Playboy's Best Bars 2013
July / August, 2013
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Best Place to Relive the Harlem Renaissance
GINNY'S SUPPER CLUB, NEW YORK oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
As if Red Rooster Harlem weren't swinging enough, owner-chef Marcus Samuelsson (pictured) has upped the ante with the downstairs Ginny's Supper Club. It's modern, yet it identifies, as beverage director Lonn Coupel-Coward puts it, "with a time when men wore suits and bow ties just to walk to the corner store, and the ladies loved it." The drinks are dandy too: Scotch whiskey, fresh basil, ginger, Chivas and ginger beer make a modern take on the Moscow mule.
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ATTABOY, NEW YORK
• Two bartenders
from pioneering speakeasy Milk & Honey, Sam Ross and Michael Mcllroy, have taken over, changed its name to Attaboy
and loosened the joint's proverbial tie (no more house rules, no more reservations). Drinks are crafted with surgical precision and served
without stuffiness. Order a Tommy's No. 2 (which uses both tequila and mezcal) or a well-balanced, whiskey-based Penicillin.
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ESSEX, SEATTLE
• Owners Molly Wiz-enberg and husband Brandon Pettit are self-made culinar-ians. (Wizenberg writes the food blog Orangette and
with Pettit opened Delancey restaurant.) Their new bar emphasizes handmade liqueurs, tinctures, bitters and digestifs. Cheers to DIY.
Best Excuse to Share a Quad Room
THE BROKEN SHAKER, MIAMI
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A bar at a youth hostel in Miami: Must be sketchy, right? Not when the hostel is haute and its bar was created by the cocktail consultancy Bar Lab. The drinks have playful names (Bath Salt Zombie, Nobody F*#ks With Jesus) and are concocted using herbs from the on-site garden. The interior brims with old-timey touches, but the clientele prefers to swig by the swimming pool or over a game of Ping-Pong.
THE "IT" COCKTAIL
| You can thank Mad Men and the bourbon boom for the resurgence of the old fashioned, which is showing up in many guises on cocktail menus across the country. Here's how to make a new and improved version at home.
Ingredients
2 Luxardo mar
aschino cherries
2-inch strip
orange peel
'A tsp. sugar
2 dashes
orange bitters
2 oz. bourbon
Directions
% Muddle the cherries, orange peel, sugar and bitters in a low-ball glass. Pill glass with ice, add bourbon and stir. If it's too strong for your taste, tame it with a splash of soda water.
COLOR CODE
TRICK DOG,
SAN
FRANCISCO
? In a vintage warehouse in the Mission District, bartenders mix a virtual rainbow of concoctions inspired by the Pantone color wheel. You order off a fanned stack of cards designed to look like paint samples. The sage-colored Baby Turtle (Tequila Ocho reposado, Campari, grapefruit, lime, egg white, cinnamon) is a favorite, but be prepared to drink standing up—Trick Dog is always packed.
0est Season to^ive
THE ORIGINAL OKRA CHARITY SALOON, HOUSTON
• Run by restaurant-and-bar charity OKRA (Organized Kollaboration on Restaurant Affairs), this joint gives all its proceeds to an evolving list of local
organizations and social causes. Each drink buys a vote that can be cast in favor of one of four nominated charities. Drinking has never felt so virtuous.
Best Place to Get Philosophical About Potables
ME LOUNGE AT ATERA, NEW YORK
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It's reservations only at this bar below the two-Michelin-starred Atera. The chef, forager Matthew Lightner, offers willfully unusual locavore dishes and a drinks menu to match. You may not recognize a martini of gin, beet, white cardamom and a hardy shrub called rue. But you will have a mind-blowing woodsy adventure from the comfort of your leather chair.
Best Bar for Oddball Ingredients
CURE, NEW ORLEANS
Esoteric liquors, rare beers and niche wines provide the punch at this experimental bar on a funky Uptown block. Owner Neal Boden-heimer loves to push the limits while delivering
delicious drinks. He's currently into Stoupakis Homericon Mastiha, a Greek liqueur made from mastic resin. It appears in a cocktail called Magic Tree, which has become a house favorite.
THE WHEY BAR, PORTLAND
• This offshoot of the perennially thronged Argentine-inspired restaurant Ox was conceived as a spot for patrons to
have a drink while waiting for their tables. The space has since become a destination in its own right, with a
rustic-chic decor and carefully crafted cocktails such as La Yapa, made with rye, lemon juice and Fernet Branca.
