Time Was, way back in pre-synthetic days, a snappily garbed, world-traveling Yank wouldn't think of stepping down a cruise-ship's gangplank in a tropical port without his trusty gray-beige silk pongee suit on his back. (Or, for that matter, out into the heat of the city in summer.) This fabric was the key to his warm-weather wardrobe for some nifty reasons: it was a strong, lightweight, crease-resistant, cool cloth that made up handily into an easy-fitting, good-looking suit -- unlike its alternative, seersucker, which quickly got as crinkly as PJs. After too many years of neglect, pongee is once again filling an important spot among the traveling elite who demand the elegance and distinction this natural fiber affords. We predict that pongee (originally called pen chi by the Chinese, meaning home loom) will enjoy a return engagement in some of the best-looking resort and cruise clothes to hoist a gin and bitters anywhere the sun shines in January. The new generation of pongee shown here is a heftier-weight silk than it once was. Further, it is now (as never before) available in prints that turn up in a variety of tasteful sports coats. Note the way the natural neutral color of the pongee tames down the tie-type prints to give a coat the quiet elegance that is the hallmark of really right attire.
The besuited camerateer at far left is sporting natural-shade pongee by Gordon of Philadelphia; about $65, in a trim, conservative cut. Topping his cool comfort is a Dobb's skimmer; about $7. The gentleman in the center likes his tie-print pongee jacket by Cricketeer; about $45. This coat is at least one inch shorter than standard models and the shoulders, of course, are strictly his own. His trousers are just the right traveling companion the shorter jacket needs: reed-narrow, pleatless, no back strap, in a 5 1/2-ounce wool-dacron worsted by Majer; about $22.50. Guy on the right goes for his natural pongee in an avant-garde cut: his sports jacket is a shaped Edwardian model by Cricketeer; about $50, that's a good three inches shorter than other jobs, boasts cuffs on the sleeves, no breast pocket. Completing the picture are his olive-green trousers by Rudd, in wool tropical; about $22.50.
