Playmates on Safari

Beware. It takes a little patience and a lot of time to get to Sausage Tree Camp in Chifungulu, Zambia, on the continent of Africa: Chicago to New York to Johannesburg to Lusaka, Zambia. The airports and airplanes get smaller on each leg of the trip, until we reach Jeki Airstrip, where a pilot named Lucky has to buzz a stubborn zebra off the red-dirt field before he can land our Cessna. After that, there's still an hour's drive in a Land Rover--a real Land Rover; the brush guard and fog lights actually serve a purpose--to reach the camp.

What am I doing on the banks of the steamy Zambezi River, with crates of photo gear and a crew that includes world-traveled photographer Richard Fegley? I'm here to shoot the trip of a lifetime, an African safari with three of our most adventurous Playmates--Jami Ferrell, Rachel Jeán Marteen and Karin Taylor. As Managing Photography Editor, it's my responsibility to ride herd on the group. These are the days when I really love my job.

With help from some friends at Explore Inc., we have planned a three-point play in southern Africa--Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana--to get a taste of the safari experience. Our first stop is (text concluded on page 84)

Chifungulu, an idyllic spot. The sounds of Africa are everywhere--the snorting of crocodiles, the muffled yawns of not-so-distant lions, the earnest mating of hippos on the riverbank. The sounds don't go away at night, which is a bit unnerving for newly arrived city dwellers. We are warned not to leave our large oval tents, and that's fine, because they're comfortable and we get gourmet meals via room service--or is it tent service? You place your orders on vintage military crank telephones. Quaint, but these also are the devices you rely on in case of an emergency. When daylight arrives, our photo session is postponed by an ill-tempered Cape buffalo. On the other hand, there are unexpected pleasures, such as the outdoor showers. So far, so good.

"When will we get to see some elephants?" our Playmates keep asking. Jami, Karin and Rachel Jeán want more Africa, and it's my job to make sure they get their wish. They do at our next stop, Camp Amalinda, which is a hop, skip and a few bumps in a Land Rover from Bulawayo, on the southwestern border of Zimbabwe. Here I instruct Richard to capture the natural reciprocity of Africa: Playmates washing elephants, elephants washing Playmates. Near the campsite, in Matopos National Park, Jami befriends an orphaned lion cub. Lucky little guy. At night, around the campfire, after the cameras are put away, ghost stories lead to dirty jokes, which lead to the women doing stand-up. Hyenas may be an easy laugh, but our Playmates have the wild dogs howling.

Then it's upward and onward on Air Botswana to our final destination, San Camp, in the Kalahari region of Botswana. There's no jungle here, just an astonishing dry desert lake bed that, we are told, is the size of Switzerland and as old as the earth itself. At the encouragement of our guide Ralph, San Camp's director and noted zoologist, the Playmates lie low in the midday heat, imitating the practice of the famed Kalahari lions. The women wisely conserve their energy for a late-afternoon expedition into the salt basins on four-wheel desert bikes.

Another fantastic sunset brings great photo opportunities around the largest tree in Africa. Dinner, as usual, offers the finest local cuisine. Jami, Karin and Rachel Jeán have taken a liking to gazelle. I prefer zebra. Different stripes for different types.

In all, it's been two weeks, three Playmates and 15 plane rides--a four-star experience. Karin has already returned to Africa for a second helping of safari. If she. or one of the other women, needs some company, I'm ready and able.

Camping Out

So, you want to go on safari? There are hundreds of online listings for travel agencies that offer African safari tour packages, with differing degrees of comfort, adventure and cost. One of the best is Classic Safari Camps of Africa (classicsafari camps.com), which represents upscale camps throughout Africa. Our trip was set up by Explore Inc. in Steamboat Springs, Colorado (970-871-0065; [email protected]). Here is the basic information you'll need to plan a trip. Sorry, you have to provide your own Playmates.

Language: English is the official language of Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe, making these countries popular destinations.

Luggage.: You'll want to travel light, with a soft bag weighing no more than 25 pounds and a small carry-on. Because most safari travel is in small aircraft, these limits are strictly enforced.

Travel Documents: As with all international travel, a valid passport is required. Visas aren't needed for U.S. citizens entering Botswana and South Africa, but you'll need one to get into Zambia. Fortunately, you can buy it at the border for $25. Zimbabwe charges $30.

Weather and Climate: The best time to visit southern Africa is April through October. During June and July, temperatures range from 45 at night to 75 daytimes. In October and November, it gets much hotter (95 daytimes), but game viewing is at its peak in the heat. The African sun and dry air can be brutal, so bring a good pair of shades, some eyedrops, a wide-brimmed hat and sunblock.

Apparel: Lightweight cotton clothing is best for daytime safari trips, along with comfortable walking shoes. You'll need a sweater or jacket during the early morning and evening, and warm bed clothing. Neutral colors such as tan, khaki and olive are less conspicuous to animals. In southern Africa, camouflage clothing is prohibited.

Accommodations: Opt for safari camps, most of which offer the comforts of home, including freshly prepared meals, hot water, electricity, laundry services, even flushing toilets. If you must use a hair drier or electric razor--or need to recharge that video battery--be sure to take along an appliance adapter that converts to 220 volts. Activities such as horseback riding, game viewing, canoeing and guided tours are usually included in the basic cost of the travel package. Expect to spend anywhere from $200 to $400 a night per person.