Playboy's Fall & Winter Fashion Forecast

the definitive statement on the coming trends in men's wear and accessories

The two major stylistic revolutions of the past decade-and-a-half (Ivy and Continental), each having made important contributions to a sound fashion profile, appear ready for a season of harmonious coexistence. There will be significant innovations in every aspect of men's clothing, of course, but this year there is no overriding trend transforming well-planned wardrobes into apparel museums. Accordingly, if the soul of a man is his clothes, as Shakespeare once wrote, then hanging in your closest and stashed away in your dresser.

You'll never have a better chance to augment your array of business apparel, because the vested three-button suit, reflecting regulation Ivy tailoring and various Continental modifications, remains the innovations are minor: slightly wider lapels and a moderately (text continued on page 116) slimmer outline (showing up in trimmer jacket waists and narrower trousers). Thus, you can cast your eye in the direction of the newer one- and two-button suits (both featuring squarer shoulders), which are excellent for those occasions when an additional touch of urbanity is desired. Suit colors will be livelier (lighter blues, grays and browns are in; dark olive is out), but last year's bold patterns are expected to be more subdued. We're pleased to note a material shift toward soft fabrics such as tweed, Shetland and cheviot: suits cut from these cloths pay dividends in versatility since, by varying your accessories, you can wear them both for casual country weekends and your normal city workday. A noticeable revival of herringbone is a-borning, in patterns ranging from a tissue shadow to a wide, spirited accent, and in colors varying from light gray or muted tan to a firm black and white or virile blue and black. If you don't have at least one herringbone, now's the time to buy: it will be an enduring addition to your wardrobe. Regulation formal wear this season will be the naturalshoulder dinner jacket in hopsacking with a satin shawl collar, but a striking departure from fashion orthodoxy is a new straight-peaked-lapel dinner jacket that has the same silhouette as a business suit.

The sports-jacket look will be rough in fabric, light in color and bold in pattern. Except for the sustained revival of Norfolk jackets and the appearance of suede as elbow patches and pocket trim, there will be few styling departures this season: natural shoulders and plain backs still prevail. The big news is in fabrics, where smooth, hand-finished materials, like worsteds, are hibernating for the season, with rugged, beefy materials, like coarse-grained tweeds (especially herringbone) and bulky Shetlands, taking their place. Unabashedly large patterns will enliven sports jackets in almost every combination from glen plaids to shepherd checks, but even more notable will be the unusual combination of black and white in such conventional patterns as houndstooth, herringbone, club checks and strips. Along fraternity row and at penthouse cocktail parties, the navy-blue blazer will be challenged by upsurging camel tones; rich, burgundy shades also promise to be welcome trail blazers. Sleeveless sweaters will show up increasingly this year in combination with sports jackets and slacks.

We're pleased to report that the trend in slacks toward trim, functional tailoring will remain in force. Traditional styling will set the tone even in such venturesome arrivals as trousers utilizing stretch materials (double-knit wools and blends) and newly interpreted beltless models. Last year's dark-hued pants will still be around, as will the conventional materials -- whipcords, twist weaves, corduroy and basket weaves of the Harristweed type -- but you might want to add a couple of pairs in the new clay tones (pewter, tan, putty) or in the synthetic blends, which will be interested in the introduction of suede trim both on pockets and belt loops, while traditionalists will welcome the revival of vertical on-seam pocets. One more comeback that we view with favor is the return of glen plaid as a trouser fabric: slacks made of this material co-ordinate perfectly with solidcolor blazers.

The outer look of outwear will remain remarkably stable this season, with last year's long, woolen overcoats, both in single- and double-breasted models, still prevailing, and herringbone patterns continuing to rise in favor. The inside word, be bright and exciting, with audacious combinations in plaids, stripes and vivid geometric patterns. Bold shades of red will figure prominently in almost all of them. In decorous contrast to this burst of color, Continentally inspired linings that feature both trim and inner waistbands of leather will be available for more conservatively inclined men.