Best Science Project
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• The only piece of equipment Booker and Dax seems to be missing is a flux capacitor. Liquid nitrogen chills glasses. A rotary evaporator distills ingredients into essential oils. Bartenders plunge a 1,500-degree red-hot poker into cocktails to caramelize sugars just before serving. There's a science to taking old standbys back to the future. Take the hood-famous gin and juice: Grapefruit juice is spun through a centrifuge for clarification, mixed with gin and carbonated to perfection.
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NEAT, GLENDALE, CALIFORNIA
• If ever there were a time and place to do a foam-topped, sphericalized, gently misted interpretive cocktail dance, it is not nor will it ever be during operating hours at Neat. At this streamlined
midcentury throwback bar there are no menus, just skilled bartenders who know the 250 bottles of top-shelf booze on the wall well. A sidecar of fresh ginger and lemon will balance out a deep rye. A
dash of rosemary syrup brings out the botanicals in a gin on ice. With all spirits served (take a wild guess) neat or paired with fresh juice or house-made syrups, it's easy to see what the fuss is about.
&Best Skeason to dleacf
SUGAR HOUSE, DETROIT
• We tend to keep our drinking and thinking separate. But the 21-page menu at this Corktown bar is a masterpiece, with 100-plus cocktails, punches, spirits, beers and wines. This beast is
supplemented seasonally with an additional 20 or so original drinks, such as the Knackery, a bourbon-Benedictine-peach number, and the gingery, cin-namony Forager's old fashioned.
Best Reason to Use a Phone Booth
PDT, NEW YORK oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
• Before countless pseudo-speakeasies opened across the country, there was PDT (which stands for "please don't tell"). Step inside the phone booth at Crif Dogs on St. Marks Place, pick up the receiver and ask to be let in. If there's an open seat in this civilized subterranean speakeasy-style bar, prepare to be blown away by the highest level of vintage and modern craft cocktails.
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OF THE WEST
THE VARNISH, LOS ANGELES
? Civilized patrons, con
templative barkeeps
and intimate tables and
booths make this bar
hidden behind a door at
Cole's restaurant an L.A.
gem. Order a summery
Bramble cocktail, or make
one at home (see below).
The Bramble
? Muddle five fresh black
berries in a lowball glass.
Add one and a half ounces
gin, three quarters of an
ounce fresh lemon juice
and half an ounce simple
syrup. Stir. Fill glass with
crushed ice. Pour three
quarters of an ounce black
berry liqueur over ice.
Garnish with a blackberry.
Best Reason to Book a Room in Portland
CLYDE COMMON. PORTLAND oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
The bar in Clyde Common restaurant, at the iiber-cool Ace Hotel, is refreshingly un-Portland (little flannel, no taxidermy). This is the home of the barrel-aged cocktail (a drink mellowed in an oak cask). It is also where bartender Jeffrey
Morgenthaler does the whole local arti-sanal thing without making it seem precious. The cocktail menu is smart and satisfying. So is Morgenthaler's response to requests such as "Give me something tart made with gin." Trust him.
FATHER'S OFFICE, LOS ANGELES
• L.A.'s original craft-beer mecca is still the place to beat. We prefer the newer, Culver City location (pictured)
for its spacious patio and long, sleek bar tricked out with an array of taps loaded with some of the best microbrews
in the United States. The house burger is perfect beer food and justly regarded as one of the finest in town.
Best High-Altitude Bar
JUSTICE SNOV.
ASPEN
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Situated in a former bank in the Wheeler Opera House, this bar has a charming historic feel. Drinks are often served from vintage barware collected by "lead libation liaison" Joshua-Peter Smith, who excels at inventing custom cocktails for guests. The 26-page menu has a section for "group decision" punch bowls and offers more than 70 whiskeys.
BILLY SUNDAY, CHICAGO
• Named after temperance preacher William Ashley "Billy" Sunday, this Logan Square bar is like a church devoted to the heavenly realities of post-Prohibition America: Rare ingredients including wormwood and ambergris make their way into exquisitely balanced cocktails. And the kitchen turns out bar food of the highest order: pickled sardines, steak tartare and rabbit pot pie.
&Best (Qne-^wo
PARLOUR, MINNEAPOLIS
• Drinking on an empty stomach is never advisable. Which is why we welcome the arrival of the upstairs-downstairs restaurant-bar duo Borough and Parlour. The strategy is this: Dine early at Borough, ordering
one drink from the cocktail cart while eating such hearty fare as lamb loin with chickpeas and fava beans. Finish the night at Parlour with a cocktail—try an old fashioned made with both Jim Beam rye and Old Grand-Dad 114.
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