Keeping Your Cool with Casseroles

Of all feasts, a casserole is the most movable. You can tote it from freezer to oven or from city high-rise to country retreat. For travel purposes, you can keep a casserole either hot or cold by simply blanketing it with generous layers of The New York Times or by coddling it in an insulated bag. When three or four yachts are tied together at eventide, one way to celebrate sundown is with a boarding party: Come aboard with a cocktail pitcher in one hand and a casserole in the other. Chronic icebox raiders who can't wait for the witching hour to sample sliced shell steak, roast turkey or goose with stuffing always keep a well-chilled casserole handy. As time goes by, cold roast meat loses its flavor, but any man with time on his hands knows that a tow-day-old casserole has twice the flavor of a one-day-old beginner. Most important of all, a large casserole enables the bachelor chef--whether he's on land or at sea--to feed a starving crew without running into any last-minute logistical hang-ups. The built-in features of a casserole give you freedom to imbibe along with all other bibbers at the appointed hour.

When you case a casserole at a party table, you're not likely to discover dainty breasts of guinea hen resting in a pool of madeira sauce with star-shaped slices of truffle. But when your serving spoon breaks through a crust of rich buttered crumbs and cheese, and in the mélange of soft kidney beans you dig up plump slices of garlic sausage and smoked pork tenderloin, suddenly your palate's alive. All's right with the world.

Casseroles have a way of taking their own sweet time. And their lazy pace only goes to prove that some of the easient things in the kitchen are the slowest. The great French culinary classic tripes à la mode de Caen normally takes from 10 to 20 hours to cook. Since the dish is baked at the lowest possible oven temperature, there's no need for stirring, skimming or watching. Many Frenchmen prepare it after the evening meal and then simply go to bed while the tripe, beef shank, vegetables and hard cider or white wine simmer overnight.

Certainly the first qualification of a casserole specialist is his ability to improvise. If a recipe calls for imported French green kidney beans called flageolets, and these aren't to be found at your neighborhood grocery, don't hesitate to use American counterparts, including lima beans or marrowfat beans. Imported flageolets in can or jars may be used, but these are weak pinch hitters. If the recipe say veal, and you dream up chicken or pork, you may actually ad-lib a better casserole than the original concoction itself.

Many casserole chefs regularly double the quantities of their favorite casserole recipes and stash half in the freezer. It's easy to freeze anything from a meatball to a bison, but to unfreeze it and cook it within a reasonable time often is a problem. If a pasta casserole, for example, has been built up layer by layer to a frozen fest five inches deep, it may take two days in the refrigerator for it to thaw out sufficiently, so that when placed in the oven, it will emerge hot inside and not burned to a charcoaled crisp outside. A simple standing order for frozen casseroles is this: Frozen cooked foods should never be more than 1 1/2 inches deep. Such casseroles moved to a hot oven directly from the freezer, cooked uncovered, will be ready for the most ravenous appetite in an hour's time.

When it comes to wines with casseroles, the best are those in the morning of their life. Wines that should be drunk young (months rather than years old, such as the rosés and beaujolais) are the kinds of libations one expects at a casserole buffet; and the 1966 beaujolais, with their brisk pordigal fruit flavor, are now on American wine shelves. A word to the wine wise: The label beaujolais, meaning the fruity red wines from a district in southern Burgundy, has been exploited by all kinds of four-flushing exporters. In one year, allegedly five times as much beaujolais was shipped from France as had been pressed that year. Always buy the label of a well-known shipper. Those beaujolais marked "Supérieur" are worth their slightly superior price. Beaujolais and all other wines in the bloom of their youth should be poured chilled, but not numbingly cold

For stretching or chopping down recipes, your casserole gear should include large, medium and small-sized utensils as well as casseroles of different widths and heights, so they can be filled just to the brim for golden browning. Ever since primitive chefs wrapped wet clay around their game, earthenware casseroles have been the pick of the tribe for casseroleers. The old adages about rubbing earthenware with garlic before its first use, boiling it in salt water or baking-soda water are kitchen demonology at its worst. All modern terra-cotta ware from France, glazed inside, dull outside, is pretreated for the oven. Of course, it's breakable and chippable, and it can't be popped directly from freezer to oven. Porcelainized ironware is the toughest of imported casseroles. It can be whisked from temperatures below zero to the fiercest oven. American Corning Ware, now is simple white, is also amazingly hardy. Sudden changes in temperature won't bother it; it can be exposed to a top flame without asbestos pads and seldom acquire that sudden beat-up-with-age look that overtakes so may porcelainized vessels.

