In the world of fashion faux pas, wearing white after labor ranks high, up there with “socks with sandals” and “anything by Ed Hardy.” But where did this ubiquitous rule start? It all started in the time of unprecedented wealth, labor upheaval, and mustachioed presidents known as “The Guilded Age.”
Like the European royalty that they styled themselves upon, American monied elites like the Vanderbilts and the Astors lived their lives through conspicuous consumption, showing off their class and capital through ritual and fashion. Wearing white after Labor Day was one of many, often superfluous rules, that some blue blood conceived, which was then adhered to strictly by anyone trying to show how “in the club” they are.
It’s a tale as old as written history, really. Old money always frowns upon the new, and that’s where rules about appropriate fashion on appropriate holidays stems from. However, unlike knowing the appropriate fork to use for your salad, there’s actually some logic to the rule.
White, as a color, has a cooling effect. In a time before tank tops and booty shorts, wearing a white suit would be potentially cozier to wear during the summer when you’re vacationing in Newport or Wilmington. After a fashion, white became the color most associated with leisure, and more importantly, with those who could actually afford leisure. Nowadays, fashion is a little less rigorous, even among one percenters.
There are some practical reasons for the folks in the Guilded Age to eschew white after labor day. White clothing usually meant it was made from linen. Lighter clothes are perfect for warmer summer months. Labor Day is sort summer’s last gasp, and a good time to put away the lighter colors and swap in the darker ones.
Let’s get some wool up in this piece, it’s about to get chilly.