Winter

Ah, winter. Hearken to the whoosh of skis and the sounds of a cracking fire. Life in the snowy resorts has probably never been more exciting, thanks to the big bucks plugged in by the industry and a commitment to coddling and luxury. There are fabulous opened-up bowls to explore and wild new slopes for snowboard acrobatics. New comfortable gondolas and high-speed quad can whisk you to the top in minutes. If you want a chill thrill of a different sort, lace up a pair of clap skates (the kind that world-class racers wear) and make like Hans Brinker on your favorite frozen river or ice rink. (The U.S. Olympic speed-skating team trains at Milwaukee's Petit National Ice Center, where mere mortals can test their skills too.) Or float through the solitude of a sleeping forest on a pair of snowshoes that are nothing like those worn by Nanook of the North. Indoor pleasures also abound, and we've assembled a list of cozy romantic hideouts where the nights are long, the tubs are hot and the drinks would make old man winter smile. It feels like snow is in the air. Bring it on!

Hot Tip Got $50 burning a hole in the pocket of your ski pants? The Out of Bounds bar at the Keystone Resort in Keystone, Colorado serves a drink that includes Remy Martin Louis XIII cognac and Grand Marnier 150th Anniversary liqueur.

Burning Desire Flame is the name of the snow job's fame. Moguls Bar in Whitefish, Montana layers equal parts amaretto and Baileys Irish Cream in a large shot glass, then tops it with a float of Bacardi 151-proof rum, which you light.

Baby, it's Cold Outside

Here's where to heat up the night after a cold day on the slopes:

Stein Eriksen Lodge: Let the valet tune your skis while you head for the whirlpool. This posh property at Deer Valley Ski Resort in Utah's powdery Wasatch Range has a great nightlife, plus wood-beamed suites with a fireplace in the master bedroom.

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Top-notch at Stowe Resort and Spa: Curl up in front of the fire or unwind in a private sauna in one of 17 townhouses at the base of Vermont's Mount Mansfield, just three miles from Stowe. There's a coed sauna and a waterfall whirlpool too.

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Irwin Lodge: Accessible only by Sno-Cat, rustic and remote Irwin Lodge in the Gunnison National Forest about 12 miles from Crested Butte, Colorado is for those who like their hot-tub action alfresco.

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Strawberry Park Hot Springs: Reserve the native-stone private pool at this natural hot spring, situated seven miles from Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Plan to stay in one of the rustic "camping" cabins or in the cozy renovated 1890s railroad caboose.

Things old man winter doesn't want you to know

(1) Garmin's new GPS II Plus global positioning satellite receiver (pictured here, about $385) locks on a signal even in dense tree cover. The screen rotates 90 degrees so the unit can be read horizontally or vertically, and it can be mounted in a car or ATV (with optional brackets). No more getting lost while cross-country skiing or backcountry trailbreaking on a snowmobile.

(2) Winter is a great time to learn to fly. Cold air limits turbulence and enhances aircraft performance.

(3) Dry ski or snowboard boot liners with paper toweling each evening and you'll have warmer feet the next day.

(4) Deep-channel, virgin-rubber Weathertech floor mats hold up to 1.5 quarts of slush and salt that can play havoc with your auto carpet. Order a set from MacNeil Automotive Products at 800-441-6287 for about $45.

(5) The combination of thin mountain air and reflective snow can produce a nasty sunburn. Slather on plenty of sunscreen (SPF 30 minimum) and lip protection. And, unless you're wearing a neon ski suit, forget the neon zinc oxide. Sunscreens with titanium dioxide and a new colorless form of zinc oxide deliver protection without the war-paint look.

(6) Use a moisturizer, such as Clinique M lotion, to soothe a wind-burned face. Also remember that higher altitudes mean thinner air and less atmosphere protection. Play it safe and apply plenty of sunblock before you head for the slopes.

(7) To clear fogged car windows fast, set the air conditioner to blow through the defrost vents. Use paper towels rather than your gloves to wipe off any of the excess moisture.

(8) The Bridgestone Winter Driving School in Steamboat Springs, Colorado trains the pros. Sessions cost $115 to $975. Call 800-WHY-SKID.

(9) Wiping the inner lens of fogged ski goggles with paper destroys the chemical coating. Dry your lenses in the sun or use a special antifog cloth. On powder days, carry a pair of spare goggles as a backup.

(10) Premium snow tires, such as the Bridgestone Blizzak and Michelin Alpin, deliver up to 40 percent better traction than the best all-season tires.

(11) Cotton socks and underwear hold moisture next to your skin. Wear wicking wool or synthetic fiber instead.