Casseroles haven't always been just a staple stand-by for busy bachelors. Talleyrand, the great French diplomat, was noted for hosting the most luxurious table of his time. A deft intriguer, he was also a lover of, among other thing, casseroles. Furthermore, he never forgot the role of food in his political ploys. When he left for negotiations in Vienna, he confessed to Louis XVIII, "Sire, I have more need of casseroles (continued on page 176)Casseroles(continued from page 98) than written instruction." We now offer both. Each of the following recipes serves six.

[recipe_title]Rice Casserole Marinara[/recipe_title]

[recipe]2 10 1/2-oz. cans minced clams[/recipe]

[recipe]2 cups converted rice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, cayenne[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup roasted red peppers, small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. cooked, peeled, deveined shrimps[/recipe]

[recipe]2 13-oz. cans vichyssoise[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can water chestnuts, drained, finely minced[/recipe]

[recipe]Juice of 1/2 lemon[/recipe]

This is a top-flame casserole, not to be baked in the oven. Drain clams, reserving liquid. Add to clam liquid enough water to make 1 quart. Bring to a boil. Add rice, olive oil, oregano and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir well. Reduce flame as low as possible and cook rice, covered, without further stirring until tender--about 18 to 20 minutes. In mixing bowl, combine rice, clams, red peppers, shrimps, vichyssoise, water chestnuts and lemon juice. Stir well. Add salt and pepper to taste and a dash or two of cayenne. Turn into casserole. Heat over low flame to serving temperature. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Casserole may be heated without any stirring by placing it in baking pan with 1 in. hot water. Place the baking pan over top flame, thus creating a home-style steam table.

[recipe_title]Macaroni-Cheese Fondue With Ham[/recipe_title]

[recipe]8 ozs. macaroni, elbow or ditali[/recipe]

[recipe]4 slices bacon, very small dice[/recipe]

[recipe]2 14-ozs. pkgs. Swiss-cheese fondue[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 lb. sliced boiled ham, 1/2-in. squares[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup heavy cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size onion[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, nutmeg[/recipe]

[recipe]Grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Pan fry bacon until crisp. Drain and set aside. Boil macaroni in salted water until tender. Heat cheese fondue, following directions on package. Drain macaroni well. In mixing bowl, combine macaroni, bacon, ham, fondue and cream. Grate onion into bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a few light sprays of nutmeg. Turn in to casserole and sprinkle with parmesan cheese. Bake in oven preheated at 370° 20 minutes or until cheese is brown.

[recipe_title]Chicken Terrapin[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 whole breasts of chicken (6 halves)[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion[/recipe]

[recipe]1 piece celery[/recipe]

[recipe]4 springs parsley[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]Instant chicken bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]2 doz. large-size oysters[/recipe]

[recipe]2 4-oz. cans button mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup light cream[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup instant blending flour[/recipe]

[recipe]1/3 cup butter[/recipe]

[recipe]3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2-in. cubes[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons oloroso sherry[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill[/recipe]

Boil chicken, onion, celery and parsley in lightly salted water until chicken is tender--30 to 40 minutes. Remove bone and skin from chicken and cut chicken into large dice. Drain oysters, discarding liquid. Remove eyes (small round, hard part) cut oyster in half. Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. To mushroom liquid, add enough chicken broth to make 2 cups. Add to blender along with cream and flour. Spin blender about 15 seconds. Pour into flameproof casserole and heat, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Add butter, chicken, oysters and mushrooms. Simmer, stirring frequently, 5 to 10 minutes. Add eggs sherry and dill. Season to taste.

[recipe_title]Flageolet, Pork And Sausage Casserole[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 lb. dried flageolets or other dried beans[/recipe]

[recipe]1 Spanish onion, minced fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1 small bay leaf[recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon dried basil[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 teaspoon ground fennel seed[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant chicken bouillon[/recipe]

[recipe]1 smoked pork butt, 1 1/2 lbs.[/recipe]

[recipe]1 lb, kielbasa (Polish smoked garlic sausage)[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 cup butter at room temperature[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup flour[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]1 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

[recipe]2 teaspoons finely minced parsley[/recipe]