The sports-outer wear scene has rarely been as active as this year. A renascence of rugged corduroy is in the offing, and it will show up both in arena-oriented stadium coats and ski-influenced three quarter-length jackets. The knee-length garments will feature detachable hoods, toggles, big patch pockets, cleanly defined yokes, and linings in bold plaids, stripes or pile; the thigh-high jackets' detailing will include removable fur collars (simulated) and a choice of buttons or zippers. Second only to the corduroy comeback will be a fashionable revival of suede, which is expected to appear in all types of casual outwear, frequently in combination with other fabrics (corduroys, wools, double knits); but the most noteworthy application of suede, as we see it, will be on functional waistlength jackets with pile linings. While the average sportsman will have the usual abundance of versatile convertibles to choose from (particularly cottons and blends with removable pile collars and zip-out hood linings), the active outdoorman will be especially pleased with the newly interpreted finger-tip-length ski parkas: snug tailoring and a deemphasis on outside quilting quality these jackets both for the ski-slope and hot-toddy scenes. This season, hooded parkas generally reverse from rich, solid shades to colorful geometric patterns.

We regard with favor a revival of the traditional topcoat, which is reappearing as a staple for urban workaday and weekend wear. While the choice of fabrics and patterns will be wide, neat herringbone designs will predominate, with unadorned fly fronts and slightly padded shoulders squaring off the topcoat's outline. Most of these garments will be seen in subdued patterns and dark colors, but fashion pace-setters will be interested in modish camel's-hair interpretations, like the classic polo coat and British warmer.

In a complete swing of the fashion pendulum, last year's boldly styled rainwear will give way to conservative colors and classic tailoring. Such Continental touches as yokes and button-off back belts will be replaced by the more traditional appearance of regulation raglan sleeves and trim-looking split shoulders. Both the perennial singlebreasted and recently revived double breasted trench coats will be knee length, with styling on the latter varying from the smart ulster collar outline to a snappy military profile. The usual zip-out and pile linings in wetwear will be unusually colorful this year: bright solids, vivid split shades and lively wool plaids (with camel the ground color) will prevail. The contrastingly restrained outer look of rainwear will be dominated by orthodox gabardine, in natural and sand colors, with the new, muted London tan (plain and iridescent) following closely, and last year's black, though still strong, holding up the rear.

The most newsworthy yarn being spun on this year's sweater scene is that brushed surfaces and bulky knits are surging back strongly. The fleecy look will be seen in patterns and solids, in coat models and pullovers, while the bulky style -- notably mohair -- will be keeping active men in stitches like cable and popcorn. Look for a compatible marriage of both brushed and bulky in lightweight interpretations that are perfect for early fall outings. A versatile choice for both fall and winter is the ski-oriented turtleneck, which is showing up in two versions: traditional and zippered. This year, the turtleneck will be worn during early-in-the-season days under an open-neck sport shirt and, when the temperature drops in earnest, underneath a parka for extra warmth. (Incidentally, one of the brightest pearls in the whole skein of knits is the new two-in-one pullover that combines a V-neck with a set-in turtleneck.) Another enduring influence of the schuss-and-slalom resorts is the ubiquitous ski pattern which, this year, will appear not only in the accepted multicolor delineations, but in new double-hued combinations as well. The closely related Tyrolean will also be popular in colorful zip-front versions, but, if subdued shades are more to your liking, there (concluded on page 182)Fashion Forecast(continued from page 116) will be a large variety of cardigans (still the leading sweater style) in camel's hair. Suede elbow patches and pocket trim will appear prominently on many coat-style sweaters.

We have observed with pleasure the increasing acceptability of knitted outerwear in places and times formerly reserved for more formal apparel. Accordingly, for such occasions as suburban patio parties or impromptu city dates, when you'll want to feel dressed up even though your garb is casual, you'll be interested in one of the more sumptuous styles. Cashmere, always in good taste, fits this category perfectly, along with the handsome V-neck alpacas and intricate in tricate (an ornamental style adapted from medieval-Italian woodwork patterns).

