Playboy's Guide to the WeU-Heeled Man
CAP-TOE BALMORAL *2
Brogued cap-toe shoe by Allen Edmonds. |
ong-wing blucher. by Alden for J. Crew.
DESERT BOOT '95
Crepe-soled suede desert boot by Clarks. |
ustomT
MPTON, process that often takes we
FROM MANHATTAN TO NORTHAMPTON,
the U.K.'s shoemaking capital, a custom pair of shoes can still be had in these disposable times. Here's how it's done. The feet are measured from heel to toe off outlines made while the customer is sitting and standing. (2) Wooden lasts in the shape of the feet are carved and chiseled, a
process that often takes we. Lasts are kept on file for future orders. (4) The customer chooses a style from thousands of patterns. Personal details can be requested. The cost of the skin determines the shoes' price. Some shops carry kangaroo, bison, lizard and even stingray. The customer selects color, i-j The lining is sewn together
with^he upsj^ (8) The insole is
attached to the last. The upper is pulled
over the last and attached to the insole.
The welt is attached to the insole and
then the sole is attached to the welt.
(9) The customer tries on shoe for
adjustments. Break in new shoes
slowly, wearing them a few hours a day until leather softens, —sieve uaroanno
Hand-stitched one-buckle Ashlll shoe by John '
PBNNY LOAFER $125
Dover penny loafer by Bass. |
SADDLE SHOE '295
Tonal saddle shoe |
by Duckle Brown for Florshelm. /
PLAIN-TOE BL
dovan shoe by
MAKE
GOOD SHOES DESERVE CARE. HERE ARE TIPS TO KEEP YOU ON YOUR TOES:
You get what you pay for. Quality shoes will outlive your designer suits. Don't wear your favorite shoes every day. Give them a day off. • Don't drag your feet. It
weathers a shoe. Buy only quality inserts. Store your finer shoes in their original boxes. Use a shoe tree. In a pinch, stuff shoes with newspapers to maintain their shape. Moisture kills shoes. Polish them with wax before you go outdoors. Dry them with a
chamois. Do not put shoes under a radiator, which will crack and shrink the leather. Fine shoes should be put on with a horn and removed with patience. Kicking them off with your other foot ruins the stitching. Baking soda will keep your shoes smelling fresh. — S.G.