Wash and drain flageolets. Cover with cold water in Dutch oven or flameproof casserole. Soak overnight. Beans will absorb considerable water. Add water to cover beans 1 in. beyond top. Add onion, bay leaf, basil, fennel, chicken bouillon and pork butt. Bring to boil; skim; reduce flame and simmer 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add kielbasa. continue to cook untill beans, pork butt and kielbasa are tender--about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf. Remove pork butt and kielbasa. Cut kielbasa into 1/4-in. slices, pork butt into 1/8-in. slices. Return meat to casserole. If necessary, add water to just cover beans, Bring to a boil. Mix 1/4 cup butter and flour to smooth paste. Add to casserole and stir well. simmer 5 minutes over low flame. Stir frequently to avoid scorching. Remove from fire and season with salt and pepper. Cool, if casserole is to be served at a later time. Before serving, combine remaining 1/4 cup butter, bread crumbs, parmesan cheese and parsley, blending well. Spread on top of beans. Bake in oven preheated at 370° until crumbs are brown--about 20 minutes.

[recipe_title]Lamb Goulash With Noodles[/recipe_title]

[recipe]3 lbs. boned shoulder of lamb, cut for stew[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoon salad oil[/recipe]

[recipe]1 large onion, mined[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size green pepper, minced[/recipe]

[recipe]medium-size cloves garlic, minced extremely fine[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup four[/recipe]

[recipe]1 tablespoon paprika[/recipe]

[recipe]5 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]4 packets instant bouillon powder[/recipe]

[recipe]8-oz. can tomato sauce[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar[/recipe]

[recipe]salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate[/recipe]

[recipe]4 ozs. wide egg noodles[/recipe]

[recipe]14-oz. tin imported tiny carrots[/recipe]

[recipe]10-oz. pkg. frozen small peas[/recipe]

In large flameproof casserole, sauté lamb in oil until it loses red color. Add onion, green pepper and garlic and mix well. Cover with tight lid and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in flour and paprika and mix well. Add water, bouillon powder, tomato sauce and vinegar, mixing well. Continue cooking over lowest possible flame until lamb is tender--about 1 1/2 hours longer. Season to taste with salt, pepper and monosodium glutamate. Break noodles by hand into pieces about 1 in. long. In another pot, cook noodles in boiling salted water until tender. Drain noodles well and mix with lamb. Drain carrots, add to casserole and heat to serving temperature. In another pot, cook peas just before serving, following directions on package. Sprinkle over goulash. (Goulash may be cooked in regular stewpot and transferred to casserole for seriving, if desired.)

[recipe_title]Crab Meat Polenta[/recipe_title]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups yellow corn meal[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 teaspoons salt[/recipe]

[recipe]4 1/2 cups water[/recipe]

[recipe]2 medium-size onions[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms[/recipe]

[recipe]2 pieces celery[/recipe]

[recipe]1 medium-size green pepper[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons olive oil[/recipe]

[recipe]2 tablespoons butter[/recipe]

[recipe]1-lb. can tomatoes[/recipe]

[recipe]1/2 teaspoon oregano[/recipe]

[recipe]1 1/2 lbs. fresh crab lump or equivalent in cans[/recipe]

[recipe]1/4 cup bread crumbs[/recipe]

[recipe]Salt, pepper, celery salt[/recipe]

[recipe]3 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese[/recipe]

Mix corn meal with 1 1/2 cups water and salt. In heavy saucepan, bring 4 1/2 cups water to rapid boil. Add corn-meal mixture and cook, stirring frequently, over very low flame, 15 minutes. Turn into greased 3-quart casserole. Chill 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Cut onions, mushrooms, celery and green pepper into thinnest possible strips, about 1 in. long. Sauté in olive oil and butter, without browning, until vegetables are tender. Drain tomatoes, reserving juice. Cut tomatoes julienne and add, with tomato juice, oregano and crab lump, to vegetables. Simmer 5 minutes. Add bread crumbs using more if necessary to absorb excess tomato liquid. Crab-meat mixture should be of thick sauce consistency. Season with salt, pepper and celery salt to taste. Turn out corn-meal mixture or polenta from casserole. Cut in half horizontally. Place one layer of polenta, spread with 1/2 crab-meat mixture, in casserole. Add second layer of polenta. Top with remaining crab-meat mixture. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake in moderate oven, 350°, 25 to 30 minutes or until heated through.

Whether served up piping hot or stashed away for future reference, the six preceding casserole dishes await the pleasure of your company.