Grillin' & Chillin'

New Year's Eve is a decadent night," says chef Bobby Flay. "New Year's Day should be decadent too." New Year's Day requires a celebration. The thing is, nobody is in shape to put one together. We're a cultural revolution away from the time when you tried to ignore your headache long enough to choke down Grandma's glazed ham. Thankfully, chef Flay has a solution. Every January 1 he hosts a Martha Stewart-free party that we've been dying to crash for years. Designed as a brunch, it moves lazily through the afternoon and early evening. Flay serves extravagant treats that require little more than the ability to use an ATM. He even likes to assemble the menu with leftovers from the night before. Of course, he has three restaurants from which to scrounge ingredients for his brunch. He's executive chef and co-owner of New York's Mesa Grill and, together with partner Laurence Kretchmer, also heads up the restaurants Mesa City and Bolo. The Zagat Survey has included Mesa Grill on its list of New York's top 20 restaurants since the place opened in 1991.

"I fold foie gras and truffles into eggs. Tuna tartare is quick and easy, and smoked salmon works the night before and the day after," says Flay. "Oysters are a New Year's classic. They are incredibly festive. You must serve oysters--they are such a sexy food. I make sure to order extra caviar for the eve; it's great the next morning. I serve steak at room temperature--again, it can be a leftover. Keep it simple--there's not enough time to prepare something elaborate, and you don't want to slow down the party by slaving in the kitchen. I also choose things that will absorb booze. New Year's Day is really about damage control. I like to serve the kind of food that helps you get through."

Bite that dog: "Drinks are important--they keep things going. Cranberry martinis are great for fall and winter. Blood-orange juice mimosas are another fine riff. They're sweet but tart and look cool, Bloody (continued on page 156) Grillin' Chillin' (continued from page 80) marys should be spicy. Use plenty of horseradish and try a jalapeño or two."

Flay suggests a gathering of about eight people. "Do a buffet, which I like to call tables of food. 'Buffet' sounds tacky. You don't want to force your friends to sit at a table. It's the beginning of the year and an end to intense holiday partying. The trick is to keep it going for one more day. You want to create a casual, lazy atmosphere."

Spread The New York Times around for those who want some solitude. Listen to music for a while, then turn on the TV. Some people will watch football and eat a little; other people will be on the terrace smoking. Remember--it's not a mixer. What you want is some time to regroup. Give your friends an opportunity to find their niche. "The host needs to facilitate things and take care of his guests' needs," says Flay. "Have a stack of magazines and packs of cigarettes handy." Anything else? "Oh yes--make sure there's lots of coffee. And make it strong."

Don't let Flay's recipes intimidate you; use them for inspiration. The basic menu is simple. You can as easily shuck a few fresh oysters, open a tin of caviar, put out a platter of smoked salmon or cold roast beef and scramble a few eggs.

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Asian tuna tartare on taro chips with miso glaze (serves 20)

Tartare:

1 1/2 pounds fresh tuna, cut into

1/4-inch dice

1/2 cup finely chopped scallions

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 jalapeño, seeds removed, finely chopped

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon rice-wine vinegar

1/4 cup cilantro, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper Combine ingredients in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour.

Taro chips:

3 cups peanut oil

1 medium taro root, thinly sliced Heat peanut oil in a large saucepan to 325 degrees. Fry taro slices in several batches, stirring frequently with a slotted spoon until chips are lightly golden. Drain on paper towels.

Miso glaze:

1/4 cup miso paste

1/4 cup hot water

1 tablespoon honey

Mix ingredients in a small bowl until smooth. Brush each taro chip with miso glaze. Spoon a tablespoon of tartare onto each chip, arrange on a platter and drizzle with more glaze.

Blue Cornmeal Pancakes With Smoked Salmon. Crème Fraìche and Salmon Caviar (Serves 20)

1/2 cup blue cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons honey

2 large eggs, beaten

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

20 paper-thin slices smoked salmon

1/2 cup crème fraîche

1/3 cup salmon caviar

(1) In a bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt and honey. In another bowl, combine eggs, milk and melted butter; add dry ingredients and mix well.

(2) Heat a griddle or cast-iron pan over high heat and drop batter by spoonfuls to make 20 2-inch pancakes. Cook pancakes until brown on both sides. Set aside, stacked and covered with foil.

To assemble, place a slice of salmon on each pancake. Garnish with crème fraîche and caviar.