If your assortment of dress shirts is dominated by buttondown and tab collars, in that order, you're facing in the right fashion direction for this coming fall and winter. What you'll want to add is a collection of the newly revived stripes -- especially red -- which will be seen in a wide variety of designs, from bold, heavily dyed patterns to thin, subtle hairlines. Blue stripes will continue to be a staple, and black-on-white and black in combination with red promise to be popular. Because of the revival of red this year, pink may move, once again, into male dressing rooms.

The sport shirt is making a singular double-entry as it merges tastefully and functionally with the dress shirt. The casual number will resemble its more formal counterpart in every detail but collar size (it has none), as it utilizes the same oxford, chambray, madras and twill fabrics, features exact sleeve lengths, and adopts the tapered back. (A note on tapering: Too frequently, men try to achieve the tailored-shirt outline by buying a garment a size too small. While this may provide the desired waist measurement, it also pulls the shoulder seams out of place. Proper tapering is accomplished by taking in the waist only. Depending upon your size, a suppression of five to six inches should turn the trick.) Button down collars, which are available in traditional styles; as "highboys" (with the neckband raised to two inches); and in the short spread, are still the preferred sport-shirt style: leave the tabs for your teenage nephew. If a vacuum will be left in casual wear by the ascension of the sport shirt to more formal spheres of influence, it will readily be filled by the wide variety of cotton knits available. Appearing in every color of the spectrum, these sportive garments, in turtle neck and button-front models, will be worn under most types of light outerwear. The collars on both cardigans and pullovers this year tend toward greater length and less spread.

The preponderance of striped shirts this season leaves two basic choices in neckwear. For the fashion-wise, the alternative will be the bold stripe-on-stripe approach, with rep and twill stripes predominant; more conservative dressers will look for simpler designs with a lot of ground color showing. Of the latter type, we lean toward paisleys and madders, with the caution that the basic color be in harmony with the jacket. Knit ties, of course, in black, deep maroon and burgundy, will also work well with striped shirts. Tie widths this year vary between 2 1/4 and 2 3/8 inches.

Belts, on the other hand, will be 11/4 inches wide. Plain and exotic-grain leathers with simple buckles will be the standard both for business and most casual wear. The fashionable exception is glove-tanned harness leather, perfect for the most formal occasions; if you like large touches of color in your leisure duds, look for reds in solid, madras, plaid and striped fabrics.

For this year's urban scene, handsomely on hand are gloves in capeskin and prominently stitched Italian soft leather. The casual and country bit is best handled with deerskin -- because many of these gloves feature removable wool liners, they're remarkably versatile. If you detect your playmate puzzling over a year-end gift for you, suggest the practical driving gloves that feature gripper ribs to hold the wheel -- or better still, the popular stretch models: she won't even have to remember your size.

The top of the male profile will be brimming with a large variety of sportive and colorful fur, leather, laminated and knit caps. Bridging the gap between formal and casual headgear will be the popular pinch-front and telescope models, while fashion pace-setters will be donning lids of silk and suede. The fundamental business hat is still felt and it will be seen in a large variety of colors, ranging from clear grays and browns to blues and soft greens (dark olive is in retirement for the season). The trend toward brimless hats is now in reverse: borders, which will be raw-edged, are moving out again.

This year's footnote to the basic fashion text will be a study in brown; whereas black shoes only recently made up 75 percent of the male shoe rack, this season it is expected to be an equitable 50--50. The standard repertoire of regulation boot styles, loafers, laced plain-toes and modified wing tips will still be around, but trend-setters will be stepping out in stylish tassel loafers. Socks continue to appear in dark solid colors, both in ribbed numbers of Orlon-nylon and in crews (with striped tops showing up on the latter).

Thus, tradition enhanced by variety promises to be the outlook for men's fashions this fall and winter. The choices, in brief, are understand, but eloquent, for guys with the gift of garb.