late for dark-on-dark combinations, according to designer Donna Karan, who has paired almost all her new suits with color-compatible shirts.

Ties: If every suit gets four shirts, then every shirt commands two ties. The latest tie colors have the washed, faded quality characteristic of antique silk. Prints are subdued and include small geometrics and subtly toned reps. Silk knits are also a smart choice. In all cases, tie widths remain the same at three and a half inches, or about equal to the widest point of the suit jacket's lapels.

Sports jackets: With the move toward retro menswear, now is the time to buy a tweed, herringbone or antique-plaid sports jacket (no elbow patches, please). You can also choose among casual pinstripe models or pale neutral ones. Regardless of fabric, though, we recommend that you go with a three-button single-breasted jacket that has open patch pockets and a center or side vents. Both versatile and up-to-the-minute, the three-button sports jacket has made its fashion mark and will be on the scene for seasons to come.

What do you wear with it? Try a cotton rib or wool-knit henley shirt, a knit polo or one of the newer polos with a zip front. Then go with a pair of soft, creaseless pants, such as the wool herringbone ones by Joseph Abboud pictured on page 123.

The key is to think tonal, not solid, and to opt for fabrics that coordinate, not match. We put this rule of thumb to work on page 122 by teaming Nick Hilton's herringbone tweed jacket with a lamb's-wool sweater and corduroy pants--all in shades of taupe, blue and brown. Check it out.

Vests: Vests are coming into their own. In fact, there's such a wide variety these days, it's hard to go wrong when choosing a style. Our hands-down favorite is a lightweight textured wool vest in a traditional tweed. (An example by Vestimenta is pictured opposite.) There are also some sharp high-stance models with small lapels. Whichever look you choose, make sure the vest fits comfortably and lies flat when buttoned.

Accessories: Vintage accessories underscore the gentlemanly feel of the season. Tops on our list are antique watches, cuff links and key chains, retro scarves with silk fringe, and oval- or oblong-shaped eyeglasses with tortoise or wire frames.

Outerwear: Traditional is the way to go with winter coats this season. Lengths should be longer, ending below the calf. Colors should be classic (i.e., camel, navy or black). Both single- and double-breasted styles are flattering on any physique, but belts draw attention to the waistline, so you should try on a few models before you buy one. One look we recommend is called the balmacaan. With roomier sleeves and a cut that's fuller overall, it's perfect over sweaters and other bulky cold-weather styles.

Where & How to Buy on page 171.