Cornmeal-Coated Oysters with Green Curry Sauce and Beluga Caviar (Serves 20)

Green curry sauce:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped ginger

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped onion

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic

1 cup white wine

1 1/2 cups coconut milk

2 tablespoons green curry paste

1 cup fish stock

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup fresh spinach leaves, washed and stems removed

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

(1) In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and sweat ginger, onion and garlic for 3 minutes. Raise heat to high, add wine, bring to a boil and reduce until 2 tablespoons of liquid remain. Add coconut milk and curry paste and boil until mixture is reduced by half. Add stock and reduce by three fourths. Add cream and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes.

(2) Combine the sauce and spinach in a blender and blend for 30 seconds. Strain the sauce, add the sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cornmeal-crusted oysters:

20 oysters

2 cups fine yellow cornmeal

1 tablespoon ancho chili powder

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper Kosher salt

Blue and yellow cornmeal

1 cup olive oil

2 ounces beluga caviar

(1) Shuck oysters, reserving best 20 shell halves.

(2) Mix cornmeal, ancho powder, curry powder, salt and pepper. Spread kosher salt and blue and yellow cornmeal decoratively on a platter. Place oyster shells on the platter, held steady by salt and cornmeal.

(3) Pour olive oil into a small sauté pan over medium heat. Coat 1 oyster at a time in cornmeal mixture and sauté for about 45 seconds on each side.

Place 1 cooked oyster in each shell, drizzle with curry sauce and top with 1/2 teaspoon of caviar. Serve immediately.

Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish-Honey Mustard (Serves 8)

Tenderloin:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 pounds beef tenderloin (preferably cut from filet mignon section)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat olive oil and butter in an ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Season beef with salt and pepper. Sear meat on all sides until golden brown. Place in oven and cook until meat reaches an internal temperature of 125 degrees on a meat thermometer, 10 to 15 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from oven and let sit 10 minutes before slicing.

Horseradish-honey mustard:

1 cup Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, drained

1 tablespoon honey

Combine ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

Arrange beef on a platter with mustard sauce on the side.

Roasted Vegetables with Wild Mushrooms and Arugula (Serves 8)

2 zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 baby eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 carrots, pared and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 red onions, cut into 1-inch cubes (concluded on page 196) Grillin' Chillin'(continued from page 156)

1 head garlic, cloves separated and skins removed

2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms (portobello, chanterelle, oyster, shiitake, lobster)

1/2 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh thyme, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 pounds arugula, washed Parmigiano reggiano, finely shaved Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place vegetables, garlic and mushrooms in a large roasting pan and toss with olive oil and thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast for 45 minutes, or until vegetables are cooked through.

To serve, arrange arugula on a large platter and top with roasted vegetables, mushrooms and parmigiano.

Scrambled Eggs with Foie Gras and Black Truffle on Toast Points (Serves 8)

4 ounces fresh foie gras, cut into 1/4-inch cubes

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 sticks unsalted butter

16 large eggs, beaten lightly

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives

8 slices pain de mie or quality white bread, crusts removed, sliced in half on the diagonal

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted 1 small black truffle

(1) Place a medium sauté pan over high heat until almost smoking. Season foie gras with salt and pepper to taste. Sauté the pieces for 30 seconds. Remove and drain on paper towels. Set aside.

(2) Heat 2 sticks butter in a large sauté pan until very hot. Pour eggs into the pan all at once and stir with a wooden spoon. Cook eggs quickly and do not overcook. Remove pan from heat and fold in foie gras and chives.

(3) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush bread slices on both sides with melted butter. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, or until crisp and golden but not brown.

To serve, place 2 toast points on each plate. Spoon eggs over toast and top with finely shaved black truffle.

Roasted Pears with Chocolate Sauce and Toasted Pecans (Serves 8)

Roasted pears:

5 pears (cut in half, cores removed, cut in half again)

2 tablespoons canola oil

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Brush pear quarters with oil and place, cut side up, in a large baking pan. Roast until just soft, 20 to 25 minutes.

Chocolate sauce:

2 cups water

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder

I teaspoon vanilla extract

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring water and sugar to a boil for 1 minute; whisk in cocoa powder. Continue whisking until the mixture is smooth and begins to thicken, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in vanilla extract.

Garnish:

Freshly whipped cream

1 cup pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

To serve, place pears on a large platter. Serve with bowls of chocolate sauce, whipped cream and pecans.